E91 Straight Six Bearding
Discussion
ATM said:
N53
Looks like an SE with sports seats
And it looks like they aren't original, as it seems to have the extended storage options around the car, apart from the nets that come on the back of the seats as part of that!Looks like an SE with sports seats
(It seems many year with a BMW turns you into a BMW nerd doesn't it!)
Also a shame that the N53 engine version comes with EPAS..
RSTurboPaul said:
Thanks for the replies re: the ECU drowning, gents!
You had a look?Swervin_Mervin said:
RSTurboPaul said:
Swervin_Mervin said:
Does anyone have an idea of the current going rate for the larger DISA valve from BMW?
I don't - but I would recommend sitting down whenever ringing a Main Dealer 
E-numbers said:
Here’s one for you. I was failing to resolve a low brake vacuum issue on the venerable 325i and noticed that an earth strap was hanging loose. Anyone know where it should be connected to?
Thanks!
I'm pretty sure that's an earth from the chassis/body to the engine block. I can take a photo on mine later if you want?Thanks!
E-numbers said:
zippyonline said:
I'm pretty sure that's an earth from the chassis/body to the engine block. I can take a photo on mine later if you want?
Ooh, thanks, that would be very helpful. So I don’t attach it to the cam chain, or steering column or something. 
And where on the engine it goes. Either you've lost a bolt of the crimp!
Swervin_Mervin said:
From everything I've read the biggest issue with removing the inlet manifold is not that it's tricky but more the risk of the various brittle plastic pipes breaking.
I might skip the smaller one tbh. Especially if they're £300 a pop from BMW
I've got quite a bit of a shopping list as it is.
Here you go Swervin. I changed my small DISA (actually I've had it in/out the car 3 times, once because I installed a "repair kit" - but that failed coz I was never able to get the back of the DISA to stick back on.... (you had to split the disa which involved getting the welded plastic bit apart, and no adhesive was ever good enough to replicate it...), so it lost one of it's cogs when the back fell off, so I fixed that and tried an alternative method of keeping the back on and it didn't work - so I bought a proper BMW small DISA.I might skip the smaller one tbh. Especially if they're £300 a pop from BMW
I've got quite a bit of a shopping list as it is.Anyway, photo for reference, you can make enough space if you basically take out the airbox (i think that electrical connector is the MAF you need to undo), undo the bolts for the power steering reservoir and just move it out the way. Then undo the bolts for the inlet manifold, and that gives you enough movement that you can move it enough without removing it or any of the PCV arrangement inside. I geuinely reckon I could do it in under 30 minutes despite it being almost 8 years ago since I did it - it's not as difficult as that photo makes out. You are working sorta blind undoing the disa bolts - but it's easy blind working if that makes sense.
Let’s play some storytime catch up with the car. It’s a bit of a jumbled mess in sortof chronological order, but that’s how it is!
So at the event (bicycle MTB thing, car gets parked in a field for a couple of days) where my pad wear sensor had a meltdown in 2022, I drove out of the same event in 2023, pressed the brakes for the first time at a slow speed and the ABS just kicked in and it took forever to stop – fortunately I didn’t really need to! I drove gingerly a bit and tested the brakes, seemed ok but the speedo looked out. Stopped and restarted the car, first brake it did it again…then the ABS lights all came up and normal braking resumed. Then it fixed itself a little while later and the dash lights went, and I was able to drive home with cruise control. The next day ABS kicked in at low speed (this is really un nerving) and the ABS lights etc. came on..and the car was fine – actually it was really nice to drive because it was not doing any pre-emptive braking and deceleration things – it was super consistent and nice to drive, just no ABS or Traction Control (no problems really tbh), but no cruise control either. So the dash looked like this.
Fired up ISTA, and got this:
Now I’ll go through every single one of these fault/shadow codes and how they were fixed. The IHKAelectric auxiliary heater one I’ve already explained with the incorrect/not coded IHKA module and my battery drain saga. All the DSC and message error ones are it appears to be because of a wheel speed sensor…but could be the ABS/DSC module itself. It said Left hand rear sensor – so I swapped left and right rear sensors - and the fault code followed, therefore it’s the sensor. So I ordered 2 sensors (one spare, coz they’re a consumable right). ATE definitely appear to be OE, they literally had the BMW logo ground off, winner!
