V8v rear subframe
Discussion
I'm looking into doing this to my DB9. I was just going to wire brush it down then paint with hammerite.
Because im not removing the subframe it would be difficult to spray the frame without getting the paint on other components.
Are there better rust inhibitor paints (using a brush) to use other than hammerite??
Because im not removing the subframe it would be difficult to spray the frame without getting the paint on other components.
Are there better rust inhibitor paints (using a brush) to use other than hammerite??
Just for context a recent picture taken from the Facebook group that shows a heavily corroded rear subframe:
I have no idea how to restore this but I seem to remember powder coating was mentioned. Sorry, OP, not what you had asked for, I know.
After restoring or on a new car I would put on Bilt Hamber dynax UC for best visual appeal (= perfectly clear thin wax coat) when heavy corrosion protection is not needed. For winter cars there are other products in the dynax range that will probably give better protection at the price of looking more or less rust brown like so many anti-corrosion products.
Here a mixture of Dr. Wack S 100 Korrosionsschutz on the suspension parts and additional dynax UC on the subframe parts that I could reach without taking the rear undertray off:
I have no idea how to restore this but I seem to remember powder coating was mentioned. Sorry, OP, not what you had asked for, I know.
After restoring or on a new car I would put on Bilt Hamber dynax UC for best visual appeal (= perfectly clear thin wax coat) when heavy corrosion protection is not needed. For winter cars there are other products in the dynax range that will probably give better protection at the price of looking more or less rust brown like so many anti-corrosion products.
Here a mixture of Dr. Wack S 100 Korrosionsschutz on the suspension parts and additional dynax UC on the subframe parts that I could reach without taking the rear undertray off:
paulrog1 said:
I'm looking into doing this to my DB9. I was just going to wire brush it down then paint with hammerite.
Because im not removing the subframe it would be difficult to spray the frame without getting the paint on other components.
Are there better rust inhibitor paints (using a brush) to use other than hammerite??
Only use hammerite if you don't mind the rust developing underneath until it fallsoff as a complete layer of paint (I and others I know have experienced this) because hammerite if very brittle. Why would you want to spray it? Application with a brush gives a much thicker layer = more protection. Because im not removing the subframe it would be difficult to spray the frame without getting the paint on other components.
Are there better rust inhibitor paints (using a brush) to use other than hammerite??
Prep can be either rust remover (various fluids to remove to bare metal) or rust converter (phosphoric acid containing fluids such as Kurust) which convert the rust (iron oxide) to a dark blue/black iron phosphate. Lots of opinions on which are best. Subsequent painting can be simple red oxide primer, undercoat and enamel, or use the more expensive (better?) POR 15 or similar paints.
My subframe isn't half as bad as the photo above, just some rust in some areas.
Can you recommend a rust convertor as obviously i dont want it to get any worse?
The black paint using a brush, just use any enamel black paint?
The job is gunna get done over the summer so I've got plenty of time to get all the required materials.
Can you recommend a rust convertor as obviously i dont want it to get any worse?
The black paint using a brush, just use any enamel black paint?
The job is gunna get done over the summer so I've got plenty of time to get all the required materials.
Looking at the photos above, the exhaust goes pretty close to the subframe, so it's worth going into some detail (maybe with paint manufacturers) regarding heat durability, coefficient of expansion etc). the POR15 may well be suitable. The key with most paints (no pun intended) is to get a good key to the base metal (maybe even use etch primer) followed by undercoat and topcoat which are suitable for the conditions. I've used dulux household gloss black paint on chassis and suspension parts (not near heat though) and it's still good after 20 years. As for rust converters, I've found kurust to be good. For rust remover, the hammerite rust remover jelly is good (if they still sell it?), but I reiterate that I don't rate their paint.
This website provides lots of useful information for the maintenance work needed.
https://www.frost.co.uk/how-do-i-use-por-15-rust-p...
https://www.frost.co.uk/how-do-i-use-por-15-rust-p...
Sorry to resurrect an older thread.
I'm going to tackle the rear subframe of my V8V soon - (in situ - hopefully up on a ramp lol)
Which of the POR15 products should be used?
POR15 - Rust Remover THEN
POR15 - Rust Preventative Paint etc
Or just use Rust Preventative Paint directly on the rusty areas? (The article suggests this i think...?)
https://www.frost.co.uk/how-do-i-use-por-15-rust-p...
