Discussion
I've got one of the new ones and it's going to be a hard act to follow. Plenty of good info on http://forums.sv650.org/
trickywoo said:
You aren’t the same chap that sold his after less than 500 miles and looking at goldwings then?
Don’t be a bell. I sold it because I wasn’t using it. Unlike some I didn’t buy the wrong bike for my skill or needs. TBH you can’t have played with the suspension very much, as you can make them very soft.
Just my opinion, great bikes, and the RS is worth more (to me) as it has a far better front end and the engine is more fun.
trickywoo said:
I’d look at the non-rs versions or get a very long test ride on the rs if that is what you are set on to make sure.
To be fair, I’d be looking at an R or even an S at the right price and/or location. Not to worry though, I’ll have changed my mind in a month or so.
On the SV, the one thing I remember people telling me is that they rust really badly. Well I ride mine every day in all weathers, it lives outside by the sea and the only bit of visible rust is on a bracket under the headlamp. And by no means do I clean it regularly. I’d like to say the bike is an absolute peach but I wouldn’t know as it’s the only bike I’ve ever owned.
2016, non-S.
Fond memories of mine too. Had it around 4 years, 2004 til 2008. Wrote it off in spectacular fashion when I collided with a tree nearly killing myself.
Great bike though, lovely engine and good around the Twisties although the brakes were fairly s
t compared to what I've had since.
I would probably put the Er6N up alongside it. I also had a 675 Street Triple R but not immediately afterwards. Much faster, better in the corners but quite a stiff ride and I didn't keep it half as long as the SV.
Great bike though, lovely engine and good around the Twisties although the brakes were fairly s
t compared to what I've had since. I would probably put the Er6N up alongside it. I also had a 675 Street Triple R but not immediately afterwards. Much faster, better in the corners but quite a stiff ride and I didn't keep it half as long as the SV.
I have one, but mine is too old and ropey to be able to assess meaningfully. It gets thoroughly abused, dropped, bounced of the limiter, left out in all weather by the sea without a cover and has little maintenance afforded it. Yet in spite of this, not only does it continue to perfectly serve it's function, it also manages to make me smile while it does it.
As a budget bike then, I heartily recommend it, but if my budget extended beyond what I could find down the back of the settee, I'm not sure I'd choose it over and above some of the alternatives.
As a budget bike then, I heartily recommend it, but if my budget extended beyond what I could find down the back of the settee, I'm not sure I'd choose it over and above some of the alternatives.
I ran a 1999 plate (carburetted) one for 8-9 years, commuting through london. If you get a carburetted one, then I have some things I can share.
Carbs - keep them balanced. It's not a difficult job being only two, it might help to extend the vacuum blank-offs with some rubber hose to make access easier / make the job quicker. For the front carburettor, the choke plunger can get some mild corrosion causing poor idling and poor running. Again, not a difficult thing to fix.
Another simple issue that can cause poor engine running is the exhaust gaskets perishing - particularly the rear. The way the pipes join together means water can set in the join and over time cause corrosion to set in. The engine will run lean as a result,causing erratic idling and snatchy fueling.
Oil - I ran mine on semi-synthetic oil, changing every 4000 miles with a genuine suzuki filter.Keep an eye on the oil level, I did have to top up between services but only once between services to the tune of 500 ml. You can run fully synthetic oil if that's your prefered option. If anyone tells you "thats bad for the clutch" tell them to fk off - motorcycle specific oils - JASO MA standard - will work with wet clutches. If you run fully synth and you develop clutch slip issues, then your clutch was already going bad. Fully synthetics are better for lubrication and for cooling, but I saw no issues with semi-synth in the 73,000 miles that my bike eventually had on it.
On the subject of the clutch - the "worm drive" needs adjusting every now and then. On the left hand side of the bike (gear change side), remove the sprocket cover.Slacken off the clutch cable, and when with a flat headed screw driver and a suitiable spanner, loosen the locknut of the clutch pushrod worm drive. Screw the pushrod in until it just touches whatever it touches (go back and forth to get a feel). Then with it just touching, back off 1/8 - 1/4 turn. Tighten up locknut, retension clutch cable, out cover back on.
Some people have issues with cam chain tensioners.This will sound like a machine-gun ticking which is apparent at all revs. There is a harmonic noise SV's get around 4000 rpm that you might think is a cam chain issue, but it's not.
Carb icing in winter can be an issue, you can either treat the fuel with some Silkolene PRO FST fuel additive, or - my prefered option - run on Shell V-Power. I found this gave better cold-starting, and better initial throttle response (when opening the throttle form a closed throttle position).
