What Engine for 500BHP
Discussion
pdd144c said:
eliot said:
[quote=chuntington101]
I'm not conviced at-all that a highly boosted 4 banger is the way to go. Ive followed (well nearly crashed into the back off) an FQ340 whilst he waited for his turbo to spool up after a junction.
I'm not conviced at-all that a highly boosted 4 banger is the way to go. Ive followed (well nearly crashed into the back off) an FQ340 whilst he waited for his turbo to spool up after a junction.
Rubbish. Any 4 cyclinder I've turbo'd has not had this problem, if you use the right sized turbo and its mapped correctly it will be fine.
i think what eliot was trying to say was that a 2.0ltr motor pushing out 500+bhp isn't going to have a turbo thats great for lag! even if you go for a tubular equal length manifold onto a ball bearing cored turbo. then even if you run a Garrett GT30r then your not going to have full boost at the same rpm as the stock setup will!
as i have said, there are ways to reduce lag/spool times but thats more money.
if you do as you have said and match the turbo to the size, power requierments and rpm band you want then yes it should not be a problem. but if you dont do the above correctly, as often people dont, then you start to get lag.
thanks Chris.
pdd144c said:
Rubbish. Any 4 cyclinder I've turbo'd has not had this problem, if you use the right sized turbo and its mapped correctly it will be fine.
Well that's your opinion. I would base any solution on a reasonable sized basic engine - probably a V6 - then force induct it. 500BHP on a ~2 Litre engine is getting extreeme and expensive- why bother? - start with a 3L or bigger engine and run less boost.
All you are doing with boost, is making the engine look bigger - a 2L on 3 bar boost is a 6L engine. Whereas my 5.7 chevy on .5 bar boost is a 8.5L engine (lets not argue over heat and adiabatic efficiency - i understand that very well thank you).
I think a nice boost to run is about 1 to 1.5 bar - find an engine that will deliver your goals with manageable boost levels.
eliot said:
pdd144c said:
Rubbish. Any 4 cyclinder I've turbo'd has not had this problem, if you use the right sized turbo and its mapped correctly it will be fine.
Well that's your opinion. I would base any solution on a reasonable sized basic engine - probably a V6 - then force induct it. 500BHP on a ~2 Litre engine is getting extreeme and expensive- why bother? - start with a 3L or bigger engine and run less boost.
All you are doing with boost, is making the engine look bigger - a 2L on 3 bar boost is a 6L engine. Whereas my 5.7 chevy on .5 bar boost is a 8.5L engine (lets not argue over heat and adiabatic efficiency - i understand that very well thank you).
I think a nice boost to run is about 1 to 1.5 bar - find an engine that will deliver your goals with manageable boost levels.
True it would be expensive... Perhaps I'm being narrow minded!
nice one eliot!! never thought about the FWD version of the LS1! did they ever do a manual version? and if your still in search of 500bhp, then you could just put in the crank from a 5.7 LS1 to get 5.7, or a 4 inch stroke crank to get 6.3ltr. then put a nice magnacharger on top for over 500 very torquey BHP
hmmmmm wonder if one would fit in a elise! lol
thansk Chris.
hmmmmm wonder if one would fit in a elise! lol
thansk Chris.
Being American - they all seem to be auto's. Now an auto is less desirable in a performance car, but don’t discount an auto completely, in OEM form they are designed to be smooth and slushy with torque management to ease the shifts and I can understand why people think they are rubbish.
But modern electronic auto’s can be remapped just like an engine. You can get aftermarket controllers that let you do whatever you like to them, including adding paddles to punch up and down the gears and when to lock the torque converter up. I have downloaded efilive and even the GM ecu allows a fair amount of control over the shift points and pressures.
But modern electronic auto’s can be remapped just like an engine. You can get aftermarket controllers that let you do whatever you like to them, including adding paddles to punch up and down the gears and when to lock the torque converter up. I have downloaded efilive and even the GM ecu allows a fair amount of control over the shift points and pressures.
eliot said:
Is it me, or does the exhaust from the rear bank join the front back at the left side? if so.... "place big turbo here"
HAHA great idea mate!
and yes i think it does. probably due to bulkhead restriction they run them under the engine. or is that the back side??? lol
are all the bits on these interchangerable with the RWD LS1? like alternators and waterpumps etc? just thinking you could stick a nice like rotec blower on there then to makesome real power
www.w2wpowertrain.com/pc-81-79-gm-truck-base-system.aspx
thanks Chris.
A few people meantioned the Lexus V8 (1UZ-FE) there, which appears to be a bit big, size wize, for your needs. Why not try its smaller 3L v6 cousin - either the iron blocked 3vZ-FE, or alloy block 1VZ-FE.
The iron block would be the one to go for (for strenghth / integrity reasons and dont think its much heavier then the alloy block), and bolts up to the MR2 turbo (or NA version for that matter) gearbox, giving a transverse configuration. With a suitable clutch, these gearboxes should handle the power / torque (for a time at least). These are quad-cam, 24v units, which despite 'only 200hp' in standard form, have a very strong bottom end; as I said the V6 is basically a chopped down version fo the V8, so were talking forged internals as standard. Lower the compression ratio and build a twin turbo set up and you shouldnt be far from your 500hp target....
Price wise, you could pretty easily pick an engine and box for aorund 500 - 800(or just buy an old Camry) and pump the rest into perfecting your turbo setup. Quite a few MR2 enthusiasts are turning to the V6 now, with some supercharging and other going for it with turbo setups.
Check out www.twobrutal.com and www.mr2oc.com (they have a V6 section)
Cheers, Ross
Take one 1uzfe v8 32v lexus engine(cheap in the UK), dump a M90 compressor (cheap on ebay) on it fit en decent exhaust and a decent ECU (Omex, DTA, emerald whatever) and you'll have plenty space to take it to and well over 500bhp.
funny thing is that the 3sgte flywheel fits (with minor modification) and so does it's gearbox, they're plenty strong in a lightweight car like a startos replica.
the engines have been taken to 921hp in an ultima allready with twin turbo's with only new rods and pistons, and well over that in some dragrace engines which also featured reprofiled cams and ported heads.
If you want to do some measuring look at these pictures
the weight of the engine in the picture was 121kg
grtz Thomas
funny thing is that the 3sgte flywheel fits (with minor modification) and so does it's gearbox, they're plenty strong in a lightweight car like a startos replica.
the engines have been taken to 921hp in an ultima allready with twin turbo's with only new rods and pistons, and well over that in some dragrace engines which also featured reprofiled cams and ported heads.
If you want to do some measuring look at these pictures
the weight of the engine in the picture was 121kg
grtz Thomas
Lexus V8 is a good possibility, will need to check the sizes exactly, if not the V6 is an option. Especially as the MR2 Gearbox will bolt straight on.
We have had lots of good ideas here, The lexus engine with a blower or the alfa v6 with a blower are two good ideas, which should do the job well.
Thanks
Neil
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