V8v rear subframe
Discussion
I left the gearbox etc. in situ and just dropped it down a bit to allow the top of the frame to go over. Was contemplating removal, but it’s a heavy bvgger.
As I was removing it on my own one thing I did which helped enormously when removing the subframe as to support the rear of the frame with bungee cords attached to the rear silencer hanger. This took most of the weight and allowed me to move the subframe forward and back to aid removal.
I also got a bit stuck with the brake line clips that attach to the subframe fouling on the transaxle, so popped those off.
It’s all eminently do able, time and patience are needed.
Probably the biggest headache was undoing the electrical block connectors under the driver’s seat. They’re all different and have secret little tabs and things that no one wants you to know about. Took about 30 mins at a funny angle getting those undone. Re-doing is probably 30s.
The reverse switch block connector had me stumped for a few minutes. Couldn’t find the secret tab and in the end realised it just pulled apart.
As for a full write up, let me get all the bits back, get it assembled and see how things look from there. Got lots of pics.
If anyone is going to attempt it themselves make sure you have a decent set of tools and be prepared for some bruised knuckles, swearing and head scratching along the way.
None of it in isolation is difficult, it’s just that it all seems a bit overwhelming when you look at it as a full project.
Cheers
Jonny
As I was removing it on my own one thing I did which helped enormously when removing the subframe as to support the rear of the frame with bungee cords attached to the rear silencer hanger. This took most of the weight and allowed me to move the subframe forward and back to aid removal.
I also got a bit stuck with the brake line clips that attach to the subframe fouling on the transaxle, so popped those off.
It’s all eminently do able, time and patience are needed.
Probably the biggest headache was undoing the electrical block connectors under the driver’s seat. They’re all different and have secret little tabs and things that no one wants you to know about. Took about 30 mins at a funny angle getting those undone. Re-doing is probably 30s.
The reverse switch block connector had me stumped for a few minutes. Couldn’t find the secret tab and in the end realised it just pulled apart.
As for a full write up, let me get all the bits back, get it assembled and see how things look from there. Got lots of pics.
If anyone is going to attempt it themselves make sure you have a decent set of tools and be prepared for some bruised knuckles, swearing and head scratching along the way.
None of it in isolation is difficult, it’s just that it all seems a bit overwhelming when you look at it as a full project.
Cheers
Jonny
Edited by JonnyCJ on Wednesday 26th February 13:17
Yep - bumper off, silencer off, drive shafts off.
I did it all on my own and most of it only needs one person. Re-fitting the bumper is the only thing I’m slightly nervous on, so may call in a mate for that.
There’s a lot of wiggling about underneath and that’s where most of the time is lost. Had it been on a 4 post lift rather than axle stands it would have been a much quicker process.
There’s a number of small brackets and things under there which were showing signs of surface rust, as well as many rusty bolts. Luckily in my case they’re all surface rust so easy to clean up and rustproof then either paint or blast and coat.
I’m getting the subframe industrial coated. Much more durable than powder coating and involves a 3 stage process, including a zinc primer coat.
All the suspension arms had to come off so for the sake of £40 I’m having them all vapour blasted to as new condition. I can then ACF them and keep on top of it each year.
Luckily none of my suspension bolts had any corrosion and all had been assembled with white grease when the shocks were replaced a few years ago. You may experience issues with corrosion on these bolts, so be prepared to replace at least the bolts and potentially the wishbones or toe adjustment arm if the corrosion means the bolts won’t come out.
I did it all on my own and most of it only needs one person. Re-fitting the bumper is the only thing I’m slightly nervous on, so may call in a mate for that.
There’s a lot of wiggling about underneath and that’s where most of the time is lost. Had it been on a 4 post lift rather than axle stands it would have been a much quicker process.
There’s a number of small brackets and things under there which were showing signs of surface rust, as well as many rusty bolts. Luckily in my case they’re all surface rust so easy to clean up and rustproof then either paint or blast and coat.
