V12V Summer gremlins...Help!!!
Discussion
I went to start my p&j today to take it for a nice run as I’ve not been in it for a few weeks.
For the first time ever, it wouldn’t start. So I assumed the battery had gone flat, (but I’m generally diligent at keeping her periodically charged) so I put the charger on and returned within the hour and found all lights on green, so ready to go I thought.
I again tried to start the engine which again completely refused to turn over, but this time there was a horrendous clicking noise under the dash or in the engine bay that refused to stop at all until a few seconds after completely removing the key. (ECU thingy)
The noise is best described as a starter solenoid sticking, so I put it in gear and rocked the car gently to see if the starter was somehow suck, but this made no difference. After a few more attempts to start the car, the clicking stopped, but the engine still refuses to turn over. Another clicking noise then caught my attention, which turned out to be the hands on the clock rapidly scrolling around 24 hours before coming to rest at the correct time!
The solenoidy clicking noise has not returned, which is also a worry. (Something burned out now?)
Strange messages started to flash up: 1. ‘EMISSION SYSTEM SERVICE REQUIRED’ and 2. ‘BRAKE FAILURE, STOP SAFELY’
I checked the brake pedal. It feels extremely (possibly unusually) firm. I would expect it to be a lot softer as the engine isn’t running and therefore there’s no servo assistance. The brake pedal feels as I would expect it would if the engine was running with the servo assistance.
I again rocked to car to ensure all wheels are free which they are..(so maybe this is a red herring.)
I checked the battery voltage. 12.75v at the terminals and 12.45v in the engine bay itself.
Engine bay, boot fuses, underside of the car carefully checked for rodent damage or evidence with a torch, thankfully none found. (Fingers firmly crossed on that one…)
My car is kept in a lofted car port with a sealed roller shutter door, and I’m wondering if somehow the summer heat has affected it. (Although I have from time to time opened the door on some of the hotter days to lower the temp.)
Good people out there. Any suggestions? Has anyone encountered similar problems?
I anxiously await your responses….. And many thanks in advance.
For the first time ever, it wouldn’t start. So I assumed the battery had gone flat, (but I’m generally diligent at keeping her periodically charged) so I put the charger on and returned within the hour and found all lights on green, so ready to go I thought.
I again tried to start the engine which again completely refused to turn over, but this time there was a horrendous clicking noise under the dash or in the engine bay that refused to stop at all until a few seconds after completely removing the key. (ECU thingy)
The noise is best described as a starter solenoid sticking, so I put it in gear and rocked the car gently to see if the starter was somehow suck, but this made no difference. After a few more attempts to start the car, the clicking stopped, but the engine still refuses to turn over. Another clicking noise then caught my attention, which turned out to be the hands on the clock rapidly scrolling around 24 hours before coming to rest at the correct time!
The solenoidy clicking noise has not returned, which is also a worry. (Something burned out now?)
Strange messages started to flash up: 1. ‘EMISSION SYSTEM SERVICE REQUIRED’ and 2. ‘BRAKE FAILURE, STOP SAFELY’
I checked the brake pedal. It feels extremely (possibly unusually) firm. I would expect it to be a lot softer as the engine isn’t running and therefore there’s no servo assistance. The brake pedal feels as I would expect it would if the engine was running with the servo assistance.
I again rocked to car to ensure all wheels are free which they are..(so maybe this is a red herring.)
I checked the battery voltage. 12.75v at the terminals and 12.45v in the engine bay itself.
Engine bay, boot fuses, underside of the car carefully checked for rodent damage or evidence with a torch, thankfully none found. (Fingers firmly crossed on that one…)
My car is kept in a lofted car port with a sealed roller shutter door, and I’m wondering if somehow the summer heat has affected it. (Although I have from time to time opened the door on some of the hotter days to lower the temp.)
Good people out there. Any suggestions? Has anyone encountered similar problems?
I anxiously await your responses….. And many thanks in advance.
I had the same problem with mine a few years ago. Before it happened I’d had a few odd electrical gremlins, and then the tracker failed and it drained the battery completely. The clicking noise you mention was exactly the same when the starter was engaged and the engine was attempting to crank. As others mentioned, the voltage may look correct, but there’s a good chance the battery isn’t holding enough charge to turn the car over. My advice would be get the tracker checked, and get a new battery too. Good luck. I hope you manage to get it resolved without too much trouble.
Best Regards
Minglar
Best Regards
Minglar
Thanks Minglar,
Yes, the car is 2010MY and I’m sure it’s the original battery. I checked and topped up the cell levels back in June this year.
I guess it’s time to get hot and sweaty exchanging the batts!! Are there any dramas involved in doing this. Anything I should look out for?
Maybe I’ll try to jump start from another car, just to see if the motor cranks over and starts with the extra boost. Any thoughts? Any dangers? If it starts and runs ok, then this should put the matter to bed. New battery definitely required!
Yes, the car is 2010MY and I’m sure it’s the original battery. I checked and topped up the cell levels back in June this year.
