New E39 owner... What inexpensive mods?
Discussion
After 3 days with the car I can say that this is my favourite car I own. And can see how they become addictive.
I want to keep it as original as possible.
Odd thing is I can't get any windscreen washers going. I can hear it pumping but nothing.
Here's what I want to do
Fix scratches and rust spots
Fix washers
Replace interior lights? LEDs off eBay? £20
Fix front and rear sensors? eBay
Back and rear windscreen tinted. Limo black?
New multimedia head unit?
Is there a way to get better headlights without replacing the angel eyes? Is it a bulb replacement? What fixing am I needing?
Any other suggestions?
P.S here's the car...
I want to keep it as original as possible.
Odd thing is I can't get any windscreen washers going. I can hear it pumping but nothing.
Here's what I want to do
Fix scratches and rust spots
Fix washers
Replace interior lights? LEDs off eBay? £20
Fix front and rear sensors? eBay
Back and rear windscreen tinted. Limo black?
New multimedia head unit?
Is there a way to get better headlights without replacing the angel eyes? Is it a bulb replacement? What fixing am I needing?
Any other suggestions?
P.S here's the car...
"Turn on"? - you mean when you engage reverse? If it goes beep when that happens, I'm afraid that's the system's way of telling you one (or more) of the sensors is knackered... when they're working properly, you don't hear anything unless there's actually something near the sensors.
helix402 said:
Only use genuine BMW pdc sensors, new or used. Aftermarket don't work.
I've seen a few posts from people who've bought Land Rover ones and filed a couple of tabs off to make them fit. Don't know how reliable these are in the long run, but the BMW ones seem hit or miss enough, at least on the E46. The rear bumper isn't the kindest place for electronic stuff exposed to the elements of course...Edited by to3m on Friday 21st July 11:03
to3m said:
"Turn on"? - you mean when you engage reverse? If it goes beep when that happens, I'm afraid that's the system's way of telling you one (or more) of the sensors is knackered... when they're working properly, you don't hear anything unless there's actually something near the sensors.
No, so got my dad to stand close to them and noting. The front wasn't picking up my garage door either. The sound comes on to tell me they've been engaged... That sound lasts a couple of seconds then that's it. Edited by to3m on Friday 21st July 11:03
LGriffiths88 said:
to3m said:
"Turn on"? - you mean when you engage reverse? If it goes beep when that happens, I'm afraid that's the system's way of telling you one (or more) of the sensors is knackered... when they're working properly, you don't hear anything unless there's actually something near the sensors.
No, so got my dad to stand close to them and noting. The front wasn't picking up my garage door either. The sound comes on to tell me they've been engaged... That sound lasts a couple of seconds then that's it. Edited by to3m on Friday 21st July 11:03
Regarding the wash wipe system, are the hoses ok? It's a common fault on these that the washer pipes get brittle and crack.I've had to partially replumb my system as a strong enough screen wash mix wasn't used this winter (oops!) and they broke. Halfords do really cheap washer piping, however you will want to jubilee clip them back on as they can get soft and pop off. Or just splurge loads on new plumbing from BMW!
The washer reservoir is located behind the arch liner to the driver's front wheel. From hear it runs up through a grommet into the area below the pollen filter (you will have removed the pollen filter assembly to check. From there its easy to view. The next common area to break is behind the sound/heat insulation to the bonnet. These are a pain in the arse to change.
Lovely looking car though, and I hope that is of some use!
LGriffiths88 said:
After 3 days with the car I can say that this is my favourite car I own. And can see how they become addictive.
I want to keep it as original as possible.
Odd thing is I can't get any windscreen washers going. I can hear it pumping but nothing.
Here's what I want to do
Fix scratches and rust spots
Fix washers
Replace interior lights? LEDs off eBay? £20
Fix front and rear sensors? eBay
Back and rear windscreen tinted. Limo black?
New multimedia head unit?
Is there a way to get better headlights without replacing the angel eyes? Is it a bulb replacement? What fixing am I needing?
Any other suggestions?
P.S here's the car...
The pipes harden and come apart when it freezes, they just need pushing back together. Check from the wiper jets back towards the pump. They usually come apart under the bonnet insulation or near the OSF shock tower/bulkhead bridge.I want to keep it as original as possible.
Odd thing is I can't get any windscreen washers going. I can hear it pumping but nothing.
Here's what I want to do
Fix scratches and rust spots
Fix washers
Replace interior lights? LEDs off eBay? £20
Fix front and rear sensors? eBay
Back and rear windscreen tinted. Limo black?
New multimedia head unit?
Is there a way to get better headlights without replacing the angel eyes? Is it a bulb replacement? What fixing am I needing?
Any other suggestions?
P.S here's the car...
having owned one I'd be saving your pennies for the following to happen (because unless fixed already then this is around the corner for you)
I'm going to number these in teh priority I would assign to them 1 meaning "now" 3 meaning "sometime in the future"
1) Viscous Clutch and Fan Failure
1) Radiator Pack Failure
1) Rust in the jacking points leading to MOT failure (take the jacking pads out and have a good look)
1) Rust in the rear panel behind the bumper creeping up into the rear trim strip blow the boot shut
1) Rust in the bootlid
2) Rocker Cover Cracking and leaking oil
2) Wiring loom to the rear lights breaking up causing number plate lights to stop working
3) ABS Computer Failure
3) Lamda Sensor failing
3) Crankcase breather blocking
3) Vanos units needing replacement
3) Coil packs packing in.
3) Seat occupancy /seat Belt Sensor failing
3) Aircon pipe leaking
3) Key fob battery failing and needing new key coded
3) cup holder breaking x2
E39's are great - once you've fixed all the problems..
I'm going to number these in teh priority I would assign to them 1 meaning "now" 3 meaning "sometime in the future"
1) Viscous Clutch and Fan Failure
1) Radiator Pack Failure
1) Rust in the jacking points leading to MOT failure (take the jacking pads out and have a good look)
1) Rust in the rear panel behind the bumper creeping up into the rear trim strip blow the boot shut
1) Rust in the bootlid
2) Rocker Cover Cracking and leaking oil
2) Wiring loom to the rear lights breaking up causing number plate lights to stop working
3) ABS Computer Failure
3) Lamda Sensor failing
3) Crankcase breather blocking
3) Vanos units needing replacement
3) Coil packs packing in.
3) Seat occupancy /seat Belt Sensor failing
3) Aircon pipe leaking
3) Key fob battery failing and needing new key coded
3) cup holder breaking x2
E39's are great - once you've fixed all the problems..
hman said:
having owned one I'd be saving your pennies for the following to happen (because unless fixed already then this is around the corner for you)
I'm going to number these in teh priority I would assign to them 1 meaning "now" 3 meaning "sometime in the future"
1) Viscous Clutch and Fan Failure
1) Radiator Pack Failure
1) Rust in the jacking points leading to MOT failure (take the jacking pads out and have a good look)
1) Rust in the rear panel behind the bumper creeping up into the rear trim strip blow the boot shut
1) Rust in the bootlid
2) Rocker Cover Cracking and leaking oil
2) Wiring loom to the rear lights breaking up causing number plate lights to stop working
3) ABS Computer Failure
3) Lamda Sensor failing
3) Crankcase breather blocking
3) Vanos units needing replacement
3) Coil packs packing in.
3) Seat occupancy /seat Belt Sensor failing
3) Aircon pipe leaking
3) Key fob battery failing and needing new key coded
3) cup holder breaking x2
E39's are great - once you've fixed all the problems..
I owned one for six years, the loom needed repairing (easy to solder some staggered jumpers in) and the rocker cover gasket hardened.I'm going to number these in teh priority I would assign to them 1 meaning "now" 3 meaning "sometime in the future"
1) Viscous Clutch and Fan Failure
1) Radiator Pack Failure
1) Rust in the jacking points leading to MOT failure (take the jacking pads out and have a good look)
1) Rust in the rear panel behind the bumper creeping up into the rear trim strip blow the boot shut
1) Rust in the bootlid
2) Rocker Cover Cracking and leaking oil
2) Wiring loom to the rear lights breaking up causing number plate lights to stop working
3) ABS Computer Failure
3) Lamda Sensor failing
3) Crankcase breather blocking
3) Vanos units needing replacement
3) Coil packs packing in.
3) Seat occupancy /seat Belt Sensor failing
3) Aircon pipe leaking
3) Key fob battery failing and needing new key coded
3) cup holder breaking x2
E39's are great - once you've fixed all the problems..
LGriffiths88 said:
After 3 days with the car I can say that this is my favourite car I own. And can see how they become addictive.
I want to keep it as original as possible.
Odd thing is I can't get any windscreen washers going. I can hear it pumping but nothing.
Are you sure the water isnt leaking out of the pipe work somewhere and is the insulation under the bonnet dry? If it isn't leaking pipe joints the next culprit will probably be the filter in the reservoirI want to keep it as original as possible.
Odd thing is I can't get any windscreen washers going. I can hear it pumping but nothing.
The BMW washer system is very susceptible to the filter in the reservoir bunging up due to people mixing fluid types & the mixed chemicals forming a gel layer over the filter. You need to strip out the reservoir and clean it out (as above, in side the drivers side wheel arch liner) then stick to one fluid type. From what I recall reading the yellow Prestone screenwash is the best additive / least likely to block the filter again. I might have seen a suggestion you could clear it by dropping a sterilising tablet in but don't quote me on that.
LGriffiths88 said:
New multimedia head unit?
If all you want to do is put a new head unit with bluetooth / usb inputs in and don't mind loosing the steering wheel controls and the computer display this is a doddle as these are the last of the Single Din stereo size systems, although you will need a conversion cable and a facia blanking plate. The fascia is not a double din, it's Din & a bit and the slot behind is Single Din.I forget where I got mine from now, but it was on line, not Halfords. You will still get the major check control messages on the dash, and the range & MPG IRC, but not the bulb failure messages.
LGriffiths88 said:
Is there a way to get better headlights without replacing the angel eyes? Is it a bulb replacement? What fixing am I needing?
I didnt think the lights were up to much either and found it was because the lenses were so pitted. Unfortunately on mine one side had already been replaced so rather than polish the other one I bought a replacement unit from GSF (sign up for their mailing list and get 50% off every weekend) and fitted that. WIth better bulbs they were ok.LGriffiths88 said:
Any other suggestions?
The car is now quite old and needs all the TLC due its age, with the provisio of if it ain't broke dont fix it. If I had another one I would prioritise the coolant system over everything else, these are a notorious weakness but swopping out the radiator, pump, thermostat, belts and idler pulleys are a very easy DIY job. I would look carefully at the rubber components in the suspension and check the brakes and battery over. This site is the best guidance for how tos that I have ever found, so much so that I wouldnt bother with the Haynes manual:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/tech_...
WinstonWolf said:
hman said:
having owned one I'd be saving your pennies for the following to happen (because unless fixed already then this is around the corner for you)
I'm going to number these in teh priority I would assign to them 1 meaning "now" 3 meaning "sometime in the future"
1) Viscous Clutch and Fan Failure
1) Radiator Pack Failure
1) Rust in the jacking points leading to MOT failure (take the jacking pads out and have a good look)
1) Rust in the rear panel behind the bumper creeping up into the rear trim strip blow the boot shut
1) Rust in the bootlid
2) Rocker Cover Cracking and leaking oil
2) Wiring loom to the rear lights breaking up causing number plate lights to stop working
3) ABS Computer Failure
3) Lamda Sensor failing
3) Crankcase breather blocking
3) Vanos units needing replacement
3) Coil packs packing in.
3) Seat occupancy /seat Belt Sensor failing
3) Aircon pipe leaking
3) Key fob battery failing and needing new key coded
3) cup holder breaking x2
E39's are great - once you've fixed all the problems..
I owned one for six years, the loom needed repairing (easy to solder some staggered jumpers in) and the rocker cover gasket hardened.I'm going to number these in teh priority I would assign to them 1 meaning "now" 3 meaning "sometime in the future"
1) Viscous Clutch and Fan Failure
1) Radiator Pack Failure
1) Rust in the jacking points leading to MOT failure (take the jacking pads out and have a good look)
1) Rust in the rear panel behind the bumper creeping up into the rear trim strip blow the boot shut
1) Rust in the bootlid
2) Rocker Cover Cracking and leaking oil
2) Wiring loom to the rear lights breaking up causing number plate lights to stop working
3) ABS Computer Failure
3) Lamda Sensor failing
3) Crankcase breather blocking
3) Vanos units needing replacement
3) Coil packs packing in.
3) Seat occupancy /seat Belt Sensor failing
3) Aircon pipe leaking
3) Key fob battery failing and needing new key coded
3) cup holder breaking x2
E39's are great - once you've fixed all the problems..
I had all this happen to me in 1 year (2015) - these are common faults on an e39 of this age and like any BMW if its a common fault it is common that it will happen to you.
hman said:
WinstonWolf said:
hman said:
having owned one I'd be saving your pennies for the following to happen (because unless fixed already then this is around the corner for you)
I'm going to number these in teh priority I would assign to them 1 meaning "now" 3 meaning "sometime in the future"
1) Viscous Clutch and Fan Failure
1) Radiator Pack Failure
1) Rust in the jacking points leading to MOT failure (take the jacking pads out and have a good look)
1) Rust in the rear panel behind the bumper creeping up into the rear trim strip blow the boot shut
1) Rust in the bootlid
2) Rocker Cover Cracking and leaking oil
2) Wiring loom to the rear lights breaking up causing number plate lights to stop working
3) ABS Computer Failure
3) Lamda Sensor failing
3) Crankcase breather blocking
3) Vanos units needing replacement
3) Coil packs packing in.
