The friendly "dumb" bike questions thread
Discussion
BrassMan said:
Probably been asked before, but:
Who's best for further training, AIM, RoSPA, BikeSafe or someone else?
It's not for track days or more speed, it's for getting better bike control and not flinging myself down the road.
I guess it depends on what you want to get out of it and who your local group is. I find that most of my experience on the course is based on the observer I've got and the local group. My observer is great, the regional group activities are very good but my local group is just ok. There are always loads of choices though. Sorry, that's not that helpful and you're probably better served contacting the groups local to you and see who you like best.Who's best for further training, AIM, RoSPA, BikeSafe or someone else?
It's not for track days or more speed, it's for getting better bike control and not flinging myself down the road.
I'm with the IAM by the way and my regional area is tvam. I've done track training with them at Thruxton and a low speed handling course which was superb. They do a monthly group get together, observation morning which is very good although I've only made it to it once. They've arranged seminars as well although I've only been to one of those to listen to Austin Vince speak.
Overall my riding is a lot better, a lot safer and a lot more confident. Glad I'm doing it but it does require a hefty commitment of time.
BrassMan said:
Probably been asked before, but:
Who's best for further training, AIM, RoSPA, BikeSafe or someone else?
It's not for track days or more speed, it's for getting better bike control and not flinging myself down the road.
I don't know anything about BikeSafe, but IAM ad ROSPA operate through regional groups with a number of members and observers. The coverage and activity level varies by area i.e. where I am there isn't really a local ROSPA group so it's IAM or nothing. But the individual groups are also relatively autonomous so some will do loads of runs and events, others less so. And since the observers are humans (in the main) some will be regular bikers and friendly, others will ride BMWs and wear textiles Who's best for further training, AIM, RoSPA, BikeSafe or someone else?
It's not for track days or more speed, it's for getting better bike control and not flinging myself down the road.
The training and experience you get will be much the same though - so visit the local groups of each (and maybe groups in an adjacent areas too) and see who you gel with best. In the summer my IAM group do regular runs and prospective members can tag along to see what it's like. Most other groups should do something similar, but it's up to the groups what they do and how that handle prospective members. But most groups will be all too keen to encourage new members so you won't be pushing against a closed door. You may still, unfortunately, get an observer you don't get on with - but that's not to say your initial choice of IAM, ROSPA or whatever was wrong so just change the observer. Only thing to bear in mind is with IAM once you've passed the test you've go that accreditation for life. With ROSPA it's time limited and you have to do re-tests to keep it active - every 2 years I think? So if the aim is simply to brush up on and get skills and get a cert for life then IAM may be a better bet. If you want to keep on the case and get tested again every so often then ROSPA.BrassMan said:
Probably been asked before, but:
Who's best for further training, AIM, RoSPA, BikeSafe or someone else?
It's not for track days or more speed, it's for getting better bike control and not flinging myself down the road.
Im in RoSPA. Who's best for further training, AIM, RoSPA, BikeSafe or someone else?
It's not for track days or more speed, it's for getting better bike control and not flinging myself down the road.
I dont think there is that much difference in costs when you work out yearly fees, assessments etc
both offer excellent training often from ex or serving Police riders. Depending on regions (and free time of instructors) you may have some instructors that serve both organisations.
Some regions are served better by one org than another, and as always much is down to personalities. You join any group in life and you either relate to the people there or you dont. You wont know until you try. Both groups do open days, and free assessment rides.
I started my RoSPA training 7 years ago after 2 year break from driving/riding, following a bad accident. Seemed like a good thing to do to get my confidence back and reduce the insurance premiums. I've since done my RoSPA assessment twice, really get on with a few of the guys in the regional group and my insurance has never been cheaper so all good
Which is less likely to dissolve when being used everyday in a coastal location, stored outside (although covered and out of the worst of it); Triumph or Yamaha?
Might not make any odds but when I bought a Suzuki I was told with absolute certainty that it would be an orange puddle within a matter of weeks. Had it for nearly a year as per conditions above and it’s fine.
Might not make any odds but when I bought a Suzuki I was told with absolute certainty that it would be an orange puddle within a matter of weeks. Had it for nearly a year as per conditions above and it’s fine.
