Discussion
car is an ls3 ve maloo , the aircon belt jumped , new one put on , did not last long , i did not realise it had jumped it then got chewed a bit , up to that point i’m not that bothered , ive ordered the a c braket mod from oz , but the bit i am concerned about is it has caused an oil leak from what appears to be the front pulley , is it likely to be temporary now bits of belt is removed or do i have an issue ? any thoughts please
vxr2010 said:
oh dear , i’ve run it up and seen no more leaks but i’m assuming under more pressure it will leak again , ive tried googling but not clear but can the front crank seal be changed just by removing crank pulley or is it front of engine off ?
Just keep an eye on it. Oil pressure wont affect it, but it would only really leak with engine running. Whilst changing the seal itself is fairly easy....getting that damn front pulley off isnt always quite so easy ( and also needs a simple too to safely pull/press it back on again )Cheers for the above , bolt and gasket ordered , it did not appear to be leaking after the belt had been removed when i was running it up , im concerned it was leaking before i took all the broken bent off , so maybe i will see what happens i’m not expecting the best , bolt i expect is very tight , the pulley special tool needed or a bit of brute force ? and i assume a case of prying out the old seal and tapping a new one in with the timing cover still in place , any other tips please ? , all this issue due to a belt jumping i wished i changed it before
You need an internal puller to pull the damper off. To refit it you need a length of studding, 18mm iirc and a tubuler spacer between the nut and pulley i/d. Then you can press the damper home. You'll then use your old bolt to settle the damper in place before finally torqueing it up to the correct amount with your new bolt. It helps to remove the starter so that you can lock up the flywheel.
M16x2.0 threaded bar.
Shouldnt be too hard to find as it's a very common size for structural steel work.
Around 8" or so should do but always best to buy longer. And nuts, you'll Ideally need a little guide made up too to locate the pulley when pulling on, the front hole is a bit big for washers etc.
Shouldnt be too hard to find as it's a very common size for structural steel work.
Around 8" or so should do but always best to buy longer. And nuts, you'll Ideally need a little guide made up too to locate the pulley when pulling on, the front hole is a bit big for washers etc.
After around 10 hours of trying to get the cam sensor out it’s snapped off and fell into the timing cover , ive managed to get pulley bolt off , need to get pulley off so bought the approved puller to do that , does the timing cover unscrew on its own or does the water pump have to come off to get the timing cover off , the pulley bolt plus around the pulley bolt had oil on it so that appears to be the issue
After around 10 hours of trying to get the cam sensor out it’s snapped off and fell into the timing cover , ive managed to get pulley bolt off , need to get pulley off so bought the approved puller to do that , does the timing cover unscrew on its own or does the water pump have to come off to get the timing cover off , the pulley bolt plus around the pulley bolt had oil on it so that appears to be the issue
Thank you to every ones help and advice , it was a bit of a pig of a job , but once you have done it once then easier in the future , front oil seal was in two parts so well gone , cam sensor as above took ages to try and get it out it finally snapped but was easy to take out with timing cover off , found an extra oil seal on the back of the pulley so that went back in , all appears ok i’m just waiting for ac mod pulley from aus , pulley bolt i ended up by doing it FT as i could not tighten it any more i can’t see it coming un done i did try and follow torque requirements , new water pump gaskets, timing gasket , crank bolt , pulley , cam sensor , it said put the timing cover back on then tighten the pulley then do timing cover up as the timing cover centres over the crank gasket better , im simple terms if the ac belt jumps just do the mod as it will jump again , all in all it’s cost around 500£ plus some import duty for ac mod as it’s not arrived yet , i got away with no damage on the first occasion the belt jumped second time no symptoms and a mullered oil seal , no engine damage slight loss of oil , due to plastic swarf from cam sensor i may do an oil change or is that over kill , would oil filter pick up the bits ? it more shavings from drilling the sensor than actual bits of it
on the vxr8 it’s pretty straight forward , i assume the same on a monaro ? drain some of the coolant , the main drive belt just loosen tensioner and take belt off , engine cover off , i took the fans off with the rad in situ as i needed more space but you maybe fine , two water pipes off rad bottom pipe off , 6 bolts to un do on the pump , it needed a bit of light tapping , two new water pump gaskets , just be careful of air locks , make sure the two heater matrix pipes and what they slide on to are dry first i had a little leak there , i filled it up as i was running it so air came out , until it got too warm so stuck the cap on , i then kept checking it , you don’t have to loose all coolant unless you are doing a full change , quite an easy job , what
went wrong with your pump , if you are local to me i don’t mind helping
went wrong with your pump , if you are local to me i don’t mind helping
vxr2010 said:
on the vxr8 it’s pretty straight forward , i assume the same on a monaro ? drain some of the coolant , the main drive belt just loosen tensioner and take belt off , engine cover off , i took the fans off with the rad in situ as i needed more space but you maybe fine , two water pipes off rad bottom pipe off , 6 bolts to un do on the pump , it needed a bit of light tapping , two new water pump gaskets , just be careful of air locks , make sure the two heater matrix pipes and what they slide on to are dry first i had a little leak there , i filled it up as i was running it so air came out , until it got too warm so stuck the cap on , i then kept checking it , you don’t have to loose all coolant unless you are doing a full change , quite an easy job , what
went wrong with your pump , if you are local to me i don’t mind helping
So, a while ago the OE rad started leaking...I bought the Mishimoto and Topcats fitted it. After, I still noted evidence of coolant leaking from the water pump area. After investigation on the Pontiac GTO forums, it appears that if the rad goes there is a chance the pump will follow it, usually through a weep hole. It is coming off the big 'bell' and flicking all over the shop.went wrong with your pump , if you are local to me i don’t mind helping
That's very kind offering to help, I'm in Marlow and would absolutely appreciate any help whatsoever. It looks straightforward but these things never are!
vxr2010 said:
Thank you to every ones help and advice , it was a bit of a pig of a job , but once you have done it once then easier in the future , front oil seal was in two parts so well gone , cam sensor as above took ages to try and get it out it finally snapped but was easy to take out with timing cover off , found an extra oil seal on the back of the pulley so that went back in , all appears ok i’m just waiting for ac mod pulley from aus , pulley bolt i ended up by doing it FT as i could not tighten it any more i can’t see it coming un done i did try and follow torque requirements , new water pump gaskets, timing gasket , crank bolt , pulley , cam sensor , it said put the timing cover back on then tighten the pulley then do timing cover up as the timing cover centres over the crank gasket better , im simple terms if the ac belt jumps just do the mod as it will jump again , all in all it’s cost around 500£ plus some import duty for ac mod as it’s not arrived yet , i got away with no damage on the first occasion the belt jumped second time no symptoms and a mullered oil seal , no engine damage slight loss of oil , due to plastic swarf from cam sensor i may do an oil change or is that over kill , would oil filter pick up the bits ? it more shavings from drilling the sensor than actual bits of it
Found an extra oil seal on the back of the pulley ??? Something not normal there.Define FT ? Actual torque is pretty damn tight and will require locking the crank from turning to achieve. Bolt is supposed to be replaced too.
And water pump is an easy job.
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