E91 Straight Six Bearding
Discussion
The OEM one that I took out yesterday morning was 285x175x175. Replaced with the same. I definitely doesn't occupy the full tray. Just sounds like an issue with the clamp
ETA - that was a pain I could've done without as well. Not difficult, but I'd completely forgotten the wife was heading out yesterday morning and that I had to take the boy to swimming. It was only when stood in the shower that the penny dropped that we wouldn't be going with a flat battery and I hadn't fitted the new one yet. Managed to get it done in time, albeit rushing (which I hate when working on cars). The irony being we actually ended up getting there early!
Anyone else got any surface corrosion in their battery tray? Mearing in mind mind was the original 15yo battery I was a bit surprised to see that, unless there's a little bit of wear from the battery itself that has allowed it in. Can't understand why they don't at least fit a bit of rubber matting down there.
ETA - that was a pain I could've done without as well. Not difficult, but I'd completely forgotten the wife was heading out yesterday morning and that I had to take the boy to swimming. It was only when stood in the shower that the penny dropped that we wouldn't be going with a flat battery and I hadn't fitted the new one yet. Managed to get it done in time, albeit rushing (which I hate when working on cars). The irony being we actually ended up getting there early!
Anyone else got any surface corrosion in their battery tray? Mearing in mind mind was the original 15yo battery I was a bit surprised to see that, unless there's a little bit of wear from the battery itself that has allowed it in. Can't understand why they don't at least fit a bit of rubber matting down there.
Edited by Swervin_Mervin on Monday 5th July 15:32
JakeT said:
Last I looked I saw nothing. Has the little battery vent always been connected in your battery? The gases they create when charging can be corrosive. Or the tail light seals could have let water in.
Spot on. It’s quite a common occurrence for the battery to be changed and the vent hose binned. A few years of battery acid venting into the compartment soon strips the paint. It was very common on E36s to see holes beneath the battery.Could be the vents behind the bumper leaking too.
It was still on the original battery with the vent hose hooked up so it would seem surprising for it to be that. But having looked again it seems confined to just around the battery itself.
Only other thing I can guess is that if there's been slight movement of the battery it could have worn away at the paint enough to let moisture ingress.
Or it has been out in the past and someone's had a spill.
Only other thing I can guess is that if there's been slight movement of the battery it could have worn away at the paint enough to let moisture ingress.
Or it has been out in the past and someone's had a spill.
Edited by Swervin_Mervin on Tuesday 6th July 09:14
Swervin_Mervin said:
The OEM one that I took out yesterday morning was 285x175x175. Replaced with the same. I definitely doesn't occupy the full tray. Just sounds like an issue with the clamp
Swapped not. It wasn't an OEM battery but a Halfords job that the previous owner fitted 18 months ago. It should hopefully make a difference now as the clamp was still in place but now, with the bigger battery, it all feels a lot more secure. Will report back but thankfully had the larger size in storage taken from my parent's X3 of similar vintage. MattOz said:
That’s lovely.Annoying that all of these nice tourings have popped up after I bought my 130!
MattOz said:
Based on my recent 335d experience it may not handle too well on standard suspension, 19s and non run flats!MattOz said:
Looks very nice. SOS issue it seems, and no connected drive which is odd as it has a combox.Otherwise I’d rock that. Needs Birds suspension/Bilstein B12 fitting, mind.
JakeT said:
MattOz said:
Looks very nice. SOS issue it seems, and no connected drive which is odd as it has a combox.Otherwise I’d rock that. Needs Birds suspension/Bilstein B12 fitting, mind.
It’s a bit light on options. No upgraded audio or heated seats.
Also a shame that they didn’t put Xenons in when they did the LCI conversion.
survivalist said:
JakeT said:
MattOz said:
Looks very nice. SOS issue it seems, and no connected drive which is odd as it has a combox.Otherwise I’d rock that. Needs Birds suspension/Bilstein B12 fitting, mind.
It’s a bit light on options. No upgraded audio or heated seats.
Also a shame that they didn’t put Xenons in when they did the LCI conversion.
MattOz said:
That looks fantastic! I suppose if you want a manual E91 335i a compromise on spec may be required as there don't seem to be many around.
That's my car guys. Feel free to ask any questions.
BTW SOS message resolved so I should update the interior shot. I had to finalise a few things on the CIC retrofit after that pic was first taken.
The car is now fully coded and error free. Bluetooth and 2021 maps. No bulb out errors on the LED taillights either.
BTW SOS message resolved so I should update the interior shot. I had to finalise a few things on the CIC retrofit after that pic was first taken.