I would think it depends on the model as much, if not more, than the brand.
Anecdotally, I know currently, at least two, Triumph dealers are telling customers their fasteners etc. have been revised for the new Speed Triple, with claims of better corrosion resistance. They certainly look quality parts in many instances.
How true the claim is however, I don't know. I know all the Japanese dealers make similar claims of superiority to one another. In reality I've read there's only actually a small number of factories that supply the bolts and fasteners to the manufacturers in Japan (and probably beyond), so there's almost certainly a degree of overlap in the land of the rising rust. Which shows how much b
ks is potentially being perpetuated.
I don't share your experience with Suzuki however. I had enormous problems with the finish and fasteners on my L3 GSXR despite it being very meticulously maintained and was quite new. Similar is true of my new Honda, which actually has an approved warranty claim as the corrosion is unacceptable. Perhaps my own expectations are too high, but old Honda metal certainly seems a lot more resistant.
How you would tell for sure however, I'm not sure. Owner's always bias their own choices, and used bike conditions are highly variable due to maintenance, but back to my point, I would have expected more premium flagship bikes to typically be made from higher quality components.
Anecdotally, I know currently, at least two, Triumph dealers are telling customers their fasteners etc. have been revised for the new Speed Triple, with claims of better corrosion resistance. They certainly look quality parts in many instances.
How true the claim is however, I don't know. I know all the Japanese dealers make similar claims of superiority to one another. In reality I've read there's only actually a small number of factories that supply the bolts and fasteners to the manufacturers in Japan (and probably beyond), so there's almost certainly a degree of overlap in the land of the rising rust. Which shows how much b
ks is potentially being perpetuated.I don't share your experience with Suzuki however. I had enormous problems with the finish and fasteners on my L3 GSXR despite it being very meticulously maintained and was quite new. Similar is true of my new Honda, which actually has an approved warranty claim as the corrosion is unacceptable. Perhaps my own expectations are too high, but old Honda metal certainly seems a lot more resistant.
How you would tell for sure however, I'm not sure. Owner's always bias their own choices, and used bike conditions are highly variable due to maintenance, but back to my point, I would have expected more premium flagship bikes to typically be made from higher quality components.
A500leroy said:
can i lube my clutch/throttle cable without dismantling it?, im v good at taking apart but always forget how to reassemble things.
The old fashioned way is to take a small plastic bag, cut the corner off it and tape that corner over the cable. The idea is that you hang the bag up with the cable trailing under it, put some oil in the bag and it'll gravity feed down the cable (ideally the inside). You'll need to disconnect it from the lever but that's all.Step two is to clean the mess up and sling the cable as you realise it's made no difference and the problem is that your cable has frayed.
horsemeatscandal said:
Which is less likely to dissolve when being used everyday in a coastal location, stored outside (although covered and out of the worst of it); Triumph or Yamaha?
Might not make any odds but when I bought a Suzuki I was told with absolute certainty that it would be an orange puddle within a matter of weeks. Had it for nearly a year as per conditions above and it’s fine.
Thanks for the two replies to my above question. I have absolutely no idea why it reposted two days later but there you go.Might not make any odds but when I bought a Suzuki I was told with absolute certainty that it would be an orange puddle within a matter of weeks. Had it for nearly a year as per conditions above and it’s fine.
I’d expect the British bike to be better suited to our roads but don’t know where Yamaha build various models of their bikes and whether they’re treated differently depending on where they’re going.
Fancy an MT-09 or an XSR900 (as long as I don’t feel like a retro t
t) for my next bike. Backup choice is a Street Triple. Not any time soon though so plenty of time to stock up on ACF-50. Ok, I've been riding for a decade or so from a young age and have gone through some powerful bikes and ridden through winter on a lot of them using 'summer' tyres if you like. In Feb I had an off on an R1 on muddy wet roads on I think power 2cts.
Question is; is there a big difference in using an 'all weather' tyre during the cold weather months - I realise you can't beat physics and road conditions as such, just interested to hear people's view.
Question is; is there a big difference in using an 'all weather' tyre during the cold weather months - I realise you can't beat physics and road conditions as such, just interested to hear people's view.