The Frost link is great - but there seem to be a multitude of POR products
EDIT - there is also a 'high temp' version of the paint (up to 700 degrees... seems overkill though unless the proximity to the exhaust will get parts of the subframe very hot?)
I'm going to tackle the rear subframe of my V8V soon - (in situ - hopefully up on a ramp lol)
Which of the POR15 products should be used?
POR15 - Rust Remover THEN
POR15 - Rust Preventative Paint etc
Or just use Rust Preventative Paint directly on the rusty areas? (The article suggests this i think...?)
https://www.frost.co.uk/how-do-i-use-por-15-rust-p...
The Frost link is great - but there seem to be a multitude of POR products
EDIT - there is also a 'high temp' version of the paint (up to 700 degrees... seems overkill though unless the proximity to the exhaust will get parts of the subframe very hot?)
Edited by andyvvc on Tuesday 28th January 14:40
Just spent a few days and late nights removing the under trays on my Vanquish to clean up the underside in particular the rear sub frame.
Car is 3 years old and only 9,000 miles but the rear sub frame was showing the start of rust around all of the welded areas.
Looks like the only protection from AM is a thin lacquer coat over the sub frame not good.
Rubbed down in situ with wire brushes and drill etc, repainted in Hammerite paint with rust preventer and all of the sub frame, front suspension, rear suspension, complete underside covered in Bilt Hamber Dynax UC 50.
Car was jacked up at front then rear to get to all of the bits, the Dynax is cracking stuff the whole garage is now rustproofed.
Also gave the three under trays a bit of a clean with some Brillo and Solvol Autosol.
Car is 3 years old and only 9,000 miles but the rear sub frame was showing the start of rust around all of the welded areas.
Looks like the only protection from AM is a thin lacquer coat over the sub frame not good.
Rubbed down in situ with wire brushes and drill etc, repainted in Hammerite paint with rust preventer and all of the sub frame, front suspension, rear suspension, complete underside covered in Bilt Hamber Dynax UC 50.
Car was jacked up at front then rear to get to all of the bits, the Dynax is cracking stuff the whole garage is now rustproofed.
Also gave the three under trays a bit of a clean with some Brillo and Solvol Autosol.
I was originally going to do it in situ, however in a similar vein to the corroded wing mirrors, there’s so much going on that you can’t see, that to not remove and do thoroughly is just putting a sticking plaster on the problem.
Rust will creep through from unseen areas and you’ll be thinking you sorted it all out.
Rust will creep through from unseen areas and you’ll be thinking you sorted it all out.
At this age (2005 on), most rust will be superficial, unless of course you live near the sea.
If you’re a buyer don’t get too stressed about a bit of light rust. The subframe is heavyweight steel, but once rust sets in, it’s not going away on its own.
If you’re going to keep the car for many years, as I am, then it’s good preventative maintenance to get potential issues sorted sooner rather than later, that way you have peace of mind.
If you’re a buyer don’t get too stressed about a bit of light rust. The subframe is heavyweight steel, but once rust sets in, it’s not going away on its own.
If you’re going to keep the car for many years, as I am, then it’s good preventative maintenance to get potential issues sorted sooner rather than later, that way you have peace of mind.
alan powley said:
ACF-50 is the best you can buy after cleaning it up.
I used Dr. Wack S 100 Korrosionsschutz (UK: S-Doc 100) after I had seen the corrosion protectant comparison on YouTube:
S 100 smells, looks and feels as pleasant as WD40 and does not have this strange oyster tinge like ACF-50.
But the real surprise to me was Bilt Hamber dynax UC. Perfectly clear wax-based alternative as an aerosol - not easy to find.
Edited by Emilio Largo on Saturday 1st February 01:22
Bilt Hamber UC 50 can be purchased direct from Bilt Hamber in the UK more cost effectively than alternative suppliers.
Comes with connectors on the top so that you can spray inside the tubular sub frame.
UC 50 also contains a corrosion inhibitor and when fully dry is virtually transparent, i used 4 x 750ml cans to do all of the underside and rear sub frame with 3 layers.
It sprays out in a very fine mist and believe me will cover the whole car as it gets carried in the air, good hot soapy wash soon sorted this though.
Comes with connectors on the top so that you can spray inside the tubular sub frame.
UC 50 also contains a corrosion inhibitor and when fully dry is virtually transparent, i used 4 x 750ml cans to do all of the underside and rear sub frame with 3 layers.
It sprays out in a very fine mist and believe me will cover the whole car as it gets carried in the air, good hot soapy wash soon sorted this though.
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