I’m getting the subframe industrial coated. Much more durable than powder coating and involves a 3 stage process, including a zinc primer coat.
All the suspension arms had to come off so for the sake of £40 I’m having them all vapour blasted to as new condition. I can then ACF them and keep on top of it each year.
Luckily none of my suspension bolts had any corrosion and all had been assembled with white grease when the shocks were replaced a few years ago. You may experience issues with corrosion on these bolts, so be prepared to replace at least the bolts and potentially the wishbones or toe adjustment arm if the corrosion means the bolts won’t come out.
So - piccies working again and the bits back from the blasters
Before
After
Also had all the suspension arms etc vapour blasted - they’ve come out better than new and will be given a number of coats of Rust Blocker which apparently is better than ACF50. Dries in a very thin coat and a bit like Waxoyl but a better product.
Subframe box and tube sections given a thorough dosing with Dynax and a 360 degree lance
More to follow as things progress......[url]
|https://thumbsnap.com/nvAdy1oi[/url]
Before
After
Also had all the suspension arms etc vapour blasted - they’ve come out better than new and will be given a number of coats of Rust Blocker which apparently is better than ACF50. Dries in a very thin coat and a bit like Waxoyl but a better product.
Subframe box and tube sections given a thorough dosing with Dynax and a 360 degree lance
More to follow as things progress......[url]
|https://thumbsnap.com/nvAdy1oi[/url]Edited by JonnyCJ on Friday 6th March 17:51
Very much so. There’s no areas that are apparent where the metal has been eaten into.
The job is very much a preventative maintenance one and I’d rather get it done whilst I have the time, energy and motivation.
As BigMig says, no Indy would go to the same amount of trouble to get everything right unless they were being paid handsomely to do it.
The job is very much a preventative maintenance one and I’d rather get it done whilst I have the time, energy and motivation.
As BigMig says, no Indy would go to the same amount of trouble to get everything right unless they were being paid handsomely to do it.
Hunter Steel in North Wales. 25 mins from me so very handy.
£50 to do all the aluminium parts with gentle vapour blasting and £70 for the subframe, cross bracket and hydro mount brackets.
Harry’s your man there - great chap.
https://www.huntersteel.co.uk/scope-of-work/
£50 to do all the aluminium parts with gentle vapour blasting and £70 for the subframe, cross bracket and hydro mount brackets.
Harry’s your man there - great chap.
https://www.huntersteel.co.uk/scope-of-work/
Edited by JonnyCJ on Friday 6th March 20:48
The BH Lance should be long enough although there’s various holes in the sections that you won’t see if the frame is in situ.
The square channel cross bit at the rear for instance, but if you pop off a fir tree clip or two holding the wiring loom you should be able to get in there.
The open tube section at the back goes all the way to the aluminium bushes at the front of the subframe. I don’t think the lance will reach all the way down, so in that case and if you have access to a lift, you can remove the front bolts that go through the aluminium bushes one by one and poke the lance up that way. Make sure that you’re squirting into the tube section though and not the threaded section that the bolt goes into.
I got the blasters to make sure they gave these tubes a good hit with the blasting gun to get out any surface rust lurking in there, but the Dynax should keep that at bay if you’re doing it in situ.
The 360 degree lance is great as it does what it says on the tin and you can be sure every nook and cranny is getting a coating.
Spare lances are £2.95 from BH plus postage if you don’t have one already (I didn’t).
Let us know how you get on.I
The square channel cross bit at the rear for instance, but if you pop off a fir tree clip or two holding the wiring loom you should be able to get in there.
The open tube section at the back goes all the way to the aluminium bushes at the front of the subframe. I don’t think the lance will reach all the way down, so in that case and if you have access to a lift, you can remove the front bolts that go through the aluminium bushes one by one and poke the lance up that way. Make sure that you’re squirting into the tube section though and not the threaded section that the bolt goes into.
