Badlanz electric cutouts, slight issue

Badlanz electric cutouts, slight issue

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V8Monaro

Original Poster:

211 posts

194 months

Friday 15th March 2013
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Hello everyone,

After many months of waiting, yesterday I finally got my exhaust cutouts installed. I don't think I have ever heard a car so loud! Proper proper evil! So very happy with the results, unfortunately they will have to be used sparingly as the car would litterally wake the dead with them open! It went straight onto my milltek 2.5" exhaust, and my mechanic did a beautiful job with the weilding and the wiring. I bought the dual cutouts electric system with turn down pipes in stainless steel.

There were however 2 hiccups with these and I am hoping some of you might be able to help. First one, sorted now but still a little odd so will mention it. I had to swap the plugs around and generally fiddle with the wiring before getting both the cutouts to work. One would work, then the other would work, etc. they are both working now, but did anyone else experience this when installing theres?

The main issue however, which is not sorted yet, is that when I hold down the switch to close the cutouts, prividing I keep the switch held down, they close and the car goes back to normal straight away. However if I let go of the switch, they slightly open again, so the car goes slightly noisey again. If I then hold the switch to close, they shut but as soon as I let go, you can hear them slightly open. Did anyone else have this problem? As at the moment my car is pretty lous all the time but it sound a little blowey with the cutouts just slightly open. Any help or advice would be great as I really need them to shut fully.

Anyway heres some pics and a breif video. Listen for my mechanic get scared as he wasn't expecting it to be that loud! LOL

Before:


After:




Video


If your are around the Hertfordshire or Luton area and would like this job done the mechanic I used did a superb job at a very reasonable price and I would highly recommend him to anyone here. His name is Luke and his company is called Pacific Works. He is a very talented weilder and is getting to know his way round my Monaro very well, he said he would happily take on the job again. PM me if you want his no.

Anyway any advice would be excellent! Sorry for the long post.

Karl

SturdyHSV

10,095 posts

167 months

Friday 15th March 2013
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Can't wait to hear them, looks like a tidy job smile

Hopefully someone'll have a tip for sorting out the cut-outs fully closing

Magic919

14,126 posts

201 months

Friday 15th March 2013
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I'd have thought DMH would be a better cutout.

the_ferret82

25,627 posts

184 months

Friday 15th March 2013
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they are placed a lot futher back then i would have expected.

the job does look tidy tho.

mfp4073

1,946 posts

174 months

Friday 15th March 2013
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I had my cutouts mounted further back, but they look very similar to yours. I also had them fitted with the stainless steel down pipes. As far as I can tell both open and close at the same time. You have to press the remote for aroune 5 seconds to open or close the valves, or anywhere in between to have them slightly open.I did not bother with the toggle switch.
I must say I love to cruise around 25-30 mph just to hear that effortless muscle car sound, as for wide open throttle...yikes not in a built up area!

mfp4073

1,946 posts

174 months

Friday 15th March 2013
quotequote all
I forgot to mention I gave both cutouts a good spray of WD40. I wounder if your cutouts are catching on something or sticking somehow which prevents them closing properly?

THUNDER STORM

1,251 posts

169 months

Friday 15th March 2013
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Hi mate glad you got them in the end, lovely sound is it not.

Right here we go, I did not have any trouble with wiring, so only advise on this is that to check connections and plug in points for bad fit.

Now the issue you are having with the slightly open valve is because you have not read the instructions correctly.

To open valves, press switch for no more than 3 seconds, then release, now stab the switch once or twice with short burst to ensure fully open.

To close press and hold switch for no more than 2 seconds, then stab switch with short burst until closed fully. It will help gauge this better if window or door is open during final stage.

NOTE the valve motors are very strong and what is causing the issue you mention is that the torque of the motor winds up and then throws the valve back open on release of power switch.

So to prevent damage to set up and to ensure valves work correct, do as I say above and the experience should becloud9

You need to WD now and then, but to start off with you are making it easier to unwind that torque, so little stabs on that switch

Let me know

Adebyebye

StefanVXR8

3,603 posts

198 months

Friday 15th March 2013
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Magic919 said:
I'd have thought DMH would be a better cutout.
Yes, but with absolutely shocking customer service!

I had DMH ones on my old SRT8, they were good but also suffered the same thing of opening back up a little when letting go of the switch, wasn't overly noticeable though.

Stef

Stig

11,817 posts

284 months

Friday 15th March 2013
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I have Badlanz cutouts on the Mustang - no bother with them and Charles is a great guy to deal with.

ARAF

20,759 posts

223 months

Friday 15th March 2013
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I have the same 'issue' with closing, but know it's a design feature. I hold the switch until all goes quiet, then when they have sprung open a little, a final tap of the switch closes them. smile

GruFFnuTT

1,642 posts

195 months

Friday 15th March 2013
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Great vid Karl. Your mechanic was actually screaming!!! Haha
I must have a set of these in my life...!!!
Glad you're pleased with the results and it looks like a very neat and tidy job he's done for you.

V8monaro

Original Poster:

211 posts

194 months

Friday 15th March 2013
quotequote all
Right I have tried to be clever and not read the instructions, what a doughnut. Ok I will try this over the weekend when I next get the car out. And assuming it works, I love my cut outs!

The reason we mounted them there is because that was where there was the most room above the exhausts. Because I didn't want them to be any lower then the rest of the exhaust. So they are mounted at an angle so they point slightly upwards. So the cutouts will never ground. The only hung they are slightly near is one of the hangers, but the turndown pipe points the gases away from it. I am wondering is near potential for flaming from these? As the bangs and pops sound serious!

ARAF

20,759 posts

223 months

Friday 15th March 2013
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They should be fine. Ours are just behind the rear wheels, and haven't burnt anything yet.

V8Monaro

Original Poster:

211 posts

194 months

Saturday 23rd March 2013
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Coming back to this. I tried the fine tapping method of closing it and the results are much better. They close completely on idle now. However when I drive off and rev it, they very slightly open again so the noise changes. It would appear there is a little play in the plate. I did get under the car and make sure everything is tight, i also sprayed it all with wd40. Again a slight improvement but not perfect...

Any suggestions?

snowwolf

11,503 posts

175 months

Saturday 23rd March 2013
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V8Monaro said:
Coming back to this. I tried the fine tapping method of closing it and the results are much better. They close completely on idle now. However when I drive off and rev it, they very slightly open again so the noise changes. It would appear there is a little play in the plate. I did get under the car and make sure everything is tight, i also sprayed it all with wd40. Again a slight improvement but not perfect...

Any suggestions?
I have only worked on QTP cut outs and unsure if set up proceedure is the same, have you gone through a set up after you have fitted them? the motor needs to know where the end stops are and should not be relying on the pushing the button momentarily t find the fully open and shut position, perhaps badlands are like this?

Edited by snowwolf on Saturday 23 March 13:08

V8Monaro

Original Poster:

211 posts

194 months

Sunday 24th March 2013
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I was told by the manufacturer you need to fine tap the button until fully closed. It is litterally a switch, cannot see any way of setting it up...

THUNDER STORM

1,251 posts

169 months

Sunday 24th March 2013
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V8Monaro said:
I was told by the manufacturer you need to fine tap the button until fully closed. It is litterally a switch, cannot see any way of setting it up...
Hi again, you seem to have the knack now, so just make sure that there is no play at the butterfly allen screws and also the shaft joining coller allen screws. If these are ok, then stop spraying with WD40 and let it dry out and stiffen slightly.

Let me know in a month or so how its working, as I want you to be totally satisfied as these are the bis.

Adebyebye

V8Monaro

Original Poster:

211 posts

194 months

Friday 17th May 2013
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Hi everyone,

Coming back to this, I have never been able to get these cutouts quite perfect. I got them to close completely, and they have been rattling ever so slightly. Mucked about too much now and it has come to the point where the supplier has agreed to exchange them. Today I got my mechanic to remove them and makeup a couple of plates to blank them off for now. Now the interesting thing is since he has almost put the exhaust back to normal by doing this, my car feels SO much faster! Almost to the point where it feels like a different car.

Now I remember when I fitted them the first time I drove it thinking it didn't feel quite as quick, however I put it down to the extra noise and my imagination. But today really proved it. What I would like to know is, the rest of you who have these fitted, if the are working correctly, have you noticed any power loss? Even when they are shut? Because until today the car didn't feel as quick closed or open. I know putting a big hole in the exhaust would mess with the flow a little, but had no idea it would be this much. However this may just be down to the fact that they have not been 100% sealed shut ever. But can it ever be 100% air tight?

Any advise would be great, as I'm not sure what to do now.

Karl

SturdyHSV

10,095 posts

167 months

Friday 17th May 2013
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Hey Karl wavey

As you don't have a crossover pipe on your exhaust, I wouldn't have thought it'd make much difference (there's a scavenging effect from having an X pipe crossover)

Also, your cut-outs are pretty far back, so it's surprising the difference is that noticeable. It would have me scratching my chin, maybe somebody else will have a better answer for you scratchchin


KMud

2,924 posts

156 months

Friday 17th May 2013
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I felt when I swapped out the Wortec straight-pipes for the boxes that it pulled better.

I have just faffed about with H and X pipes - ass dyno says the X was better (consistent with common thought). I feel like I need a disclaimer, but as James said your exhaust may not be optimal.