E91 Straight Six Bearding
Discussion
In my case I know for a fact my wheels are straight. 1 was actually new! But the garage even checked for wheels out of true (whilst I watched) and they were bang on.
I'm convinced it's the tyres. The fronts are fine, were bought at a separate time and the front wheels have previously been straightened so more likely to still be out a little.
I'm convinced it's the tyres. The fronts are fine, were bought at a separate time and the front wheels have previously been straightened so more likely to still be out a little.
st wheel balancing grips my st.
Oh, don't worry sir, you won't feel 5g. I will you knob, because that 5g might be 7.499g or even 9.999g depending on how the machine works, so get it right now otherwise you will be doing it again until you do.
When I worked in the motor trade, If I had to fit tyres, I spun up the wheel with just the valve in first, to see if it was miles out, or even straight. The machine we used could be set for 1, 5 or 10g accuracy. Some of my colleagues set to 5g and I asked, what's the point? Why not set it to 1g, and if you are happy with 5g, when it shows 5g then just say you are done. I always tried to get to 2g. Getting to 0g was a faff including cutting weights and weighing them on the paint shop digital scales.
So the annoying thing is that it is not a highly skilled task, just people can't be arsed to do it.
Oh, don't worry sir, you won't feel 5g. I will you knob, because that 5g might be 7.499g or even 9.999g depending on how the machine works, so get it right now otherwise you will be doing it again until you do.
When I worked in the motor trade, If I had to fit tyres, I spun up the wheel with just the valve in first, to see if it was miles out, or even straight. The machine we used could be set for 1, 5 or 10g accuracy. Some of my colleagues set to 5g and I asked, what's the point? Why not set it to 1g, and if you are happy with 5g, when it shows 5g then just say you are done. I always tried to get to 2g. Getting to 0g was a faff including cutting weights and weighing them on the paint shop digital scales.
So the annoying thing is that it is not a highly skilled task, just people can't be arsed to do it.
Thanks for all the replies.
I went back to my tyre place and they tried to re-balance them this morning. Both wheels required a lot of weight, one in particular over 200g. The vibration is less now, but still there.
Although the inside of the rim did not look bent to the naked eye, when looking at one spot on the rim, I could notice an 'up&down' movement as it was spinning on the balance machine. It is possible the alloys are out of true...but it could be the tyres, given that I didn't have issues with the old tyres that came off. I just do not know...
In summary, both wheels now have ALOT of weights on them, and I don't think there is much more that can be done from a balancing perspective. I may have to see how I go with it and then take it to an alloy refurbisher and ask them to check if wheel is buckled.
It's annoying to get this issue, as I need to spend money sorting out the dead iDrive CCC, and possibly replacing the electric coolant pump (I have the missing communication and thermostat inactivation codes).
I went back to my tyre place and they tried to re-balance them this morning. Both wheels required a lot of weight, one in particular over 200g. The vibration is less now, but still there.
Although the inside of the rim did not look bent to the naked eye, when looking at one spot on the rim, I could notice an 'up&down' movement as it was spinning on the balance machine. It is possible the alloys are out of true...but it could be the tyres, given that I didn't have issues with the old tyres that came off. I just do not know...
In summary, both wheels now have ALOT of weights on them, and I don't think there is much more that can be done from a balancing perspective. I may have to see how I go with it and then take it to an alloy refurbisher and ask them to check if wheel is buckled.
It's annoying to get this issue, as I need to spend money sorting out the dead iDrive CCC, and possibly replacing the electric coolant pump (I have the missing communication and thermostat inactivation codes).
An out of true wheel should be possible to balance though, unless it's especially bad. I had a v. bad front one that ultimately got repaired, but a good tyre fitter I used managed to balance it out. It sounds more like a fault with the tyre. I thought I had a lot of weights on mine but nowhere near 200g!!
Hi all,
Got an e91 320d (remapped to 225hp yo!). Not quite the E92 M3 it replaced but it does the job for 300 miles a week! Hence:
Pretty much all the shocks are on the way out so rather than pay to have all replaced was thinking whats a good entry level upgrade that improves the car over standard OEM?
Not looking to change ride height / firmness etc. Just looking for better quality damping/handling.