I got the blasters to make sure they gave these tubes a good hit with the blasting gun to get out any surface rust lurking in there, but the Dynax should keep that at bay if you’re doing it in situ.
The 360 degree lance is great as it does what it says on the tin and you can be sure every nook and cranny is getting a coating.
Spare lances are £2.95 from BH plus postage if you don’t have one already (I didn’t).
Let us know how you get on.I
Edited by JonnyCJ on Saturday 7th March 07:03
Well - a lots happened since the last update and apologies for those who are self isolating and awaiting more pics.
I’ve had all the nuts bolts and washers either cleaned and painted or bright zinc plated. Nyloc nuts have been replaced with new and then painted properly to prevent future corrosion.
Tonight I decided to bite the bullet and put the subframe back in.
It’s been built up with brake lines, wiring loom and handbrake cables as trying to fit all these with it in situ would be a bit tricky.
Ready to go in...
As this is a one man operation I needed a couple of spare pairs of hands to lift the rear whilst I fed the front over the transaxle. Bungee cords from the camper van came in handy and drink less beer, and these proved perfect, as they not only raised the rear end of the subframe, but also had the elasticity to be able to push the subframe forward and over the transaxle whilst still keeping the rear in the air.
One thing I was concerned about was getting my lovely painted frame scratched as it goes over the transaxle and I therefore wrapped some cloth around the subframe and secured with gaffer tape.
|https://thumbsnap.com/bLTWKTcA[/url]
![](https://thumbsnap.com/sc/FKroYHe3.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="https://thumbsnap.com/bLTWKTcA" Target="_blank" rel="nofollow">[img]https://thumbsnap.com/sc/bLTWKTcA.jpg)
The best way to get the frame in situ was to lie underneath it and lift it up and over the transaxle ina bench press move. Worked really well and rested the front on the transaxle and kicked an axle stand under the rear.
All in now and bolts partially tightened up ready for the next instalment...
I’ve had all the nuts bolts and washers either cleaned and painted or bright zinc plated. Nyloc nuts have been replaced with new and then painted properly to prevent future corrosion.
Tonight I decided to bite the bullet and put the subframe back in.
It’s been built up with brake lines, wiring loom and handbrake cables as trying to fit all these with it in situ would be a bit tricky.
Ready to go in...
As this is a one man operation I needed a couple of spare pairs of hands to lift the rear whilst I fed the front over the transaxle. Bungee cords from the camper van came in handy and drink less beer, and these proved perfect, as they not only raised the rear end of the subframe, but also had the elasticity to be able to push the subframe forward and over the transaxle whilst still keeping the rear in the air.
One thing I was concerned about was getting my lovely painted frame scratched as it goes over the transaxle and I therefore wrapped some cloth around the subframe and secured with gaffer tape.
|https://thumbsnap.com/bLTWKTcA[/url]The best way to get the frame in situ was to lie underneath it and lift it up and over the transaxle ina bench press move. Worked really well and rested the front on the transaxle and kicked an axle stand under the rear.
All in now and bolts partially tightened up ready for the next instalment...
Edited by JonnyCJ on Thursday 19th March 22:33
[url]Edited by JonnyCJ on Thursday 19th March 22:37
Edited by JonnyCJ on Tuesday 31st March 21:52
This has made me (among others) rather nervous, though I'm very glad that the corrosion seen so far seems to be cosmetic -- and not structural (at least not yet). That said, this certainly shouldn't be happening. Since some of the cars showing corrosion are low-mileage cars, and it's not clear/known whether some have had salt exposure, I wanted to get a look at mine. I've had it from new so I know where it's been. It's an '09 with about 12,700 miles. It's a weekend/fun car that I use in nice weather -- it's never seen salt -- and is garaged. However, I live in the humid northeast US near the ocean. By the way, the low-mileage is due to a lack of time, 2 kids, other cars, etc., rather than an effort to keep the miles low. Wish I had more time to use it.