3) Seat occupancy /seat Belt Sensor failing
3) Aircon pipe leaking
3) Key fob battery failing and needing new key coded
3) cup holder breaking x2
E39's are great - once you've fixed all the problems..
I owned one for six years, the loom needed repairing (easy to solder some staggered jumpers in) and the rocker cover gasket hardened.I'm going to number these in teh priority I would assign to them 1 meaning "now" 3 meaning "sometime in the future"
1) Viscous Clutch and Fan Failure
1) Radiator Pack Failure
1) Rust in the jacking points leading to MOT failure (take the jacking pads out and have a good look)
1) Rust in the rear panel behind the bumper creeping up into the rear trim strip blow the boot shut
1) Rust in the bootlid
2) Rocker Cover Cracking and leaking oil
2) Wiring loom to the rear lights breaking up causing number plate lights to stop working
3) ABS Computer Failure
3) Lamda Sensor failing
3) Crankcase breather blocking
3) Vanos units needing replacement
3) Coil packs packing in.
3) Seat occupancy /seat Belt Sensor failing
3) Aircon pipe leaking
3) Key fob battery failing and needing new key coded
3) cup holder breaking x2
E39's are great - once you've fixed all the problems..
I had all this happen to me in 1 year (2015) - these are common faults on an e39 of this age and like any BMW if its a common fault it is common that it will happen to you.
Mine cost me about £500 per year all in, including tyres/MOT etc.
hman said:
having owned one I'd be saving your pennies for the following to happen (because unless fixed already then this is around the corner for you)
I'm going to number these in teh priority I would assign to them 1 meaning "now" 3 meaning "sometime in the future"
1) Viscous Clutch and Fan Failure
1) Radiator Pack Failure
1) Rust in the jacking points leading to MOT failure (take the jacking pads out and have a good look)
1) Rust in the rear panel behind the bumper creeping up into the rear trim strip blow the boot shut
1) Rust in the bootlid
2) Rocker Cover Cracking and leaking oil
2) Wiring loom to the rear lights breaking up causing number plate lights to stop working
3) ABS Computer Failure
3) Lamda Sensor failing
3) Crankcase breather blocking
3) Vanos units needing replacement
3) Coil packs packing in.
3) Seat occupancy /seat Belt Sensor failing
3) Aircon pipe leaking
3) Key fob battery failing and needing new key coded
3) cup holder breaking x2
E39's are great - once you've fixed all the problems..
I've been very lucky then. Owned an older e39 for a few years with none of these issues except some minor things with cooling systemI'm going to number these in teh priority I would assign to them 1 meaning "now" 3 meaning "sometime in the future"
1) Viscous Clutch and Fan Failure
1) Radiator Pack Failure
1) Rust in the jacking points leading to MOT failure (take the jacking pads out and have a good look)
1) Rust in the rear panel behind the bumper creeping up into the rear trim strip blow the boot shut
1) Rust in the bootlid
2) Rocker Cover Cracking and leaking oil
2) Wiring loom to the rear lights breaking up causing number plate lights to stop working
3) ABS Computer Failure
3) Lamda Sensor failing
3) Crankcase breather blocking
3) Vanos units needing replacement
3) Coil packs packing in.
3) Seat occupancy /seat Belt Sensor failing
3) Aircon pipe leaking
3) Key fob battery failing and needing new key coded
3) cup holder breaking x2
E39's are great - once you've fixed all the problems..
On my E39, the pipes going to the washer jets on the bonnet were disconnected, the sound deadening on the inside of the bonnet was soaked. It was also duck taped on, so clearly happened before.
I pushed the pipes all back together and put a cable tie on, it's been great since.
Only other mod I've done is a headunit change, to some generic Chinese android unit, it was around £260 on Amazon and well worth it to bring tech functionality up to date.
I pushed the pipes all back together and put a cable tie on, it's been great since.
Only other mod I've done is a headunit change, to some generic Chinese android unit, it was around £260 on Amazon and well worth it to bring tech functionality up to date.
to3m said:
I've seen a few posts from people who've bought Land Rover ones and filed a couple of tabs off to make them fit. Don't know how reliable these are in the long run, but the BMW ones seem hit or miss enough, at least on the E46. The rear bumper isn't the kindest place for electronic stuff exposed to the elements of course...
From what I have seen regarding the E46 the rear sensors from BMW are fine. But the aftermarket ones rarely work. They can be made to work if they are placed on the inside but TBH even my mate's 328i's inners have gone iffy (they claim something is always there according to INPA).Edited by to3m on Friday 21st July 11:03
The sensors however don't like too much paint on them, irrespective of the source.
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