Any zc32 Suzuki swift sport users?
Discussion
Yes, if you want high performance the Swift Sport is the wrong car.
This Autocar article compared the Swift to the more highly strung competition, either lineage of which caters better to the fast crowd.
https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/industry/last-n...
The Yaris GMRN (1.8 Supercharged) is probably the last hot hatch where a turbo doesn't interfere with proceedings.
This Autocar article compared the Swift to the more highly strung competition, either lineage of which caters better to the fast crowd.
https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/industry/last-n...
The Yaris GMRN (1.8 Supercharged) is probably the last hot hatch where a turbo doesn't interfere with proceedings.
Yes, various upgrades available from CTC, I think they are currently up to around 230bhp from their ZC33S with the K14C engine, and their demo car received a thumbs up from the motoring press. Unfortunately they're having to start again with K14D hybrid - there are significant differences between the engines.
Supercharger kits were available for the ZC31S, but not much evidence of people using forced induction with the ZC32S.
Ultimately the current tuning options and potential of the engines are a bit limited, but I know CTC are hoping for big numbers from their next turbo upgrade prototype.
Supercharger kits were available for the ZC31S, but not much evidence of people using forced induction with the ZC32S.
Ultimately the current tuning options and potential of the engines are a bit limited, but I know CTC are hoping for big numbers from their next turbo upgrade prototype.
gweaver said:
Of course dapper also has the option of a BBR upgrade to his MX-5, but best to check the insurance premiums first!
I have been tempted, although I would have to be sure that I'm going to want to keep the car a while, as getting good quality parts for turbo-ing my NB is upwards or 3k, which is more than the car is worth.Wee update on my SSS:
Fitted some H&R springs more as a trial than anything. Standard shocks cope very well. Noticeably stiffer and lack of rebound when really pushing with heavy undulations. Coilovers will help so planning underway for that. Ohlins appear the best but arguments over cost v cheaper almost as good alternatives.
New pads and discs fitted all round. Callipers cleaned up and painted to tart up a bit.
Pipercross panel filter. This makes a surprising difference.
Camberbolts arrived to give a bit of -ve camber after advice from CTC.
Internal:
New Suzuki armrest picked up on eBay and fitted. Bit too high for use on anything other than a long haul.
Custco gear knob on order.
Looking for a fix on the window seals on the passenger side which a parting on the door shut line. Might try some adhesive tape.
Fitted some H&R springs more as a trial than anything. Standard shocks cope very well. Noticeably stiffer and lack of rebound when really pushing with heavy undulations. Coilovers will help so planning underway for that. Ohlins appear the best but arguments over cost v cheaper almost as good alternatives.
New pads and discs fitted all round. Callipers cleaned up and painted to tart up a bit.
Pipercross panel filter. This makes a surprising difference.
Camberbolts arrived to give a bit of -ve camber after advice from CTC.
Internal:
New Suzuki armrest picked up on eBay and fitted. Bit too high for use on anything other than a long haul.
Custco gear knob on order.
Looking for a fix on the window seals on the passenger side which a parting on the door shut line. Might try some adhesive tape.
kinker_rocks said:
New pads and discs fitted all round.
Did you go for OEM pads and discs or something a bit fancier?kinker_rocks said:
Pipercross panel filter. This makes a surprising difference.
Can you describe the difference this makes, is it sound or performance? I thought oiled foam filters were a bit dodgy, something about the engine ingesting the oil, or is that just an old wives tale?Looks good, got to love a 5 door in blue!
I’d never fit an oiled filter again.
Even with a full on induction kit you only get better sound, maybe a couple of Bhp but nothing you would notice.
Last time I checked oem front discs were something stupid like £180 a pair.
I got discs from CTC (rotinger branded) and EBC pads which I am still happy with after a winter season. They probably corrode less than the oem and perform well. Much cheaper.
Even with a full on induction kit you only get better sound, maybe a couple of Bhp but nothing you would notice.
