E39 528i overheating - run out of ideas - suggestions needed
Discussion
My dad's 528 (P 97') with about 100K on the clock has had a recent problem of overheating every time it is used, he has taken it to a local garage who have replaced several bits. Some of which seemed to make the problem go away for a short time until the problem re-occurs. Both my Dad and the garage are out of ideas.
They have replaced:
head gasket
Radiator
Water pump
but the car still overheats even on a very short journey.
One possibly related fact is that the interior heater system does not work at all. Could this be related? or a cause or a symptom.
Any ideas gratefully received,
Cheers Bob
They have replaced:
head gasket
Radiator
Water pump
but the car still overheats even on a very short journey.
One possibly related fact is that the interior heater system does not work at all. Could this be related? or a cause or a symptom.
Any ideas gratefully received,
Cheers Bob
fat80b said:
My dad's 528 (P 97') with about 100K on the clock has had a recent problem of overheating every time it is used, he has taken it to a local garage who have replaced several bits. Some of which seemed to make the problem go away for a short time until the problem re-occurs. Both my Dad and the garage are out of ideas.
They have replaced:
head gasket
Radiator
Water pump
but the car still overheats even on a very short journey.
One possibly related fact is that the interior heater system does not work at all. Could this be related? or a cause or a symptom.
Any ideas gratefully received,
Cheers Bob
Airlock? These engines can be a devil to bleed sometimesThey have replaced:
head gasket
Radiator
Water pump
but the car still overheats even on a very short journey.
One possibly related fact is that the interior heater system does not work at all. Could this be related? or a cause or a symptom.
Any ideas gratefully received,
Cheers Bob
Thermostat
Viscous fan coupling
Edited by Shropshiremike on Friday 22 January 11:35
fat80b said:
My dad's 528 (P 97') with about 100K on the clock has had a recent problem of overheating every time it is used, he has taken it to a local garage who have replaced several bits. Some of which seemed to make the problem go away for a short time until the problem re-occurs. Both my Dad and the garage are out of ideas.
They have replaced:
head gasket
Radiator
Water pump
but the car still overheats even on a very short journey.
One possibly related fact is that the interior heater system does not work at all. Could this be related? or a cause or a symptom.
Any ideas gratefully received,
Cheers Bob
Hhhmmm, i see they went for all the cheap options first They have replaced:
head gasket
Radiator
Water pump
but the car still overheats even on a very short journey.
One possibly related fact is that the interior heater system does not work at all. Could this be related? or a cause or a symptom.
Any ideas gratefully received,
Cheers Bob
bit naughty but i suppose thats what you should expect from your local mender....Sounds like thermostat stuck shut to me.
How long does it take to overheat? from stone cold in steady driving.
If the temp gauge keeps going up and up and up and up it's probs thermostat.
If it stays at tdc for a while then your thermostat is probably opening and letting in the cooler water from rad, before boiling that.
Although the fact that the heater doesn't work also points to an Airlock.
The system needs to be bled with the heaters on blowing full hot. I suspect this wasn't done?
How long does it take to overheat? from stone cold in steady driving.
If the temp gauge keeps going up and up and up and up it's probs thermostat.
If it stays at tdc for a while then your thermostat is probably opening and letting in the cooler water from rad, before boiling that.
Although the fact that the heater doesn't work also points to an Airlock.
The system needs to be bled with the heaters on blowing full hot. I suspect this wasn't done?
Was the head pressure tested when the HG was done? Has the cooling system been pressure tested since?
These are prone to sticking stats, but I would be disappointed if that had not been replaced. They are also a bugger to bleed, as mentioned.
When you say the heater does not work at all, I take it you mean it never blows hot air, not that the blower does not work?
These are prone to sticking stats, but I would be disappointed if that had not been replaced. They are also a bugger to bleed, as mentioned.
When you say the heater does not work at all, I take it you mean it never blows hot air, not that the blower does not work?
A stuck shut thermostat won't stop the heater from getting hot inside. It just decided between short loop (block and heater matrix) and long loop (block, matrix and rad)
Keep a close eye on coolant levels to see if they move, it does follow an airlock pattern, and you can get airlocks when the heater matrix valve isn't open during bleeding, or if it can't open.
Keep a close eye on coolant levels to see if they move, it does follow an airlock pattern, and you can get airlocks when the heater matrix valve isn't open during bleeding, or if it can't open.
Cheers for the suggestions.
I am not sure if the thermostat ahs been replaced, I will get them to check that first thing.
And look into the airlock.
Paoloh/essayer - I don’t think it is a head issue or a Nikasil issue – as they have looked into the head and the bottom end was done under recall years ago.
Cheers everyone, I will get my dad to look into these and report back on the findings
Bob
I am not sure if the thermostat ahs been replaced, I will get them to check that first thing.
And look into the airlock.
oOTomOo said:
How long does it take to overheat? from stone cold in steady driving.
If the temp gauge keeps going up and up and up and up it's probs thermostat.
Yep – it heats up almost straight away – and is hot within a few miles.If the temp gauge keeps going up and up and up and up it's probs thermostat.
oOTomOo said:
Although the fact that the heater doesn't work also points to an Airlock.
The system needs to be bled with the heaters on blowing full hot. I suspect this wasn't done?
I am guessing not.The system needs to be bled with the heaters on blowing full hot. I suspect this wasn't done?
Paoloh/essayer - I don’t think it is a head issue or a Nikasil issue – as they have looked into the head and the bottom end was done under recall years ago.
eliot said:
The thermostat is usually on the return (lower) hose, so the easiest way to diagnose is the fact that the return hose will be cool and the top hose will be hot and probably rock-hard.
This sounds like the first thing to try Cheers everyone, I will get my dad to look into these and report back on the findings
Bob
Try my method of beeding the engine (I have never had issues with my 523 or 528).
Put the car up on ramps (helps the water fall back into the heater matrix and makes the rad slightly higher)
Set the cabin temp to max to open the valves.
Drain all the coolant including the block (there is a drain nut above the manifold near cylnder 3/4 if I rember correctly).
Turn ign on to get the electric water pump running (if fitted Im sure m52 engines have the pump)
remove both bleed screws (stat and rad)
Start filling with water slowly.
Close bleed screws when water stars to come out
when water starts comming out the overflow pipe in the neck of the coolant tank leave it for a few mins opening and closing the bleed screws to get rid of any air and once satisfied run the engine.
Dont let the coolant tank run empty as you may introduce more air.
Out of intrest is the water pump ok? To check when you start the engine the coolant should be spraying out of the overflow pipe at higher pressure into the expantion tank as you rev the engine.
My 528 was running hot and i ended up fitting a new rad as the origoinal one was fubared (bowed at bottom)
Hope that helps
edited
Just re read and you have a new rad.... and my car is the m52tu engine but they are almost the same I think
Put the car up on ramps (helps the water fall back into the heater matrix and makes the rad slightly higher)
Set the cabin temp to max to open the valves.
Drain all the coolant including the block (there is a drain nut above the manifold near cylnder 3/4 if I rember correctly).
Turn ign on to get the electric water pump running (if fitted Im sure m52 engines have the pump)
remove both bleed screws (stat and rad)
Start filling with water slowly.
Close bleed screws when water stars to come out
when water starts comming out the overflow pipe in the neck of the coolant tank leave it for a few mins opening and closing the bleed screws to get rid of any air and once satisfied run the engine.
Dont let the coolant tank run empty as you may introduce more air.
Out of intrest is the water pump ok? To check when you start the engine the coolant should be spraying out of the overflow pipe at higher pressure into the expantion tank as you rev the engine.
My 528 was running hot and i ended up fitting a new rad as the origoinal one was fubared (bowed at bottom)
Hope that helps
edited
Just re read and you have a new rad.... and my car is the m52tu engine but they are almost the same I think
Edited by 528Sport on Monday 25th January 11:39
Edited by 528Sport on Monday 25th January 11:41
I had alot problems with my 520 overheating read all the posts hed the car in garage and had thermostat changed two days later over heated again took it back said it had'nt overheated with them again overheated looked into it deeper and found top to expansion tank had worn seeling rings one was actually falling apart bmw supplied one for 16.40 been driving it for a week no
overheating and all the comments about 39 bmw's being bad get air out of just slowly put coolant in with engine running open bleed valve and let it run for 30 minutes before closing valve and putting lid on leave for 30 minutes more and it will be fine ( change the expansion lid for a genuin one and do not over tighten) my beemer was pulling air in from worn rubber o rings on the top of tank and im sure this is the fault with the other cars iv'e read about
overheating and all the comments about 39 bmw's being bad get air out of just slowly put coolant in with engine running open bleed valve and let it run for 30 minutes before closing valve and putting lid on leave for 30 minutes more and it will be fine ( change the expansion lid for a genuin one and do not over tighten) my beemer was pulling air in from worn rubber o rings on the top of tank and im sure this is the fault with the other cars iv'e read about
Delb said:
I had alot problems with my 520 overheating read all the posts hed the car in garage and had thermostat changed two days later over heated again took it back said it had'nt overheated with them again overheated looked into it deeper and found top to expansion tank had worn seeling rings one was actually falling apart bmw supplied one for 16.40 been driving it for a week no
overheating and all the comments about 39 bmw's being bad get air out of just slowly put coolant in with engine running open bleed valve and let it run for 30 minutes before closing valve and putting lid on leave for 30 minutes more and it will be fine ( change the expansion lid for a genuin one and do not over tighten) my beemer was pulling air in from worn rubber o rings on the top of tank and im sure this is the fault with the other cars iv'e read about
And breathe...... overheating and all the comments about 39 bmw's being bad get air out of just slowly put coolant in with engine running open bleed valve and let it run for 30 minutes before closing valve and putting lid on leave for 30 minutes more and it will be fine ( change the expansion lid for a genuin one and do not over tighten) my beemer was pulling air in from worn rubber o rings on the top of tank and im sure this is the fault with the other cars iv'e read about
Definitely an airlock!
These can be an absolute b
d to bleed!
One "bodge" around it is to disconnect the middle pipe out of the three going to the heate solenoid valves. When fluid comes out without bubbling while the engine is shut down you're good to go.
I and a friend have resolved two overheating BMWs using the above. The first was an E36 323i we owned. The second was an E46 328i ; that ran much cooler afterwards and with a superb heater.
These can be an absolute b
d to bleed!One "bodge" around it is to disconnect the middle pipe out of the three going to the heate solenoid valves. When fluid comes out without bubbling while the engine is shut down you're good to go.
I and a friend have resolved two overheating BMWs using the above. The first was an E36 323i we owned. The second was an E46 328i ; that ran much cooler afterwards and with a superb heater.
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