The car is now fully coded and error free. Bluetooth and 2021 maps. No bulb out errors on the LED taillights either.
Edited by ScottJB on Tuesday 13th July 22:51
Edited by ScottJB on Tuesday 13th July 23:00
Swervin_Mervin said:
JakeT said:
In a bid to get some more information out there to prevent people having a bad time with their cars, I've a suggestion to the owners here:
Lube your boot hinges.
What a revelation, I know. I always thought the bootlid on my car, and the glass were a bit stiff. I even replaced the boot struts as they didn't seem to be lifting the boot properly. New ones were better, but not ideal. Then, over the cold snap they were really stiff. The window being particularly reluctant to move. I could even see the N/S hinge flexing. I gave the hinges a shot of Lithium spray and thought that would do it. But the stiffness remained. After some reading, these hinges get dirt and moisture inside and can snap. Replacing the hinges is a sad job, the previous owner of my car has replaced one.
In light of this, I thought I'd set out to lubricate them. In this case, I spent about an hour spraying WD-40, and moving the glass back and forth. Using paper towels to catch the WD-40 and muck, a lot came out. I lubed the following areas liberally:
And for a closer look... (I need to do some more cleaning in there it seems )
The labelled points move with the glass portion. Only one hinge part moves with the bootlid. With the glass already open, the bootlid was very easy to move.
The glass did losen off eventually, and then I kept doing the above actions, and it did free off nicely. Finished off with the Lithium spray to keep further dirt and moisture out. The boot opens and shuts a lot more nicely now, as does the glass. Hopefully it should also mean I don't need to replace the boot hinges, either.
My hinges weren't too bad, but I had recently noticed the bonnet release was a little stiff. I had this post of Jake's in the back of my mind and have for a while now. Anyway, this weekend just gone I had a bit of time without being mithered so gave all of the hinges and catches a good cleaning out with WD40. Left it a day and then lubed them all up with some lithium spray as well.Lube your boot hinges.
What a revelation, I know. I always thought the bootlid on my car, and the glass were a bit stiff. I even replaced the boot struts as they didn't seem to be lifting the boot properly. New ones were better, but not ideal. Then, over the cold snap they were really stiff. The window being particularly reluctant to move. I could even see the N/S hinge flexing. I gave the hinges a shot of Lithium spray and thought that would do it. But the stiffness remained. After some reading, these hinges get dirt and moisture inside and can snap. Replacing the hinges is a sad job, the previous owner of my car has replaced one.
In light of this, I thought I'd set out to lubricate them. In this case, I spent about an hour spraying WD-40, and moving the glass back and forth. Using paper towels to catch the WD-40 and muck, a lot came out. I lubed the following areas liberally:
And for a closer look... (I need to do some more cleaning in there it seems
)The labelled points move with the glass portion. Only one hinge part moves with the bootlid. With the glass already open, the bootlid was very easy to move.
The glass did losen off eventually, and then I kept doing the above actions, and it did free off nicely. Finished off with the Lithium spray to keep further dirt and moisture out. The boot opens and shuts a lot more nicely now, as does the glass. Hopefully it should also mean I don't need to replace the boot hinges, either.
The glass in particular is now so free that it opens and closes with ridiculous ease. So not only did I nearly take my face off, I'm amazed I didnt smash it when closing it as well.
Swervin_Mervin said:
Top tip for anyone that does clean and lube their tailgate hinges, and/or also replaces the struts - mind your face when next using your boot. I've nearly taken my head off with both the full hatch and the glass this last week.
The glass in particular is now so free that it opens and closes with ridiculous ease. So not only did I nearly take my face off, I'm amazed I didnt smash it when closing it as well.
After a good clean and lube it’s really a surprising difference! It’s nice that the glass lifts on its own.The glass in particular is now so free that it opens and closes with ridiculous ease. So not only did I nearly take my face off, I'm amazed I didnt smash it when closing it as well.
I also disassembled, cleaned and lubed the rear wiper pivot too after it was getting stiff. The shaft has some corrosion and pitting that a light sand hasn’t sorted. I may order a new one soon. Also tightened up the strut brace bolts (really should get some new ones) and re-seated the connectors on the Alpine amp.
Swervin_Mervin said:
Swervin_Mervin said:
JakeT said:
In a bid to get some more information out there to prevent people having a bad time with their cars, I've a suggestion to the owners here:
Lube your boot hinges.
