Sagaris A/C - You've got be joking TVR
Discussion
Not quite happy with mine, it blows cool air not cold. Had it gassed up in March so the system is o.k. I was told my car has a panel missing in the nose cone to separate the air intake from hot engine air, I still have not verified this. This seems to make sense though because when on the move the air is cooler, when stopped the air is hotter. Anybody tell me if there is such a panel in the nose cone?
Andy11 said:
Not quite happy with mine, it blows cool air not cold. Had it gassed up in March so the system is o.k. I was told my car has a panel missing in the nose cone to separate the air intake from hot engine air, I still have not verified this. This seems to make sense though because when on the move the air is cooler, when stopped the air is hotter. Anybody tell me if there is such a panel in the nose cone?
Sounds like mine used to be - the dealer never did get it to work properly!I must be lucky this time round. On my 350 it was hard to tell whether it was working or not, but on the Sag it is really icy. One criticism is that when you then turn it off it continues to blow freezing cold for ages afterwards, raising the question of whether it really turns off without an engine restart. But then again you can just close the vent. In summary I reckon it's random from car to car.
Im afraid it is pretty random.
I must admit, even when working fine I never found the layout to be that good anyway. Er, I think its *one of those things* and comes from an inherently, er, how does one put this...less than excellent design. Im sure you could throw a cpl of hundred quid at somebody to sort it all out once they had a solution, but Im not sure that enough ppl would do that to make it worthwhile developing said solution in the first place. I just put up with it when I had it!
I must admit, even when working fine I never found the layout to be that good anyway. Er, I think its *one of those things* and comes from an inherently, er, how does one put this...less than excellent design. Im sure you could throw a cpl of hundred quid at somebody to sort it all out once they had a solution, but Im not sure that enough ppl would do that to make it worthwhile developing said solution in the first place. I just put up with it when I had it!
VARLEYHYD said:
Yes its a bit hit and miss; but should be like an ice box and too cold to bear on full chat.
I've done the following with the Sagaris, can't be sure it'll work for others though.
Remove carpet on footwell underside; I ran the aircon fan and found that ther was a great big gap between the bulkhead and the air duct that goes to the dash, i sealed the up with some expaning neoprene sponge cord. This improved the air flow to the drivers vent loads.
I further improved this by taking out the glove box and sealing it better and also creating a barrier with aluminium foil tape betwen the hot upper dash and the lower to reduce stop heat transfer. The air duct is the lower dash is for the cold.( I also insulated the gearbox/prop tunnel to stop heat transfer to the cabin whilst changing the reverse switch)
When cold and the engine and aircon is not running all the sensors are about the same temperature; The hot air and cold air sensors were dangling close together from the loom, (you can find out which is which through the pod and un plugging etc- factory setting maybe?)
I drilled a hole and fitted the cold air sensor direct into the air duct and taped the hot one to sense the cabin air temp.
The ambient is the one on the o/s of the rad that pokes through to the splitter, and gets silly readings as the car slows in heat(and also wind chill) you can improve this by using a nylon nut (rather than steel) and a fibre insulating washer.
It worked for me hope this is of use to someone
Good work I've done the following with the Sagaris, can't be sure it'll work for others though.
Remove carpet on footwell underside; I ran the aircon fan and found that ther was a great big gap between the bulkhead and the air duct that goes to the dash, i sealed the up with some expaning neoprene sponge cord. This improved the air flow to the drivers vent loads.
I further improved this by taking out the glove box and sealing it better and also creating a barrier with aluminium foil tape betwen the hot upper dash and the lower to reduce stop heat transfer. The air duct is the lower dash is for the cold.( I also insulated the gearbox/prop tunnel to stop heat transfer to the cabin whilst changing the reverse switch)
When cold and the engine and aircon is not running all the sensors are about the same temperature; The hot air and cold air sensors were dangling close together from the loom, (you can find out which is which through the pod and un plugging etc- factory setting maybe?)
I drilled a hole and fitted the cold air sensor direct into the air duct and taped the hot one to sense the cabin air temp.
The ambient is the one on the o/s of the rad that pokes through to the splitter, and gets silly readings as the car slows in heat(and also wind chill) you can improve this by using a nylon nut (rather than steel) and a fibre insulating washer.
