My build thread CV8
Discussion
I also did clean the turd this evening as I popped by my sisters house,
It came out quite well,
After seeing a few people use these, I picked up one, it's a clay mitt, i find that clay'ing a car is great but I can't be bothered with the hassle
The amount of crap it took off the car was amazing, and also how quick and easy it was too! Highly recommend it
It came out quite well,
After seeing a few people use these, I picked up one, it's a clay mitt, i find that clay'ing a car is great but I can't be bothered with the hassle
The amount of crap it took off the car was amazing, and also how quick and easy it was too! Highly recommend it
raving said:
MyM8V8 said:
My humble opinion only. 
(But you wouldn't get me in a car with stretched rubber. Compliance will be compromised and they will let go earlier than when fitted to the recommended rim width.)
Bet you've never stretched any rubber in ya life have ya Gareth ;-) (But you wouldn't get me in a car with stretched rubber. Compliance will be compromised and they will let go earlier than when fitted to the recommended rim width.)
S800VXR said:
10.5" rear wheels without tubbing! That will upset some peoples here. LOL
I really like what your doing, it's the route il go down for a daily when they drop low enough to justify buying.
There is quite alot of space in the rear arches, before I fitted the rear shocks and springs I popped the wheel on and jack the suspension through its full movement, I couldnt get the wheel/tyre to rub as it does move on a arc and tucks the further it moves up. I really like what your doing, it's the route il go down for a daily when they drop low enough to justify buying.
Unfortunatly I learnt the hard way from trying to get proper rubber on the e30, so with any car doing this kind of thing you really have to fine tune the wheel et, and to be fair its all about a bit of trial and error
A very bad tyre delam at a drift day taking a guy out who was thinking of doing the same engine conversion left me with this, blew off the bumper, fuel cap and took the arch extender clean off (granted the monaro will never have treatment this harsh!!!)
From driving the monaro on stock suspension with these wheels there is so much space you must be able to fit a pretty substantial tyre in there with a less aggressive ET, granted I am running a 35 profile.
I did manage to find a set of 265/35/18s that I have arriving next week to try also
Edited by Phillphill on Friday 26th June 12:12
KMud said:
Definitely report back if you find some magic numbers for fitting wide rears (I'm tempted to get some wider rears made) - consider that Michelins are preferred and a bit wider than most though
Give me a shout if you're thinking of ordering some wheels, as I'd be interested in getting some myself- VXR8 rear wheels are so heavy!!mikeyb1987 said:
Give me a shout if you're thinking of ordering some wheels, as I'd be interested in getting some myself- VXR8 rear wheels are so heavy!!
I've got team dynamics pro races, just in standard CV8 size, 18x8. They do an 18x9 (and offset to your spec), but that may not be enough to bother changing for. Still...Light wheels make a massive difference, do it!
e: actually, can get bigger sizes of the pro race 1.3s...hmm.
Note I'm not actively trying to derail this thread, this is the problem with doing something interesting...sorry!
Edited by KMud on Friday 26th June 20:31
KMud said:
mikeyb1987 said:
Give me a shout if you're thinking of ordering some wheels, as I'd be interested in getting some myself- VXR8 rear wheels are so heavy!!
I've got team dynamics pro races, just in standard CV8 size, 18x8. They do an 18x9 (and offset to your spec), but that may not be enough to bother changing for. Still...Light wheels make a massive difference, do it!
e: actually, can get bigger sizes of the pro race 1.3s...hmm.
Note I'm not actively trying to derail this thread, this is the problem with doing something interesting...sorry!
Edited by KMud on Friday 26th June 20:31
The oe wheels that I had were mega heavy for 18s, what do the pro race cost these days?
Phillphill said:
No worries, is weight the key factor for a set of wheels?
The oe wheels that I had were mega heavy for 18s, what do the pro race cost these days?
Big reductions in rotating and unsprung mass, all good. The pro races are very cheap, think I paid about £500-600 for a set. There are however at least 3 monaros with them on now (all CV8s IIRC), so no points for originality (those go to Gurmeet)!The oe wheels that I had were mega heavy for 18s, what do the pro race cost these days?
