V8V rear subframe removal
Discussion
I’m hoping to keep my 2009 4.7 manual for many many years.
One of the things I’m considering, to keep the car in tip top condition, is to remove the rear subframe and then get it either powder coated or plastic coated.
I’ve had a look around, but can’t seem to find any guid to removing the subframe.
Has anyone done this or is there a manual guide ?
Cheers
Jonny
One of the things I’m considering, to keep the car in tip top condition, is to remove the rear subframe and then get it either powder coated or plastic coated.
I’ve had a look around, but can’t seem to find any guid to removing the subframe.
Has anyone done this or is there a manual guide ?
Cheers
Jonny
I'd be interested in this as mine is abit corroded.
My guess is you would probably have to remove the rear suspension, rear diff, exhaust and maybe gearbox and torque tube to be able to remove the rear subframe.
But i havent done this job, it would be good if anyone who has done this would let us know.
Mines a DB9 so not sure on the differences.
My guess is you would probably have to remove the rear suspension, rear diff, exhaust and maybe gearbox and torque tube to be able to remove the rear subframe.
But i havent done this job, it would be good if anyone who has done this would let us know.
Mines a DB9 so not sure on the differences.
That Bamford Rose video is vague regarding the removal. The video is really about using cat A AM approved bodyshops for replacement.
He did say there are 8 bolts which attach it to the chassis though, i do think the rear suspension, brakes, driveshafts and diff will all need to be removed first, which would be a massive job for a home DIY job, but i could be wrong.
This issue will get worse the older the cars are getting. A proper repair is total removal, treating and painting.
He did say there are 8 bolts which attach it to the chassis though, i do think the rear suspension, brakes, driveshafts and diff will all need to be removed first, which would be a massive job for a home DIY job, but i could be wrong.
This issue will get worse the older the cars are getting. A proper repair is total removal, treating and painting.
Edited by paulrog1 on Thursday 23 January 09:27
Rear diff has to come out for a clutch change as far as I'm aware and this is apparently within the scope of a home mechanic with the right tools and plenty of time on their side.
Agree PaulRog - it can only get worse over time, so makes sense to get it done before things deteriorate too far.
Luckily I only have very mild surface rust in a few places at the moment.
Agree PaulRog - it can only get worse over time, so makes sense to get it done before things deteriorate too far.
Luckily I only have very mild surface rust in a few places at the moment.
Edited by JonnyCJ on Thursday 23 January 13:40
Hiya.
I've done this job at home myself and yes it is quite a commitment to get into, mine ended up being off the road for 18months, but that was mainly down to lack of time to work on it.
I’m by no means a top mechanic, more of a home tinkerer, but it is doable with the right tools and access. I used the AM workshop manual as the main guide but then also had to take some advice from other PHers for some of the less obvious issues.
In essence the main steps are:
• Remove under trays, wheel arch liners, rear bumper
• Remove exhaust, silencer and rear pipes
• Dissconnect rear brake lines then remove all suspension components from the sub frame (there’s a tricky captive nut on the front of the lower suspension arm that gave me loads of grief as they were completely seized up)
• I chose to refurbish the drive shafts so removed them but you might not need to
• Now here’s the clever part, so can actually swing the torque tube and gearbox/transaxle down far enough such that you don’t have to disconnect the gearbox. This requires loosening the engine mounts to give more freedom. Be careful not to go too far and you’ll probably need to disconnect the gear selector levers, I did.
• I demounted the transmission from the subframe by removing the hydromounts whilst supporting the trans on a transmission jack. Once this is lowered down it’s then just 6 bolts holding the sub frame to the chassis. Obviously re-alingment back to the original posiion is vital so mark everything up before separating them.
Other things to be aware of while you’re at it. If the subframe is badly corroded chances are you’ll have lots of seized bolts and fasteners so lots of Plus Gas, patience, and if required heat. As well as the subframe I also had the following blasted and coated, anti-roll bar + clamps, rear coil springs, rear grills, sub frame stabilizer brackets.
The following items also need replacement due to corrosion, trans oil cooler inlet and outlet pipes, these are hidden behind the silencer heat shield so worth takin that off to investigate, handbrake cable assembly, the adjusters on thsee can seize up if no grease is applied to the threads and I couldn’t free mine off.
After reassembly a full 4 wheel geometry aignment will be required.
I’ll try to compile a few pictures if that would be helpful?
I've done this job at home myself and yes it is quite a commitment to get into, mine ended up being off the road for 18months, but that was mainly down to lack of time to work on it.
I’m by no means a top mechanic, more of a home tinkerer, but it is doable with the right tools and access. I used the AM workshop manual as the main guide but then also had to take some advice from other PHers for some of the less obvious issues.
In essence the main steps are:
• Remove under trays, wheel arch liners, rear bumper
• Remove exhaust, silencer and rear pipes
• Dissconnect rear brake lines then remove all suspension components from the sub frame (there’s a tricky captive nut on the front of the lower suspension arm that gave me loads of grief as they were completely seized up)
• I chose to refurbish the drive shafts so removed them but you might not need to
• Now here’s the clever part, so can actually swing the torque tube and gearbox/transaxle down far enough such that you don’t have to disconnect the gearbox. This requires loosening the engine mounts to give more freedom. Be careful not to go too far and you’ll probably need to disconnect the gear selector levers, I did.
• I demounted the transmission from the subframe by removing the hydromounts whilst supporting the trans on a transmission jack. Once this is lowered down it’s then just 6 bolts holding the sub frame to the chassis. Obviously re-alingment back to the original posiion is vital so mark everything up before separating them.
Other things to be aware of while you’re at it. If the subframe is badly corroded chances are you’ll have lots of seized bolts and fasteners so lots of Plus Gas, patience, and if required heat. As well as the subframe I also had the following blasted and coated, anti-roll bar + clamps, rear coil springs, rear grills, sub frame stabilizer brackets.
The following items also need replacement due to corrosion, trans oil cooler inlet and outlet pipes, these are hidden behind the silencer heat shield so worth takin that off to investigate, handbrake cable assembly, the adjusters on thsee can seize up if no grease is applied to the threads and I couldn’t free mine off.
After reassembly a full 4 wheel geometry aignment will be required.
I’ll try to compile a few pictures if that would be helpful?
Pics would be really helpful BigMig - many thanks.
I'm no stranger to 3 hr shifts in the garage in the evenings, so even if it took me 20+hrs a couple of weeks should nail it.
Might wait until late Feb when it's a bit warmer, although it's amazing how hot you get lugging heavy stuff around.
I'm no stranger to 3 hr shifts in the garage in the evenings, so even if it took me 20+hrs a couple of weeks should nail it.
Might wait until late Feb when it's a bit warmer, although it's amazing how hot you get lugging heavy stuff around.
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