It worked for me hope this is of use to someone
The heat soak from the gearbox/prop tunnel I found to be a right pain! We sorted that by fitting a ceramic break for the gearstick, so no more heat transfer (conduction) through the gearstick. TVR fitted extra rubber seals around the base of the stick and in the tunnel to try and stop heatsoak on some cars.
Mine wouldnt work at all, then all of a sudden it does. The compressor wasnt cutting in, not sure why, but all's well at the moment. My glove box is like a fridge when its on, and yet it still manages to keep the car very cool. Must put a few beers in the box for the next West Mids run.
On the T350, inlet air is taken in via a duct that runs along the top (inside) of the left (nearside) wing. The problem is the front of the duct takes air from under the headlight, but there is no panel stopping hot when stationary rising off the radiator (and engine to a lesser effect) from being drawn into the duct. This explains why folks say the air-con is less effective when stationary - it's having to cool progressively hotter air getting drawn in.
I had heard Gatwick TVR had developed a panel to close off the gap between the inner wing and headlight, but don't know whether this was a factory mod or not and don't know what's happened to this since their demise. The glitch is, any panel fitted needs to be removable for headlight adjustment.
As regards heat soak from the central tunnel, based on a suggestion by the good Reverend
, I have insulated the central tunnel using fire blanket material, duct taped round the edges to seal it. Definitely reduced in-cabin temps.
Darren
I had heard Gatwick TVR had developed a panel to close off the gap between the inner wing and headlight, but don't know whether this was a factory mod or not and don't know what's happened to this since their demise. The glitch is, any panel fitted needs to be removable for headlight adjustment.
As regards heat soak from the central tunnel, based on a suggestion by the good Reverend
, I have insulated the central tunnel using fire blanket material, duct taped round the edges to seal it. Definitely reduced in-cabin temps. Darren
tvrvenom said:
Mine works a treat,i keep my drinks and sandwich on a long drive in the glove box...it chills them down very well. Like wise not great in traffic,but otherwise it does the job.
Indeed, an ideal feature. Just a shame the wedding tackle can't quite reach.Aircon on mine is OK but I have a black car and if the general temp is much over 25 it begins to struggle unless on the open road. If it's spent the day sitting outside in the sun then forget about it.
So there is a panel! Could this be all that's wrong then or is there something else not quite right. There is also some kind of thermostat in the passenger footwell, is this the stat for the air con? If so where does the copper tube need to be? (can't remember the technical name for it)
VARLEYHYD said:
DJC said:
Good work
The heat soak from the gearbox/prop tunnel I found to be a right pain! We sorted that by fitting a ceramic break for the gearstick, so no more heat transfer (conduction) through the gearstick. TVR fitted extra rubber seals around the base of the stick and in the tunnel to try and stop heatsoak on some cars.
Any ideas to where to get at ceramic heat break , or should i make one?The heat soak from the gearbox/prop tunnel I found to be a right pain! We sorted that by fitting a ceramic break for the gearstick, so no more heat transfer (conduction) through the gearstick. TVR fitted extra rubber seals around the base of the stick and in the tunnel to try and stop heatsoak on some cars.
DJC said:
VARLEYHYD said:
DJC said:
Good work
The heat soak from the gearbox/prop tunnel I found to be a right pain! We sorted that by fitting a ceramic break for the gearstick, so no more heat transfer (conduction) through the gearstick. TVR fitted extra rubber seals around the base of the stick and in the tunnel to try and stop heatsoak on some cars.
Any ideas to where to get at ceramic heat break , or should i make one?The heat soak from the gearbox/prop tunnel I found to be a right pain! We sorted that by fitting a ceramic break for the gearstick, so no more heat transfer (conduction) through the gearstick. TVR fitted extra rubber seals around the base of the stick and in the tunnel to try and stop heatsoak on some cars.
Targarama said:
DJC said:
VARLEYHYD said:
DJC said:
Good work
The heat soak from the gearbox/prop tunnel I found to be a right pain! We sorted that by fitting a ceramic break for the gearstick, so no more heat transfer (conduction) through the gearstick. TVR fitted extra rubber seals around the base of the stick and in the tunnel to try and stop heatsoak on some cars.
Any ideas to where to get at ceramic heat break , or should i make one?The heat soak from the gearbox/prop tunnel I found to be a right pain! We sorted that by fitting a ceramic break for the gearstick, so no more heat transfer (conduction) through the gearstick. TVR fitted extra rubber seals around the base of the stick and in the tunnel to try and stop heatsoak on some cars.
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