Lights and fan problems T350 2004 model

Lights and fan problems T350 2004 model

Author
Discussion

norsetvr

Original Poster:

9 posts

103 months

Monday 21st September 2015
quotequote all
Hi Guys!

I have just bought a TVR T350 and brought it from Germany to Norway. The car has not been used for a couple of years and there are a couple of things I hope someone can help me in the right direction with.
I have searched a little around this forum and in general on the net but not found anything similar and I have no idea what car to relate the problem other than the Tamora, Sagaris and the T350 as they are as I understand very similar in their build except exterior. Since there are only a handful of TVR's over here there are not any specialist workshops with knowledge to TVR.

Firstly the lights.
I have no driving lights at the front, only the parking lights. The rear works, brake light, reverse and driving lights but turning the switch to it different positions nothing happens other than the green led lights on the switch lights up correctly and changes accordingly to the position I turn the knob to. The high beam works but only when you pull and hold the lever but it does not “click” over to stay at high beam when you release it.
I have checked the fuses, switched position on the relay with another one that looked to have the same function with nothing happening.
Any ideas?

Fans
Only one of the fans start when the watertemp gets high, as a result its running a little warmer than I like.
Are they meant to start at the same time or are they set to start at different temperatures?

All help is appreciated from here up north, there are only a handful TVR’s up here and most of them are older models. Im now one week into my first TVR ownership (its my 40th birthday present to myself) and im keen to use it a little before the arrival of snow and salt on our roads

KillerJim

968 posts

203 months

Monday 21st September 2015
quotequote all
norsetvr said:
Firstly the lights.
I'd check for broken connections at the lights. I've to look at my left main beam over the Winter as road bumps will knock it on / off.


norsetvr said:
Fans
Normally only one fan will run, unless it's very hot in there and then both will kick in. What does the (inaccurate) dash say the water temperature is?

norsetvr

Original Poster:

9 posts

103 months

Monday 21st September 2015
quotequote all
KillerJim said:
Normally only one fan will run, unless it's very hot in there and then both will kick in. What does the (inaccurate) dash say the water temperature is?
I dont know yet, the previous owner just told me he thought the car was running too hot and noticed only one fan was running. He did not know much about cars or TVR. He recommended me not to drive it before this was sorted. I got the car on a trailer from Berlin to Norway.
What temperatures should the fans kick in? As I said the car has been sitting for a while I want to take a service on it before I use it. Waiting for some parts from TVR Parts due here on Wednesday.


Edited by norsetvr on Monday 21st September 09:47

NCE 61

2,386 posts

281 months

Monday 21st September 2015
quotequote all
The first fan starts at 92 Deg.C the second at 96 Deg.C.

Possible problems are the fuses, relays or the electrical connections at the fans.

norsetvr

Original Poster:

9 posts

103 months

Monday 21st September 2015
quotequote all
I just now noticed the headlight problem thread by thatsprettyshady, will for sure check the cables and connections

Edited by norsetvr on Monday 21st September 12:43

shep1001

4,599 posts

189 months

Monday 21st September 2015
quotequote all
NCE 61 said:
The first fan starts at 92 Deg.C the second at 96 Deg.C.

Possible problems are the fuses, relays or the electrical connections at the fans.
This - the relays can stick/fail so swap them over and see what happens. The connectors corrode so try giving them a wiggle and see if the fan runs when the car is hot. It's not a big job to lop them off and fit waterproof ones just remember to connect them up the right way round.

Lastly the temp read out on the dash may not reflect reality the sensor can be a bit flakey at best. The ecu reads off a separate sensor which you can see when plugged into the diagnostics tool. Mine is out by 8-10 degrees at the moment so the dash temp indicates fan 1 starts at 100oc in reality it's 92. The second comes in at a recorded 104 degrees which the ecu is seeing as 96oc

thatsprettyshady

1,824 posts

165 months

Monday 21st September 2015
quotequote all
norsetvr said:
I just now noticed the headlight problem thread by thatsprettyshady, will for sure check the cables and connections

Edited by norsetvr on Monday 21st September 12:43
Haha I was just about to link my thread!

Dash is really easy to remove its just two Allen bolts, one below the heater controls and one below the light controls underneath the dash. Slide the dash out make sure you support it so it doesn't damage the wheel/trim. Follow the ribbon cables from the light switch and give everything a once over checking connections (you can have the headlights/ignitions on) and it might all work.

Regarding the fans it's important to know what temp the car is running at, 90-95 for water and 80+ for oil is completely fine and normal for these cars.

Have fun, TVRs are fantastic when they're running right.


Edited by thatsprettyshady on Monday 21st September 22:22

Granturadriver

577 posts

261 months

Thursday 24th September 2015
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Hi, a T350 from Germany not used for years? Interesting! Were is it from?

Have a look to Graham Varley's page with lots of information http://www.varleyhyd.com/FJ062.asp and try to get one of his very helpful bibles!

