Discussion
vxr2010 said:
if it drives bring it to herts a bit of a trek i know , it is if things go right fairly straight forward to do that was the easy part of my job
Cheers, I may take you up on that. A friend said he'd help me and my main aim is to get two sets of eyes on the task in case I make any cock ups!stevieturbo said:
Found an extra oil seal on the back of the pulley ??? Something not normal there.
Define FT ? Actual torque is pretty damn tight and will require locking the crank from turning to achieve. Bolt is supposed to be replaced too.
And water pump is an easy job.
Guessing he means the rubber/steel shim thing that goes behind the pulley on late engines?Define FT ? Actual torque is pretty damn tight and will require locking the crank from turning to achieve. Bolt is supposed to be replaced too.
And water pump is an easy job.
Hi yes that’s the part , i put it in there for good measure , it was not a tight fit on the new pulley it is probably not needed but i took it off so may as well put it on , i found it on the floor and wondered where it had come from , FT was as tight as i could go plus i used a new bolt on it i would expect my FT to be the same as there tight , i could not go any tighter it won’t be coming off ,
If you are serious about coming up you are more than welcome and i will give you my address don’t forgey anti freeze it was the red one in mine
If you are serious about coming up you are more than welcome and i will give you my address don’t forgey anti freeze it was the red one in mine
The cam position sensor appeared cracked after the belt gave way , it appears the bit that goes in to the timing cover swells with heat so won’t come out , i was drilling it using a solder iron to try and melt it out it finally broke off inside but i was working on it for around 8 hours to no avail , the bolt puller for the crank pulley was no good as no holes to screw the bolt into so i had a normal 2 leg pulley that worked , the bolt on the pulley was easy enough to get off but as above not easy to tighten , foot on brake hand brake on 5th gear and that was enough , it was tight as i could go , still not sure if i should oil change or not ?
vxr2010 said:
Hi yes that’s the part , i put it in there for good measure , it was not a tight fit on the new pulley it is probably not needed but i took it off so may as well put it on , i found it on the floor and wondered where it had come from , FT was as tight as i could go plus i used a new bolt on it i would expect my FT to be the same as there tight , i could not go any tighter it won’t be coming off ,
If you are serious about coming up you are more than welcome and i will give you my address don’t forgey anti freeze it was the red one in mine
Thanks for the offer, but I got up at 8 this morning and wrestled with the car to change the water pump. Long story short it's done! If you are serious about coming up you are more than welcome and i will give you my address don’t forgey anti freeze it was the red one in mine
Thanks again and I'll keep the offer in my back pocket!
vxr2010 said:
Don’t forget to check you have no air in the system
So, when I said 'long story short'......It did take me longer than expected to complete, I had to remove OTRCAI, battery, throttle body and move the fans a bit. A couple of the water pump bolts were an absolute b
h to get to and the thermostat gasket wouldn't seat right until I cleaned off the ridge inside the housing. The bell on the water pump (aptly named as I must have rung it about 100 times during fitment!) is a little taller than the old one, only by about a centimetre or so, but it is closer to the fan assembly. Not an issue, just something I noticed.
So, all back together, I filled through the top hose and got about 6 litres in. Top hose on and carefully flled the radiator through the filler cap. Started engine with cap off and heat on full, a few bubbles and up to heat. Cap on, drove for a bit, parked up again and allowed to cool. Lots more coolant needed, so topped it and repeated twice more. I can't get any more in now; after a 35 mile round trip the level is solid.
One issue that has appeared is the voltage gauge; since I connected back up it is playing up. It rises and drops in line with revs and indicates 13v at best. Having used a voltmeter across the battery I have 12.6v when the engine is off and 14v when running. Also I use the torque app which shows System voltage solid at 13.6v when driving, which I presume is battery charging voltage minus draw. I'm not concerned, I just can't be doing with a dodgy gauge - it's no good for my analytical eye (OCD).
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