BMW 120d (F20) Brake Judder
Discussion
Jaybmw said:
I have something similar.. I suspect it's the calipers. I done the same as you replaced the lot, loads a grease and it was fine until it wasn't.
Maybe this! I had a 2006 330i 6 years ago and had the brake judder issue. I replaced the front discs and pads twice but the judder came back within 1,000 miles both times. I then sold the car (not due to this issue). The next owner then fixed one of the rear calipers iI think and the juddering stopped.
Brake Judder on BMW is fairly common. Mostly it is caused by hub runout, anything from a small bump to a pothole can run the hub out.
This is almost definitely the case if the discs and pads are changed, and it’s fine for a while, but returns after 2-5k miles.
The solution? Replace the hub (discs and brake pad replacement will only work temporarily)
OR - cheaper option is to have your brakes skimmed WHILE ON the hubs, if they are relatively new discs. Note that skimming off the hub will not work here, as they’ll run out of true with the hub again. I believe procut is the OEM that makes the skimming equipment.
This is almost definitely the case if the discs and pads are changed, and it’s fine for a while, but returns after 2-5k miles.
The solution? Replace the hub (discs and brake pad replacement will only work temporarily)
OR - cheaper option is to have your brakes skimmed WHILE ON the hubs, if they are relatively new discs. Note that skimming off the hub will not work here, as they’ll run out of true with the hub again. I believe procut is the OEM that makes the skimming equipment.
Edited by ryanrafferty1000 on Friday 7th June 12:25
Edited by ryanrafferty1000 on Friday 7th June 12:26
Thanks for all suggestions guys. I presume that these garages that can skim the discs whilst on the car can also diagnose which hub is the problem. So have been in contact with a company to do this, so thanks for letting me know this, hadn’t heard about it before.
In the meantime I had been speaking to my Indy who was adamant it was ABS related. I had checked and there were no abs codes. But to make sure; I pulled the connector block off the ABS pump (not advisable). To which;
- brought up about 1000 faults all relating to brakes and traction control.
- Speedo read 0.
- Steering went very heavy and reacted differently each time to a steering input. Presuming due to electronic servo steering.
- Wheels would lock up if you trod on the middle pedal.
-However; the judder persisted when braking normally.
Hopefully this has disproved the ABS theory.
In the meantime I had been speaking to my Indy who was adamant it was ABS related. I had checked and there were no abs codes. But to make sure; I pulled the connector block off the ABS pump (not advisable). To which;
- brought up about 1000 faults all relating to brakes and traction control.
- Speedo read 0.
- Steering went very heavy and reacted differently each time to a steering input. Presuming due to electronic servo steering.
- Wheels would lock up if you trod on the middle pedal.
-However; the judder persisted when braking normally.
Hopefully this has disproved the ABS theory.
ryanrafferty1000 said:
Brake Judder on BMW is fairly common. Mostly it is caused by hub runout, anything from a small bump to a pothole can run the hub out.
This is almost definitely the case if the discs and pads are changed, and it’s fine for a while, but returns after 2-5k miles.
The solution? Replace the hub (discs and brake pad replacement will only work temporarily)
OR - cheaper option is to have your brakes skimmed WHILE ON the hubs, if they are relatively new discs. Note that skimming off the hub will not work here, as they’ll run out of true with the hub again. I believe procut is the OEM that makes the skimming equipment.
Seems highly unlikely. Even a BMW hub shouldn’t be damaged except by the sort of impact that would first wreck the tyre and rim. This is almost definitely the case if the discs and pads are changed, and it’s fine for a while, but returns after 2-5k miles.
The solution? Replace the hub (discs and brake pad replacement will only work temporarily)
OR - cheaper option is to have your brakes skimmed WHILE ON the hubs, if they are relatively new discs. Note that skimming off the hub will not work here, as they’ll run out of true with the hub again. I believe procut is the OEM that makes the skimming equipment.
Edited by anonymous-user on Friday 7th June 12:25
Edited by anonymous-user on Friday 7th June 12:26
In any case this is such a common issue with BMWs and many people get rid of it by cleaning up the discs with hard braking, changing the discs or making sure the calipers can move freely if none of that helps.
In my case it started after the car was left standing outside for 5 weeks during winter. I did all the hard braking stuff which helped quite a bit, and then it just went over the next few weeks. It never came back but I was careful never to leave it stood outside for so long. I even made sure the brakes were hot when it was parked up in the garage if it was raining or after washing.
I got my brake judder sorted last week.
I think it was the balancing on the front wheels was ever so slightly out.
I got my place to spin the tyres around on the rim to make sure they got them exactly balanced, now the judder has gone.
Why I say I think that was the case, the dealership I bought the car from did the front discs and pads, and they had tightened the wheel bolts so tight they had fked the hub and two of the bolts.
Now, because these two were torqued so hard it could well have left the wheel sitting not quite flat I guess? I doubt it, but not sure?
Anyway, nice to have the judder gone, even if I have now got to to replace the hub!!!
I think it was the balancing on the front wheels was ever so slightly out.
I got my place to spin the tyres around on the rim to make sure they got them exactly balanced, now the judder has gone.
Why I say I think that was the case, the dealership I bought the car from did the front discs and pads, and they had tightened the wheel bolts so tight they had fked the hub and two of the bolts.
Now, because these two were torqued so hard it could well have left the wheel sitting not quite flat I guess? I doubt it, but not sure?
Anyway, nice to have the judder gone, even if I have now got to to replace the hub!!!
Originaltwist said:
A bit worrying that there are multiple threads on BMW brake judder. I've just had new discs and pads all round on a 30,000 mile F34 - 3 series GT 335D - and the juddering has started again. I've had about 60 cars and never had a problem like this with any of them.
That's because most of the other potential causes are overlooked because folk think brake discs warpSuspension parts, sticking calipers and hub cleanliness are overlooked, a LOT and need to be checked thoroughly...
Ball joints, bushes failing and track rod ends/inner CV joint issues are rarely checked; they need to be!
Of all the BMWs I've owned since 2009; only one (a previous F01) had brake wobble at speeds/when braking issues and that was a week after it flew through it's MOT with a very stringent MOT'er
It's was the ball joints on the 4 month old thrust arms that had failed, causing it; and only discovered when I removed them to double check their condition!
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