Talk to me about E46 coupes
Discussion
Chris71 said:
Ah, now that is interesting! I quite liked the look of that one, but discounted it based on what I'd heard about the SSG elsewhere (by sheer coincidence a mate came to visit this afternoon ... I forgot he started in the motor trade and currently owns an E46 saloon!)
So what do we reckon to that one?
Like I say, I used to be vehemently anti-auto, but after the hundredth time creeping through the traffic on the way up to Stonehenge on the A303 I'm coming round to the idea of someone shuffling the torque for me.
IMO that looks pretty good but as always I'd want to see it in the flesh. If it's near Warwick I'm happy to assist with that So what do we reckon to that one?
Like I say, I used to be vehemently anti-auto, but after the hundredth time creeping through the traffic on the way up to Stonehenge on the A303 I'm coming round to the idea of someone shuffling the torque for me.
.Like you I used to be anti-Auto myself a couple of years ago. A few things did change that.
-Doing 10k a month on a mixture of roads ; I didn't still mind manuals too much to be honest surprisingly
-People praising manual derivates only for me to be dissapointed ; maybe I expected too much. My 323i was one such car.
-My Stag on a BMW 4 speed Auto conversion ; that was a spot on match and really suited the car.
-Driving an M135i ; that was probably the first stepping stone for me. I was shocked at the time.
-Finally, going around the 'ring a Clio 220 Trophy EDC. In full auto none of us were quicker in manual, if anything we were slower and not looking at the track as much. Darren who runs DN was saying not to waste our time with the manual modes oddly.
Patrick Bateman said:
Speed of gear change in an auto vs. manual context is rather missing the point for those who want a manual for enjoyment.
That is true. A good manual is enjoyable, that's for sure.I'll leave it at this. It's hard to enjoy a s
t 'box!Edited by SebringMan on Tuesday 5th September 13:39
SebringMan said:
Chris71 said:
Ah, now that is interesting! I quite liked the look of that one, but discounted it based on what I'd heard about the SSG elsewhere (by sheer coincidence a mate came to visit this afternoon ... I forgot he started in the motor trade and currently owns an E46 saloon!)
So what do we reckon to that one?
Like I say, I used to be vehemently anti-auto, but after the hundredth time creeping through the traffic on the way up to Stonehenge on the A303 I'm coming round to the idea of someone shuffling the torque for me.
IMO that looks pretty good but as always I'd want to see it in the flesh. If it's near Warwick I'm happy to assist with that So what do we reckon to that one?
Like I say, I used to be vehemently anti-auto, but after the hundredth time creeping through the traffic on the way up to Stonehenge on the A303 I'm coming round to the idea of someone shuffling the torque for me.
.The auto thing for me entirely comes down to the usage. I would always go for a manual for a Sunday afternoon fun car. Even if you get something where the actual shift is pretty horrid, the extra engagement can be priceless if you're blipping your way down the gearbox with a good engine. But, while I'd never describe changing gear as especially taxing, there is something more relaxing about letting the car do the work if you're just going about the daily grind. I don't think I've ever crawled along on the M25 wishing I was doing my own clutch work.
Chris71 said:
Indeed. The one I drove yesterday was a speculative visit to a local car dealership on the way back from seeing an Alfa 156 V6 that I had my heart set on. The E46 was outwardly in a much rougher state yet it drove infinitely better. I'd still be tempted by the Alfa if I could find a good one, but I'd say 330s outnumber them about 10:1, so even if there are a few dogs out there my chances of finding a good one are far higher. Plus, as a long-suffering TVR owner, I have a fairly philosophical take on maintenance requirements. 
Lovely sounding things those 156 V6s aren't they!Edited by Chris71 on Monday 4th September 17:22
I always wanted a black one, with the 5-dial alloys and a sunroof but quite rare in that spec - that was after a workmate had a red one with the big hoop spoiler when I had my E36 328 and we had a few drives out in the late evening. Used to sound fantastic when it was wound up alongside the open window on my 328.
I'd say if you're used to looking after a TVR then an E46 shouldn't be too difficult to DIY. I've had the 330, the 320 ( 170bhp 2.2 six ) ....and currently the 325 engines in the E46. Just returned from annual Italian trip in the 325 ( albeit the hatch but a 6-speeder ) and it was faultless for the 3000 mile round trip. Done similar trips in the E36 328 and 330 and they've all been good all-rounders for 4 people and luggage.
Ahem.
It's 2am and I just finished spray painting my new front wheel arch for my e46.
I bought my 330 Vert for 3400 pounds a year ago. It was just shy of a 100k miles and was in mint condition.
I've subsequently put 24000 miles on it and ragged it around Europe.
It's needed new wheels, thermostat, brake discs, pads and calipers, fuel gauge sensor, lambda sensor and now the wing has gone rotten.
None of that has been particularly expensive and none of it has left me stranded. You just have to remember that these are now in the "old car" bracket and will need TLC. Buy a well maintained one from an enthusiast rather than buying a trade in from a dealer, because that will inevitably be borked or ready to bork.
I wouldn't go so far as to say that these things are unreliable either. They have very specific issues that need to be addressed.
MV1 alloys will crack.
Cooling system should be replaced complete.
Front wheel arches will rot. They can be replaced for very little as the panels cost 35 pounds brand new, online.
The hedgehog resistor controlling the cabin fan will eventually die and need replaced.
Suspension coils may crack, usually because they've never been actually replaced.
Diffs may weep very slowly (But over 40000 miles it might empty itself. For the sake of a tenner, ensure it's full)
Would advise the front calipers, discs, pads and fluid should all be done straight after purchase unless recently taken care of.
Rocker cover gasket will weep.
I'm keeping mine and wouldn't swap it for anything under 10k. It's got well under my skin.
Nice car matthias73 - I bought my 325ti Sport in 2014 for just under £2K with 79K miles recorded. So £2K is the most I stood to lose! What could go wrong?
After 2 and a half years and 20K miles it is still going strong, although it has needed the cooling system refresh and a PAS pipe replacement.
But I already had a Z4 Coupe that would be under your upper budget.
After 2 and a half years and 20K miles it is still going strong, although it has needed the cooling system refresh and a PAS pipe replacement.
Edited by Mr Tidy on Wednesday 6th September 02:43
But I already had a Z4 Coupe that would be under your upper budget.
Edited by Mr Tidy on Wednesday 6th September 02:53
matthias73 said:
Ahem.
It's 2am and I just finished spray painting my new front wheel arch for my e46.
I bought my 330 Vert for 3400 pounds a year ago. It was just shy of a 100k miles and was in mint condition.
I've subsequently put 24000 miles on it and ragged it around Europe.
It's needed new wheels, thermostat, brake discs, pads and calipers, fuel gauge sensor, lambda sensor and now the wing has gone rotten.
None of that has been particularly expensive and none of it has left me stranded. You just have to remember that these are now in the "old car" bracket and will need TLC. Buy a well maintained one from an enthusiast rather than buying a trade in from a dealer, because that will inevitably be borked or ready to bork.
I wouldn't go so far as to say that these things are unreliable either. They have very specific issues that need to be addressed.
MV1 alloys will crack.
Cooling system should be replaced complete.
Front wheel arches will rot. They can be replaced for very little as the panels cost 35 pounds brand new, online.
The hedgehog resistor controlling the cabin fan will eventually die and need replaced.
Suspension coils may crack, usually because they've never been actually replaced.
Diffs may weep very slowly (But over 40000 miles it might empty itself. For the sake of a tenner, ensure it's full)
Would advise the front calipers, discs, pads and fluid should all be done straight after purchase unless recently taken care of.
Rocker cover gasket will weep.
Some good info there from matthias - I've done most of those above on E46s. Not had MV1 alloys and so far not had to replace a resistor on an E46 ( E36 I did though ).It's 2am and I just finished spray painting my new front wheel arch for my e46.