Funnily enough, this episode sortof repeated itself quite recently (Feb 2025) for the other wheel speed sensor (but this time the car wanted to rev itself too as well as always ABS whilst it was getting duff wheel speed signal thinking it was correct). So in very little time I swapped the other one out with a new one – glad I bought 2 sensors back in 2023!
Moving down the fault codes, we have the AUC sensor. Some parts cross referencing later, and I bought one from an M5!
The alarm module battery depleted code, I’d had that for ages and not worried about it…no idea why the mileage reading on it is more than the car…anyway when I had the battery drain issues, allegedly the alarm module depleting them was a known thing. So I went and had a look – obviously it went off in my ear the moment I unplugged it from the car! I opened it up hoping to find a corroded mess and the answer to my battery drain, but it was fine – as evidenced by going off in my ear, as were the batteries when tested with the multimeter, but I put new ones in anyway, and popped it back in the wheel arch. The fault code has not reappeared.
So at the event (bicycle MTB thing, car gets parked in a field for a couple of days) where my pad wear sensor had a meltdown in 2022, I drove out of the same event in 2023, pressed the brakes for the first time at a slow speed and the ABS just kicked in and it took forever to stop – fortunately I didn’t really need to! I drove gingerly a bit and tested the brakes, seemed ok but the speedo looked out. Stopped and restarted the car, first brake it did it again…then the ABS lights all came up and normal braking resumed. Then it fixed itself a little while later and the dash lights went, and I was able to drive home with cruise control. The next day ABS kicked in at low speed (this is really un nerving) and the ABS lights etc. came on..and the car was fine – actually it was really nice to drive because it was not doing any pre-emptive braking and deceleration things – it was super consistent and nice to drive, just no ABS or Traction Control (no problems really tbh), but no cruise control either. So the dash looked like this.
Fired up ISTA, and got this:
Now I’ll go through every single one of these fault/shadow codes and how they were fixed. The IHKAelectric auxiliary heater one I’ve already explained with the incorrect/not coded IHKA module and my battery drain saga. All the DSC and message error ones are it appears to be because of a wheel speed sensor…but could be the ABS/DSC module itself. It said Left hand rear sensor – so I swapped left and right rear sensors - and the fault code followed, therefore it’s the sensor. So I ordered 2 sensors (one spare, coz they’re a consumable right). ATE definitely appear to be OE, they literally had the BMW logo ground off, winner!
Funnily enough, this episode sortof repeated itself quite recently (Feb 2025) for the other wheel speed sensor (but this time the car wanted to rev itself too as well as always ABS whilst it was getting duff wheel speed signal thinking it was correct). So in very little time I swapped the other one out with a new one – glad I bought 2 sensors back in 2023!
Moving down the fault codes, we have the AUC sensor. Some parts cross referencing later, and I bought one from an M5!
The alarm module battery depleted code, I’d had that for ages and not worried about it…no idea why the mileage reading on it is more than the car…anyway when I had the battery drain issues, allegedly the alarm module depleting them was a known thing. So I went and had a look – obviously it went off in my ear the moment I unplugged it from the car! I opened it up hoping to find a corroded mess and the answer to my battery drain, but it was fine – as evidenced by going off in my ear, as were the batteries when tested with the multimeter, but I put new ones in anyway, and popped it back in the wheel arch. The fault code has not reappeared.
Another fault code I had – but no photos to go along, but one that might be handy for information. I had one for shadow codes A6CB and A6CA, JBE windscreen wiper relay errors. I replaced relay with latest version 61 366980177, which from memory was blue, and the original ones are green (or maybe the other way round)– seems BMW found out about this and updated it for LCI models or something. I was quite impressed the computer spotted this. I’d noticed that my windscreen wipers would “park” a little bit higher than you’d expect, when researching this is a tell tale sign of a failing relay. When fitted, wipers parked in the normal position and the wipe was smoother than before!
More maintenance occurred (October ’23), needed some new discs and pads, opted for “Brembo Xtra” pads and the posh Zimmerman option for the 340mm discs.
Whilst the wheel was off I decided I’d treat the Xenons to some new bulbs as I’d never changed them and I felt they were starting to maybe lack performance.
It’s fun though the postage stamp hole isn’t it! I think I took the arch liner out on the other one as I got bored.
Gratuit Style 216 Wheels, floating centre caps & 340mm discs and brembo 4 pot photo.
More maintenance occurred (October ’23), needed some new discs and pads, opted for “Brembo Xtra” pads and the posh Zimmerman option for the 340mm discs.
Whilst the wheel was off I decided I’d treat the Xenons to some new bulbs as I’d never changed them and I felt they were starting to maybe lack performance.
It’s fun though the postage stamp hole isn’t it! I think I took the arch liner out on the other one as I got bored.
Gratuit Style 216 Wheels, floating centre caps & 340mm discs and brembo 4 pot photo.
bodhi said:
On the wheel speed sensor, I had exactly the same issue with my E82, except it was on the front wheel. Same symptoms - ABS cutting in at low speed, otherwise fine. Think we fitted a Bosch which was described as OEM, didn't fit it myself so not sure how accurate that is.
Also - that's an impressive mileage total! Not far off the distance to the moon?
I'm way past moon miles, I'll show you in a few posts time!Also - that's an impressive mileage total! Not far off the distance to the moon?
RSTurboPaul said:
JakeT said:
A reasonable garage could have it done in a morning. BMW racks aren’t hard. Undo the lines, TREs, steering column and two bolts. Then it slides out. I did one on a 130i in 3-4 hours, though it was an EPAS rack.
Thanks very much! 
Access to most stuff in the engine bay isn't that mental considering the size of the engine - longitudinal is good!
More just stuff.
I’ve taken to “winterising” the car to try and give the car a fighting chance of getting through winter nicely. (Basically Bilt Hamber Dynas S50 and UC, Some BH atom-mac to nautralise anything and creep more into crevices neutralising things
It really does help, I kinda wish I'd done this every year as opposed to every so often. Changing between winter/summer wheels is a good way of doing it, but I've only had 2 sets of wheels the last few years.
I’ve obviously done many many oil and filter changes over the years, at some point recently I got myself a 3D printer and discovered someone had made a N52 oil filling funnel with vent – literally slots into the oil fill hole. Nice! (Photo from when I still hadn’t worked out the battery drain and constantly had a charged attached to it when parked!)
January 2024, I fitted some new front wheel bearings, they were the originals I took off and had done over 240k miles, so fair enough.
I’ve taken to “winterising” the car to try and give the car a fighting chance of getting through winter nicely. (Basically Bilt Hamber Dynas S50 and UC, Some BH atom-mac to nautralise anything and creep more into crevices neutralising things
It really does help, I kinda wish I'd done this every year as opposed to every so often. Changing between winter/summer wheels is a good way of doing it, but I've only had 2 sets of wheels the last few years.
I’ve obviously done many many oil and filter changes over the years, at some point recently I got myself a 3D printer and discovered someone had made a N52 oil filling funnel with vent – literally slots into the oil fill hole. Nice! (Photo from when I still hadn’t worked out the battery drain and constantly had a charged attached to it when parked!)
January 2024, I fitted some new front wheel bearings, they were the originals I took off and had done over 240k miles, so fair enough.
helix403 said:
Good work. How do find the front Brembos? Pedal feel etc.
Yeah, pretty good. I remember a nice pedal feel nice consistent stopping when I put them on...but I was on old tired cheapo discs/pads when I did that + I bled the system...so it may not be a fair comparison. And obviously new discs + pads again and fresh fluid made it feel nicer again...But yeah, pedal feel etc. all nice, I'd done a lot of reading and happy it's all within design tolerances.
Swervin_Mervin said:
So the question is - if you could get hold of a new OE unit, even if it's only for one side, would you? i.e. if there's a risk that there won't be anymore made
If you're sure it's a keeper, yeah for sure. Mine are quite pricey Xenons though....so I would think twice!JakeT said:
Swervin_Mervin said:
Ooh. Now I hadn't thought about facelift version...That would presumably have the angel eyes? Mine are halogen units btw
They do, yes. I think they’re a simple enough swap. I’ve got them fitted to my early car too. Court_S said:
zippyonline said:
Here you go Swervin. I changed my small DISA (actually I've had it in/out the car 3 times, once because I installed a "repair kit" - but that failed coz I was never able to get the back of the DISA to stick back on.... (you had to split the disa which involved getting the welded plastic bit apart, and no adhesive was ever good enough to replicate it...), so it lost one of it's cogs when the back fell off, so I fixed that and tried an alternative method of keeping the back on and it didn't work - so I bought a proper BMW small DISA.
Anyway, photo for reference, you can make enough space if you basically take out the airbox (i think that electrical connector is the MAF you need to undo), undo the bolts for the power steering reservoir and just move it out the way. Then undo the bolts for the inlet manifold, and that gives you enough movement that you can move it enough without removing it or any of the PCV arrangement inside. I geuinely reckon I could do it in under 30 minutes despite it being almost 8 years ago since I did it - it's not as difficult as that photo makes out. You are working sorta blind undoing the disa bolts - but it's easy blind working if that makes sense.
That’s really useful to know. I’ve got to replace the small DISA on my Z4; it’s not fallen apart because I can hear it clunk shut when putting the ignition to position two, but it is rattling on idle. I’ve bought a replacement that I need to fit. I was setting some decent time aside to remove the whole intake manifold but if I can do it that way, it should be quicker.Anyway, photo for reference, you can make enough space if you basically take out the airbox (i think that electrical connector is the MAF you need to undo), undo the bolts for the power steering reservoir and just move it out the way. Then undo the bolts for the inlet manifold, and that gives you enough movement that you can move it enough without removing it or any of the PCV arrangement inside. I geuinely reckon I could do it in under 30 minutes despite it being almost 8 years ago since I did it - it's not as difficult as that photo makes out. You are working sorta blind undoing the disa bolts - but it's easy blind working if that makes sense.
I’ve seen a video of it being done with the alternator removed, but getting to the tensioner on my Z4 is hardy than on other cars because of the cover over the rad.
The small DISA failing you can really feel it with the power delivery - car feels like it has vtec with all the power at the top rather than the smooth power throughout the revs. I also had shadow codes on ISTA for it.
Court_S said:
zippyonline said:
No problem.
The small DISA failing you can really feel it with the power delivery - car feels like it has vtec with all the power at the top rather than the smooth power throughout the revs. I also had shadow codes on ISTA for it.
Sounds a bit like my Z4; it feels much less linear than my wife’s 330i.The small DISA failing you can really feel it with the power delivery - car feels like it has vtec with all the power at the top rather than the smooth power throughout the revs. I also had shadow codes on ISTA for it.
Swervin_Mervin said:
twokcc said:
Swervin_Mervin said:
Just about to order a 2nd hand lower cabin filter housing as well - all the clips for the engine wiring harness are broken on mine so it's currently resting on the engine cover! Bit pricey from BMW so hopefully the one I've found on ebay is decent.
New one on ebay for about $35 but secondhand about 5-20https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/286052563898
believe is same part no
Same problem on my E88 125I problem is cant figure out how to fit it to the scuttle-anyone got any ideas ot tips
My cable harness holder, one of them, just one clip has been broken since I had it, seems pretty common looking at most E9X's and the cable is kept all out of the way...so I've just left it. You have to be a BMW nerd to spot it....
helix403 said:
RSTurboPaul said:
They do look ace on big wheels
Is that standard MSport suspension height? I am wondering what the differences are between the SE setup and the MSport setup, other than the latter being a bit lower. Does MSport kit stop it being a comfortable ride or just tighten the handling up so it's not boat-y? lol
I presume one could just swap an SE setup for an MSport setup or a custom Bilstein (B8?) setup to one's taste?
I’m on Bird’s suspension, a little lower than M Sport. SE and Sport suspension are interchangeable. I think the sport may have thicker arbs too. You can check on realoem. I found the B8 and standard sport suspension both uncomfortable.Is that standard MSport suspension height? I am wondering what the differences are between the SE setup and the MSport setup, other than the latter being a bit lower. Does MSport kit stop it being a comfortable ride or just tighten the handling up so it's not boat-y? lol
I presume one could just swap an SE setup for an MSport setup or a custom Bilstein (B8?) setup to one's taste?
beambeam1 said:
Sorry for the long copy/paste job from my old E91 thread but tackled this almost 5 years ago and always feel that it is useful to share when I see this issue crop up.
It's quite impressive how the source of that is simply not emptying the leaves every so often out of the leaf guards! That's pretty simple maintenance really...More stuff....
Some time back in 2017, my drivers side wing mirror got smashed by a motorcyclist riding down the centre line and I couldn’t move any further left…no idea they they were there (I do also ride motorcycles). This was when I discovered that I had quite a rare spec mirror, they power shadowline, powerfold and auto-dimming. The auto-dimming glass alone new from BMW was eye watering money, and I needed a mirror quickly. Actually all I neede was an outer coloured case and the mirror glass itself, the rest was broadly unscathed. Given that, I put in a boggo ebay piece of mirror glass which is just heated and taped up the 4 pin connector – so no heating (that’s the other error code on the ista error page further back). I rolled with that until literally the other month, despite having in the meantime sourcing a new second hand piece of auto-dimming mirror glass! I never really missed the anti-dazzle or heating (I did sometimes have to wipe the mirror clear on a frosty or damp morning, that’s all).
What prompted me to do this was that my passenger side auto-dimming mirror has started to age out, and it actually got flagged at the MOT – which happened to be on a cold misty morning when it was at it’s worst – it wasn’t so bad when warm and sunny! So I sourced an auto-dimming one off the ebay…and er, yeah that had also started to fail and I cracked it getting it off…
So rather than spend silly money on auto-dimming glass, I spent £8.60 or so on ebays finest generic new heated mirror glass (having resigned myself that anything second hand by now will be failing in the same way). But this time I made a “harness adaptor” so it was at least heated like it should be! And this is modernising the cars right, the newer F series with anti-dazzle side mirrors only does the anti-dazzle on the drivers side...
Some time back in 2017, my drivers side wing mirror got smashed by a motorcyclist riding down the centre line and I couldn’t move any further left…no idea they they were there (I do also ride motorcycles). This was when I discovered that I had quite a rare spec mirror, they power shadowline, powerfold and auto-dimming. The auto-dimming glass alone new from BMW was eye watering money, and I needed a mirror quickly. Actually all I neede was an outer coloured case and the mirror glass itself, the rest was broadly unscathed. Given that, I put in a boggo ebay piece of mirror glass which is just heated and taped up the 4 pin connector – so no heating (that’s the other error code on the ista error page further back). I rolled with that until literally the other month, despite having in the meantime sourcing a new second hand piece of auto-dimming mirror glass! I never really missed the anti-dazzle or heating (I did sometimes have to wipe the mirror clear on a frosty or damp morning, that’s all).
What prompted me to do this was that my passenger side auto-dimming mirror has started to age out, and it actually got flagged at the MOT – which happened to be on a cold misty morning when it was at it’s worst – it wasn’t so bad when warm and sunny! So I sourced an auto-dimming one off the ebay…and er, yeah that had also started to fail and I cracked it getting it off…
So rather than spend silly money on auto-dimming glass, I spent £8.60 or so on ebays finest generic new heated mirror glass (having resigned myself that anything second hand by now will be failing in the same way). But this time I made a “harness adaptor” so it was at least heated like it should be! And this is modernising the cars right, the newer F series with anti-dazzle side mirrors only does the anti-dazzle on the drivers side...
I like to look after my cars, or try to anyway. When I was washing it way back in 2021, I noticed the first sign of a rust bubble…too late to do anything properly about it annoyingly. I’ve been really good about rust and stuff having lost my first car to it (and it teaching me to weld in the process), I’d years ago injected the dynax s50 into all the cavity holes I could and had the rear arch liners out and cleaned + sprayed the waxes – and those are all good. I never have removed the front arch liners, coz er I guess in my head they’re a replaceable panel…
I did my best to keep it clean and so it didn’t really go any further, but by this point it was limited. It was just about acceptable until this last winter which seems to have tipped it over the edge…
So I sourced myself a replacement panel, not perfect but better condition than mine. My OG panel:
Sprayed the inside edge with some BH Dynax S50 so this one is less likely to have the same fate. You’ll also notice if you’re a nerd that this panel came with more sound deadening!
Check out how big our washer bottle is! (Which also made it tricky getting to one of the bolts!
It’s a pretty good colour match, the main difference being I’d cleaned and waxed that panel vs the slightly dirty other panels.
And that brings us pretty much up to date.
I did my best to keep it clean and so it didn’t really go any further, but by this point it was limited. It was just about acceptable until this last winter which seems to have tipped it over the edge…
So I sourced myself a replacement panel, not perfect but better condition than mine. My OG panel:
Sprayed the inside edge with some BH Dynax S50 so this one is less likely to have the same fate. You’ll also notice if you’re a nerd that this panel came with more sound deadening!
Check out how big our washer bottle is! (Which also made it tricky getting to one of the bolts!
It’s a pretty good colour match, the main difference being I’d cleaned and waxed that panel vs the slightly dirty other panels.
