Exhaust Butterfly Valves - Anyone Retrofitted Theirs?
Discussion
When the valve is open the gases go straight through the silencer and out the tailpipe(loud)
With the valve shut the gases get routed around the inside of the silencer like a conventional silencer then again rejoins and exits the tailpipe (quiet)


With the valve shut the gases get routed around the inside of the silencer like a conventional silencer then again rejoins and exits the tailpipe (quiet)
Edited by L2VXR on Friday 3rd January 16:11
Edited by L2VXR on Friday 3rd January 20:58
Cheers fella, makes perfect sense now I have seen the pictures and looks pretty darn straightforward. Thanks for sharing that with me, i'm sure that will have also inspired a few others to do such a good mod. My car only really gets driven in the dry and not in the winter so wear on the valves should be limited based on them not getting overly wet or corroded.
I've had one gearbox fail on the motor my own fault really for trying to close them whilst accelerating down a slip road and assume the gas pressure caused the teeth (metal not plastic) to shear off in the gearbox i now have a few spare motors as there cheap @ £7 from the same supplier as the link i posted so I'd add a few to your order if thats the way you go. I personally dont think their any less reliable than the expensive options I've seen plenty of them fail much worse than mine and mine have been easy and cheap to fix.
?7.40 20%OFF | ESPEEDER Universal Exhaust Cutout Stand And Motor High Quality Valve Motor Kit
https://a.aliexpress.com/XustVhBqb
The only other thing to consider is whether you want to have a switch in the cockpit or the remote control option with keyfob. I preferred the switch option but obviously that involves routing the wires and placing a switch wherever you want one
?7.40 20%OFF | ESPEEDER Universal Exhaust Cutout Stand And Motor High Quality Valve Motor Kit
https://a.aliexpress.com/XustVhBqb
Edited by L2VXR on Friday 3rd January 18:59
The only other thing to consider is whether you want to have a switch in the cockpit or the remote control option with keyfob. I preferred the switch option but obviously that involves routing the wires and placing a switch wherever you want one
Edited by L2VXR on Friday 3rd January 19:06
L2VXR said:
The exhaust tube is 2.5" but the cut out valve used is classed as 3" . ie a 3" cutout has a 2.5" flap a 2.5" cutout has a smaller flap and would restrict the flow
2.5" cutout

3" cutout

My valve used to fail quite often, so I made a couple of modifications...2.5" cutout
3" cutout
Edited by L2VXR on Tuesday 31st December 09:53
1. Improve the quality of the soldering to the motor.
2. Drill out and retap the M4 spindle bolts to M5.
I used a DPDT switch (1a-0-1b with spring return to 0) to operate the valve. Hold in position 1a to open the valve. Hold in position 1b to close the valve. It takes just over two seconds to open or close the valve, so I just count to three and release. I have considered using a timer, but can't be bothered
.pingu393 said:
My valve used to fail quite often, so I made a couple of modifications...
1. Improve the quality of the soldering to the motor.
2. Drill out and retap the M4 spindle bolts to M5.
I used a DPDT switch (1a-0-1b with spring return to 0) to operate the valve. Hold in position 1a to open the valve. Hold in position 1b to close the valve. It takes just over two seconds to open or close the valve, so I just count to three and release. I have considered using a timer, but can't be bothered
.
Yes engineered improvements as they occur is my plan also . The kit i linked comes with the controller to open and close with one touch so no need to hold the switch.1. Improve the quality of the soldering to the motor.
2. Drill out and retap the M4 spindle bolts to M5.
I used a DPDT switch (1a-0-1b with spring return to 0) to operate the valve. Hold in position 1a to open the valve. Hold in position 1b to close the valve. It takes just over two seconds to open or close the valve, so I just count to three and release. I have considered using a timer, but can't be bothered
.I got under mine yesterday and unfortunately I think I will need to look for a different solution as my system doesn't have the same twin entry pipe to the rear silencers as you can see from the pics. So I think it will be chop pipe and stick a Y piece in that vents to atmosphere.



Didn't have my Vernier so I will need to check pipe OD but I assume a 3' set up will still be what I need for the valves if the pipe OD is 2.5'?
Didn't have my Vernier so I will need to check pipe OD but I assume a 3' set up will still be what I need for the valves if the pipe OD is 2.5'?
mine is basically a cut out with a valve in it , it can work on a standard exhaust back boxes just a cut and weld , it is not that much at an exhaust place to get two custom rear boxes made up from fresh , i was lucky i found two on ebay already made but with no silencer in them so just got it modded with the cut out plus put a small silencer in each back box , i did mine on a budget using the existing bi modal system , valves about 50£ each , i could have used holdens original valves and cut them out of the back box , two resonators removed from each centre pipe so four in total replaced with a straight through pipe , removing the resonators made quite a lot of difference , back boxes about 90£ for the pair , silencer about 60£ or so per box , i was thinking of going bigger bore on my mid section but after taking it for a run yesterday i’m not doing it now i think it’s as good as it will get
If that is a wortec it'll be a mk1 . The rear silencer on that is straight through and dose little to quiten anything down. Has yours got two more silencer mid way under the rear seat if so these do most of the silencing and were interchangeable with a section of pipe . I don't think adding cutouts to a mk1 wortec would be worth the trouble unless you like the sound of open headers 



I'm not sure if it is a MK1 Wortec or not. I will have a look re silencers mid way. Put it this way it certainly doesn't sound like yours does when your valve is open. Its a lot quieter. Certainly going to do the mod as I like a challenge and it just might make a difference. Plus it's a toy and I like toys!!
99PBATR said:
I'm not sure if it is a MK1 Wortec or not. I will have a look re silencers mid way. Put it this way it certainly doesn't sound like yours does when your valve is open. Its a lot quieter. Certainly going to do the mod as I like a challenge and it just might make a difference. Plus it's a toy and I like toys!!
Why dont you buy BADLANDS cut out valves and fit after the cats with a stainless steel Y pipe, the sound is awsome and away from the rear end of car. This keeps them clean and dry, no roblems with faults.Fitted to my Monaro VXR around 2008-2009 and still working OK.
Just go on BADLANDS site in America the rest is Straight forward. Plenty youtube videos,
Ade

Gassing Station | HSV & Monaro | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff


