Sagaris Project returns to the UK
Discussion
If it is similar to the older Griffiths and Chimaeras then after unbolting it you need to twist it through 90° in one direction to remove it. They do not drop straight out.
I have never removde the prop shaft on a sag but if TVR still used the same bolts at the diff flange, they are 9/16 not 15mm
I have never removde the prop shaft on a sag but if TVR still used the same bolts at the diff flange, they are 9/16 not 15mm
Thanks guys the chassis is just about stripped now. Just the diff and a few bits and bats. Engine is laying on a small dolly and gearbox just held up with wood. One engine mounting was completely free of its rubber and the same for one gearbox mount. A few more bolts were seized in place so had to be cut off but no major dramas. Chassis will just lift over the engine now. Not sure why the pictures on its side and can’t seem to get it right way round.
Chris, when rebuilding it have you considered using low strength threadlocker rather than copperslip? It keeps the threads dry and stops any form of corrosion.
I gave up using coperslip for protecting threads a long time ago when I realised that everytime I remove caliper bolts for the first time on a vehicle there is no corrosion on the threads.
I do have some very sticky weatherproof grease that I apply to any exposed threads once parts are assembled, I never have problems taking things apart a second time.
I gave up using coperslip for protecting threads a long time ago when I realised that everytime I remove caliper bolts for the first time on a vehicle there is no corrosion on the threads.
I do have some very sticky weatherproof grease that I apply to any exposed threads once parts are assembled, I never have problems taking things apart a second time.
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Chassis fully stripped down and off to RT for its outrigger sorting.
Engine cleaned up a bit ready to go back in.
I need a little help with the steering rack. When I pulled off the passenger boot off it was full of fluid so I presume the seal has gone. It was the passenger side that was leaking so pretty sure it’s not related to the accident. I removed the steering arm and the plastic spacer which reveals a circlip which I also removed revealing a seal located behind a spacer/washer. It looks a bit tricky to get out. Has anyone done this? Any tips or suggestions appreciated.
Chris
Chassis fully stripped down and off to RT for its outrigger sorting.
Engine cleaned up a bit ready to go back in.
I need a little help with the steering rack. When I pulled off the passenger boot off it was full of fluid so I presume the seal has gone. It was the passenger side that was leaking so pretty sure it’s not related to the accident. I removed the steering arm and the plastic spacer which reveals a circlip which I also removed revealing a seal located behind a spacer/washer. It looks a bit tricky to get out. Has anyone done this? Any tips or suggestions appreciated.
Chris
Well not much has been going on at the moment as the chassis is still away and won’t be back for at least a couple of weeks. So just been gathering everything ready for the rebuild. Today I decided to check the Valve clearances so whipped of the rocker cover all the inlets were within tolerance clearances of between 5 and 6 thou and all the exhaust were out, they were between 14 and 16 thou So had to re-shim them all. A fiddly little job even with the engine out. All done now and all exhaust are now between 10 and 11 thou
Well it seems like an age ago that the chassis went away for the outrigger repairing but got it back a couple of weeks ago and dropped it of at my local powder coaters and picked it up today. Must say the job Richard has done at RT is second to none it’s now basically a brand new chassis. The powder coating is also immaculate and now having a Zinc primer will it will outlast me. All wishbones and roll bars were also blasted zinc primed and powder coated so the rebuild can now start. Looking forward to this part of the project.
Edited by chris52 on Monday 13th May 20:48
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