I bought my 330 Vert for 3400 pounds a year ago. It was just shy of a 100k miles and was in mint condition.
I've subsequently put 24000 miles on it and ragged it around Europe.
It's needed new wheels, thermostat, brake discs, pads and calipers, fuel gauge sensor, lambda sensor and now the wing has gone rotten.
None of that has been particularly expensive and none of it has left me stranded. You just have to remember that these are now in the "old car" bracket and will need TLC. Buy a well maintained one from an enthusiast rather than buying a trade in from a dealer, because that will inevitably be borked or ready to bork.
I wouldn't go so far as to say that these things are unreliable either. They have very specific issues that need to be addressed.
MV1 alloys will crack.
Cooling system should be replaced complete.
Front wheel arches will rot. They can be replaced for very little as the panels cost 35 pounds brand new, online.
The hedgehog resistor controlling the cabin fan will eventually die and need replaced.
Suspension coils may crack, usually because they've never been actually replaced.
Diffs may weep very slowly (But over 40000 miles it might empty itself. For the sake of a tenner, ensure it's full)
Would advise the front calipers, discs, pads and fluid should all be done straight after purchase unless recently taken care of.
Rocker cover gasket will weep.
Mine's a 2003 Compact and they do seem to resist rust a lot better than some of the other bodystyles - there's also a handt guide re preventative maintenance on E46 arches in BMW CAR mag this month if you get a car with good arches.
Had to replace rocker cover gasket on most of them ( you often smell it starting to go when you reverse with the window down - burnt oil smell ).
Also done calipers, discs and pads at front and cooling system.
Also if it's not been done ever or in last 50k, rear trailing arm bushes, lolipops and front lower arms will sharpen it up and probably help remove a lot of tramlining, braking vibration as well.
Shocks usually get through an MOT even when goosed and often haven't been changed even on high milers - you'll usually be surprised how bad they are if you take them off though.
Let us know whether you get the Alfa or a BMW!
s m said:
matthias73 said:
Ahem.
It's 2am and I just finished spray painting my new front wheel arch for my e46.
I bought my 330 Vert for 3400 pounds a year ago. It was just shy of a 100k miles and was in mint condition.
I've subsequently put 24000 miles on it and ragged it around Europe.
It's needed new wheels, thermostat, brake discs, pads and calipers, fuel gauge sensor, lambda sensor and now the wing has gone rotten.
None of that has been particularly expensive and none of it has left me stranded. You just have to remember that these are now in the "old car" bracket and will need TLC. Buy a well maintained one from an enthusiast rather than buying a trade in from a dealer, because that will inevitably be borked or ready to bork.
I wouldn't go so far as to say that these things are unreliable either. They have very specific issues that need to be addressed.
MV1 alloys will crack.
Cooling system should be replaced complete.
Front wheel arches will rot. They can be replaced for very little as the panels cost 35 pounds brand new, online.
The hedgehog resistor controlling the cabin fan will eventually die and need replaced.
Suspension coils may crack, usually because they've never been actually replaced.
Diffs may weep very slowly (But over 40000 miles it might empty itself. For the sake of a tenner, ensure it's full)
Would advise the front calipers, discs, pads and fluid should all be done straight after purchase unless recently taken care of.
Rocker cover gasket will weep.
Some good info there from matthias - I've done most of those above on E46s. Not had MV1 alloys and so far not had to replace a resistor on an E46 ( E36 I did though ).It's 2am and I just finished spray painting my new front wheel arch for my e46.
I bought my 330 Vert for 3400 pounds a year ago. It was just shy of a 100k miles and was in mint condition.
I've subsequently put 24000 miles on it and ragged it around Europe.
It's needed new wheels, thermostat, brake discs, pads and calipers, fuel gauge sensor, lambda sensor and now the wing has gone rotten.
None of that has been particularly expensive and none of it has left me stranded. You just have to remember that these are now in the "old car" bracket and will need TLC. Buy a well maintained one from an enthusiast rather than buying a trade in from a dealer, because that will inevitably be borked or ready to bork.