Brakes - simple, 2-piston sliding calioers on either side up front. They work best when they are clean. Keep on top of cleaning them, at least once a year.Calie0rs off, pads out,gently pump the pistons out until clean metal surface is showing, clean off all the st, give them a good polish up using very very very fine wet and dry or some autosol metal polish. Lubricate with red rubber grease (just a smear) and reassemble pads and pins with copper grease / your antiseize of choice on the appropriate surfaces. Braided lines dont make much of a difference, but fresh brake lines and good sintered pads do make much of a difference. The rear caliper is a twin piston (opposed) caliper, and being underslung gets a right beating from the elements. They need looking after as well and if it's not been done regularly will likely have seized pad retaining pins. Again, strip, clean, lube up with the right things and put back together and do it once a year. It's a very useful rear brake.
There is no temp gauge, all you get is a red LED which lights up if the engine is overheating. I never saw this. Change the engine coolant every couple of years.
When the petrol light comes on, you have 2 litres left of your 16 litres. The bike will easily do 10 miles per litre, so use the trip function and fill up every 130 - 140 miles knowing you have plenty in reserve. On a motorway run I always got 55 mpg.
Forks will benefit from a refresh - good quality (castrol) fork oil. There are lots of suspension tuning options out there. Rear shock - if it's standard, bin it and put a a hagon shock in. It will perform so much better. The OEM shock is very basic and poor and is done by 20,000 miles.
Keep themclean, keep them serviced and they will provide so much fun and enjoyment. I loved mine.
Carbs - keep them balanced. It's not a difficult job being only two, it might help to extend the vacuum blank-offs with some rubber hose to make access easier / make the job quicker. For the front carburettor, the choke plunger can get some mild corrosion causing poor idling and poor running. Again, not a difficult thing to fix.
Another simple issue that can cause poor engine running is the exhaust gaskets perishing - particularly the rear. The way the pipes join together means water can set in the join and over time cause corrosion to set in. The engine will run lean as a result,causing erratic idling and snatchy fueling.
Oil - I ran mine on semi-synthetic oil, changing every 4000 miles with a genuine suzuki filter.Keep an eye on the oil level, I did have to top up between services but only once between services to the tune of 500 ml. You can run fully synthetic oil if that's your prefered option. If anyone tells you "thats bad for the clutch" tell them to f
k off - motorcycle specific oils - JASO MA standard - will work with wet clutches. If you run fully synth and you develop clutch slip issues, then your clutch was already going bad. Fully synthetics are better for lubrication and for cooling, but I saw no issues with semi-synth in the 73,000 miles that my bike eventually had on it. On the subject of the clutch - the "worm drive" needs adjusting every now and then. On the left hand side of the bike (gear change side), remove the sprocket cover.Slacken off the clutch cable, and when with a flat headed screw driver and a suitiable spanner, loosen the locknut of the clutch pushrod worm drive. Screw the pushrod in until it just touches whatever it touches (go back and forth to get a feel). Then with it just touching, back off 1/8 - 1/4 turn. Tighten up locknut, retension clutch cable, out cover back on.
Some people have issues with cam chain tensioners.This will sound like a machine-gun ticking which is apparent at all revs. There is a harmonic noise SV's get around 4000 rpm that you might think is a cam chain issue, but it's not.
Carb icing in winter can be an issue, you can either treat the fuel with some Silkolene PRO FST fuel additive, or - my prefered option - run on Shell V-Power. I found this gave better cold-starting, and better initial throttle response (when opening the throttle form a closed throttle position).
Brakes - simple, 2-piston sliding calioers on either side up front. They work best when they are clean. Keep on top of cleaning them, at least once a year.Calie0rs off, pads out,gently pump the pistons out until clean metal surface is showing, clean off all the s
t, give them a good polish up using very very very fine wet and dry or some autosol metal polish. Lubricate with red rubber grease (just a smear) and reassemble pads and pins with copper grease / your antiseize of choice on the appropriate surfaces. Braided lines dont make much of a difference, but fresh brake lines and good sintered pads do make much of a difference. The rear caliper is a twin piston (opposed) caliper, and being underslung gets a right beating from the elements. They need looking after as well and if it's not been done regularly will likely have seized pad retaining pins. Again, strip, clean, lube up with the right things and put back together and do it once a year. It's a very useful rear brake. There is no temp gauge, all you get is a red LED which lights up if the engine is overheating. I never saw this. Change the engine coolant every couple of years.
When the petrol light comes on, you have 2 litres left of your 16 litres. The bike will easily do 10 miles per litre, so use the trip function and fill up every 130 - 140 miles knowing you have plenty in reserve. On a motorway run I always got 55 mpg.
