Help - Window button stuck! (T350)
Discussion
I was washing the car this morning and when I went to put up the passenger side window I noticed that after it had gone up that the button (on the dash) was stuck in and kept trying to keep putting the window up (even though it is already closed).
It seems like the little plastic bit around the button (that illuminates) is stuck and is holding the button pressed all of the time, and no matter what I seem to do it just results in me pushing the button in further and getting it more stuck!!!
Any ideas - I guess that very slowly this will start to drain the battery and i'm at my parents currently without my trickle charger!
It seems like the little plastic bit around the button (that illuminates) is stuck and is holding the button pressed all of the time, and no matter what I seem to do it just results in me pushing the button in further and getting it more stuck!!!
Any ideas - I guess that very slowly this will start to drain the battery and i'm at my parents currently without my trickle charger!
Been there, done that - sounds like you have the same problem that I did...
Remove the stereo. Behind the stereo are a couple of nuts which you need to remove - I think that they're 8mm - a long reach nut-spinner makes this much easier but you can do it with a regular spanner and a lot of swearing.
Once loosened, the whole eliptical section that houses both the stereo and window controls can be removed carefully (but with a fair amount of force) - watch out for the ribbon cables connecting the window buttons to the main wiring loom.
It is then simple to remove each of the button assemblies individually and then carefully dismantle them to get the the bits that you need.
The issue I had was with the driver's side. I have heard that you can get the passenger side button assy out by removing the glovebox as you can get the necessary access from the side. In retrospect (and having typed all of the above), I would look at that option first as it is a lot easier to remove / refit the glovebox than it is the get the stereo 'pod' out and back in.
Good luck!
Mark
Remove the stereo. Behind the stereo are a couple of nuts which you need to remove - I think that they're 8mm - a long reach nut-spinner makes this much easier but you can do it with a regular spanner and a lot of swearing.
Once loosened, the whole eliptical section that houses both the stereo and window controls can be removed carefully (but with a fair amount of force) - watch out for the ribbon cables connecting the window buttons to the main wiring loom.
It is then simple to remove each of the button assemblies individually and then carefully dismantle them to get the the bits that you need.
The issue I had was with the driver's side. I have heard that you can get the passenger side button assy out by removing the glovebox as you can get the necessary access from the side. In retrospect (and having typed all of the above), I would look at that option first as it is a lot easier to remove / refit the glovebox than it is the get the stereo 'pod' out and back in.
Good luck!
Mark
Hi, had a similar problem with my Tamora window. It stuck down and the motor was constantly trying to pull it down further. The problem wasn't actually the button on the dash but the micro switch behind it.
I removed the button assembly (by taking out the glove box and removing the 3 small nuts and ribbon cable- don't know if it's the same on the 350)and removed the pcb from the alloy switch mount. There are 5 or so micro switches on the pcb and they should give an audible 'click' when pressed. The one for the down button on mine didn't and had stuck in the 'power on' position.
I sent the pcb to a very helpful guy near Blackpool who fitted a new micro switch and sent me a spare just in case and have had no problems since. He also told me how to get the window up by using a small wire in the 10th hole of the ribbon cable connector and connecting this wire to the 5th (i think) hole in order to complete the circuit. It at least let me have my window up so that I could use the car.
Hope this is of help to you.
Regards
Davie
I removed the button assembly (by taking out the glove box and removing the 3 small nuts and ribbon cable- don't know if it's the same on the 350)and removed the pcb from the alloy switch mount. There are 5 or so micro switches on the pcb and they should give an audible 'click' when pressed. The one for the down button on mine didn't and had stuck in the 'power on' position.
I sent the pcb to a very helpful guy near Blackpool who fitted a new micro switch and sent me a spare just in case and have had no problems since. He also told me how to get the window up by using a small wire in the 10th hole of the ribbon cable connector and connecting this wire to the 5th (i think) hole in order to complete the circuit. It at least let me have my window up so that I could use the car.
Hope this is of help to you.
