Woolich ECU Flash
Discussion
After purchasing the BB R1 in August and putting some miles (over 3000 so far) in the seat I decided I wanted rid of the CAT pipe on the bike due to the heat output when commuting. On the open road it is fine, but through traffic the heat was pretty intense at the best of times. In addition to this the throttle mapping on these bikes is not the best with A-mode pretty much unusable unless you are riding it in a straight line. Standard mode is fine but still a little abrupt when on and off the throttle which upsets the balance of the bike when entering corners and B-mode is just slow. It turns out on these bikes like many others cuts fuel completely when rolling off the throttle, in addition the throttle control is not true 1:1 with the electronics defining how much the throttles open. If I remember correctly the throttles don’t full open until 9000rpm.
So after sitting thinking too much I contacted a few tuners in the NW to discuss my thoughts on how best to sort these issues. I felt P3 Tuning in Liverpool were the most helpful, not only listening to what I had to say but explaining in detail what is possible and making recommendations using their experience. I went ahead and booked a full day on the dyno to get the work done.
A Woolich racing ECU flash and custom mapping was agreed and in preparation I installed a Leo-Vince decat pipe, K&N air filter and gave the bike a quick oil change ready for drop of on Monday.
I’ll asked Jon from P3 Tuning to provide a bit more detail:
“After we read and save a copy of the original files we then begin by building a base map that removes any differences between gears including any trims and combine ignition tables again to stop any alterations between gears whilst we build the fuelling tables. Remove all restrictions and emission devices such as oxygen sensors, EXCV, top speed limiter, fuel decal cut etc.
The electronic throttle which is one of the R1’s biggest changes is made to react exact 1-1 from 3500 rpm meaning the twist grip position is the same as the throttle position, this allows the bike to feel more mechanical.
With the base tables complete we build through the fuelling tables by running the bike through each throttle position from idle to full revs to build data and go back into the ECU code to adjust the values to attain our target fuel ratio that of 13.1:1 for full power areas and 13.6:1 in steady areas (cruise areas). This is a process and takes a few runs through to get the target values this is first done with the TPS against revs then we go to the IAP against revs for the low down fuelling as the bike runs two tables one for idle and small throttle opening then reverts to throttle position once around 10% TPS.
The reason for this is idle control is very delicate and pressure is the best way to maintain smooth fuelling and therefore is crucial to custom map this table to get a really nice transition off/on throttle.
To complete the full custom map we now go through the ignition tables similarly to the fuelling mapping, table is a rev against throttle but throttle control is critical for ignition as the best way to monitor performance gains is by torque, we are finding a sweet spot where the best torque is generated, too much and we lose power and can run the risk of knocking but similarly if the throttle is 1%+/- it will change the torque.
Fuelling is then checked and trimmed and then it’s confirmed, any items disabled purely for the dyno are reactivated and where done, ready for road test.
The graph to really note is the time overlay showing how much quicker the bike pulls through.”
Pretty comprehensive I think you will agree!
With the mapping complete, throttle modes standard and B were tweaked slightly to complete the work. With standard being a little more economical (for the commute) and B mode being used for cold / rain weather.
At the same time P3 installed and setup a Healtech iQSE quickshifter. This allowed them to set it up on the dyno with minimal effort on my part. If you have not seen or used one of these yet they are incredible value for money. It was good to have a quickshifter back – something I have missed from the old bike.
So the results – what is it like?
When pulling away the first thing I notice is how quick it revs up as I’m over-revving it pulling away from standstill much to my amusement. Riding off and rolling on and off the throttle there is no more abruptness or heavy engine braking when using A mode (which is now default) and drives cleanly and quickly as you pick up revs. Out on to the open road I’m buggering about with the quickshifter and revving the bike out and it is apparent just how easy it is to ride now. I’m more relaxed and confident as the bike is doing what I want it to do, not what it thinks is best. The throttle connection is superb – not vague as it used to be and mean I can feed the throttle properly without the bike lurching.
It is simply a considerable difference. Yet dyno figures show only a gain of 5bhp at the top end – it simply doesn’t tell the whole story of the gains low-mid range and the speed of how that power is obtained. It’s amazing how many comments I’ve received that it is ‘only’ 156bhp … yet to ride this bike I never feel as though I need more peak power. Getting to that peak though is a whole different league compared to bikes I've previously ridden or owned. It just has instant grunt whenever I need it and rides like nothing else I’ve experienced. If you ride a BB R1 – getting it flashed transforms it and is how Yamaha should have sold them in the first place.
Top work from P3 Tuning. Jon and Paul are top lads and go above and beyond who have a very happy customer. I’d happy recommend them.
Video:
https://www.facebook.com/ppptuning/videos/19812033...
Graphs:
Final Run
Before and After
Speed Difference
So after sitting thinking too much I contacted a few tuners in the NW to discuss my thoughts on how best to sort these issues. I felt P3 Tuning in Liverpool were the most helpful, not only listening to what I had to say but explaining in detail what is possible and making recommendations using their experience. I went ahead and booked a full day on the dyno to get the work done.
A Woolich racing ECU flash and custom mapping was agreed and in preparation I installed a Leo-Vince decat pipe, K&N air filter and gave the bike a quick oil change ready for drop of on Monday.
I’ll asked Jon from P3 Tuning to provide a bit more detail:
“After we read and save a copy of the original files we then begin by building a base map that removes any differences between gears including any trims and combine ignition tables again to stop any alterations between gears whilst we build the fuelling tables. Remove all restrictions and emission devices such as oxygen sensors, EXCV, top speed limiter, fuel decal cut etc.
The electronic throttle which is one of the R1’s biggest changes is made to react exact 1-1 from 3500 rpm meaning the twist grip position is the same as the throttle position, this allows the bike to feel more mechanical.
With the base tables complete we build through the fuelling tables by running the bike through each throttle position from idle to full revs to build data and go back into the ECU code to adjust the values to attain our target fuel ratio that of 13.1:1 for full power areas and 13.6:1 in steady areas (cruise areas). This is a process and takes a few runs through to get the target values this is first done with the TPS against revs then we go to the IAP against revs for the low down fuelling as the bike runs two tables one for idle and small throttle opening then reverts to throttle position once around 10% TPS.
The reason for this is idle control is very delicate and pressure is the best way to maintain smooth fuelling and therefore is crucial to custom map this table to get a really nice transition off/on throttle.
To complete the full custom map we now go through the ignition tables similarly to the fuelling mapping, table is a rev against throttle but throttle control is critical for ignition as the best way to monitor performance gains is by torque, we are finding a sweet spot where the best torque is generated, too much and we lose power and can run the risk of knocking but similarly if the throttle is 1%+/- it will change the torque.
Fuelling is then checked and trimmed and then it’s confirmed, any items disabled purely for the dyno are reactivated and where done, ready for road test.
The graph to really note is the time overlay showing how much quicker the bike pulls through.”
Pretty comprehensive I think you will agree!
With the mapping complete, throttle modes standard and B were tweaked slightly to complete the work. With standard being a little more economical (for the commute) and B mode being used for cold / rain weather.
At the same time P3 installed and setup a Healtech iQSE quickshifter. This allowed them to set it up on the dyno with minimal effort on my part. If you have not seen or used one of these yet they are incredible value for money. It was good to have a quickshifter back – something I have missed from the old bike.
So the results – what is it like?
When pulling away the first thing I notice is how quick it revs up as I’m over-revving it pulling away from standstill much to my amusement. Riding off and rolling on and off the throttle there is no more abruptness or heavy engine braking when using A mode (which is now default) and drives cleanly and quickly as you pick up revs. Out on to the open road I’m buggering about with the quickshifter and revving the bike out and it is apparent just how easy it is to ride now. I’m more relaxed and confident as the bike is doing what I want it to do, not what it thinks is best. The throttle connection is superb – not vague as it used to be and mean I can feed the throttle properly without the bike lurching.
It is simply a considerable difference. Yet dyno figures show only a gain of 5bhp at the top end – it simply doesn’t tell the whole story of the gains low-mid range and the speed of how that power is obtained. It’s amazing how many comments I’ve received that it is ‘only’ 156bhp … yet to ride this bike I never feel as though I need more peak power. Getting to that peak though is a whole different league compared to bikes I've previously ridden or owned. It just has instant grunt whenever I need it and rides like nothing else I’ve experienced. If you ride a BB R1 – getting it flashed transforms it and is how Yamaha should have sold them in the first place.
Top work from P3 Tuning. Jon and Paul are top lads and go above and beyond who have a very happy customer. I’d happy recommend them.
Video:
https://www.facebook.com/ppptuning/videos/19812033...
Graphs:
Final Run
Before and After
Speed Difference
Edited by Mr OCD on Wednesday 22 November 14:53
Mr OCD said:
Jazoli said:
Only 5bhp, what a load of crap, 155bhp isn't a lot really these days is it? Do you feel a bit inadequate when a ZX10R pulls up alongside you? hell my shonky busa has more power than that......
Dreamer! 
You can't beat the feeling of a well set up bike, glad you're happy Scott.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LWydBxScoWM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LWydBxScoWM
Biker's Nemesis said:
You can't beat the feeling of a well set up bike, glad you're happy Scott.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LWydBxScoWM
Thanks John https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LWydBxScoWM
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