And that brings us pretty much up to date.
preacherman said:
I'm wondering if this could be contributing to the vibration at idle, what with the flaps being closed at this point. Next step is to check the smaller valve based on the tips you guys have mentioned for access but interested to get others thoughts on how important these internal seals are to the intake.
When my large DISA went, I had a rattle that sounded like really bad valve tick, and the revs would sortof "hiccup" on idle.Mine looked like this though...
And the flap was in two parts sitting on the inlet valves....
Fortunately I found all the bits!
Obviously I needed to remove the inlet manifold to get to it all! I'd literally just got the car back on the road too after the suspension had collapsed not long after first getting the car, then a month or so later this - it was a challenging start to ownership, but hey I still have it almost 9 years later, so that tells you what I think of the car.
So yeah, if your DISA isn't quite working properly, then it could be part of vibration at idle.
Court_S said:
It’s the rear arches on my wife’s E91 that are starting to go. I’ve previously cleaned them out, applied a rust preventer and POR-15 paint but it was a bit late. The bubbles are pretty small but definitely need sorting. My Z4 needs rust dealing with as well (I’ll never buy another car that’s spent a significant amount of time by the sea….the previous owner had it for 8 years if I recall and lived in Swansea). It least all of the wings on the Z4 bolt on and off.
Yeah, rear arches I'm paranoid about being it's normally part of the main body of the car. Whenever I clean it, the arches get a proper good cleanout, and I apply the BH Dynax UC on them, and it really seems to work. It seems to protect them from stone chips, debris and crucially salt whilst also being an anti-corrosion inhibitor. I place this higher priority than things like putting the tyre dressing on and other bits you kinda need to do for your car to look nice after a wash. I've also literally just pressed buy on one of those underbody wheeled pressure washer sprayers actually!
At least on the Z4 you can actually remove panels - that's slightly more palatable. I didn't realise the rears arches were bolted on those.
RSTurboPaul said:
Thanks for the replies, gents!
Looks like it is about £1600 + VAT for the suspension struts/springs and then £851 + VAT for the ARBs (fitted prices), so about £2500 + VAT = £3k for the suspension stuff, but the Dynamics Package (that includes the above and also the Quaife LSD that's £1500 + VAT or so separately) is about £3500 + VAT fitted?
https://www.birdsauto.com/tuning/search?s=59850&am...
I'm not sure one would ever realise the whole amount back upon sale, but there is a lot to be said for enjoying mods while owning a vehicle - 'you can't take it with you' and all that!
I think the ARBs are only recommended if you fit an LSD, otherwise you should stick with stock.Looks like it is about £1600 + VAT for the suspension struts/springs and then £851 + VAT for the ARBs (fitted prices), so about £2500 + VAT = £3k for the suspension stuff, but the Dynamics Package (that includes the above and also the Quaife LSD that's £1500 + VAT or so separately) is about £3500 + VAT fitted?
https://www.birdsauto.com/tuning/search?s=59850&am...
I'm not sure one would ever realise the whole amount back upon sale, but there is a lot to be said for enjoying mods while owning a vehicle - 'you can't take it with you' and all that!
I doubt you'd see any real money back from mods or upgrades - that's normally the case and shouldn't be the reason you do it. It's more palatable if you're replacing worn stuff that needs replacing anyway as you're only paying a little bit more than you would have been anyway.
bodhi said:
Also as an aside, I've noticed a very light "tappety" noise coming from the top engine on cold starts - it soon goes away and idle is rock solid. It can occasionally be heard in town - again when the engine is cold - on the overrun. Engine is an N52B30.
Anything to worry about, or just the oil making it's way up to the valvetrain?
Anything to worry about, or just the oil making it's way up to the valvetrain?
Mr Tidy said:
I wouldn't worry about it.
"Lifter tick" is a common issue on N52 engines (I'm on my 4th now) especially if they sit unused for a few days or only get driven short distances without getting fully up to temperature.
It doesn't seem to cause any damage and will always go away after a longer drive or a bit of "Italian Tuning"!
Yeah, I agree. You've had your car a while bodhi, you know how it sounds, I'd only worry if it's suddenly got significantly worse or something out of the oridnary."Lifter tick" is a common issue on N52 engines (I'm on my 4th now) especially if they sit unused for a few days or only get driven short distances without getting fully up to temperature.
It doesn't seem to cause any damage and will always go away after a longer drive or a bit of "Italian Tuning"!
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