Monkfish Wortec remap? Monaro 6.0

[jelevents]

Way back in the good old days when the fish was open I had my Wortec car back fitted and at the time I remember there was an option to add a remap but I just went for the exhaust.
Just been reading some old posts and although the map was only a small boost I think 25-30 bhp
the posters reported great improvement in driveability and throttle response etc.
So just wondering if the map is still available and as good as I've read?
Btw car is std apart from the catback, K&N panel filter and air box mod.

Edited by jelevents on Thursday 22 October 19:47

[Boosted LS1]

I think you need that australian bloke to help you. I can't spell his name but he's well respected for doing the tunes. Louis salsa or something similar.

[jelevents]

Boosted LS1 said:

I think you need that australian bloke to help you. I can't spell his name but he's well respected for doing the tunes. Louis salsa or something similar.

Nice one

[mfp4073]

Was it Louis Sola? Or something similar.
Failing that the Monkfish map was from Wortec located in Southampton.

[Lincsls1]

You're all wrong. Its Luis Sola.

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

I have to say though, personally, I wouldn't bother with a bog standard LS2 VXR.
The big results came only from the 2004 CV8 which had a very under tuned map from the factory and to some extent the 2005 CV8.

[mfp4073]

Damn I was so close to getting that guys name right .....but ...truth be told ...I was wrong

[TerryS]

You should contact Luis, he is an incredibly helpful & honest guy.

[SturdyHSV]

As above, contact Luis, he'll tell you straight if it's worthwhile and so on.

[vxr2010]

I know the 04 cv8 ls1 has very long diff ratios , but when i got a 3.9 put in it was a lot more noticeable than a remap on my ls1 ute that i got mapped , so if you want a noticeable bigger punch worth considering a diff ratio change rather than a re map , if a re map only gives you 20 or so bhp it’s not very noticeable and makes little difference in performance

[fred bloggs]

For him to map the car, you need efi live,a wideband and then make some data logs to send him. Mapping on the road is ok, for the drivability stuff, but you really want to do the full throttle stuff on a dyno ,if you value your licence.

There are plenty of places that can map a GM ecu now, Last map I got done in two hours of dyno time.

That said, if the car is stock,don't bother. Have a cam done, youll notice that

[JAMESHSV1]

vxr2010 said:

I know the 04 cv8 ls1 has very long diff ratios , but when i got a 3.9 put in it was a lot more noticeable than a remap on my ls1 ute that i got mapped , so if you want a noticeable bigger punch worth considering a diff ratio change rather than a re map , if a re map only gives you 20 or so bhp it’s not very noticeable and makes little difference in performance

Don't forget the 6.0ltr vxr gearbox has different ratio to the 04 cv8 so a 3.9 diff may not be of any use

[jelevents]

Thanks for all the responses, I'm guessing if I change the cam I'll definitely need a remap afterwards?

[mfp4073]

jelevents said:

Thanks for all the responses, I'm guessing if I change the cam I'll definitely need a remap afterwards?

Yes absolutely, without a remap a cam swop would be pointless. Don't forget the matching valve springs and pushrods to go with it.

[SturdyHSV]

jelevents said:

Thanks for all the responses, I'm guessing if I change the cam I'll definitely need a remap afterwards?

Yes, if it's enough of a change to be worthwhile, it'll need a remap. It will be safe enough to start / pootle, but it may well stall when trying to return to idle and it wouldn't be wise to give it the beans.

As mentioned, you'd really want to upgrade the valvesprings if upgrading the cam, and as the cam base circle is (very) likely to be smaller, then you'd want longer pushrods to maintain decent lash. The springs are going to be of a higher pressure and so stiffer pushrods are also advisable, but realistically all aftermarket ones will be stiffer than the stock ones I expect.

If you want "the idle", you won't pass a legit MOT, and you're likeyl to be shifting the powerband a bit higher. If you're not fussed about idle you're in the fortunate position that you can get a cam that will pick up power everywhere, scrape an MOT, be fairly easy on the valvetrain and not ruin fuel economy. But then again, who doesn't love the chop chop at idle

Also, your lifters are likely to be recommended to be replaced if it's done some miles, which does require taking the heads off, but other than being messy this is an easy job (which will also require new head bolts as they are TTY).

I have a cam, lifters, pushrods, springs / retainers that came off mine as I've gone bigger on everything as part of my new engine if you were interested, it wouldn't ever pass an MOT though

[fred bloggs]

Also a choppy cam with overlap will make the car stink,Its horrible in traffic. If it does still have a cat,it'll soon wreck that.

Edited by fred bloggs on Friday 30th October 12:51

I'd imagine headers and full exhaust and then a map would be noticeable, even with a stock cam.

Edited by fred bloggs on Friday 30th October 12:55

[dazvxr]

fred bloggs said:

Also a choppy cam with overlap will make the car stink,Its horrible in traffic. If it does still have a cat,it'll soon wreck that.

Edited by fred bloggs on Friday 30th October 12:51

I'd imagine headers and full exhaust and then a map would be noticeable, even with a stock cam.

Edited by fred bloggs on Friday 30th October 12:55

Not always not MOT-able, mine scrapes the mot limit as I had it checked just after I bought it, it's had a cam, heads, pipes, inlet, mapped efi live by rich Ingram etc. Admittedly we had to get the cats very hot, but it met the limit. Driving in traffic is not too bad either, it's far less annoying than the wife's start-stop thing, its hateful.

[Aitch H]

Both of mine had cams, heads, inlets etc and I never had any problems with either of them in traffic and both passed MOT’s. The first one had the Monkfish magic 2 cam so was quite ‘choppy/lumpy’ on tick over too

Edit to add: neither of them stunk or were horrible in traffic either

Edited by Aitch H on Sunday 1st November 02:01

[SturdyHSV]

It's different definitions of choppy idle.

A 'choppy' cam won't pass emissions because of the intake / exhaust being open at the same time, at idle this causes all sorts of exciting messy airflow and unburnt fuel out the back (hence the smell) and all sorts. Can also cause some bucking and surging under load at low rpm but unless it's an enormous cam most of that can be tuned out given time / skill.

The monkfish magic cams were around 220/224 ish (they varied over their lifetime with development), with a decently large LSA to keep the overlap down. They provide a good amount of torque across the range. They are MOT friendly and have good driveability, a small cam like that is very much a win win. They do have a 'different' idle, but not what some would consider 'choppy'

e.g This has 8* of overlap at 0.050", and thus has some 'chop', but it smells fuelly out the back etc.

[fred bloggs]

Thanks for explaining sturdy. I couldn’t be assed. I did say a cam ‘with overlap’
I went with a 230/236 113. I’ve mitigated the inlet charge reversion with some itb’s and idle quality is excellent.

Edited by fred bloggs on Friday 6th November 17:17

[SturdyHSV]

fred bloggs said:

Thanks for explaining sturdy. I couldn’t be assed. I did say a cam ‘with overlap’
I went with a 230/236 113. I’ve mitigated the inlet charge reversion with some itb’s and idle quality is excellent.

Yours is a 5.7 too right? I've opted to go for cubes to help tame the cam, stroking to 6.6 litres, upping the cam to a custom grind for the new heads, around 237/242 on a 113+2. It'll smell / sound fantastic