A picture a day...biker banter (Vol 5)
Discussion
redback911 said:
Mr OCD said:
podman said:
Was never in doubt it would look as good(if not better) than before..
Cheers dude ... I'm happy with it, couple bits I might change but will be done over Winter. I'm fixed now other than some minor aches so want to get back on and see how it goes over the Summer.K-Tech DDS35 Pro Shock, Woolich Quickshifter / Auto blipper and some extra pointless tat are going on ...
It would have went together a hell of a lot of faster, but I had some major aggro sourcing all the missing bits I needed... Fowlers came to my rescue and helped me source all the little bits in the end. Great people.
Annoyingly I have two small wellnuts missing ... total cost of 80p, but until I have them can do no more ... although in fairness until the ECU comes back from Woolich UK it wont run anyway!
Biker's Nemesis said:
andym1603 said:
Ouch, Very similar looking damage. Detonation would've been cheaper and easier to repair.
It would, I've had many detonation problem over my younger years back in the early 1980's, Its the reason I still ride with my finger over the clutch, I don't even know I'm doing it until I see photos.2ndclasscitizen said:
Sydney, just south of the CBD. Pics were taken in Brooklyn.
Lucky man! I stayed in Brooklyn about 10 yrs ago, love it round there. I was in Sydney last week, now I'm in Noosa until the end of the month. I rented a R1200GS for the day today and took off into the hills, it's biking heaven up here.
knitware said:
I annihilated my chicken strips today at Silverstone, I love that place, fast and as wide as a motorway, 49 degree lean angle achieved, so the bike tells me.
Edited by Gavia on Thursday 2nd August 22:18
Biker's Nemesis said:
cmaguire said:
That is really poor. I would 'port' the gasket so it worked properly. Really disappointed with that
I thought about doing that when I fitted it 3 years ago but for some reason I didn't bother.I'll have a look for the old gasket.
Melted a few pistons below the second ring a few times and once lost the bottom half of a piston out the exhaust port but it never seized
I take it the TZR engine has the barrel separate from the crank cases and uses base gaskets?
You could, depending on how brave you're feeling lap the head to the top of the barrel then use bathroom sealant instead of a head gasket and extra base gaskets to get the squish just right.
It the piston crown coated at all? If not and you know anyone with a decent lathe I'd suggest spinning the piston up in the chuck as fast as you can and giving the crown a careful going over with some worn out 1200 grit 'wet n dry' followed by some AutoSol and cotton wool until you get a mirror finish.
Thread a bit of bar to M14x1.25 with a nice square shoulder, hold that in the chuck and you can locate the head easily to polish that too.
You could index the plug with shims but it's probably easier/cheaper to buy a few and mark where the electrode is with a blob of paint and see where it ends up when tightened.
Tango13 said:
When you rebuilt it before I take it you did the lead solder down the plughole>kickstart>micrometer check on the squish? My brother was fairly rabid about measuring the squish and performing plug chops on his 350LC race bike and not once did it seize.
Melted a few pistons below the second ring a few times and once lost the bottom half of a piston out the exhaust port but it never seized
I take it the TZR engine has the barrel separate from the crank cases and uses base gaskets?
You could, depending on how brave you're feeling lap the head to the top of the barrel then use bathroom sealant instead of a head gasket and extra base gaskets to get the squish just right.
It the piston crown coated at all? If not and you know anyone with a decent lathe I'd suggest spinning the piston up in the chuck as fast as you can and giving the crown a careful going over with some worn out 1200 grit 'wet n dry' followed by some AutoSol and cotton wool until you get a mirror finish.
Thread a bit of bar to M14x1.25 with a nice square shoulder, hold that in the chuck and you can locate the head easily to polish that too.
You could index the plug with shims but it's probably easier/cheaper to buy a few and mark where the electrode is with a blob of paint and see where it ends up when tightened.
The big end collapsed.Melted a few pistons below the second ring a few times and once lost the bottom half of a piston out the exhaust port but it never seized
I take it the TZR engine has the barrel separate from the crank cases and uses base gaskets?
You could, depending on how brave you're feeling lap the head to the top of the barrel then use bathroom sealant instead of a head gasket and extra base gaskets to get the squish just right.
It the piston crown coated at all? If not and you know anyone with a decent lathe I'd suggest spinning the piston up in the chuck as fast as you can and giving the crown a careful going over with some worn out 1200 grit 'wet n dry' followed by some AutoSol and cotton wool until you get a mirror finish.
Thread a bit of bar to M14x1.25 with a nice square shoulder, hold that in the chuck and you can locate the head easily to polish that too.
You could index the plug with shims but it's probably easier/cheaper to buy a few and mark where the electrode is with a blob of paint and see where it ends up when tightened.
I did check the squish and also did do a plug chop when I jetted it. I has done a few thousand miles mostly flat out with nigh on 15 stone on its back.
The piston isn't coated, its a standard TZR piston in an old LC.I don't want to say to much as there are spies on here that own 125 LCs that I ride with and burn off.
Say nowt city if you know the crack.
Biker's Nemesis said:
The big end collapsed.
I did check the squish and also did do a plug chop when I jetted it. I has done a few thousand miles mostly flat out with nigh on 15 stone on its back.
The piston isn't coated, its a standard TZR piston in an old LC.I don't want to say to much as there are spies on here that own 125 LCs that I ride with and burn off.
Say nowt city if you know the crack.
Way nur I did check the squish and also did do a plug chop when I jetted it. I has done a few thousand miles mostly flat out with nigh on 15 stone on its back.
The piston isn't coated, its a standard TZR piston in an old LC.I don't want to say to much as there are spies on here that own 125 LCs that I ride with and burn off.
Say nowt city if you know the crack.
Prof Prolapse said:
Changed my tyres myself today... But had these two bits left over, can anyone help identify?
They came off the spokes but I’m damned if i can work out which ones... do I need to put them back on?
They look like balancing weights so if you've fitted a new tyre you'll need to rebalance it to find out where to put them They came off the spokes but I’m damned if i can work out which ones... do I need to put them back on?
Prof Prolapse said:
Haha. I didn’t realise that’s what they were! Thanks very much.
I fitted some stick on ones.. I’ll get it rebalanced with proper weights then.
I knew it all went far too smoothly!
Some people prefer the stick on weights and some prefer spoke weights. As far as I know it's all down to aesthetics. How easy/hard was it to change the tyre? It's something I've never tried.I fitted some stick on ones.. I’ll get it rebalanced with proper weights then.
I knew it all went far too smoothly!
Biker's Nemesis said:
Tango13 said:
When you rebuilt it before I take it you did the lead solder down the plughole>kickstart>micrometer check on the squish? My brother was fairly rabid about measuring the squish and performing plug chops on his 350LC race bike and not once did it seize.
Melted a few pistons below the second ring a few times and once lost the bottom half of a piston out the exhaust port but it never seized
I take it the TZR engine has the barrel separate from the crank cases and uses base gaskets?
You could, depending on how brave you're feeling lap the head to the top of the barrel then use bathroom sealant instead of a head gasket and extra base gaskets to get the squish just right.
It the piston crown coated at all? If not and you know anyone with a decent lathe I'd suggest spinning the piston up in the chuck as fast as you can and giving the crown a careful going over with some worn out 1200 grit 'wet n dry' followed by some AutoSol and cotton wool until you get a mirror finish.
Thread a bit of bar to M14x1.25 with a nice square shoulder, hold that in the chuck and you can locate the head easily to polish that too.
You could index the plug with shims but it's probably easier/cheaper to buy a few and mark where the electrode is with a blob of paint and see where it ends up when tightened.
The big end collapsed.Melted a few pistons below the second ring a few times and once lost the bottom half of a piston out the exhaust port but it never seized
I take it the TZR engine has the barrel separate from the crank cases and uses base gaskets?
You could, depending on how brave you're feeling lap the head to the top of the barrel then use bathroom sealant instead of a head gasket and extra base gaskets to get the squish just right.
It the piston crown coated at all? If not and you know anyone with a decent lathe I'd suggest spinning the piston up in the chuck as fast as you can and giving the crown a careful going over with some worn out 1200 grit 'wet n dry' followed by some AutoSol and cotton wool until you get a mirror finish.
Thread a bit of bar to M14x1.25 with a nice square shoulder, hold that in the chuck and you can locate the head easily to polish that too.
You could index the plug with shims but it's probably easier/cheaper to buy a few and mark where the electrode is with a blob of paint and see where it ends up when tightened.
I did check the squish and also did do a plug chop when I jetted it. I has done a few thousand miles mostly flat out with nigh on 15 stone on its back.
The piston isn't coated, its a standard TZR piston in an old LC.I don't want to say to much as there are spies on here that own 125 LCs that I ride with and burn off.
Say nowt city if you know the crack.
The RD125 was designed for skinny little post pubescent teens weighing in at about 10 stone wringing wet so what you need is a 50% increase in cubic capacity to compensate for the extra 50% of weight. As an engineer I'd suggest a bit more cubic capacity just to be on the safe side so about double the CC would be right.
Get yourself a 250LC and some 125 stickers, if anyone asks just say it's a rare Jap import
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