Regards
Davie
stub101 said:
Really appreciate the help.
No worries Stu - it's always nice to be able to help out in some small way given the help and advice that others have often given me!Did you manage to get shot of that exhaust in the end? It's looking like a good bet for me at the moment... Did ACT give you any indication what the likely dB level was with decats?
darkmark07 said:
Did you manage to get shot of that exhaust in the end? It's looking like a good bet for me at the moment... Did ACT give you any indication what the likely dB level was with decats?
I havent had chance to do anything about the exhaust tbh because I have just got back from a 3000 mile trip round Europe in the T350 which was great fun (small write-up on PH to follow shortly)JP didnt try mine with decats but with cats its 95db at 3000rpm and I imagine the decats will raise this quite a bit. Above 4000rpm it will be very loud cos it certainly is now!
Sounds like fun - without wishing to preempt the write-up where did you go?
Regarding the exhaust: whereabouts are you based? Was wondering whether we could find a convenient specialist mid-way and arrange a simultaneous swap to minimise installation costs / hassle on both sides. Could look to get the JP box for you and bring it along if you wish...
Can't do much until mid- late-September from my side - PM me if you think the above might work...
Cheers,
Mark
Regarding the exhaust: whereabouts are you based? Was wondering whether we could find a convenient specialist mid-way and arrange a simultaneous swap to minimise installation costs / hassle on both sides. Could look to get the JP box for you and bring it along if you wish...
Can't do much until mid- late-September from my side - PM me if you think the above might work...
Cheers,
Mark
In a short breath I went hunting the best mountain passes in the alps and ended up doing France, Belgium, Germany, Switzerland, Italy, Switzerland (again), Italy (again), and then back up through France and home to Leeds.
The word AMAZING does not even come close! These cars are made for driving and not sitting in garages...
Will drop you a PM shortly
The word AMAZING does not even come close! These cars are made for driving and not sitting in garages...
Will drop you a PM shortly
Does anyone have any pictures of the workings of these switchpacks? I'm trying to make a pair from scratch (can't find any second hand) and have got the aluminium surrounds and can get the buttons, but I'm not exactly sure what goes behind them... Any help (or a pair of second hand ones) would be very much appreciated.
Thank you very much indeed, these are very very helpful and should hopefully be enough for me to recreate them. So just the one illumination LED per button? I don't suppose you know what the clear plastic surround looks like? In an ideal world I'd love to get the dimensions of this and the push switch but I suppose I could do a bit of guess work and some trial and error.
There are two LEDs, on opposite sides. The originals were rectangular side emitting LEDs. The switch is probably an Alps component. I had mine apart because some of the LEDs had failed, some had never worked because the tracks were broken, and one just wasn't wired in, i.e. no wire went to the connector! I think I drew a circuit diagram somewhere if that is of any use. I altered the wiring so they come on with the ignition. Seems a shame not to show off all the hard design work.
Forgive the dodgy drawing but here is my memory of the assembly:
Forgive the dodgy drawing but here is my memory of the assembly:
Thanks non-linear for the non-linear line drawing 
That's great information, if you have a wiring diagram to start from that would be great but it looks simple enough. I guess the most important part is going to be the design of the light pipe around the button and getting the dimensions right so it works smoothly. That and getting the PCB positioning bang on.
For interest, I have the lights and Air con switchpacks and have reverse engineered them into a schematic; might be of use to someone...
That's great information, if you have a wiring diagram to start from that would be great but it looks simple enough. I guess the most important part is going to be the design of the light pipe around the button and getting the dimensions right so it works smoothly. That and getting the PCB positioning bang on.
For interest, I have the lights and Air con switchpacks and have reverse engineered them into a schematic; might be of use to someone...
It's been a couple of years since I looked at it but on my car (a 2004 T350) at least, the window button illumination came on with the lights, the door release button illumination is controlled by the door ECU and on my car never came on. The illumination on the small button never came on, because it wasn't wired up. I changed it so all the buttons illuminate when the ignition is on.
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