Cars in for MOT Tuesday so hoping to order/pickup something up today/tomorrow and free issue to indy garage doing the work.
Cheers!
Got an e91 320d (remapped to 225hp yo!). Not quite the E92 M3 it replaced but it does the job for 300 miles a week! Hence:
Pretty much all the shocks are on the way out so rather than pay to have all replaced was thinking whats a good entry level upgrade that improves the car over standard OEM?
Not looking to change ride height / firmness etc. Just looking for better quality damping/handling.
Cars in for MOT Tuesday so hoping to order/pickup something up today/tomorrow and free issue to indy garage doing the work.
Cheers!
Probably the B6 too. B4 if you're not feeling too spendy. Mine has B8 sprint dampers from Birds on the front and rear and it's quite firm.
Serviced mine again today. A little earlier than I would have like, with only about 8,700 miles covered between services. I know I've got absolutely no time between now and New Years to do it though, and December is shaping up to be a mileage heavy month. Last service was only in July!
Serviced mine again today. A little earlier than I would have like, with only about 8,700 miles covered between services. I know I've got absolutely no time between now and New Years to do it though, and December is shaping up to be a mileage heavy month. Last service was only in July!
tenmantaylor said:
Hi all,
Got an e91 320d (remapped to 225hp yo!). Not quite the E92 M3 it replaced but it does the job for 300 miles a week! Hence:
Pretty much all the shocks are on the way out so rather than pay to have all replaced was thinking whats a good entry level upgrade that improves the car over standard OEM?
Not looking to change ride height / firmness etc. Just looking for better quality damping/handling.
Cars in for MOT Tuesday so hoping to order/pickup something up today/tomorrow and free issue to indy garage doing the work.
Cheers!
I M Sport, B8, if not B6.Got an e91 320d (remapped to 225hp yo!). Not quite the E92 M3 it replaced but it does the job for 300 miles a week! Hence:
Pretty much all the shocks are on the way out so rather than pay to have all replaced was thinking whats a good entry level upgrade that improves the car over standard OEM?
Not looking to change ride height / firmness etc. Just looking for better quality damping/handling.
Cars in for MOT Tuesday so hoping to order/pickup something up today/tomorrow and free issue to indy garage doing the work.
Cheers!
I have B8s with Eibach springs. Yes it is firm, but with non-RFTs (18"), it is better than stock with RFTs.
The b12 kit is just their dampers and eibach springs which are matched - so yes both. Or have they started making their own springs now?
Normally b8 dampers are included but some kits are b6 it depends on the car. I have b12 on my 550i and that has b8 dampers.
The b8 and b6 are supposed to be similar firmness but the b8 is designed for shorter travel applications.
https://www.bilstein-shocks.co.uk/blogs/news/whats...
Normally b8 dampers are included but some kits are b6 it depends on the car. I have b12 on my 550i and that has b8 dampers.
The b8 and b6 are supposed to be similar firmness but the b8 is designed for shorter travel applications.
https://www.bilstein-shocks.co.uk/blogs/news/whats...
Mine went in last week to have the front bumper tidied up. It had been hit a couple of years ago - just a low speed parking bump i think, which had deformed the sharp creases to the left of the number plate. Wasn't that obvious so I left it but over time it started to lose paint. Along with the usual age related stone chip rash, which had got fairly bad, it just meant it was looking a bit scruffy from within 6ft or so.
I assumed it would be a new bumper skin job but no - they reckoned it was repairable to as good as new. Pretty chuffed with the end results I must say.
The only thing is those chromed bolt heads showing under each side near the splitters. I assume there should be a fixing here (I've never looked that closely) but that they should be black - looks that way looking at realoem
I assumed it would be a new bumper skin job but no - they reckoned it was repairable to as good as new. Pretty chuffed with the end results I must say.
The only thing is those chromed bolt heads showing under each side near the splitters. I assume there should be a fixing here (I've never looked that closely) but that they should be black - looks that way looking at realoem
They're probably there, you just haven't noticed them. I was the same til i picked this back upnthe other day. They've given them a good clean - they look like they've possibly been rejuvenated in some way as well (spray or heat maybe) and maybe just stand out more now against the clean new paint as well
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