TommyBuoy said:
Ok, I've been riding for a decade or so from a young age and have gone through some powerful bikes and ridden through winter on a lot of them using 'summer' tyres if you like. In Feb I had an off on an R1 on muddy wet roads on I think power 2cts.
Question is; is there a big difference in using an 'all weather' tyre during the cold weather months - I realise you can't beat physics and road conditions as such, just interested to hear people's view.
Switching to tyres with more sipes / tread can help, primarily to get some heat into them. Pilot Road 4s would be a big improvement and also cope with just about anything you could throw at them on dry summer days too..Question is; is there a big difference in using an 'all weather' tyre during the cold weather months - I realise you can't beat physics and road conditions as such, just interested to hear people's view.
Yonks ago some people ran wets / psuedo wets in the cold / wet. I wouldn't go that way.
TommyBuoy said:
Ok, I've been riding for a decade or so from a young age and have gone through some powerful bikes and ridden through winter on a lot of them using 'summer' tyres if you like. In Feb I had an off on an R1 on muddy wet roads on I think power 2cts.
Nothing short of knobblies are going to give grip on mud, but as CousinDupree says sipes help get heat into the tyre and aid grip in wet conditions.As Father Christmas got me a selection of bike cleaners and an indoor cover I thought I’d get the bike out go for a early morning blast and then clean it and tuck it away... however I have no battery juice!
Although it’s been on trickle for the last couple of months it’s still died. Any recommendation on a new battery? I’ve never had to buy one before so don’t know what to lol for? I’d like to keep it to around £50 or under if possible?
The bike is a 2000 CBR600F if that makes odds to the battery?
Although it’s been on trickle for the last couple of months it’s still died. Any recommendation on a new battery? I’ve never had to buy one before so don’t know what to lol for? I’d like to keep it to around £50 or under if possible?
The bike is a 2000 CBR600F if that makes odds to the battery?
Danm1les said:
As Father Christmas got me a selection of bike cleaners and an indoor cover I thought I’d get the bike out go for a early morning blast and then clean it and tuck it away... however I have no battery juice!
Although it’s been on trickle for the last couple of months it’s still died. Any recommendation on a new battery? I’ve never had to buy one before so don’t know what to lol for? I’d like to keep it to around £50 or under if possible?
The bike is a 2000 CBR600F if that makes odds to the battery?
Motobatt. Replaced my old Yuasa battery with it and its been great. Starts on the button after weeks of being sat in the garage.Although it’s been on trickle for the last couple of months it’s still died. Any recommendation on a new battery? I’ve never had to buy one before so don’t know what to lol for? I’d like to keep it to around £50 or under if possible?
The bike is a 2000 CBR600F if that makes odds to the battery?
CousinDupree said:
TommyBuoy said:
Ok, I've been riding for a decade or so from a young age and have gone through some powerful bikes and ridden through winter on a lot of them using 'summer' tyres if you like. In Feb I had an off on an R1 on muddy wet roads on I think power 2cts.
Question is; is there a big difference in using an 'all weather' tyre during the cold weather months - I realise you can't beat physics and road conditions as such, just interested to hear people's view.
Switching to tyres with more sipes / tread can help, primarily to get some heat into them. Pilot Road 4s would be a big improvement and also cope with just about anything you could throw at them on dry summer days too..Question is; is there a big difference in using an 'all weather' tyre during the cold weather months - I realise you can't beat physics and road conditions as such, just interested to hear people's view.
Yonks ago some people ran wets / psuedo wets in the cold / wet. I wouldn't go that way.
as this is the dumb bike question thread, i feel safe asking this
only been riding for a year and done 3.5k miles on a harley sportster. now i know this is still very low experiance, but i still dont feel very confident riding. i have this thing in the back of my head that the bike is just gonna wash out from under me when in a bend.
im guessing the answer is just gain more experiance. will a bike just wash out from under you? can imagine im not any where near the bikes limits.
thanks
only been riding for a year and done 3.5k miles on a harley sportster. now i know this is still very low experiance, but i still dont feel very confident riding. i have this thing in the back of my head that the bike is just gonna wash out from under me when in a bend.
im guessing the answer is just gain more experiance. will a bike just wash out from under you? can imagine im not any where near the bikes limits.
thanks
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