I guess it’s time to get hot and sweaty exchanging the batts!! Are there any dramas involved in doing this. Anything I should look out for?
Maybe I’ll try to jump start from another car, just to see if the motor cranks over and starts with the extra boost. Any thoughts? Any dangers? If it starts and runs ok, then this should put the matter to bed. New battery definitely required!
I would go buy one of the starter batteries from AntiGravity or someone.
I have a couple, they are not too bulky, will deliver enough starting Amps to get a V12 going and have short / connection detectors so you cannot melt anything.
Also then no need to risk another vehicle, long cables etc etc.
I have a couple, they are not too bulky, will deliver enough starting Amps to get a V12 going and have short / connection detectors so you cannot melt anything.
Also then no need to risk another vehicle, long cables etc etc.
Lawts0908 said:
I guess it’s time to get hot and sweaty exchanging the batts!! Are there any dramas involved in doing this. Anything I should look out for?
If it's anything like a 2007 DB9, the auto-fold wing mirrors (if they are set to fold) will cease working, and the car will need to do a series of 'rundowns' from 70 to 30 before the ECU regains its marbles. Bonkers but true.PS Does it really need AMDS to reactive the auto-fold mirrors or is there any other way?
Lawts0908 said:
Thanks Minglar,
Yes, the car is 2010MY and I’m sure it’s the original battery. I checked and topped up the cell levels back in June this year.
I guess it’s time to get hot and sweaty exchanging the batts!! Are there any dramas involved in doing this. Anything I should look out for?
Maybe I’ll try to jump start from another car, just to see if the motor cranks over and starts with the extra boost. Any thoughts? Any dangers? If it starts and runs ok, then this should put the matter to bed. New battery definitely required!
When it happened to mine the recovery guys couldn’t get my car to start with their portable battery pack. They had to hook it up to their vehicle, but then it did start straight away with no issues. Funnily enough the day it wouldn’t start was actually the day it was booked in with my AM dealer to have a new tracker fitted, so once they got it going I drove it straight there! The tracker may not be the root cause, as hot temperatures can certainly affect battery performance and lead to degradation, but it’s worth checking it just in case imho. And if your battery is still the original I think you’ve done pretty well to survive this long really. Hopefully it’s nothing too troublesome. Good luck. Yes, the car is 2010MY and I’m sure it’s the original battery. I checked and topped up the cell levels back in June this year.
I guess it’s time to get hot and sweaty exchanging the batts!! Are there any dramas involved in doing this. Anything I should look out for?
Maybe I’ll try to jump start from another car, just to see if the motor cranks over and starts with the extra boost. Any thoughts? Any dangers? If it starts and runs ok, then this should put the matter to bed. New battery definitely required!
Best Regards
Minglar
I echo the others in a new battery. And possibly an exorcist for the clock, she is possessed. 
On a serious note, the brake pedal being firm is normal to me. When I don't drive mine for more than one week, the pedal is almost blocked for the first start and just go back to normal as soon as the engine turns on. I do have a SportShift though, I HAVE to press the pedal to turn on the car, not sure on a manual.
On a serious note, the brake pedal being firm is normal to me. When I don't drive mine for more than one week, the pedal is almost blocked for the first start and just go back to normal as soon as the engine turns on. I do have a SportShift though, I HAVE to press the pedal to turn on the car, not sure on a manual.
That clock thing was so weird!! 
Thanks for that on the the brake pedal. I can’t guarantee that I’d noticed how firm the pedal was before the strange brake safety message flashed up.
I’ve left my Optimate charger and conditioner on all night as the last chance saloon for the battery and will be checking soon.
Thanks for that on the the brake pedal. I can’t guarantee that I’d noticed how firm the pedal was before the strange brake safety message flashed up.
I’ve left my Optimate charger and conditioner on all night as the last chance saloon for the battery and will be checking soon.
Lawts0908 said:
I’ve left my Optimate charger and conditioner on all night as the last chance saloon for the battery and will be checking soon.
Thought I'd google that to see exactly what it did.Retired confused! https://www.optimate.co.uk/
The brake pedal should be firm if the engine isn't running as its the vacuum that makes the servo assistance work, and for that, you need the engine running so I would say thats normal.
Oh and ditto for new battery, especially if its the original. They give all sorts of weird electrical issues when low and or failing.
Oh and ditto for new battery, especially if its the original. They give all sorts of weird electrical issues when low and or failing.
Simpo Two said:
My Optimate conditioner goes through charging and discharging cycles to recondition batteries. It has proved very effective in the past, but sadly has not been successful with my V12V this time.Any recommendations for a replacement?
Lawts0908 said:
I checked the battery voltage. 12.75v at the terminals and 12.45v in the engine bay itself.
Has anyone suggested that you should check the battery voltage when the clock is going crazy and the relays are chattering?or
What's the battery voltage when switching some loads on like side/tail lights?
If the battery is shot at the voltage will quickly drop below 12 volts when under load
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