I wouldn't go so far as to say that these things are unreliable either. They have very specific issues that need to be addressed.
MV1 alloys will crack.
Cooling system should be replaced complete.
Front wheel arches will rot. They can be replaced for very little as the panels cost 35 pounds brand new, online.
The hedgehog resistor controlling the cabin fan will eventually die and need replaced.
Suspension coils may crack, usually because they've never been actually replaced.
Diffs may weep very slowly (But over 40000 miles it might empty itself. For the sake of a tenner, ensure it's full)
Would advise the front calipers, discs, pads and fluid should all be done straight after purchase unless recently taken care of.
Rocker cover gasket will weep.
Mine's a 2003 Compact and they do seem to resist rust a lot better than some of the other bodystyles - there's also a handt guide re preventative maintenance on E46 arches in BMW CAR mag this month if you get a car with good arches.
Had to replace rocker cover gasket on most of them ( you often smell it starting to go when you reverse with the window down - burnt oil smell ).
Also done calipers, discs and pads at front and cooling system.
Also if it's not been done ever or in last 50k, rear trailing arm bushes, lolipops and front lower arms will sharpen it up and probably help remove a lot of tramlining, braking vibration as well.
Shocks usually get through an MOT even when goosed and often haven't been changed even on high milers - you'll usually be surprised how bad they are if you take them off though.
Let us know whether you get the Alfa or a BMW!
I've not cracked an MV1 yet... But bent three of them
Coils are known to fail too. I've not had one go but many have. Sometimes plugs 'seize' in the head. Remove them on a hot engine and you should be golden. On the whole, they are reliable, comfortable and great to drive cars. Just maintenance intensive.
ETA- Try and find one with Xenon lights. My compact has them, and the coupe doesn't. night and day (ugh) difference driving with them.
Edited by JakeT on Wednesday 6th September 10:16
I've got a 330Ci Clubsport, agree that it's not much more than a spoiler and wheels over a Sport 330, but does feel slightly more special to me.
This is my second 330 (changed the first one last year for an E91 320d in a short lived fit of sensibility) and within the first 200 yards of the test drive I could tell it was a good one. It seems to have been fastidiously maintained up until the owner before me, who'd fitted some Chinese ditchfinders but thankfully didn't have it long enough to do any real damage.
The only real niggle with it is the self centre detent spring which sticks and leaves the gear lever over the right hand side of the gate occasionally. This is a common issue on the pre facelift 5 speed cars and can't usually be sorted without dropping the box as I understand it (someone feel free to correct me - Helix?!), so I'm living with it until it eats a clutch. It's worse when cold and all but goes once it's got some heat in it.
It's got HK audio & xenons and all the electrics etc work. As has been said, xenons are a huge improvement over the halogens and worth seeking out. I had halogens on my previous 330 and thought they were fine until this one.
I've done 13000 miles in the last 8 months (now on 119k) and it's only needed a radiator (touch wood quickly), though I've spent some money on it, P Zero's all round, having the Clubsport alloys refurbished and fitting a Scorpion exhaust due to a very slight blow mentioned on the last MOT as an advisory.
Incidentally the Scorpion is a very restrained system and just what I was after, only fractionally louder inside than standard and a nice deep note. I do a lot of motorway miles so didn't want a horrific drone. My previous 330 had an Eisenmann silencer on, and I would say that sounded sweeter but for the money the Scorpion cannot be beaten - full system from downpipes back for the price of the Eisenmann rear silencer.
I've treated it to an interim oil change and an Inspection 2 at Paddock Motors, where nothing was picked up. It uses about 1/2 a litre every 1k miles, but they all do that sir.
At some point I'll sort the suspension as it feels like the damping is well past it's best, though I'm waiting for the moment for it to crack a spring or something to let me justify it.
Next to do is the slight bubbling on the front arches and a tiny tiny spot on the rear arch. I like the car so much that to me it's worth spending on.
Besides that, it's been a cracking car so far and I just plan to pile the miles on it.