Fan problems could also be the result of an air bulb in the water system. You need than to remove the air of the system. Most venting screws are on top of the radiator. Jacking up the car at front is helpful.

norsetvr

Original Poster:

9 posts

103 months

Tuesday 3rd November 2015
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This is the car in questionsmile


Its chassis number SDLFB17A43B001395 and i think the British plate was 9X04NZA

Regarding my problems i cleaned the electrical contacts for the fans and they both are running now. I will buy a new thermostat opening at a 74 degrees and temp sensor + data cable to read the proper temps from the ECU to keep me from worrying about the temp.
As for the lights I have not had any time to look at it yet and now the car has been stored away for the winter. I will get to work a little on it over the winter so I will update if I find the solution.
As this is a low volume sports car build in a shed there will always be some small issues occurring When I took it to the storage the door opening button inside stopped working, outside under the mirror works fine.. more to work on


Ron L

28 posts

239 months

Friday 29th January 2016
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Did you ever identify what was the cause of your headlight problem, I have an identical problem on my Tamora which has been laid up for probably 2 years or more, and its pretty much the only thing preventing the car returning to the road?

portzi

2,296 posts

175 months

Friday 29th January 2016
quotequote all
norsetvr said:
This is the car in questionsmile


Its chassis number SDLFB17A43B001395 and i think the British plate was 9X04NZA

Regarding my problems i cleaned the electrical contacts for the fans and they both are running now. I will buy a new thermostat opening at a 74 degrees and temp sensor + data cable to read the proper temps from the ECU to keep me from worrying about the temp.
As for the lights I have not had any time to look at it yet and now the car has been stored away for the winter. I will get to work a little on it over the winter so I will update if I find the solution.
As this is a low volume sports car build in a shed there will always be some small issues occurring? When I took it to the storage the door opening button inside stopped working, outside under the mirror works fine.. more to work on?
It's a beautiful looking car, TVR and niggly problems come hand in hand.

thatsprettyshady

1,824 posts

165 months

Friday 29th January 2016
quotequote all
Ron L said:
Did you ever identify what was the cause of your headlight problem, I have an identical problem on my Tamora which has been laid up for probably 2 years or more, and its pretty much the only thing preventing the car returning to the road?
Did you try what I suggested further up the page?

Ron L

28 posts

239 months

Friday 29th January 2016
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Gonna try following the Ribbon cables back tomorrow, will let you know how i get on.

Ron L

28 posts

239 months

Saturday 30th January 2016
quotequote all
Followed the ribbon cables back from the light switch, wriggled them around, disconnected and reconnected them and no different, the problem is still there. Its weird, when you switch the sidelights on the dash lights dim as they should. When you move the switch to the headlight dip beam position the dash lights go back to the higher intensity day setting. Are the ribbons a common fault? Wondering if it is the headlight switch itself but its an expensive buy if its something else!

thatsprettyshady

1,824 posts

165 months

Saturday 30th January 2016
quotequote all
Ron L said:
Followed the ribbon cables back from the light switch, wriggled them around, disconnected and reconnected them and no different, the problem is still there. Its weird, when you switch the sidelights on the dash lights dim as they should. When you move the switch to the headlight dip beam position the dash lights go back to the higher intensity day setting. Are the ribbons a common fault? Wondering if it is the headlight switch itself but its an expensive buy if its something else!
you followed the ribbon from the switch to the back of the dash pod?

Ron L

28 posts

239 months

Saturday 30th January 2016
quotequote all
Nope, the ribbon from the light switch goes as far as a PCB where the main harness/loom plugs into too.

thatsprettyshady

1,824 posts

165 months

Sunday 31st January 2016
quotequote all
Ron L said:
Nope, the ribbon from the light switch goes as far as a PCB where the main harness/loom plugs into too.
Gosh I've only been without my old Tiv for a month and already I've forgotten about it frown

shep1001

4,599 posts

189 months

Sunday 31st January 2016
quotequote all
Ron L said:
Followed the ribbon cables back from the light switch, wriggled them around, disconnected and reconnected them and no different, the problem is still there. Its weird, when you switch the sidelights on the dash lights dim as they should. When you move the switch to the headlight dip beam position the dash lights go back to the higher intensity day setting. Are the ribbons a common fault? Wondering if it is the headlight switch itself but its an expensive buy if its something else!
In the POD menu you can set the brightness of the clock pack back lights for off/side/dipped beam individually to whatever you want between 0-100% thats why they are changing as you switch between the headlight settings.


Edited by shep1001 on Sunday 31st January 23:53

Ron L

28 posts

239 months

Monday 1st February 2016
quotequote all
That makes sense then on the backlighting but still struggling to locate the underlying problem (no dipped beam). Now looking at the IDC patch panel which I'm gonna send off to PS electronics and have checked out.

shep1001

4,599 posts

189 months

Monday 1st February 2016
quotequote all
Ron L said:
That makes sense then on the backlighting but still struggling to locate the underlying problem (no dipped beam). Now looking at the IDC patch panel which I'm gonna send off to PS electronics and have checked out.
Have you checked the relay splice? I think the lights run through it as well as a few other bits & pieces