E91 Straight Six Bearding

[ATM]

330i Touring
Auto
2006
135,000 miles

£4,500

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126915140705

[JakeT]

Prices of these have held really strong. 5 and a half years ago I bought a similar age manual one with similar miles for the same money. No front arch rust like this one and all paperwork from new.

[g3org3y]

ATM said:

330i Touring
Auto
2006
135,000 miles

£4,500

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126915140705

No heated seats and no xenons and some rust. Price seems punchy to me?

[RSTurboPaul]

With apologies for asking what has undoubtedly already been asked...


Is there a recommended list of things to do upon purchase of a 330d?

Not everything has a decent service history but the M57 and its turbo and DPF seem pretty bombproof if looked after, going from the internet, so I was thinking a full service at least would be a good start 'just in case'...

So...

Oil + filter
Air Filter
Cabin Filter

Tailgate hinge lubrication?
Tailgate connector check/attend to?
Gearbox oil?
Diff oil?
Check out the rear subframe if it is up in the air and potentially give it a rub-down and a coat of something rust-resistant?
Find the 'secret menu' in the dash menus to check the running temperature is correct / the two thermostats are not borked?

I'm struggling to think what else might be needed, as tyres / lights / rust / sunroof / blower motor / rear window motor issues would all be obvious things to check upon viewing.

It seems swirl flaps removal is a good idea, with or without EGR kit removal? (And it should run just fine without changing the map to something aftermarket?)


As noted, everything is fetching strong money, so buying something at 'trader' price then having more to do would be annoying... lol


Many thanks in advance for any advice!

Edited by RSTurboPaul on Sunday 2nd February 15:42

[helix403]

My 335d wouldn’t regen properly without swirl flaps. This is a rare issue but can occur on M57s with DPFs.

[danb79]

RSTurboPaul said:

With apologies for asking what has undoubtedly already been asked...


Is there a recommended list of things to do upon purchase of a 330d?

Not everything has a decent service history but the M57 and its turbo and DPF seem pretty bombproof if looked after, going from the internet, so I was thinking a full service at least would be a good start 'just in case'...

So...

Oil + filter
Air Filter
Cabin Filter

Tailgate hinge lubrication?
Tailgate connector check/attend to?
Gearbox oil?
Diff oil?
Check out the rear subframe if it is up in the air and potentially give it a rub-down and a coat of something rust-resistant?
Find the 'secret menu' in the dash menus to check the running temperature is correct / the two thermostats are not borked?

I'm struggling to think what else might be needed, as tyres / lights / rust / sunroof / blower motor / rear window motor issues would all be obvious things to check upon viewing.

It seems swirl flaps removal is a good idea, with or without EGR kit removal? (And it should run just fine without changing the map to something aftermarket?)


As noted, everything is fetching strong money, so buying something at 'trader' price then having more to do would be annoying... lol


Many thanks in advance for any advice!

Edited by RSTurboPaul on Sunday 2nd February 15:42

Not the same car; but same engine...

When I had my E65 730D M Sport; I did a full service on it (oil, filter, diff oil etc); left the swirl flaps in (had them checked and they were fine/undamaged and working as they should be). This was due to the research I did and a lot pointed to the engine not being as good as it could be with them removed. EGR & DPF in place with zero issues also

I had the rocker gasket replaced as it was leaking, like they all do. A new air filter fitted at the same time

If the one you're getting is an auto; deffo get the ZF6 serviced by a local autobox specialist etc - it'll do it a world of good

Re subframe, same issues that my E81 had and that's surface rust; I reversed mine up on some solid high ramps I bought off Amazon, wire brushed it (hand held and drill attachment etc); vacuumed all that off and then treated it with Bilt Hamber Hydrate (works superbly) and once that'd fully cured; I gave it all a good spray with Jelonite too, more so the areas I couldn't get the brush into...

This is how it looked after; I did the diff casing also as that had surface rust




BH Hydrate: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bilt-Hamber-Hydrate-80-50...

Jelointe: https://www.amazon.co.uk/JENOLITE-Converter-Aeroso...

[Mr Tidy]

g3org3y said:

ATM said:

330i Touring
Auto
2006
135,000 miles

£4,500

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126915140705

No heated seats and no xenons and some rust. Price seems punchy to me?

That seems to be where prices still are for Tourings. They were higher than that when I was looking in 2019 which is why I ended up with a manual E90 330i.

There aren't too many 330is with the N52 engine about either, although I'd have liked to see some interior photos. Le Mans blue has to be the best colour too!

[g3org3y]

Mr Tidy said:

g3org3y said:

ATM said:

330i Touring
Auto
2006
135,000 miles

£4,500

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126915140705

No heated seats and no xenons and some rust. Price seems punchy to me?

That seems to be where prices still are for Tourings. They were higher than that when I was looking in 2019 which is why I ended up with a manual E90 330i.

There aren't too many 330is with the N52 engine about either, although I'd have liked to see some interior photos. Le Mans blue has to be the best colour too!

Interior photos are there - black leather.

Agree re Le Mans. [/biased]



Unfortunately with the way my wife has treated ours (currently on 179k miles), it's achieving shed status.

