Aston Martin advice from Bamford Rose independent specialist

Aston Martin advice from Bamford Rose independent specialist

Author
Discussion

CSK1

1,598 posts

123 months

Tuesday 14th August 2018
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Vanquish has the same engine as V12 Vantage S and had the 6 speed auto, 8 speed came later so you're saying AML changed engine management when the 8 speed was introduced for the Vanquish?

starlight225

365 posts

210 months

Tuesday 14th August 2018
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CSK1 said:
Vanquish has the same engine as V12 Vantage S and had the 6 speed auto, 8 speed came later so you're saying AML changed engine management when the 8 speed was introduced for the Vanquish?
That is correct. 6 speed Vanquish/Rapide/DB9 use AM11 engine derivatives (V12 Vantage AM10) that use Visteon engine management and 8 speed Vanquish and Rapide use AM29 (AM27 also) and (V12 Vantage S AM28 & AM57) engine derivatives use Bosch engine management.

CSK1

1,598 posts

123 months

Tuesday 14th August 2018
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Thank you for the info Phil!
So Bosch management equipped cars have knock sensors and it makes sense using 98 RON petrol?

starlight225

365 posts

210 months

Tuesday 14th August 2018
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Yes, all Bosch engine management equipped derivatives have knock sensors.

CSK1

1,598 posts

123 months

Sunday 19th August 2018
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I've had the Performance Pack installed on my V12VSR. My warranty runs out in October and I'm not likely to renew.
So ideally I'd like to have the primary cats removed once the car is out of warranty, mainly to prevent cat ingestion.
I'm contemplating to replace the original equipment exhaust manifolds by a pair of those Inconel ones.
The only worry is that my car is already pretty loud with the full length titanium exhaust that came with the Performance Pack and I don't want it to sound like a tuned race car so would you recommend fitting Inconel exhaust manifolds in addition to the Performance Pack or will the resulting noise be unbearable for a road car?

Edited by CSK1 on Monday 20th August 11:48

CSK1

1,598 posts

123 months

Monday 27th August 2018
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Everyone on holiday at Bamford Rose?
If you happen to be in St Tropez, do pop in for a glass of rosé!
Be warned I will be questioning you!

JohnG1

3,462 posts

204 months

Tuesday 28th August 2018
quotequote all
CSK1 said:
I've had the Performance Pack installed on my V12VSR. My warranty runs out in October and I'm not likely to renew.
So ideally I'd like to have the primary cats removed once the car is out of warranty, mainly to prevent cat ingestion.
I'm contemplating to replace the original equipment exhaust manifolds by a pair of those Inconel ones.
The only worry is that my car is already pretty loud with the full length titanium exhaust that came with the Performance Pack and I don't want it to sound like a tuned race car so would you recommend fitting Inconel exhaust manifolds in addition to the Performance Pack or will the resulting noise be unbearable for a road car?

Edited by CSK1 on Monday 20th August 11:48
Which Inconel manifolds? I didn't know anyone offered them for V12V...

CSK1

1,598 posts

123 months

Wednesday 5th September 2018
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I believe Bamford Rose are offering Inconel manifolds. Maybe Mike could confirm if he bumps into this thread?

BamfordMike

1,192 posts

156 months

Wednesday 5th September 2018
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CSK1 said:
Everyone on holiday at Bamford Rose?
If you happen to be in St Tropez, do pop in for a glass of rosé!
Be warned I will be questioning you!
Ha... thanks but most of us here are more St Ives types than St Tropez!

For your car which already has power pack, a simple and straightforward primary cat delete will put the icing on the cake. You could go for a full manifold system, but the efficiency of the bang per buck reward will significantly diminish versus the primary cat delete because that last bit of performance gained from going to the full system on your already evolved car will be expensive to chase versus the lesser cost of primary cat delete.
I’d avoid Inconel manifolds, the weight save versus cost is not justifiable

CSK1

1,598 posts

123 months

Wednesday 5th September 2018
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Well I prefer the climate of my home town, St Tropez is not as glitzy as you might think, especially off-season!
I should think St Ives is as unbearable as St Tropez during July and August!