Last time I checked oem front discs were something stupid like £180 a pair.
I got discs from CTC (rotinger branded) and EBC pads which I am still happy with after a winter season. They probably corrode less than the oem and perform well. Much cheaper.
Beerfinch said:
kinker_rocks said:
New pads and discs fitted all round.
Did you go for OEM pads and discs or something a bit fancier?kinker_rocks said:
Pipercross panel filter. This makes a surprising difference.
Can you describe the difference this makes, is it sound or performance? I thought oiled foam filters were a bit dodgy, something about the engine ingesting the oil, or is that just an old wives tale?Looks good, got to love a 5 door in blue!
Rotinger discs looks decent value only thing worth noting is they don’t come drilled for the securing screw. It’s not really an issue just for info. The Mintex discs on the rear had the retaining screws holes.
The filter seems to make the engine a little bit more egar higher up the rev range. As said assuming no power increase. I did find some loose jubilee clips on the intake as well so this might be help as well.
My Swift is having a bad week.
Tuesday I had a minor service and got the valve clearances checked - they are ok (one inlet valve is 0.01mm out of spec). Mechanic thought it was slow to crank though, and tested the battery - the capacity is way down. I don't do a lot of miles normally, but I think lockdowns have done for the battery, which is only four years old. Tayna are out of stock for the 012 battery that I want, so may get the higher spec one, or maybe fit an 063, which is what is in there now (fitted by dealer under warranty).
Worse, yesterday I spotted that the tail lights are both starting to develop small cracks. The right hand one is slightly worse. The mod on one of the Facebook forums has had the same issue with his Swift Sport. Apparently it's a common issue with German cars.
The cracking is where the clear section meets the red area below, on both nearside and offside lamps. Apparently possible causes of cracking (besides poor quality) include UV, temperature change, stress and harsh cleaning products, especially neat isopropanol (rubbing alcohol). Given our northerly climate, low mileage of my car (24k), the cleaning products that I've used (AutoGlanz Spritzer pre-wash and Bilt Hamber Auto-Wash shampoo), and the position of the cracks, I reckon this is a quality issue, maybe a bad batch.
I'll probably monitor it for a few months, and see how the cracks develop. I'd be interested to know if others have noticed similar cracks in their tail lights. My parents Vauxhall headlamps developed micro cracks after about ten years and 90k miles, again with no obvious cause. We replaced those.
Tuesday I had a minor service and got the valve clearances checked - they are ok (one inlet valve is 0.01mm out of spec). Mechanic thought it was slow to crank though, and tested the battery - the capacity is way down. I don't do a lot of miles normally, but I think lockdowns have done for the battery, which is only four years old. Tayna are out of stock for the 012 battery that I want, so may get the higher spec one, or maybe fit an 063, which is what is in there now (fitted by dealer under warranty).
Worse, yesterday I spotted that the tail lights are both starting to develop small cracks. The right hand one is slightly worse. The mod on one of the Facebook forums has had the same issue with his Swift Sport. Apparently it's a common issue with German cars.
The cracking is where the clear section meets the red area below, on both nearside and offside lamps. Apparently possible causes of cracking (besides poor quality) include UV, temperature change, stress and harsh cleaning products, especially neat isopropanol (rubbing alcohol). Given our northerly climate, low mileage of my car (24k), the cleaning products that I've used (AutoGlanz Spritzer pre-wash and Bilt Hamber Auto-Wash shampoo), and the position of the cracks, I reckon this is a quality issue, maybe a bad batch.
I'll probably monitor it for a few months, and see how the cracks develop. I'd be interested to know if others have noticed similar cracks in their tail lights. My parents Vauxhall headlamps developed micro cracks after about ten years and 90k miles, again with no obvious cause. We replaced those.
Edited by gweaver on Monday 3rd May 22:30
Edited by gweaver on Monday 3rd May 22:32
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