Good luck with your search, for the money they're great cars and running costs are sensible. My weekly commute is 270 miles of motorway and open A roads and at a sensible cruise it'll return 34-35 mpg. Even pressing on it's not bad. I genuinely can't think of much I'd change it for, I find it a much nicer place to sit than the E91 was and I prefer the layout of the controls, especially cruise control buttons on the steering wheel.
This is my second 330 (changed the first one last year for an E91 320d in a short lived fit of sensibility) and within the first 200 yards of the test drive I could tell it was a good one. It seems to have been fastidiously maintained up until the owner before me, who'd fitted some Chinese ditchfinders but thankfully didn't have it long enough to do any real damage.
The only real niggle with it is the self centre detent spring which sticks and leaves the gear lever over the right hand side of the gate occasionally. This is a common issue on the pre facelift 5 speed cars and can't usually be sorted without dropping the box as I understand it (someone feel free to correct me - Helix?!), so I'm living with it until it eats a clutch. It's worse when cold and all but goes once it's got some heat in it.
It's got HK audio & xenons and all the electrics etc work. As has been said, xenons are a huge improvement over the halogens and worth seeking out. I had halogens on my previous 330 and thought they were fine until this one.
I've done 13000 miles in the last 8 months (now on 119k) and it's only needed a radiator (touch wood quickly), though I've spent some money on it, P Zero's all round, having the Clubsport alloys refurbished and fitting a Scorpion exhaust due to a very slight blow mentioned on the last MOT as an advisory.
Incidentally the Scorpion is a very restrained system and just what I was after, only fractionally louder inside than standard and a nice deep note. I do a lot of motorway miles so didn't want a horrific drone. My previous 330 had an Eisenmann silencer on, and I would say that sounded sweeter but for the money the Scorpion cannot be beaten - full system from downpipes back for the price of the Eisenmann rear silencer.
I've treated it to an interim oil change and an Inspection 2 at Paddock Motors, where nothing was picked up. It uses about 1/2 a litre every 1k miles, but they all do that sir.
At some point I'll sort the suspension as it feels like the damping is well past it's best, though I'm waiting for the moment for it to crack a spring or something to let me justify it.
Next to do is the slight bubbling on the front arches and a tiny tiny spot on the rear arch. I like the car so much that to me it's worth spending on.
Besides that, it's been a cracking car so far and I just plan to pile the miles on it.
Good luck with your search, for the money they're great cars and running costs are sensible. My weekly commute is 270 miles of motorway and open A roads and at a sensible cruise it'll return 34-35 mpg. Even pressing on it's not bad. I genuinely can't think of much I'd change it for, I find it a much nicer place to sit than the E91 was and I prefer the layout of the controls, especially cruise control buttons on the steering wheel.
Edited by Spitfires on Wednesday 6th September 11:21
Edited by Spitfires on Wednesday 6th September 11:58
111 by jack chevelle, on FlickrHeres' mine. bought April last here at 113k now at 120k. 6 Speed manual, Nappa leather HK, TPMS and loads of history. Since I've had it I've done the front wishbones, refurbed the wheels and new Goodyear F1 assy3s, new rear discs and pads and CCV.
If I sold it, I don't know what I'd replace it with.... Well, Maybe another one in Imola red or orient blue.
Vizsla said:
I'll add my experience with an E46 330Ci, 'well looked after' is the key, I think.
Mine: bought new Dec '01, now on 134K, always serviced by BMW or, more recently, by quality local indie.
Issues:
CCV definitely, didn't use a drop of oil up to around 80K miles, steadily increased after that and now uses ~ 1litre/1000 miles - acceptable as I don't do a high mileage. Pretty sure it's the CCV that's gunged up, can live with it so far.
Rear brake pipe minor corrosion, has been an advisory on and off for a few years, will probably need to be done eventually.
Niggling problem over the years with the seat belts warning light, known problem, BMW consistently failed to sort it, indie eventually fixed it.
