Starting up an engine that's been left idle

[Fatboy]

The mini I'm restoring is just about ready to have the fuel tank put back in, but as the engine hasn't run for a few months, what should I do before I start it up? I don't want to do any more damage to the engine than I've already done by leaving it idle...

[deltaf]

Change the oil and filter. If you can prime the pump without cranking the engine over, so much the better.
I think thats about all you should need to do, unless...anyone??

[mrsd]

When you have changed the oil crank over the engine on the starter with the ht disconnected so you know you've got oil everywhere before the engine runs. If the tank's not new run the car for a few 100 miles then change the fuel filter, you'll be amazed how much grot will have been stirred up by removing it. Thoroughly check all the fuel line connections before you start up and have someone standing by with a fire extinguisher (better safe than sorry...)

[Fatboy]

Cheers for that

Is it going to create any more problems if I just let it idle for a bit before I turn it off? (It's not insured and I've nowhere to run it about)

The Mini's got a plumbed in fire extinguisher as well mrsd - the days of working on the fuel system with a lit fag in my mouth are long gone (dealing with sodium/potassium fires makes you a bit blase around mere solvents ). Just got to get a new fuel filter, oil filter and some nice Torco oil



>> Edited by Fatboy on Friday 4th April 20:34

[deltaf]

It shouldnt create any problems, but only if the engine hasnt been rebuilt.
In the event that it has, with a new cam, tappets etc, you must run it at 2500rpm or there abouts for around 20 minutes at startup. But that only applies if the cam and tappets have been changed.
Reason being, that at idle, the loads on the nose of the cam are at their highest at slower speeds, in effect it shears the oil film and tears microscopic particles of steel from the cam and tappets...not good.
Otherwise, you shouldnt have any problems with it at all as far as i can see.
Just make sure your radiators full!!!lolol

[Fatboy]

Cheers mate

Now just got to find a local supplier of Torco oil????
Consult the mighty Google

[kevo]

To Run a camshaft in...Assuming its new....start engine-Go to..2-2500rpm for the first minute,
Then-3000 rpm for another minute..
then 1500 rpm for another minute..
After which the cam will be ran in....
Starting the engine after long periods of rest....
remove the king/coil lead and place to earth,Turn over the engine untill oil light/Gauge shows pressure,And procede on the above....Make shure enough oil and water is present before starting(obviously).

after running camshaft in for the 3 mins..Leave running ..Check for coolant/oil leakage..Keep engine fluxuating between 1500 & 2500 rpm to ensure enough oil splash to pistons and bores..Take up to hot/Normal running temp..keeping a eye on the oil/water for leakage....
Never run the engine for only short periods,This accumulates droplets of water(a by product of combustion) To form in the engine...Hope this helps.

[Alan420]

deltaf said:
Reason being, that at idle, the loads on the nose of the cam are at their highest at slower speeds, in effect it shears the oil film and tears microscopic particles of steel from the cam and tappets...not good.

I hate to hear about engines damaging themselves, it scares me to think how long my car was garaged over winter just being 'ticked over' occasionally to stop it seizing or somthing.

[deltaf]

Worry not Alan. That scenario only occurs on an engine that has been fitted with new cams/tappets.
The ones in your car sitting in the garage over winter has already had the faces of the tappets and the cam contact areas well and truly polished by continual usage, so its ok to leave yours running like that.
Damage occurs on parts that are new and havent been "run in". So fret no more!