Stiff gearchange when hot
Discussion
I have this in the Chim with 4th gear, unsure whether it's the same gearbox?
If the issue were getting INTO gear, then the conventional wisdom is gearbox internals-related - but sticking when coming OUT of gear could include a number of other factors.
I have had mine looked at a couple of times but the issue persists.
I am wondering whether this is a linkage mechanism-related issue.
I don't know exactly how the bushings work, but my current suspicions are that maybe there is a rubber bush which has aged, and goes sticky when hot...
Going into gear is no problem, as some part of the metal (?) is pushed against the exposed sticky part of the bush.
It's only when you then go to change gear and the shifter mechanism tries to move away from that part of the rubber, that the sticky bush clings and stops the shifter being easily moved away from that position.
Mine gets so bad I sometimes have to whack it out of gear with my palm (hard!) - so I would really love to find the definitive solution to this...
Dom
Edited to add: doesn't do it when cold, and only affects 4th gear - this is why thinking something to do with gearstick position rather than other components which would affect all gears?
If the issue were getting INTO gear, then the conventional wisdom is gearbox internals-related - but sticking when coming OUT of gear could include a number of other factors.
I have had mine looked at a couple of times but the issue persists.
I am wondering whether this is a linkage mechanism-related issue.
I don't know exactly how the bushings work, but my current suspicions are that maybe there is a rubber bush which has aged, and goes sticky when hot...
Going into gear is no problem, as some part of the metal (?) is pushed against the exposed sticky part of the bush.
It's only when you then go to change gear and the shifter mechanism tries to move away from that part of the rubber, that the sticky bush clings and stops the shifter being easily moved away from that position.
Mine gets so bad I sometimes have to whack it out of gear with my palm (hard!) - so I would really love to find the definitive solution to this...
Dom
Edited to add: doesn't do it when cold, and only affects 4th gear - this is why thinking something to do with gearstick position rather than other components which would affect all gears?
Edited by Dominic TVRetto on Monday 7th January 13:12
Clutch not disengaging. Chim/griff set up has a linkage on top of the box as the tail extension has the lever in the centre so the linkage shifts it forwards. The T cars have the forward position gearstick tail extension although some of the later V8 motors do have this I think, so no TVR design clunky linkage. Cosworth Sierra has the lever at the back of the tail extension so if you want sit in the boot to change gear get a Cossie box... what there is, is a nasty bracket that can stick you in 5th gear, it holds the reversing light switch and is a tricky item. Watch this if you have a clicky 5th as it will let you in but not out...
When hot the plates, driven, pressure and intermediate friction plate/centre plate/lifting plate, depending where you’re from determines the name, all expand and the whole thing locks into drive through. I had it happen in the Tuscan, although this is a triple plate and not the normal AP and all I could do was park up and wait. The AP in the Tivs has a lot of mass in the pressure and intermediate friction plate and this expansion tends to happen more slowly but it also means it takes longer to cool down so for most situations it is fine unless you really cook it up. What does seem likely is a common problem with the set of springs that are meant to keep the driven plates away from the pressure plate/flywheel/intermediate friction plate hence we have a set up that doesn’t really cut it. This is restricted or controlled by the infamous starlok washers that usually fall off when they snap meaning the springs are not controlled so one plate drags most of the time the clutch is disengaged. The stroke needs to kept as tight as possible otherwise over stroking will break the fingers, most mechanics know this and tend to lay off the travel a bit, which is fine but it means as the plates wear you may need to travel the bearing a bit further, we are only talking an extra 2mm odd wear from new to old on the plates and as the starting and finishing position of a stroke should alter together, give or take as the angle of the finger shifts, you don’t need to add much so wind the stop in a turn at a time and see what you get. If you go too far you will break fingers and then you’re up s..t creak so if after 4 turns it is no better go back 4 as the starloks have popped and you have one plate dragging.
Lemme know how you get on, pm me if you like
Cheers J.
When hot the plates, driven, pressure and intermediate friction plate/centre plate/lifting plate, depending where you’re from determines the name, all expand and the whole thing locks into drive through. I had it happen in the Tuscan, although this is a triple plate and not the normal AP and all I could do was park up and wait. The AP in the Tivs has a lot of mass in the pressure and intermediate friction plate and this expansion tends to happen more slowly but it also means it takes longer to cool down so for most situations it is fine unless you really cook it up. What does seem likely is a common problem with the set of springs that are meant to keep the driven plates away from the pressure plate/flywheel/intermediate friction plate hence we have a set up that doesn’t really cut it. This is restricted or controlled by the infamous starlok washers that usually fall off when they snap meaning the springs are not controlled so one plate drags most of the time the clutch is disengaged. The stroke needs to kept as tight as possible otherwise over stroking will break the fingers, most mechanics know this and tend to lay off the travel a bit, which is fine but it means as the plates wear you may need to travel the bearing a bit further, we are only talking an extra 2mm odd wear from new to old on the plates and as the starting and finishing position of a stroke should alter together, give or take as the angle of the finger shifts, you don’t need to add much so wind the stop in a turn at a time and see what you get. If you go too far you will break fingers and then you’re up s..t creak so if after 4 turns it is no better go back 4 as the starloks have popped and you have one plate dragging.
Lemme know how you get on, pm me if you like
Cheers J.
MOM said:
Thanks for that, still trying to work it all out.
As i said all new & less than 400 miles on it.
Wouldn't it be stiff to put into gearif it was clutch drag ?
Some old fashioned diagnosis advice.As i said all new & less than 400 miles on it.
Wouldn't it be stiff to put into gearif it was clutch drag ?
Look at what you've done in between it being ok and the point at it becoming a problem. I know you say it was checked when the problem started, did the people who checked it drop the box to take a peek inside?
MOM said:
Dont think they dropped the box. Test drive to try & replicate.
Does have to be thoroughly hot for it to happen.
Need to see the inside to see what's gone wrong or not been set-up correctly - IMO.Does have to be thoroughly hot for it to happen.
These shouldn't be difiicult symptoms for someone to diagnose if they are familiar with T cars or later V8s.
MOM said:
yes agree. They are a local tvr specialist & i have been very happy with them but not happy with this. Am going to have to have a clear but in depth chat. Wish id done it earlier just havent had the time.
Ideally want to be there when it's opened up
Hope it all gets resolved without impacting your pocket Mark Ideally want to be there when it's opened up
I've got a similar problem with my Tamora
When cold I can change gear fine but after driving for a short while 10-15 mins it starts to get stiff then very difficult to engage any gear.
I've bought a new master cylinder which I'm in the middle of replacing this weekend as I noticed the old one was slightly wet around the rod so I hoping this is failing, time will tell.
When cold I can change gear fine but after driving for a short while 10-15 mins it starts to get stiff then very difficult to engage any gear.
I've bought a new master cylinder which I'm in the middle of replacing this weekend as I noticed the old one was slightly wet around the rod so I hoping this is failing, time will tell.
Gassing Station | Tamora, T350 & Sagaris | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff