E91 Straight Six Bearding
Discussion
Just wondering if any of you learned E9x folk have had an issue in the past with the standard BMW Professional Head Unit? Was driving into work last week and the music stopped, and I was greeted by a Hi Temp message on the display, and it hasn't worked again since.
Does anyone know if they can be brought back to life or if I'm off to ebay to find a replacement?
Does anyone know if they can be brought back to life or if I'm off to ebay to find a replacement?
Got mine back today. New ecu as the old one was indeed confirmed as beyond redemption. They've also fitted a new ECU box, as they reckon the original was warped, hence not sealing properly. They also showed me the seals which looked like they'd had their best days a long time ago
Nothing done to the rubber grommet/drain hole underneath though - they said they've done a few of these and the issue is usually the ECU box. The heat cycling over a long time eventually warps them. You could see the tide line inside
.
Funnily enough they checked the car in a number of the usual suspect places and found it all dry as a bone, and after carrying out the oil and plugs service it was also in for, they couldn't replicate the problem. Said it felt nice and strong. Then when they arrived back and turned in the car park, engine cut out and the dash lit up. That's when they eventually traced it to the ECU box. So when it was cutting out I was turning, it was nothing to do with the engine being under load at low revs and the PAS pump throwing it all out - it was probably the water sloshing to one side in the box! That said, PAS reservoir was also getting low so that's been topped up as well.
Back to rude health. Which cannot be said for my wallet
Nothing done to the rubber grommet/drain hole underneath though - they said they've done a few of these and the issue is usually the ECU box. The heat cycling over a long time eventually warps them. You could see the tide line inside
. Funnily enough they checked the car in a number of the usual suspect places and found it all dry as a bone, and after carrying out the oil and plugs service it was also in for, they couldn't replicate the problem. Said it felt nice and strong. Then when they arrived back and turned in the car park, engine cut out and the dash lit up. That's when they eventually traced it to the ECU box. So when it was cutting out I was turning, it was nothing to do with the engine being under load at low revs and the PAS pump throwing it all out - it was probably the water sloshing to one side in the box! That said, PAS reservoir was also getting low so that's been topped up as well.
Back to rude health. Which cannot be said for my wallet
ferrisbueller said:
Has anyone put anything other than the standard Ba9S 10W (Osram 64113) bulb in the angel eyes on a Pre-LCI? LEDs?
My 55 plate 330i had a blown angel eye on the passenger side when I bought it in April, but the seller supplied it with a pair of unused LED replacements. When I started to strip out the airbox to get some access I realised why he hadn't fitted them.
Anyway I just stuck a normal bulb in because I really didn't fancy a 2nd session of dismantling.
So I have a pair of unknown but unused LED Angel Eyes for a pre-LCI 3 Series that I'd be happy to send to anyone for a few beer vouchers!
I fitted Horizon white LED's (40w) angel eyes lights on my pre-LCI 2005 330i with xenons.
They have been on for a couple of thousand miles and look really nice.
I had an issue with the light being dim at first, but that was because I hadn't initially fitted them correctly as I tried to do it without removing the wheel.
The easiest way to fit is to remove wheel, arch liners (all easy) and then you have nice access to see what you are doing, especially if you have never done it before.
This was the video tutorial I used for fitting: https://youtu.be/z-_cb_0jjRs
They have been on for a couple of thousand miles and look really nice.
I had an issue with the light being dim at first, but that was because I hadn't initially fitted them correctly as I tried to do it without removing the wheel.
The easiest way to fit is to remove wheel, arch liners (all easy) and then you have nice access to see what you are doing, especially if you have never done it before.
This was the video tutorial I used for fitting: https://youtu.be/z-_cb_0jjRs
Swervin_Mervin said:
Got mine back today. New ecu as the old one was indeed confirmed as beyond redemption. They've also fitted a new ECU box, as they reckon the original was warped, hence not sealing properly. They also showed me the seals which looked like they'd had their best days a long time ago
Nothing done to the rubber grommet/drain hole underneath though - they said they've done a few of these and the issue is usually the ECU box. The heat cycling over a long time eventually warps them. You could see the tide line inside.
Funnily enough they checked the car in a number of the usual suspect places and found it all dry as a bone, and after carrying out the oil and plugs service it was also in for, they couldn't replicate the problem. Said it felt nice and strong. Then when they arrived back and turned in the car park, engine cut out and the dash lit up. That's when they eventually traced it to the ECU box. So when it was cutting out I was turning, it was nothing to do with the engine being under load at low revs and the PAS pump throwing it all out - it was probably the water sloshing to one side in the box! That said, PAS reservoir was also getting low so that's been topped up as well.
Back to rude health. Which cannot be said for my wallet
Glad to hear you got it sorted! I had not heard of the warping of the ECU box. I do not think the box was the culprit in my situation. Out of interest, how much did it cost to get it all sorted?Nothing done to the rubber grommet/drain hole underneath though - they said they've done a few of these and the issue is usually the ECU box. The heat cycling over a long time eventually warps them. You could see the tide line inside
. Funnily enough they checked the car in a number of the usual suspect places and found it all dry as a bone, and after carrying out the oil and plugs service it was also in for, they couldn't replicate the problem. Said it felt nice and strong. Then when they arrived back and turned in the car park, engine cut out and the dash lit up. That's when they eventually traced it to the ECU box. So when it was cutting out I was turning, it was nothing to do with the engine being under load at low revs and the PAS pump throwing it all out - it was probably the water sloshing to one side in the box! That said, PAS reservoir was also getting low so that's been topped up as well.
Back to rude health. Which cannot be said for my wallet
Question for others: Over the last year my iDrive sometimes freezes and I get intermittent audio. However, in last week, the iDrive does not start up at all (screen is black, dial turns freeely). What is the most cost effective method to get this sorted?
PS: Previous Pistonhead name was JimClark49.
AmirGSXR said:
Glad to hear you got it sorted! I had not heard of the warping of the ECU box. I do not think the box was the culprit in my situation. Out of interest, how much did it cost to get it all sorted?
Question for others: Over the last year my iDrive sometimes freezes and I get intermittent audio. However, in last week, the iDrive does not start up at all (screen is black, dial turns freeely). What is the most cost effective method to get this sorted?
PS: Previous Pistonhead name was JimClark49.
I would imagine that there's places that can re-condition them for a not dreadful cost. Saving that, if you're feeling spendy, it's the ideal time for a CIC retrofit. Question for others: Over the last year my iDrive sometimes freezes and I get intermittent audio. However, in last week, the iDrive does not start up at all (screen is black, dial turns freeely). What is the most cost effective method to get this sorted?
PS: Previous Pistonhead name was JimClark49.
Mine is finally back! Delayed parcels, and sick leave for the person working on it meant it was delayed. Not had the labour bill yet, but parts were £360 in the end. That's a new compressor, tensioner, belt, and bolts that hold the compressor to the engine. They're the single use Ali jobbies.
Feels nice to have it back, and in the nick of time. Off to Spa tomorrow.
stevesuk said:
MOT day for ours today Checked all the obvious things and replaced the wiper blades - but you never know what's lurking...
These tend to be better on the MOT front than the E46. I'm sure you'll be fine! Checked all the obvious things and replaced the wiper blades - but you never know what's lurking...Edited by JakeT on Friday 8th November 08:55
JakeT said:
stevesuk said:
MOT day for ours today Checked all the obvious things and replaced the wiper blades - but you never know what's lurking...
These tend to be better on the MOT front than the E46. I'm sure you'll be fine! Checked all the obvious things and replaced the wiper blades - but you never know what's lurking...stevesuk said:
Just checked the MOT website, and happy days. Second year in a row it's passed with no advisories - quite unlike my old E46 used to behave at MOT time!
Clearly seeking attention and not being happy with a clean MOT pass... the car has decided to stop unlocking the passenger door via central locking. Only the front passenger door, and only unlocking (it locks fine).From Googling, it seems likely to be the actuator that will need replacing? Is this an expensive part/job does anyone know? Easy to DIY?
helix402 said:
Hopefully it’s the actuator, easy fix, rather than corroded pins in the drivers A pillar connection.
I've been out and had a look in the daylight today, and if you put your ear to the door, you can here the actuator operating for lock and unlock... And the pin in the top of the door card moves slightly. So I guess (hope) the actuator is being "actuated" and there's just something amiss inside it. Might have to live with it for a while... Tax is due this month too 
stevesuk said:
Clearly seeking attention and not being happy with a clean MOT pass... the car has decided to stop unlocking the passenger door via central locking. Only the front passenger door, and only unlocking (it locks fine).
From Googling, it seems likely to be the actuator that will need replacing? Is this an expensive part/job does anyone know? Easy to DIY?
My driver side stopped working and was the actuator. Took me about an hour being careful (probs a 15 minute job once you've done it once). Cost me £25 for S/H actuator off ebay from a BMW F31...From Googling, it seems likely to be the actuator that will need replacing? Is this an expensive part/job does anyone know? Easy to DIY?
I had to do the drivers door actuator my e90 M3 just after i bought it actually.
Used this guide: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47... really easy to do
Used this guide: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47... really easy to do
bodhi said:
Just wondering if any of you learned E9x folk have had an issue in the past with the standard BMW Professional Head Unit? Was driving into work last week and the music stopped, and I was greeted by a Hi Temp message on the display, and it hasn't worked again since.
Does anyone know if they can be brought back to life or if I'm off to ebay to find a replacement?
Just for reference, my Professional Head Unit has ceased to be - it is an ex unit. Dropped it off with my trusty indie, diagnosed it as an internal failure and set about finding a replacement. Found one in a scrapped 2008 3-Series, but it had a failed display - so he's taken the working display from mine, put it on the rescued one, and I have a working unit again. Does anyone know if they can be brought back to life or if I'm off to ebay to find a replacement?
Add in 2 new front tyres and a quick look at a random noise from the propshaft (age and mileage related apparently) and my wallet is quivering slightly.
stevesuk said:
Clearly seeking attention and not being happy with a clean MOT pass... the car has decided to stop unlocking the passenger door via central locking. Only the front passenger door, and only unlocking (it locks fine).
From Googling, it seems likely to be the actuator that will need replacing? Is this an expensive part/job does anyone know? Easy to DIY?
I replaced one last week on an E91. From Googling, it seems likely to be the actuator that will need replacing? Is this an expensive part/job does anyone know? Easy to DIY?
The same actuator is on nearly all cars, I bought one from a 2012 1 series. £20.
Took around 30 mins to fit it.
Door card off, put window up, take off the waterproof membrane, undo the bottom bolt on the bar and loosen top one, this gives you enough room to get the old actuator out and new one in.
Put back together.
Actuator from 2011 was improved, less likely to fail.
gizlaroc said:
I replaced one last week on an E91.
The same actuator is on nearly all cars, I bought one from a 2012 1 series. £20.
Took around 30 mins to fit it.
Interesting, I asked our usual garage (not the main dealer) for a quote yesterday - and they've come back with parts and labour figure of £320 inc. VAT - estimating 1.5 hours (and want to replace the membrane whilst they're in there). Can't afford that right now, so we're going to live with it for a while. The same actuator is on nearly all cars, I bought one from a 2012 1 series. £20.
Took around 30 mins to fit it.
Half of me is tempted to just have a crack at it myself. The other half of me has visions of bits of door mechanism all over the floor, broken trim and inoperative door locks
Got the car back last night, go to admit my indie has done a cracking job of MacGuyvering two stereos together to make a working unit, all functionality is restored and I can hear the warning beeps and parking sensors again.
We did discover that the Bluetooth Unit isn't in the Head Unit itself - as when we went to pair my phone, the ID on the display (BMW4xxxx) was showing different from before, but when the phone picked it up, it was still the old BMW5xxxx ID. Mine is an E82 but I suspect, given the stereos are the same, it will be the same story with the E9x models. Just one to keep an eye out for if you have to replace HU's.
Stereo was about £250 including two hours labour to make a working unit, add in two PS4's for the front and I owe me mate around £500. Could have done without it, but it could have been far worse.
We did discover that the Bluetooth Unit isn't in the Head Unit itself - as when we went to pair my phone, the ID on the display (BMW4xxxx) was showing different from before, but when the phone picked it up, it was still the old BMW5xxxx ID. Mine is an E82 but I suspect, given the stereos are the same, it will be the same story with the E9x models. Just one to keep an eye out for if you have to replace HU's.
Stereo was about £250 including two hours labour to make a working unit, add in two PS4's for the front and I owe me mate around £500. Could have done without it, but it could have been far worse.
Gassing Station | BMW General | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff