330d F30 bottom end failure - bent conrods?

330d F30 bottom end failure - bent conrods?

Author
Discussion

TedStriker

Original Poster:

270 posts

41 months

Monday 26th October 2020
quotequote all
Booked in at Walkers of Rochdale. They have given me option of replace conrods and check other bits for around £1200-£1300+vat or full rebuild with 6 month/6000 mile warranty for £1800-£2500+vat. Both options include engine removal and refitting.

I guess I decide on which way to go once it's stripped down.

Either way it's cheaper than getting a 'unknown' second hand engine fitted and they're perfectly happy to acccept a partially dismantled vehicle with a box of bits in the boot!

Will update as and when the job progresses.

Thanks for all the help so far smile








JakeT

5,400 posts

119 months

Monday 26th October 2020
quotequote all
That's good to hear. Get them to put a chain on it too, since they're known to fail on these engines.


Do let us know the outcome. smile

Charlie Croker mk2

280 posts

99 months

Monday 26th October 2020
quotequote all
Even at £2500+ that looks very good value and it's far better than just taking the engine to them as as they are reinstalling in the car you can see it working before you take it away . Hope it all works out for you .

g3org3y

20,589 posts

190 months

Monday 26th October 2020
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Hope it all works out ok, best of luck.

TedStriker

Original Poster:

270 posts

41 months

Thursday 5th November 2020
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The verdict is in...

All 6 conrods bent, crankshaft journals scratched, rust in cylinder bores...

So it's a full rebuild. Not cheap at £2500+VAT but seems to be the going rate unless you go to the really suspect looking half priced rebuilds on ebay.

Sounds like it may be ready early next week though so the end is hopefully in sight.

Not my most successful punt!

Cheers,
Ted

Krikkit

26,494 posts

180 months

Thursday 5th November 2020
quotequote all
Bugger, sorry to hear that.

Doesn't sound totally unreasonable, you might get it done a few hundred quid cheaper but I wouldn't bother shopping around if you know this garage.

Are they re-using the crank or is it a replacement?

g3org3y

20,589 posts

190 months

Thursday 5th November 2020
quotequote all
Ouch, sorry to hear that Ted. At least you've got a diagnosis and a plan of action. Hope once this work is done the car is trouble free for many miles for you.

TedStriker

Original Poster:

270 posts

41 months

Monday 16th November 2020
quotequote all
So, I have the car back following 'Full Rebuild'. That included block hone, crankshaft polish, piston rings, main and big end bearings, 6 new conrods and a timing chain kit.

I just want to check with anyone knowledgeable here - could a rattle under light load and poor fuel consumption be caused by injectors not being coded correctly? Got a few issues but don't want to cast any aspersions on the quality of the work until I've checked the basics. I'm getting a noticeable rattle when pulling away from a standstill - my 4 pot Golf GTD sounds lovely in comparison! Definitely sounds engine/revs related and gets less under heavy load.

Is there anything else I should be resetting with ISTA+ after this much work?

Thanks,
Ted

helix402

7,824 posts

181 months

Monday 16th November 2020
quotequote all
Injectors shouldn’t need coding if they’ve not been changed and put back in the same cylinder. No need to change anything post rebuild with ISTA, you could clear adaptions if you want.

320d is all you need

2,114 posts

42 months

Monday 16th November 2020
quotequote all
Very unfortunate frown

These are normally pretty reliable.

320d is all you need

2,114 posts

42 months

Monday 16th November 2020
quotequote all
TedStriker said:
The verdict is in...

All 6 conrods bent, crankshaft journals scratched, rust in cylinder bores...

So it's a full rebuild. Not cheap at £2500+VAT but seems to be the going rate unless you go to the really suspect looking half priced rebuilds on ebay.

Sounds like it may be ready early next week though so the end is hopefully in sight.

Not my most successful punt!

Cheers,
Ted
Almost sounds like engine was flood damaged or had some other major issue. 6 rods bending!!!

TedStriker

Original Poster:

270 posts

41 months

Monday 16th November 2020
quotequote all
helix402 said:
Injectors shouldn’t need coding if they’ve not been changed and put back in the same cylinder. No need to change anything post rebuild with ISTA, you could clear adaptions if you want.
The injectors were unlabelled in a box in the boot when they got the car - so unlikely they've gone back in the same places. I'll plug it in later today and see if they've recoded them.

clio007

541 posts

224 months

Monday 16th November 2020
quotequote all
Why fart about with a rebuild. Is that the cost for a bottom end rebuild? Maybe there is an issue with the top end too?

You should have chucked the engine out as soon as you had the chance

TedStriker

Original Poster:

270 posts

41 months

Monday 16th November 2020
quotequote all
clio007 said:
Why fart about with a rebuild. Is that the cost for a bottom end rebuild? Maybe there is an issue with the top end too?

You should have chucked the engine out as soon as you had the chance
And then done what?

g3org3y

20,589 posts

190 months

Tuesday 17th November 2020
quotequote all
TedStriker said:
So, I have the car back following 'Full Rebuild'. That included block hone, crankshaft polish, piston rings, main and big end bearings, 6 new conrods and a timing chain kit.

I just want to check with anyone knowledgeable here - could a rattle under light load and poor fuel consumption be caused by injectors not being coded correctly? Got a few issues but don't want to cast any aspersions on the quality of the work until I've checked the basics. I'm getting a noticeable rattle when pulling away from a standstill - my 4 pot Golf GTD sounds lovely in comparison! Definitely sounds engine/revs related and gets less under heavy load.

Is there anything else I should be resetting with ISTA+ after this much work?

Thanks,
Ted
I think following such a extensive rebuild, I'd expect the car to be spot on. I'd go back to the company that did the work and explain your concerns.

clio007

541 posts

224 months

Tuesday 17th November 2020
quotequote all
TedStriker said:
And then done what?
Put a another engine in. You only need it for a couple of months as mentioned so I guess your plan was to flip it anyway.

Engine would be around 2k plus fitting. Would have cost the same as would you spent. You have now done a bottom end rebuild and you have the same problem as before. Probably a top end issue

Zener

18,925 posts

220 months

Tuesday 17th November 2020
quotequote all
g3org3y said:
TedStriker said:
So, I have the car back following 'Full Rebuild'. That included block hone, crankshaft polish, piston rings, main and big end bearings, 6 new conrods and a timing chain kit.

I just want to check with anyone knowledgeable here - could a rattle under light load and poor fuel consumption be caused by injectors not being coded correctly? Got a few issues but don't want to cast any aspersions on the quality of the work until I've checked the basics. I'm getting a noticeable rattle when pulling away from a standstill - my 4 pot Golf GTD sounds lovely in comparison! Definitely sounds engine/revs related and gets less under heavy load.

Is there anything else I should be resetting with ISTA+ after this much work?

Thanks,
Ted
I think following such a extensive rebuild, I'd expect the car to be spot on. I'd go back to the company that did the work and explain your concerns.
This ^ thumbup you could confirm coding and inj cyl placement though wont do any harm, dont however interfere with their work before they have had a looksy

TedStriker

Original Poster:

270 posts

41 months

Wednesday 25th November 2020
quotequote all
A follow up to this...

Still getting noticeable rattle under light load (worse when warmed up). Checked injectors and they were not coded to correct cylinders. Have rectified this and it's made no difference. The noise does sound 'injectory' though - it's most prevalent between 1500 and 2500rpm and comes on if you lightly accelerate.

Also noticed while checking the injector values that 2 fault codes have been logged for the air mass system:

24CE00 - Measured air mass compared with calculated air mass too high
290900 - Air mass system: Measured air mass too high

Googling suggests a boost or intake piping leak.

Video below - rattle driving at 20mph and lightly applying throttle, then whine when I get next to a wall. This was with a fully warmed up engine. Ignore the spueak, that was just the handbrake.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L-1nFDKph6A

















Edited by TedStriker on Wednesday 25th November 13:30

Jaybmw

315 posts

80 months

Wednesday 25th November 2020
quotequote all
That's sounds like a prob donut to me.. can you feel it more so in the middle or to the rear or is it in the engine ?

TedStriker

Original Poster:

270 posts

41 months

Wednesday 25th November 2020
quotequote all
Jaybmw said:
That's sounds like a prob donut to me.. can you feel it more so in the middle or to the rear or is it in the engine ?
Almost certain it's engine related - it changes based on engine speed not road speed, and happens to a lesser degree when stationary too.