KMud said:
mikeyb1987 said:
Give me a shout if you're thinking of ordering some wheels, as I'd be interested in getting some myself- VXR8 rear wheels are so heavy!!
I've got team dynamics pro races, just in standard CV8 size, 18x8. They do an 18x9 (and offset to your spec), but that may not be enough to bother changing for. Still...Light wheels make a massive difference, do it!
e: actually, can get bigger sizes of the pro race 1.3s...hmm.
Note I'm not actively trying to derail this thread, this is the problem with doing something interesting...sorry!
Edited by KMud on Friday 26th June 20:31
mikeyb1987 said:
Cheers Ben. I would prefer to retain 19s (as I'm a bit of a tart). Ideally I'd like 19x8 for the front and 19x9 for the rear. Although the last time I looked, they didn't do a suitable offset/pcd combination. We're your wheels custom ordered?
Yes, custom to big G's spec, ET45 and 69.5mm centre bore. Obviously the ET needs thought if going wider. They took bloody ages to be made!KMud said:
Sturdy has been there and done that, I'm just piggybacking on his efforts...you'll want one of these by the sound of it
Yep, so just ordered one of the steering wheel adapters, not the cheapest of things I will say!Ill have to drop it off to the machine shop as annoyingly the wheel I will use on the car is 74mm pcd instead of their 70mm, i did email Gforce1320 but they wouldnt change the pcd for me.
Also have started mocking up the seat and how it will sit, I like to sit low in a car but quite close to the wheel, im fairly tall and at the moment my head jams on the roof.
I was amazed at how every the stock seat is, I fell on my arse lifting it out.
A new set of rear top mounts arrived from Monkfish today so I need to sling them on to the car.
Luckily a friend of mine has a workshop/garage opening up within the next week or so, so one of the next jobs to do will be completely clean and seal the underside of the car.
After the trouble of getting the hub bolts out i think I will remove everything for the suspension again but clean it all up whilst im working on the underside of the car as at least it will make my life a little easier next time around
A quick update with some terrible photos that I will replace
Removed the shifter
Some t
t had glued it on, after an hour bashing and cutting bits it came off
I fitted the new knob and suede boot, the knob has about an inch more to seat down, however I didn't want to start bashing things outside my house at 10pm!
Pretty much all the centre console was misaligned and loose so I feel a bit better seating that down properly now.
Removed the shifter
Some t
t had glued it on, after an hour bashing and cutting bits it came offI fitted the new knob and suede boot, the knob has about an inch more to seat down, however I didn't want to start bashing things outside my house at 10pm!
Pretty much all the centre console was misaligned and loose so I feel a bit better seating that down properly now.
The steering wheel only needs the resistor, as the yellow connector lump already has the capacitor in it. I'm going to post that in the other thread too because I didn't know that at the time.
Some info from Holden service manuals in case any Googlers end up here in the future.
Conditions for the DTC codes are as below.
Values are the same for RHS side air bag as well.
DTC83 LHS AB Cap Too High
> 550nF
DTC84 LHS AB Cap Too Low
< 390nF
DTC85 LHS AB Res Too High
> 10ohms
DTC86 LHS AB Res Too Low
< 0.6Ohm
In fact, the values are also the same for the driver's and passengers airbags too, except for the drivers, the lower resistance limit is 1Ohm.
If any of these conditions are detected for more than 3-5 seconds, the DTC is set.
The airbag system still functions if any of these codes are set, unless naturally the fault causing the code is enough to actually stop it from working.
It won't stop the rest of the airbags from working however.
Some info from Holden service manuals in case any Googlers end up here in the future.
Conditions for the DTC codes are as below.
Values are the same for RHS side air bag as well.
DTC83 LHS AB Cap Too High
> 550nF
DTC84 LHS AB Cap Too Low
< 390nF
DTC85 LHS AB Res Too High
> 10ohms
DTC86 LHS AB Res Too Low
< 0.6Ohm
In fact, the values are also the same for the driver's and passengers airbags too, except for the drivers, the lower resistance limit is 1Ohm.
If any of these conditions are detected for more than 3-5 seconds, the DTC is set.
The airbag system still functions if any of these codes are set, unless naturally the fault causing the code is enough to actually stop it from working.
It won't stop the rest of the airbags from working however.
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