Any zc32 Suzuki swift sport users?
Discussion
axel1990chp said:
So on the odd occasion, when starting the car up, neither cold or warm specifically, it will star and idle at high revs, for about 30 seconds or so.
Never often, maybe once every 3 weeks, and I am in the car a lot.
Slight rev increase by about 200/300 rpm at most.
Trying to drive off or move the car when its doing it - means it sounds like an old dear is riding the clutch.
Haven't dug into it fully yet, as I have been all over and not had the energy when I do have a spare moment.
Has anyone had similar, or could potentially point me in the right direction?
Ta!
Have you tried cleaning the MAF sensor and throttle body? Very easy to DIYNever often, maybe once every 3 weeks, and I am in the car a lot.
Slight rev increase by about 200/300 rpm at most.
Trying to drive off or move the car when its doing it - means it sounds like an old dear is riding the clutch.
Haven't dug into it fully yet, as I have been all over and not had the energy when I do have a spare moment.
Has anyone had similar, or could potentially point me in the right direction?
Ta!
AnhBanhBao said:
Hope everyone’s still enjoying their Swifts.
Mine’s coming up to 55k miles and is booked in for a service and MOT in the new year.
No evidence so far of any gearbox oil changes; I’m assuming this would be well-recommended by now?
I think the interval is something like 80k for the gear oil but no harm in doing it sooner. I used Redline that was recommended to me, but to be honest any decent brand would be fine, Castrol, Motul etc.Mine’s coming up to 55k miles and is booked in for a service and MOT in the new year.
No evidence so far of any gearbox oil changes; I’m assuming this would be well-recommended by now?
Garett said:
I think the interval is something like 80k for the gear oil but no harm in doing it sooner. I used Redline that was recommended to me, but to be honest any decent brand would be fine, Castrol, Motul etc.
The service book says 36k miles / 4 years for the first gearbox oil change. Inspect after that if you’ve used genuine Suzuki but it would be sensible to stick to the same schedule.I don’t do the miles but change mine every 4 years. I can feel the difference.
Don’t let anyone fleece you for it though. It’s 1.8l of 75w80 gl4 and really easy to do.
I’d also recommend bleeding the clutch the next time the brake fluid is done. Shares the same reservoir. Again easy to do and makes a noticeable difference if not done for a while. I doubt many people do it unless for a clutch change.
Treat myself to 4 new tyres, rear left was almost out, the rest were clear MOT passing ditch finders some time ago. January sales gave a a fairly acceptable deal with Kwik-fit of all people. Handy for me because they're within walking distance of my home.
4x F1 Asymmetric 6's. 460 all in. Went for the 205/45's as recommended here through out the thread. As you can imagine the ride difference is significant.
I was made aware of a buckled front left, which has been done before my ownership (The alloys are battered so they poor thing has been through the ringer). Heading to a local place on Friday (if the fella is in shop and not on call out) to have it sorted out, another £60 but not too bad considering.
I'd toyed with the idea of changing to some Team Dynamics, but frankly this car is simply for cheap motoring to get me about for the time being, and that doesnt quite fit with that ethos. I will have them refurbed and resprayed when I head off on holiday later in the year, which will tidy them up. Potential on spacers just for my own personal preference as the wheels really do sit in the arches for some reason. (Open to recommendations if anyone runs these? I've seen 20mm all round seems the norm)
Oil service light came up the other month, but at the same time I considered just buying a bulk of bits to do a mad day of maintenance on it just before the MOT is due in April. From records its had belts done, nothing more.
New plugs and coils are on my list, as well as replacing all the oil everywhere, with new filters to boot.
NGK seem to do some plugs on AUTODOC at a glance, and there's a plethora of coils available, I'm curious as to any of the above work detailed, what others have gone with?
4x F1 Asymmetric 6's. 460 all in. Went for the 205/45's as recommended here through out the thread. As you can imagine the ride difference is significant.
I was made aware of a buckled front left, which has been done before my ownership (The alloys are battered so they poor thing has been through the ringer). Heading to a local place on Friday (if the fella is in shop and not on call out) to have it sorted out, another £60 but not too bad considering.
I'd toyed with the idea of changing to some Team Dynamics, but frankly this car is simply for cheap motoring to get me about for the time being, and that doesnt quite fit with that ethos. I will have them refurbed and resprayed when I head off on holiday later in the year, which will tidy them up. Potential on spacers just for my own personal preference as the wheels really do sit in the arches for some reason. (Open to recommendations if anyone runs these? I've seen 20mm all round seems the norm)
Oil service light came up the other month, but at the same time I considered just buying a bulk of bits to do a mad day of maintenance on it just before the MOT is due in April. From records its had belts done, nothing more.
New plugs and coils are on my list, as well as replacing all the oil everywhere, with new filters to boot.
NGK seem to do some plugs on AUTODOC at a glance, and there's a plethora of coils available, I'm curious as to any of the above work detailed, what others have gone with?
axel1990chp said:
...Handy for me because they're within walking distance of my home....
Were you carrying the tyres home? 
I've also looked at my rear wheels and though some spacers would help fill the arches, but I did wonder if doing so would remove some of the rear end movement you get from the car which makes up a lot of the fun around roundabouts etc.
axel1990chp said:
I'm curious as to any of the above work detailed, what others have gone with?
I wouldn't bother replacing the coils unless you have issues. They aren't unreliable.Plugs could probably stay as well. Iridium will likely do 100K miles. That said I went with Denso iridium twin tip when I did mine IKH20TT (4704).
For engine oil I go for the cheapest branded 5w30 I can find at the time. Last time it was Castrol Edge from Halfords with a Mann oil filter from them too.