What a revelation, I know. I always thought the bootlid on my car, and the glass were a bit stiff. I even replaced the boot struts as they didn't seem to be lifting the boot properly. New ones were better, but not ideal. Then, over the cold snap they were really stiff. The window being particularly reluctant to move. I could even see the N/S hinge flexing. I gave the hinges a shot of Lithium spray and thought that would do it. But the stiffness remained. After some reading, these hinges get dirt and moisture inside and can snap. Replacing the hinges is a sad job, the previous owner of my car has replaced one.
In light of this, I thought I'd set out to lubricate them. In this case, I spent about an hour spraying WD-40, and moving the glass back and forth. Using paper towels to catch the WD-40 and muck, a lot came out. I lubed the following areas liberally:
And for a closer look... (I need to do some more cleaning in there it seems )
The labelled points move with the glass portion. Only one hinge part moves with the bootlid. With the glass already open, the bootlid was very easy to move.
The glass did losen off eventually, and then I kept doing the above actions, and it did free off nicely. Finished off with the Lithium spray to keep further dirt and moisture out. The boot opens and shuts a lot more nicely now, as does the glass. Hopefully it should also mean I don't need to replace the boot hinges, either.
My hinges weren't too bad, but I had recently noticed the bonnet release was a little stiff. I had this post of Jake's in the back of my mind and have for a while now. Anyway, this weekend just gone I had a bit of time without being mithered so gave all of the hinges and catches a good cleaning out with WD40. Left it a day and then lubed them all up with some lithium spray as well.Lube your boot hinges.
What a revelation, I know. I always thought the bootlid on my car, and the glass were a bit stiff. I even replaced the boot struts as they didn't seem to be lifting the boot properly. New ones were better, but not ideal. Then, over the cold snap they were really stiff. The window being particularly reluctant to move. I could even see the N/S hinge flexing. I gave the hinges a shot of Lithium spray and thought that would do it. But the stiffness remained. After some reading, these hinges get dirt and moisture inside and can snap. Replacing the hinges is a sad job, the previous owner of my car has replaced one.
In light of this, I thought I'd set out to lubricate them. In this case, I spent about an hour spraying WD-40, and moving the glass back and forth. Using paper towels to catch the WD-40 and muck, a lot came out. I lubed the following areas liberally:
And for a closer look... (I need to do some more cleaning in there it seems
)The labelled points move with the glass portion. Only one hinge part moves with the bootlid. With the glass already open, the bootlid was very easy to move.
The glass did losen off eventually, and then I kept doing the above actions, and it did free off nicely. Finished off with the Lithium spray to keep further dirt and moisture out. The boot opens and shuts a lot more nicely now, as does the glass. Hopefully it should also mean I don't need to replace the boot hinges, either.
The glass in particular is now so free that it opens and closes with ridiculous ease. So not only did I nearly take my face off, I'm amazed I didnt smash it when closing it as well.
Must make a mental note to clean/grease the hinges once a year so it doesn't happen to the new car.
Same applies for the panoramic sunroof if anyone has one of these.
Cleaned the car the other night, as it looked like a total shed (in no small part thanks to next door's stalled house renovation which includes a massive pile of building waste on the front lawn that's obvisouly blowing dust everywhere).
Anyway, the reason for the post. The headlights look like they're full of dust. Which is a p1sser. I cna't tell if it's surface pitting on the outside, or dust on the inside. Probably both knowing my luck.
They're only halogen units, but is removing them to try and hoover them out going to be a monumental ballache that I'll rue ever starting? I'm not even sure it would get everything either.
Anyway, the reason for the post. The headlights look like they're full of dust. Which is a p1sser. I cna't tell if it's surface pitting on the outside, or dust on the inside. Probably both knowing my luck.
They're only halogen units, but is removing them to try and hoover them out going to be a monumental ballache that I'll rue ever starting? I'm not even sure it would get everything either.
JakeT said:
After a good clean and lube it’s really a surprising difference! It’s nice that the glass lifts on its own.
I also disassembled, cleaned and lubed the rear wiper pivot too after it was getting stiff. The shaft has some corrosion and pitting that a light sand hasn’t sorted. I may order a new one soon. Also tightened up the strut brace bolts (really should get some new ones) and re-seated the connectors on the Alpine amp.
Is the glass supposed to pop fully open as soon as you press the release button? I've soaked my hinges in Plus Gas for the past few days and worked them back and forth quite a lot, but so far it's not made much real difference.I also disassembled, cleaned and lubed the rear wiper pivot too after it was getting stiff. The shaft has some corrosion and pitting that a light sand hasn’t sorted. I may order a new one soon. Also tightened up the strut brace bolts (really should get some new ones) and re-seated the connectors on the Alpine amp.
Gassing Station | BMW General | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff