E92 sh*t itself - No ABS, DSC, FTM, Start assistance etc.

E92 sh*t itself - No ABS, DSC, FTM, Start assistance etc.

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Discussion

anonymous-user

Original Poster:

53 months

Saturday 22nd July 2017
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[redacted]

Odhran

579 posts

182 months

Saturday 22nd July 2017
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Sounds daft but could it be a battery related issue?

_Rich_

966 posts

171 months

Saturday 22nd July 2017
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Sounds similar to what i had.

If like me and also you brake whilst the wheel is slightly turned and the ABS kicks in, its a sensor cost me roughly £130 at a specialist. Took about 30 mins to replace.

Sticks.

8,707 posts

250 months

Saturday 22nd July 2017
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Iirc the similar prob with my Z4, 3 lights = ABS sensor, 4 = steering alignment sensor.

I'd check the battery before anything else though, even if it seems OK.

Worth checking this too. https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

Sticks.

8,707 posts

250 months

Saturday 22nd July 2017
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How old's the battery? When the original battery on my Z4 went flat, I still had issues after it'd been re-charged.

Sounds like you'll need a diagnostic check tbh rather before spending money.

It could be a sensor which has stuck. I've read that you can reset the steering wheel alignment sensor fairly simply, but not tried it myself.

mikeyscott

1,200 posts

207 months

Saturday 22nd July 2017
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Wheel speed sensor I expect, I've had this recently three times

335d

758 posts

117 months

Saturday 22nd July 2017
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I put my F10 520d on a rolling road after fitting the official performance power kit in 2012. Driving away from the rolling road I must have had virtually every warning message, including most/all of the ones you mention.

I stopped the car and restarted it and the errors never reoccurred over the next 2 years of ownership. The car just seemed to have some kind of stroke on the rolling road. Very odd, but if it doesn't recurr it could just be a blip.

335d

758 posts

117 months

Sunday 23rd July 2017
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I imagine that in my case on the rolling road, the ABS sensors were getting some very confusing data - the rear wheels doing say 130mph, and the fronts zero. Not quite sure how this led to such a varied array of apparently unrelated warnings, but it would encourage me to look at the ABS sensors in your situation.

Sticks.

8,707 posts

250 months

Sunday 23rd July 2017
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I think my battery was 8 years old. If you're keeping the car it could be worth changing.

See what the diagnostics says first though maybe. If the car's in regular use from now it might be OK.

bigalx

135 posts

119 months

Monday 24th July 2017
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I have an 2005 E90 330i and have the exact same thing as you - all those lights and no cruise control.

like you my battery is certainly not new so probably is due a change but I have just turned it off and back on for it to go until a few weeks or so when it randomly pops up. Pain in the ar$e but wasn't looking to spend money to be told I had a problem so in truth watching this with interest to see what you find out since new control modules and alike means paying for them to be coded to the car as well, which is probably a 2 minute job to be charges an hour plus VAT!

Good luck

Username...

95 posts

80 months

Monday 24th July 2017
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I just posted my experience of a similar situation in another discussion. Here's a copy and paste:

I had this issue on my E90 3 series. My symptoms being that DTC would occasionally cut in when driving on an incline. Eventually it got worse and for a short time I was able to get around it by switching DTC off, but that's not ideal in winter!

I suspected the wheel speed sensors to be at fault, so as the car is rear wheel drive I had a poke around there first. Sure enough, the face of one of the sensors had worn away matching the curvature of the reluctor ring on the drive shaft. The shaft showed some corrosion, so I thought perhaps this had caused the reluctor ring to expand until it made contact and wore the face of the sensor away.

BMW and local independents wanted several £££'s to supply new driveshafts, rings and sensors but as the car is 10 years old and has 150k miles on the clock I wasn't interested in spending that kind of money if I could help it.

@mikeyscott It seems weird to me that a garage would just fit a new sensor without any thought, because obviously in a very short amount of time the new sensor will wear and you will get the same fault. It's no wonder you're on your 3rd sensor!

The most cost effective solution seems to be this:

1. Buy new sensor.
2. On the body of both new and old sensors, use a vernier caliper measure distance between mounting face & sensor face. There will be a small difference due to wear on old sensor, let's say this is 1mm.
3. Install the new sensor, but use some shim (M5 washer may do) to space the sensor away by 1mm + 0.5mm additional clearance. This will ensure a gap of 0.5mm between sensor and ring.
4. Take it for a drive and after a short distance, the warning light should disappear.

This worked for me; the DTC works absolutely fine and I haven't had a warning light in 2 years. A year later the same fault happened but on the far side of the car and I fixed it again the very same way.

The cost is only the price of a new sensor and it takes less than an hour to fix.

Username...

95 posts

80 months

Monday 24th July 2017
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Yes, the wheel speed sensor is the same as the ABS sensor. The same sensor simply measures the speed of the driveshaft to detect if the wheel is slipping (DTC) or locking (ABS).