Checking my records I got a Mann air filter and Bosch cabin filter from Halfords last time too.
Oil filter was £6
Air £14
Cabin £7.50
I'd use Mann and Halfords again.
Coolant - I like the Prestone ready mixed. Its supposed to have a 10 year life but I'm happier changing every three or four.
Gear oil Motul 75w80 GL4
Brake fluid - ATE Type 200. In reality any branded DOT4 is fine for the road but its not a lot of money to have top spec. I wouldn't go Motul RBF 600 as I've heard you need to change it annually. The ATE can go three years so the usual two will see it in good shape still.
One of the big service items virtually nobody does is the valve clearance check. They have a bucket on shim arangment which in theory can go out of spec. I won't be bothering doing mine but if you are handy with the spanners you might want to do it.
The fuel filter is in tank so not serviceable.
The only other thing I do to mine which I think is a good idea is to spray the subframes with a rust proofer (I use XCP rust blocker) at the end of summer.
Edited to add it’s worth cleaning and regressing the brake calliper sliders. I tend to do it when I’m doing the brake fluid as taking the wheels off is at least half of the job.
Edited by trickywoo on Thursday 16th January 17:46
billywlkr said:
Hello,
so for about 3 weeks, I have been hearing an irregular, metallic sound from the car's underbody, maybe axle. I can't tell 100% if its front or back of the car, but it seems its from the back.
It just sounds like a momentary metallic pop, no grinding or squeaking. Sort of like some metal parts are momentarily bumping into each other. It happens every time I drive, but absolutely irregularly and regardless of the terrain I drive on or the speed, acceleration or braking. Sometimes it happens even when I start to drive off slowly.
I dont think i can describe it more precisely and I hope it's gonna be something silly. If anyone has any ideas on what to look for, I'd really appreciate it, thanks.
So in case someone else would have a similar problem, it was solved. The front driveshaft was replaced. so for about 3 weeks, I have been hearing an irregular, metallic sound from the car's underbody, maybe axle. I can't tell 100% if its front or back of the car, but it seems its from the back.
It just sounds like a momentary metallic pop, no grinding or squeaking. Sort of like some metal parts are momentarily bumping into each other. It happens every time I drive, but absolutely irregularly and regardless of the terrain I drive on or the speed, acceleration or braking. Sometimes it happens even when I start to drive off slowly.
I dont think i can describe it more precisely and I hope it's gonna be something silly. If anyone has any ideas on what to look for, I'd really appreciate it, thanks.
EmilA said:
Contemplating making the switch from my '20 hyrbid Swift over to a Swift Sport, ZC33. Off to test drive one this weekend.
I gather the '20+ models became hybrids and lost some power/noise. Is there anything else significant that changed as I can't seem to find much.
Not any as far as I am aware, be grateful if you share your thoughts post test drive. Cheers.I gather the '20+ models became hybrids and lost some power/noise. Is there anything else significant that changed as I can't seem to find much.
Will give some feedback, looking forward to driving one, lets hope it isn't a wash out weather wise!
There are two cars up for consideration, one is a 69 plate and the other is 70. Both I believe have car play, viewing the 70 plate one first as its closer, and in a preferred colour, just slightly more expensive.
There are two cars up for consideration, one is a 69 plate and the other is 70. Both I believe have car play, viewing the 70 plate one first as its closer, and in a preferred colour, just slightly more expensive.
trails said:
Thanks for sharingtheoutcome...do you know what failed?
The dealership said the front left driveshaft was starting to wear out, developed increased clearance, causing clunking noises in the joint.That's all I know. If it was true, who knows, but they replaced it with a new one and the problem is gone.
billywlkr said:
trails said:
Thanks for sharingtheoutcome...do you know what failed?
The dealership said the front left driveshaft was starting to wear out, developed increased clearance, causing clunking noises in the joint.That's all I know. If it was true, who knows, but they replaced it with a new one and the problem is gone.
Sadly no test drive today. Wasted 2 hours driving there and back to see the car, but not be allowed to test drive it without saying that I would be buying it afterwards.
I said my ideal monthly payment, dealer didn’t even bother to really discuss a deal.
The car itself had a cracked bumper, looked like the windscreen had been replaced and had an arch liner badly fitted. Dealer said they had fitted this car’s bumper to another car that sold, and would replace this if I brought it.
If you see this car for sale in Halesowen, I wouldn’t bother visiting..
I said my ideal monthly payment, dealer didn’t even bother to really discuss a deal.
The car itself had a cracked bumper, looked like the windscreen had been replaced and had an arch liner badly fitted. Dealer said they had fitted this car’s bumper to another car that sold, and would replace this if I brought it.
If you see this car for sale in Halesowen, I wouldn’t bother visiting..
EmilA said:
Sadly no test drive today. Wasted 2 hours driving there and back to see the car, but not be allowed to test drive it without saying that I would be buying it afterwards.
I said my ideal monthly payment, dealer didn’t even bother to really discuss a deal.
The car itself had a cracked bumper, looked like the windscreen had been replaced and had an arch liner badly fitted. Dealer said they had fitted this car’s bumper to another car that sold, and would replace this if I brought it.
If you see this car for sale in Halesowen, I wouldn’t bother visiting..
Dodgy dealer it seems and Birmingham way double red flag.I said my ideal monthly payment, dealer didn’t even bother to really discuss a deal.
The car itself had a cracked bumper, looked like the windscreen had been replaced and had an arch liner badly fitted. Dealer said they had fitted this car’s bumper to another car that sold, and would replace this if I brought it.
If you see this car for sale in Halesowen, I wouldn’t bother visiting..
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