I believe one of your Swiss clients went for Inconel manifolds on his V12VS AMR which had me thinking of doing the same.

How easy is it to do a primary decat? Do you think I can ask my dealer to do it? Will a primary decat make it even louder? Not particularly want to make it louder as I think it is loud enough with the Performance Pack!

phib

4,464 posts

258 months

Friday 7th September 2018
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I have small water leak comming in through fan, on my picture below I have water comming down from where the blue arrow is and I can only suspect it is comming in from where the red arrow is ?

Would anyone have any advice as to where I can access the pannel where the red arrow is pointing and how you can stop water getting in ?

Any halep would be gratefully received ..... ideally withough me having to take the dash out !!

Drain holes apear to be all clear and water was comming in even when not using ac so I doubt (but not 100%) that its not the ac drain comming down the tube

Thanks

Phib

2007 vantage roadster


Edited by phib on Friday 7th September 10:31


Edited by phib on Friday 7th September 10:33

BamfordMike

1,192 posts

156 months

Friday 7th September 2018
quotequote all
phib said:
I have small water leak comming in through fan, on my picture below I have water comming down from where the blue arrow is and I can only suspect it is comming in from where the red arrow is ?

Would anyone have any advice as to where I can access the pannel where the red arrow is pointing and how you can stop water getting in ?

Any halep would be gratefully received ..... ideally withough me having to take the dash out !!

Drain holes apear to be all clear and water was comming in even when not using ac so I doubt (but not 100%) that its not the ac drain comming down the tube

Thanks

Phib

2007 vantage roadster


Edited by phib on Friday 7th September 10:31


Edited by phib on Friday 7th September 10:33
Hi.

Good to speak on the phone earlier, as a follow up, I’d do the following to sanity check...

Mix some water with harmless / non staining food colouring dye. Have a red colour, a green colour and a blue.

Tip the green colour (300 mls should do) down the air inlet for AC. You should see the green water exit down the vent which terminates behind passenger wheel.

Tip the red colour down the rain water drain hole, again, You should see the red water exit down the vent which terminates behind passenger wheel.

I’d then cover completely the AC air inlet and water drain holes in the panel and tip half a litre of blue water on the windscreen

Whatever colour water is inside on the HVAC unit is the entry point and you can decide how to fix

If the water is still clear, it is AC drain issue and that’ll be a blockage in the pipe coloured yellow!







BamfordMike

1,192 posts

156 months

Friday 7th September 2018
quotequote all
CSK1 said:
Well I prefer the climate of my home town, St Tropez is not as glitzy as you might think, especially off-season!
I should think St Ives is as unbearable as St Tropez during July and August!

I believe one of your Swiss clients went for Inconel manifolds on his V12VS AMR which had me thinking of doing the same.

How easy is it to do a primary decat? Do you think I can ask my dealer to do it? Will a primary decat make it even louder? Not particularly want to make it louder as I think it is loud enough with the Performance Pack!
Indeed, one of our lads went to Cornwall north coast and said it was like sardines in a can walking along the main promenades! I toured your neck of the woods when testing for BMW at Miramas, very nice, especially whilst on BMW expenses. Monaco in a Mini a year before production release was much fun, the car got more attention than multi million $$ yachts!

A dealer will unlikely be able to perform a primary decat at anything close a cost effective price and will not be able to remap the ECU. It’s a Bamford Rose workshop only job or a ‘fly n fit’ - but we’ll hammer the expenses!

phib

4,464 posts

258 months

Friday 7th September 2018
quotequote all
BamfordMike said:
Hi.

Good to speak on the phone earlier, as a follow up, I’d do the following to sanity check...

Mix some water with harmless / non staining food colouring dye. Have a red colour, a green colour and a blue.

Tip the green colour (300 mls should do) down the air inlet for AC. You should see the green water exit down the vent which terminates behind passenger wheel.

Tip the red colour down the rain water drain hole, again, You should see the red water exit down the vent which terminates behind passenger wheel.