I didn't bother getting a diagnostic done, because the source of the problem seemed pretty obvious having seen how worn the sensor was. I just took a punt. As mentioned, this fixed it for me.

I since bought an OBD2 scanner widget which connects to my phone. My car is clear of error codes.

Hope that helps.

Eddieslofart

1,328 posts

82 months

Monday 24th July 2017
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anonymous said:
[redacted]
Excellent Garage.

T5SOR

1,991 posts

224 months

Monday 24th July 2017
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Interesting thread. My E91 has just done similar this morning.

I started the car and it was a but lumpy. Drove up the road and all warning lights came on (DTC, Tyre Pressure, Fuel Pump, everything). Then the car died and wouldn't start. I pushed it home and had a look at things. I disconnected the battery for an hour an it started well and was lumpy, but working. Drove it up the road and it died again. After pushing it to the local garage it is now there for them to look at.

Looking online I changed the DDE Relay, but still no better. I'm not sure what the garage will find, but worth a look.

I think it may be water in the electrics after the last few days rain.

Now drinking wine as I am knackered!

Huff

3,141 posts

190 months

Monday 24th July 2017
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Just re: code readers - these are becoming so cheap and so usable, there's no reason not to.

I use an EML327-to-wifi clone (£15 on amazon) and Dashboard on my iphone (works fine on ipad too) and it's brilliant; access to much running data, ability to create custom gauges for any parameter available on the live OBD2 data, and there are hundreds (I have, for example, a screen set up with dial-type gauges for battery voltage and coolant temp, amongst several others.) It will also read the diagnostics, including codes incipient - registered and monitored by the engine management but not setting or causing EMLs - thousands of teh damn things - and you can clear them too, if you wish.


tl;dr:
EML327 clone obd2-bluetooth or wifi dongle, and an app on your phone (Torque on android, Dashboard on iOS) and you have 95% of what you want for c. £22-25. You can use it on any post 2001 car. Staggering functionality, so cheap it's not worth not having, IMO..

Silverbullet767

10,680 posts

205 months

Tuesday 25th July 2017
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My thread has arrived! Mine has this fault.

Done alot of digging. My fault codes read by the Carly app were.

005DF0, Pump motor faulty
005DF1, Pump motor connector damaged

ABS warning on the dash, knocks out ABS, Stability control, Cruise control, start assist.

99% of the time with those codes, this is due to the pump motor brushes 'sticking' open, not making contact with the motor and throwing a code, a replacement unit from BMW is around £2500, but they can be repaired for just over £240 here.

http://www.ecutesting.com/catalogue/product/bmw_3_...

Only problem being you have to send your unit in and wait until it gets repaired before re-fitting, so your car will be off the road for a while. I'm sending mine in this week.

If your car is a 4 cylinder car they do a repair kit (consisting of the pump and the mechanical part) but curiously not for the 6 cyl. models. It's all or nothing.

T5SOR

1,991 posts

224 months

Tuesday 25th July 2017
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It seems my ECU was sat in a puddle of water and is now dead! Refurb required ASAP.

I am going to use BW ChipTune and get it coded to my car. What a pain in the RS.

Sticks.

8,707 posts

250 months

Thursday 3rd August 2017
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That's good, fingers crossed. You said it had been sat for a few weeks, so maybe that was it.

Silverbullet767

10,680 posts

205 months

Monday 7th August 2017
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Update to my fault. Got the refurbished unit back, fitted and working great. No faults. 10% of the price of a new unit!

Swervin_Mervin

4,429 posts

237 months

Monday 7th August 2017
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Huff said:
Just re: code readers - these are becoming so cheap and so usable, there's no reason not to.

I use an EML327-to-wifi clone (£15 on amazon) and Dashboard on my iphone (works fine on ipad too) and it's brilliant; access to much running data, ability to create custom gauges for any parameter available on the live OBD2 data, and there are hundreds (I have, for example, a screen set up with dial-type gauges for battery voltage and coolant temp, amongst several others.) It will also read the diagnostics, including codes incipient - registered and monitored by the engine management but not setting or causing EMLs - thousands of teh damn things - and you can clear them too, if you wish.


tl;dr:
EML327 clone obd2-bluetooth or wifi dongle, and an app on your phone (Torque on android, Dashboard on iOS) and you have 95% of what you want for c. £22-25. You can use it on any post 2001 car. Staggering functionality, so cheap it's not worth not having, IMO..
What re codes incipient? Are these different to normal fault codes logged?

I ask as I have an issue with my N52 330i with hesitation at low speeds - specifically you go to put your foot down sometimes (and it is very occasional) and it's like the power is cut. Google brings the issue up as a not uncommon issue, but without seemingly anyone having found a resolution. No codes are logged.

I'm hoping you're going to tell me it's the kind of fault which might well be flagged up somewhere in the system and that can be read though.