Forks will benefit from a refresh - good quality (castrol) fork oil. There are lots of suspension tuning options out there. Rear shock - if it's standard, bin it and put a a hagon shock in. It will perform so much better. The OEM shock is very basic and poor and is done by 20,000 miles.
Keep themclean, keep them serviced and they will provide so much fun and enjoyment. I loved mine.
Edited by thatdude on Monday 19th August 09:18
thatdude said:
Brakes - simple, 2-piston sliding calioers on either side up front. They work best when they are clean. Keep on top of cleaning them, at least once a year.Calie0rs off, pads out,gently pump the pistons out until clean metal surface is showing, clean off all the st, give them a good polish up using very very very fine wet and dry or some autosol metal polish. Lubricate with red rubber grease (just a smear) and reassemble pads and pins with copper grease / your antiseize of choice on the appropriate surfaces.
Good advice on the brakes apart from the copper grease. Best avoided IMO - causes more issues than it solves.t, give them a good polish up using very very very fine wet and dry or some autosol metal polish. Lubricate with red rubber grease (just a smear) and reassemble pads and pins with copper grease / your antiseize of choice on the appropriate surfaces. trickywoo said:
Good advice on the brakes apart from the copper grease. Best avoided IMO - causes more issues than it solves.
Other antiseize materials are available - some are better, but for items like retaining pins not having any antiseize compound is a bad thing. Whatever you use, a smear is often enough. No antiseize on the pistons.It's worth noting that red rubber grease is vegetable fat based. Can use silicone grease (vacuum grease) as well for parts where rubber is involved if you cant get red rubber grease. Just no petroleum based greases around rubber parts as the rubber will absorb and swell.Never had any issues using cooper greases as an antiseize material
This thread has popped up at just the right time. My Mrs is just about to jump through all the necessary hoops to gain her full licence and I have been looking at these as a first bike for her.
Rule of thumb, what model year is generally accepted as being the best?
We are looking at spending between 2k and 4k.
Rule of thumb, what model year is generally accepted as being the best?
We are looking at spending between 2k and 4k.
airsafari87 said:
This thread has popped up at just the right time. My Mrs is just about to jump through all the necessary hoops to gain her full licence and I have been looking at these as a first bike for her.
Rule of thumb, what model year is generally accepted as being the best?
We are looking at spending between 2k and 4k.
2016 on is in budget and comes with ABS. They didn't change massively after getting fuel injection though. At the price it would be worth getting as new as you can IMO. I picked up an 18 month old one last year with 2.5k miles on it for £4k with the roll top seat, bikini screen and evotech rad guard.Rule of thumb, what model year is generally accepted as being the best?
We are looking at spending between 2k and 4k.
thatdude said:
but for items like retaining pins not having any antiseize compound is a bad thing.
Have a google and a youtube when you fancy and come back and let me know if you still think the same.I used to be a anti-seize person for brakes but not any more. It really does cause more problems than it solves anywhere near brakes. I'm not saying it doesn't have some use just not on brake components.
trickywoo said:
Have a google and a youtube when you fancy and come back and let me know if you still think the same.
I used to be a anti-seize person for brakes but not any more. It really does cause more problems than it solves anywhere near brakes. I'm not saying it doesn't have some use just not on brake components.
Fair enough. Have you encountered any problems personally?I used to be a anti-seize person for brakes but not any more. It really does cause more problems than it solves anywhere near brakes. I'm not saying it doesn't have some use just not on brake components.
What else can someone use to prevent seizing of key items, like pad retaining pins?
thatdude said:
trickywoo said:
Have a google and a youtube when you fancy and come back and let me know if you still think the same.
I used to be a anti-seize person for brakes but not any more. It really does cause more problems than it solves anywhere near brakes. I'm not saying it doesn't have some use just not on brake components.
Fair enough. Have you encountered any problems personally?I used to be a anti-seize person for brakes but not any more. It really does cause more problems than it solves anywhere near brakes. I'm not saying it doesn't have some use just not on brake components.
What else can someone use to prevent seizing of key items, like pad retaining pins?
I've seen quite a few sticky calipers where people have tried to fix it by greasing the pins. Just makes it worse. The pins shouldn't need greasing to work. If they become corroded or wear unevenly over time you just replace them. Putting grease on them won't help with wear.
Its particularly nasty to rubber components so if you have a boot on the pins it won't do them any good.
There won't be a new bike anywhere that comes out of the factory with anti-seize on any of the brake components and that isn't a money saving exercise.
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