I’d then cover completely the AC air inlet and water drain holes in the panel and tip half a litre of blue water on the windscreen

Whatever colour water is inside on the HVAC unit is the entry point and you can decide how to fix

If the water is still clear, it is AC drain issue and that’ll be a blockage in the pipe coloured yellow!






Mike,

Thank you so much for your time on the phone and for the details email I am really really grateful !

I will be off to Sainsburys tomorrow to buy several food colourings !!

Thanks

Phib

Dbeck84

1 posts

67 months

Thursday 20th September 2018
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Thoughts to the cause and why dealership is refusing to perform service or documentation?

Long story short my 2009 V8 vantage with 14k miles after i had been driving for about 30 minutes and was pulling away from a stop light began making a horrible metal on metal sound. I pulled over within 50 ft and before I turned it off to be towed to the dealer I check vitals and no warning lights, engine at perfect idle, no shaking the car everything perfectly normal except for an engine that sounded like it didnt have any oil. Two weeks prior the oil was changed using an OEM filter, recommended spec 10w60 and I had probably driven 100 miles since then and when this happened.

When i called the dealer and told them they said i had to pay 1k to diagnose the problem. annoyed but fine. two days later i call to check in and they said they didnt perform an inspection because when they turned the car on they knew from the sound the motor was completely shot and needing a replacement. I was still charged for the service but they told me on the phone you cant tell just from a sound we have to break it down and see to this being their exact words

The bearings are damaged due to the vehicle having low oil pressure for an extended period of time, how the oil pressure was low is any bodies guess at this point. The oil pump could have been failing and not providing adequate pressure or low oil level for an extended time could have had the same effect (it's dripping oil all over the shop and parking lot). The reason the diagnosis does not seem very in depth is because once seeing the vehicle in person it was very obvious to the technician that the bearings are destroyed and internal engine damage has already occurred. The only fix is to replace or rebuild.


Does this sound remotely accurate or even possible? I check the oil regularly and cars dont run just a little lean for a long time slowly doing damage when they get 6 month maintenance and are in storage 5 months a year. Also i dont believe oil pumps take little naps then resume duties. If the engine is cooked
1) why does it start and run fine despite it leaking oil at a massive pace for 3 straight weeks
2) could all of this happen and the engine management system not detect a single fault. still no CEL
3) they would only give me the option of a replacement engine for 30k. I assume its standard practice before saying an engine is done is to take a look at what is broken, whats intact, document, take pictures, if its a faulty part maybe petition to help with some of the cost, leave me with anything so if i should sell this i can tell the next owner what happened, why and how i went about the proper procedures to ensure it does not happen again.

I 100% something went very wrong with the motor, i have owned a lot of cars and something significant has broken on just about every one. Ive never had an engine that could idle, and drive if you wanted to risk it, be impossible to fix.

Thankfully despite having paid 140k for it new and driven it about 1500 miles per year but i do drive it every week 2-3 days just not in the winter and not for too long of a drive, something moderately spirited for 30 minutes but its never seen a redline and never had a single mechanical issue.

Can these engines really be this delicate that under no strain they just break apart and doesnt it seem odd the dealer will not properly establish the root cause despite paying them to do so and asking for me to trust a rather expensive swap is my only choice? When your paying there crazy 225 and hour and they say "why it went out, who knows at this point". You should!!!!!!!! This guy should have been a Dr. Go in with a sore arm and as he walks in jumps right to - we should probably cut that off. why? you said it hurts and it doesnt look perfectly normal so we could do tests and maybe a cast or we can get right to business and chop off the used, get you an non number matching spare and really when you think about it if you used that arm enough anyway it will eventually give way so im saving you time and money but taking it off now for just 30k.