I crawled under it last night to take a look at the subframe. Obviously, I couldn't see it as well as when the car's on a lift, but I got a pretty good look at it. I am relieved to say that the subframe looks brand new, with no evidence of corrosion whatsoever. Hoping that bodes well for its longevity.
Has anyone seen cars that have seen nasty weather and that have subframes that are not showing corrosion?
I crawled under it last night to take a look at the subframe. Obviously, I couldn't see it as well as when the car's on a lift, but I got a pretty good look at it. I am relieved to say that the subframe looks brand new, with no evidence of corrosion whatsoever. Hoping that bodes well for its longevity.
Has anyone seen cars that have seen nasty weather and that have subframes that are not showing corrosion?
I'm in awe of the folks who have removed their own subframes! Bravo!
Mine went to Aston Engineering last week. Had a nice tour of their facility (think 'TARDIS' for classic and modern Aston sales and restorations - its bigger inside than out somehow lol). A very nice setup!
While the car was there i also had the gas struts on the boot replaced, and the rear mesh grills and reverse parking sensor surounds swapped out for replacement parts that they had already got in stock pre-sandblasted and powder coated.
As such the bill was a bit more than i expected - but i have a real problem saying no to "while I'm here..." jobs lol
Subframe looks great now - not to the remove-and-sort-standard. But much better than it did. Should be good for a few years until i review it and either repeat the treatment or maybe go down the removal route.
Feedback (2008 4.3 with 83,000 miles) was that the rust was surface only - no concerns at all from AE about it.
Mine went to Aston Engineering last week. Had a nice tour of their facility (think 'TARDIS' for classic and modern Aston sales and restorations - its bigger inside than out somehow lol). A very nice setup!
While the car was there i also had the gas struts on the boot replaced, and the rear mesh grills and reverse parking sensor surounds swapped out for replacement parts that they had already got in stock pre-sandblasted and powder coated.
As such the bill was a bit more than i expected - but i have a real problem saying no to "while I'm here..." jobs lol
Subframe looks great now - not to the remove-and-sort-standard. But much better than it did. Should be good for a few years until i review it and either repeat the treatment or maybe go down the removal route.
Feedback (2008 4.3 with 83,000 miles) was that the rust was surface only - no concerns at all from AE about it.
Just been out to see the chaps who are sorting out my oil cooler pipes. Keeping the end connections which are fine, but new rubber hose, new crimps, stainless pipe. Should outlast the car.
Pics to follow and if anyone needs a full set of very solid oil cooler standard pipes I have a pair which have been cleaned up and bright zinc plated to pretty much as new.
PM me for a price (cheap !) as I only have the one set, but very worth tucking away if you're taking out the subframe any time soon.
Pics to follow and if anyone needs a full set of very solid oil cooler standard pipes I have a pair which have been cleaned up and bright zinc plated to pretty much as new.
PM me for a price (cheap !) as I only have the one set, but very worth tucking away if you're taking out the subframe any time soon.
Bit more work been going on over the last week - stainless oil cooler pipes installed. The ones coming out of the transaxle have been chemically cleaned and bright zinc plated.
Rear suspension starting to be built up. All original bolts zinc plated with new nuts and bolts where specified.
Taking my time on this, but the rebuild really races ahead with everything nice and clean. Labelling and bagging all the bolts has really helped.
Whilst underneath I also replaced the middle exhaust section rubber hangers and had the brackets powder coated.
Over and out for now - more to follow in due course.
Rear suspension starting to be built up. All original bolts zinc plated with new nuts and bolts where specified.
Taking my time on this, but the rebuild really races ahead with everything nice and clean. Labelling and bagging all the bolts has really helped.
Whilst underneath I also replaced the middle exhaust section rubber hangers and had the brackets powder coated.
Over and out for now - more to follow in due course.
Edited by JonnyCJ on Tuesday 31st March 21:54
Edited by JonnyCJ on Tuesday 31st March 21:55
Edited by JonnyCJ on Tuesday 31st March 21:56
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