330d F30 bottom end failure - bent conrods?
Discussion
Booked in at Walkers of Rochdale. They have given me option of replace conrods and check other bits for around £1200-£1300+vat or full rebuild with 6 month/6000 mile warranty for £1800-£2500+vat. Both options include engine removal and refitting.
I guess I decide on which way to go once it's stripped down.
Either way it's cheaper than getting a 'unknown' second hand engine fitted and they're perfectly happy to acccept a partially dismantled vehicle with a box of bits in the boot!
Will update as and when the job progresses.
Thanks for all the help so far
I guess I decide on which way to go once it's stripped down.
Either way it's cheaper than getting a 'unknown' second hand engine fitted and they're perfectly happy to acccept a partially dismantled vehicle with a box of bits in the boot!
Will update as and when the job progresses.
Thanks for all the help so far
The verdict is in...
All 6 conrods bent, crankshaft journals scratched, rust in cylinder bores...
So it's a full rebuild. Not cheap at £2500+VAT but seems to be the going rate unless you go to the really suspect looking half priced rebuilds on ebay.
Sounds like it may be ready early next week though so the end is hopefully in sight.
Not my most successful punt!
Cheers,
Ted
All 6 conrods bent, crankshaft journals scratched, rust in cylinder bores...
So it's a full rebuild. Not cheap at £2500+VAT but seems to be the going rate unless you go to the really suspect looking half priced rebuilds on ebay.
Sounds like it may be ready early next week though so the end is hopefully in sight.
Not my most successful punt!
Cheers,
Ted
So, I have the car back following 'Full Rebuild'. That included block hone, crankshaft polish, piston rings, main and big end bearings, 6 new conrods and a timing chain kit.
I just want to check with anyone knowledgeable here - could a rattle under light load and poor fuel consumption be caused by injectors not being coded correctly? Got a few issues but don't want to cast any aspersions on the quality of the work until I've checked the basics. I'm getting a noticeable rattle when pulling away from a standstill - my 4 pot Golf GTD sounds lovely in comparison! Definitely sounds engine/revs related and gets less under heavy load.
Is there anything else I should be resetting with ISTA+ after this much work?
Thanks,
Ted
I just want to check with anyone knowledgeable here - could a rattle under light load and poor fuel consumption be caused by injectors not being coded correctly? Got a few issues but don't want to cast any aspersions on the quality of the work until I've checked the basics. I'm getting a noticeable rattle when pulling away from a standstill - my 4 pot Golf GTD sounds lovely in comparison! Definitely sounds engine/revs related and gets less under heavy load.
Is there anything else I should be resetting with ISTA+ after this much work?
Thanks,
Ted
TedStriker said:
The verdict is in...
All 6 conrods bent, crankshaft journals scratched, rust in cylinder bores...
So it's a full rebuild. Not cheap at £2500+VAT but seems to be the going rate unless you go to the really suspect looking half priced rebuilds on ebay.
Sounds like it may be ready early next week though so the end is hopefully in sight.
Not my most successful punt!
Cheers,
Ted
Almost sounds like engine was flood damaged or had some other major issue. 6 rods bending!!! All 6 conrods bent, crankshaft journals scratched, rust in cylinder bores...
So it's a full rebuild. Not cheap at £2500+VAT but seems to be the going rate unless you go to the really suspect looking half priced rebuilds on ebay.
Sounds like it may be ready early next week though so the end is hopefully in sight.
Not my most successful punt!
Cheers,
Ted
helix402 said:
Injectors shouldn’t need coding if they’ve not been changed and put back in the same cylinder. No need to change anything post rebuild with ISTA, you could clear adaptions if you want.
The injectors were unlabelled in a box in the boot when they got the car - so unlikely they've gone back in the same places. I'll plug it in later today and see if they've recoded them.TedStriker said:
So, I have the car back following 'Full Rebuild'. That included block hone, crankshaft polish, piston rings, main and big end bearings, 6 new conrods and a timing chain kit.
I just want to check with anyone knowledgeable here - could a rattle under light load and poor fuel consumption be caused by injectors not being coded correctly? Got a few issues but don't want to cast any aspersions on the quality of the work until I've checked the basics. I'm getting a noticeable rattle when pulling away from a standstill - my 4 pot Golf GTD sounds lovely in comparison! Definitely sounds engine/revs related and gets less under heavy load.
Is there anything else I should be resetting with ISTA+ after this much work?
Thanks,
Ted
I think following such a extensive rebuild, I'd expect the car to be spot on. I'd go back to the company that did the work and explain your concerns.I just want to check with anyone knowledgeable here - could a rattle under light load and poor fuel consumption be caused by injectors not being coded correctly? Got a few issues but don't want to cast any aspersions on the quality of the work until I've checked the basics. I'm getting a noticeable rattle when pulling away from a standstill - my 4 pot Golf GTD sounds lovely in comparison! Definitely sounds engine/revs related and gets less under heavy load.
Is there anything else I should be resetting with ISTA+ after this much work?
Thanks,
Ted
TedStriker said:
And then done what?
Put a another engine in. You only need it for a couple of months as mentioned so I guess your plan was to flip it anyway.Engine would be around 2k plus fitting. Would have cost the same as would you spent. You have now done a bottom end rebuild and you have the same problem as before. Probably a top end issue
g3org3y said:
TedStriker said:
So, I have the car back following 'Full Rebuild'. That included block hone, crankshaft polish, piston rings, main and big end bearings, 6 new conrods and a timing chain kit.
I just want to check with anyone knowledgeable here - could a rattle under light load and poor fuel consumption be caused by injectors not being coded correctly? Got a few issues but don't want to cast any aspersions on the quality of the work until I've checked the basics. I'm getting a noticeable rattle when pulling away from a standstill - my 4 pot Golf GTD sounds lovely in comparison! Definitely sounds engine/revs related and gets less under heavy load.
Is there anything else I should be resetting with ISTA+ after this much work?
Thanks,
Ted
I think following such a extensive rebuild, I'd expect the car to be spot on. I'd go back to the company that did the work and explain your concerns.I just want to check with anyone knowledgeable here - could a rattle under light load and poor fuel consumption be caused by injectors not being coded correctly? Got a few issues but don't want to cast any aspersions on the quality of the work until I've checked the basics. I'm getting a noticeable rattle when pulling away from a standstill - my 4 pot Golf GTD sounds lovely in comparison! Definitely sounds engine/revs related and gets less under heavy load.
Is there anything else I should be resetting with ISTA+ after this much work?
Thanks,
Ted
A follow up to this...
Still getting noticeable rattle under light load (worse when warmed up). Checked injectors and they were not coded to correct cylinders. Have rectified this and it's made no difference. The noise does sound 'injectory' though - it's most prevalent between 1500 and 2500rpm and comes on if you lightly accelerate.
Also noticed while checking the injector values that 2 fault codes have been logged for the air mass system:
24CE00 - Measured air mass compared with calculated air mass too high
290900 - Air mass system: Measured air mass too high
Googling suggests a boost or intake piping leak.
Video below - rattle driving at 20mph and lightly applying throttle, then whine when I get next to a wall. This was with a fully warmed up engine. Ignore the spueak, that was just the handbrake.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L-1nFDKph6A
Still getting noticeable rattle under light load (worse when warmed up). Checked injectors and they were not coded to correct cylinders. Have rectified this and it's made no difference. The noise does sound 'injectory' though - it's most prevalent between 1500 and 2500rpm and comes on if you lightly accelerate.
Also noticed while checking the injector values that 2 fault codes have been logged for the air mass system:
24CE00 - Measured air mass compared with calculated air mass too high
290900 - Air mass system: Measured air mass too high
Googling suggests a boost or intake piping leak.
Video below - rattle driving at 20mph and lightly applying throttle, then whine when I get next to a wall. This was with a fully warmed up engine. Ignore the spueak, that was just the handbrake.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L-1nFDKph6A
Edited by TedStriker on Wednesday 25th November 13:30
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