DB9 Park Brake

[Amaus]

So...

Never had a problem disengaging the park brake.

Then, get new pads and discs at AM mechanics.

Car is fine. Park it. Engage park brake. Leave it. Start it the following day.

I cannot disengage the park brake. I lift it, press the button and feel it disengage, then slowly push it down, button depressed. Red light still on dash.

I pull it back up and feel/hear the clicks. I lift it again. press the button and feel it disengage as i drop it down. Red light still on.

Seriously, if I was the hulk I'd toss the whole fking thing.

Is there an easy fix to this thing or do I just get AM to fix it?

I am so over this bullst.

Matt.

[bullet7]

As a matter of interest, did you try to move the car with the light still on? Had a similar thing not long after replacing rear pads and moving the car released it. Not saying yours will be the same, but may be worth a try.

[DB531]

Had a similar situation after replacing a full set of discs and pads.

The hand brake leaver actuates a micro switch. The on off is all down to the H/B cable adjustment. It would seem that the H/B cable just needs slacking off a bit, also check the trim is clear of the H/B.

See description below.

Easer to do on a lift but it can be done without.

1. Ensure the handbrake lever is fully released.
2. Release the handbrake cable lock nuts and screw the
adjustment fully in.
3. Screw the adjustment ‘out’ or ‘in’ on each caliper, in
equal amounts, to obtain a rise 4 clicks on the
handbrake lever.
4. Check the functionality of the handbrake system:
4.1 When handbrake lever is in the fully down position
(handbrake released), the brake warning light should
be extinguished.
If the brake warning light does not extinguish, adjust
the handbrake cable until correct function of brake
warning light occurs.
4.2 Check the handbrake pads for binding by driving the
vehicle.
If the pads are binding the handbrake cable adjusters
are over adjusted. Slacken the adjusters as necessary,
then check brake warning light functionality

This is assuming that all the necessary cleaning and lubricating of the H/B caliper was carried out plus the pistons were retracted correctly.

Edited by DB531 on Saturday 24th August 13:21

[gaussianmist]

Makes you think that if you have an automatic, that it might be better to have NEVER engaged the parking brake.

[paulrog1]

I never use the hand brake.

[Amaus]

Thanks so much for the replies.

It is very much appreciated.

Matt.

[Wobbly]

paulrog1 said:

I never use the hand brake.

Me too.

[DB531]

The merits of using or not using the hand brake are for a whole different discussion, but a side effect of not using it can be, that the pads seize up in the calliper as I found out.

I suppose I should not have been surprised as it was mentioned in passing by a member of the service department at the time of purchase "no one uses the HB" on an auto.

I do appreciate that many owners of a DB9 will probably not be bothered as to what goes on under the floor of their car let alone get the spanners out but it appears non use of the H/B just stores up extra work for someone = extra cost.

One of the first jobs that would be on the future agenda for the DB9 would be to replace the discs and pads. Not a big deal ! well, it turned out to be a big deal.

I would mention that the vehicle came with full AMMDS and had been subject to the AM Timeless 140 odd point check.

Prior to starting work on the vehicle and to keep the service history up to date it was main dealer serviced.

Back to the plot First setback was the pad securing pins (all wheels) needed workshop attention and not the normal tap out usually associated with this type of calliper.

The biggest annoyance was the very little used H/B pads were seized with rust in the H/B calliper the only way to remove them was by carefully using a hammer and drift to remove them. I suppose it was inevitable that some irreparable damage would occur to the pads.

Off to the dealer, parts obtained fortunately all in stock.

In the great scheme of thing the H/B pads are in Aston terms relatively inexpensive (Jaguar part).

Whilst at the dealer I did enquire as to how the seized pads did not show up during the service .......... H/B is only checked for function not efficiency.

Needless to say all was cleaned up and the new pads prior to fitting were lubricated with a bit of copper slip and no further problems have been experienced.

I am of the I do use the H/B camp but not in the garage.

[8Tech]

As stated above, the procedure for installing the rear pads involves correctly adjusting the handbrake cables. I suspect your AM mechanics just pushed the pistons back in and replaced the pads only.

[Amaus]

thanks guys.

Took it to a local auto tune and they found that once depressed the brake handle would not press hard enough onto the button. He showed me when he pressed his thumb on the lever the light went out.

In the end he just disconnected the button.

cheers,

Matt.

[8Tech]

That solution would suggest there is residual tension in the handbrake cable(s) not allowing the lever to fully lower. This could very easily result in the binding of the handbrake pads, causing discs and pads to overheat.

I really dont see that disconnecting a warning light rather than solving the problem is the best way to rectify this issue.

Would you disconnect the oil light because you are low on engine oil or brake fluid rather than top them up?

I hope not!