I didnt want it sitting around anymore so i told them to go ahead and proceed with the motor a week ago. they called today and said that though they asked for a credit card to charge the 15k deposit and it went through and they have the funds, its their policy not to take that much via credit card so i should sent them a cashiers check for 15k, when they receive then they will order the engine and credit my Amex which should post as a credit to the account not be put back in my bank account, in 2-3 weeks meaning just for a week or two ill have 45k less in cash on hand accounts which i dont know about many of you but that is about as much as i typically keep in my checking. when i see much more i buy something dumb and when i made about 12 bucks on an 80k balance last year in interest i figured it was time to find some low risk, semi decent yield short term investments too at least keep up with inflation. I do ok 34 years old, 450 a year, wife another 120 and no house payments and keep 2k in car payments because they offered 0.9% when we bought them and i was seeing 22% using their money. I dont say any ot this to brag, i dont know if that makes me a minimum criteria for an aston owner but i had a GT2, Range Rover autobioraphy SC, XFR-S and a RS5 (i buy 3-5 years old, and when i decide its something i want i open a google search and wait sometimes 2 years to get the right one at a good price and i list something else for sale and let it sit until someone picks it up. Overall ive been able to own a lot of great cars and minus sales tax and things any car would need none of my cars really cost me anything to own for a couple years. This has been a different experience than anything ive encountered

closest dealer is 250 miles away
- i was looking for weeks and could not find any parts for this car or engines for sale. i looked and called everywhere and found one crank and one cam. I didnt want to go the salvage yard route as is felt that would just compound problems if damange wasnt disclosed and it never is.

based of this. do i have reason to be upset? i keep going back and forth between knowing i wasnt buying the mos reliable car but engines blow when pushed and they blow. ive never had an engine that broke a hip as a sign of slowly dying from the ripe age of turning 9. Is it common to wing it regarding a repair of this size? Ive had completely opposite experiences with every car at every dealer so this doesnt seem right but im also annoyed at the thoughts of spending so much and the absurdity of the payment situation - and the think you should mail 15k cashiers checks because there is no way that could go missing. I feel like they are taking advantage of a situation but i dont know enough to say otherwise so id love to hear from well known respected experts on the brand who are not on their payroll. what if anything could or should i do?

DB9VolanteDriver

2,612 posts

175 months

Thursday 20th September 2018
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Oh no! This drama again. You can read his complete ongoing saga on 6speed under Karma84 user name. Please don't pollute the B&R thread with these endless posts!

Speculatore

2,002 posts

234 months

Friday 21st September 2018
quotequote all
BamfordMike said:
Indeed, one of our lads went to Cornwall north coast and said it was like sardines in a can walking along the main promenades! I toured your neck of the woods when testing for BMW at Miramas, very nice, especially whilst on BMW expenses. Monaco in a Mini a year before production release was much fun, the car got more attention than multi million $$ yachts!

A dealer will unlikely be able to perform a primary decat at anything close a cost effective price and will not be able to remap the ECU. It’s a Bamford Rose workshop only job or a ‘fly n fit’ - but we’ll hammer the expenses!
Don't forget your tour around a couple of 'Superyachts' in Barcelona...... M/Y Garcon and M/Y Quatroelle

neirbobor1

3 posts

66 months

Tuesday 25th September 2018
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Hi Bamford Rose gurus!

Hope you can help

I have an 05 Vantage V8 - we are replacing the power steering pump and have discovered the transducer has disintegrated where the PAS pipes go into the steering rack which may have caused the pump problem as leaking steering fluid for some time with no warning light. Part number is 4G43-3K215-AA. I notice from the catalogue this part is now listed as 4G43-3K215-AB. Assuming this is simply an upgrade? Also, is this just a Ford/Jag/LandRover/Volvo part rebadged as AML and price inflated accordingly? Can i just use OEM part with same number?

Your advice would be massively appreciated

neirbobor1

3 posts

66 months

Tuesday 25th September 2018
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Also, re OEM parts - do you know which manufacturer/model these parts were taken from - guessing Ford but would be great to know make and model so i can source the part

Regards.

Rob

paulbirkin

62 posts

80 months

Tuesday 25th September 2018
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I have a 2010 Rapide and the tyre pressure monitoring system has come on, flashes yellow then goes solid yellow.i have checked and reset all 4 tyre pressures today, then driven approximately 15 miles, but the light will not go out. Any suggestions?
Thank you Paul