[g3org3y]

RSTurboPaul said:

Gearbox oil?

As dan says, assuming you'll have the auto (ZF 6HP), ignore the sealed for life claims and get it serviced.

(Reminds me, I need to get it done on the 6).

[E-numbers]

I guess you might all know this anyway but..

The 325i N52 has had pretty much unassisted brakes recently, and a 4AFB code- vacuum sensor. It’s a 2005.

I spent a while watching you tube videos and channelling my inner Sreten to get under the brake fluid reservoir and change the sensor- it’s right and tricky location.

And the point is, early N52s don’t have a vacuum sensor. At least this one, and I confirmed again with realoem. Which I should have believed at the start. The vacuum leaks coming from the gasket where the pipe exits the brake booster- there is no sensor just the pipe. Have ordered:

Vacuum pipe 34337577337
Gasket 34336765316

Because it’s like this:



Not like this:



Or another version where I’ve seen the sensor directly joining to the brake booster.

Will keep you posted but I could hear the whistle of air and see a poor seal at the BB. I’m fairly hopeful this will be the fix.

[sortedcossie]

g3org3y said:

ATM said:

330i Touring
Auto
2006
135,000 miles

£4,500

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126915140705

No heated seats and no xenons and some rust. Price seems punchy to me?

Yeah over priced. As mentioned a couple of pages back I sold a younger, lower mileage, lower owner, better spec 330d touring in November. Went for £3,500, sold in 4 days. I'd been looking for a couple of months prior at both petrol and diesel e91's - Between 3 and 4k is where they all averaged. Some of the ones I'd noted were still for sale end of December, for a reason - priced too high.

[sortedcossie]

RSTurboPaul said:

With apologies for asking what has undoubtedly already been asked...


Is there a recommended list of things to do upon purchase of a 330d?

Not everything has a decent service history but the M57 and its turbo and DPF seem pretty bombproof if looked after, going from the internet, so I was thinking a full service at least would be a good start 'just in case'...

So...

Oil + filter
Air Filter
Cabin Filter

Tailgate hinge lubrication?
Tailgate connector check/attend to?
Gearbox oil?
Diff oil?
Check out the rear subframe if it is up in the air and potentially give it a rub-down and a coat of something rust-resistant?
Find the 'secret menu' in the dash menus to check the running temperature is correct / the two thermostats are not borked?

I'm struggling to think what else might be needed, as tyres / lights / rust / sunroof / blower motor / rear window motor issues would all be obvious things to check upon viewing.

It seems swirl flaps removal is a good idea, with or without EGR kit removal? (And it should run just fine without changing the map to something aftermarket?)


As noted, everything is fetching strong money, so buying something at 'trader' price then having more to do would be annoying... lol


Many thanks in advance for any advice!

Edited by RSTurboPaul on Sunday 2nd February 15:42

for the cost of them, change the fuel filter. I'd also be examining the brake pipes and unions, and changing the brake fluid.

I'd leave the swirl flaps personally as they loose a bit of low down torque without, unless you remap.

[williskwl]

bmwmike said:

CB 987 said:

The price has come down quite a bit on that one, I’m pretty sure it was listed for something ambitious like £16.5k when it first went up!

Yes, it was.

It still was up on Autotrader at £15k for some time. It’s now on AT at £10,975. Seems a bit cheap compared to some other recent imports priced.

As mine will be for sale soon I’m hoping for some more selling a little higher!!

[sparks85]

RiccardoG said:

If the battery is getting weaker then the car starts cutting back on some "services". You start noticing weird behavious, such as the fuel range not giving sensible info and other unexpcted behaviours. New battery solved that. We got 10yrs from the factory battery.

How old is your battery?

No idea, not had the car that long - will have to check with a multimeter. Thanks for the suggestion.

Any other signs or symptoms of a bad battery that I can look out for?

[Sir_Dave]

Completely unplanned purchase, but saw it on ebay and plonked in a cheeky bid.

100% standard, poverty spec (bar xenons) pre-lci 335i (previously owned by a PH'er) on 180k miles. Drives like its done half that.



Has 10 x more miles than the last one i had

[sortedcossie]

It''s got the common sticking headlamp washers - fuse 40 I think stops them.

[JakeT]

He’s back! I feel like you always gravitate to some sort of E90, Dave.

I think the last owned was active on hear. I recall a rear wheel bearing being replaced? But I could be wrong.

[Swervin_Mervin]

sortedcossie said:

It''s got the common sticking headlamp washers - fuse 40 I think stops them.

Piece of piss to replace them, rather than go without.

I thought you weren't going to buy anymore Dave?! I'm sure I threatened to sell mine to you a few years ago

[sortedcossie]

How much are they now? Then genuine ones when I looked were eyewatering, admittedly that was ages go, and the non gen don't last 5 minutes

[Mr Tidy]

Congratulations Sir Dave!

I know you pull Fuse 40 on E85/86 Z4s to disable the headlamp washers because after fixing the leaking one on mine that's what I did. Can't see the point of them really, all they do is leak, sometimes fly out, lose the caps and leave streaks up the wings!

Plus you don't need them for the MOT on a car registered before 2009, even if it has Xenons.

I must get around to disabling them on my 3 Series.