Otherwise, just 'normal' items eg new thermostat, rad and water pump (overhaul around 100K is usual), pads, one front wheel bearing, bushes etc.
Still on original clutch, starter, alternator, injection system, shocks, exhaust (really!), and no corrosion on bodywork (really!)
Best car I've owned by a mile, still drives beautifully, there are still some decent ones around if you look
My 2003 E46 330ci was always garaged and when sold after 11 years and 125k miles the buyer commented all he'd seen were rusty bar mine. Is it the garaging?Mine: bought new Dec '01, now on 134K, always serviced by BMW or, more recently, by quality local indie.
Issues:
CCV definitely, didn't use a drop of oil up to around 80K miles, steadily increased after that and now uses ~ 1litre/1000 miles - acceptable as I don't do a high mileage. Pretty sure it's the CCV that's gunged up, can live with it so far.
Rear brake pipe minor corrosion, has been an advisory on and off for a few years, will probably need to be done eventually.
Niggling problem over the years with the seat belts warning light, known problem, BMW consistently failed to sort it, indie eventually fixed it.
Otherwise, just 'normal' items eg new thermostat, rad and water pump (overhaul around 100K is usual), pads, one front wheel bearing, bushes etc.
Still on original clutch, starter, alternator, injection system, shocks, exhaust (really!), and no corrosion on bodywork (really!)
Best car I've owned by a mile, still drives beautifully, there are still some decent ones around if you look
Hardly used any oil. Full BMWSH. Both front suspension arms replaced at around 100k. Gear lever wouldn't spring back to neutral (known issue) so gearbox out at indy (£1000). Otherwise one of my favourite drives. 6cyl. RWD. N/A. Great handling (when you know it well!).
WRT the arches, make sure you clean out all the crud from along the top of the arch and then down the sides. Otherwise they will rust from inside.
Best to take the wheel liner off to do it properly.
Also, WRT the airbag light, mine lit up again less than a year after the pre-tensioner was changed under warrantly. I just took everything apart under the seat and cleaned up the connections, and it solved the problem. I used IPNA to reset the light.
Best to take the wheel liner off to do it properly.
Also, WRT the airbag light, mine lit up again less than a year after the pre-tensioner was changed under warrantly. I just took everything apart under the seat and cleaned up the connections, and it solved the problem. I used IPNA to reset the light.
Edited by nw942 on Thursday 7th September 12:40
iSore said:
The only folk who disagree are 325i owners. The 330i has much stronger performance and better brakes - and the same economy.
And Compact owners - sadly we never had the option of a 330i (probably because it would have embarrassed 330Ci buyers). But I'd agree, in any other body-style 330i is the only way to go - ideally a facelift for the 6-speed!
Thanks gents, some really good information.
ETA I think I've got a good idea what to look for in terms of bills (new wishbones etc.) Aside from rust, is there anything else a relatively inexpert person like me could look for when they go to view an E46?
matthias73 said:
Also I see you drive down the a303/Stonehenge.
I live in Tidworth if you want to take mine for a spin.
May well take you up on that. I'm actually on the far side of Somerset, but every few weeks I have to venture up the '303 or the M4 for work. The blue 325 was for sale in Basingstoke, so I was meant to view that on my way back from Millbrook last night, but it had sold by the time I set off. I live in Tidworth if you want to take mine for a spin.
s m said:
Let us know whether you get the Alfa or a BMW!
It's a tricky one. I suspect someone with the right knowledge will still be able to pick up a decent E46 for sensible money in a few years' time, whereas the Alfas are already starting to polarise into cheap rusty sheds and expensive show cars. If, by some chance, I find a 156 V6 that bucks that trend I'd probably grab it as I could revisit the BMW idea later on. But the chances of that happening? There are 20 or 30 E46s for every 156 V6 and I don't have six months to track one down.ETA I think I've got a good idea what to look for in terms of bills (new wishbones etc.) Aside from rust, is there anything else a relatively inexpert person like me could look for when they go to view an E46?
Edited by Chris71 on Saturday 9th September 16:08
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