New commuting rider - loads of questions!
Discussion
croyde said:
Sway said:
croyde said:
So £4600 gets you a new 500cc Honda with all servicing chucked in.
Last time I was at P&H I didn't see any deals close to that
Am I missing out the bit with the big deposit?
£500 for doing my training with an approved Honda riding school. Last time I was at P&H I didn't see any deals close to that
Am I missing out the bit with the big deposit?
£500 Honda deposit contribution.
Then based on the finance calc, the monthly set aside to cover the balloon, and the service plans available - and I come to the monthly figures...
Hey, I'm currently spending £550 a month on fuel - plus a chunky insurance and (self) servicing/parts replacement spend...
I'm working off £260 a month all in except fuel. Can live with £300, I'd still be massively quids in.
Re kit for commuting, the best advice I got was from the Dainese shop in Chelmsford.
I was a newbie looking for winter kit in February. I happened to mention I cycled, and he said to use those base layers and get a different jacket that could would work in the summer instead.
So I ended up getting a summer vented/textile jacket that had a detachable windproof layer.
Wearing this with a merino wool base layer, and cycling trousers underneath kevlar type jeans has got me through 0 degrees temperature, and then with no layers, completely comfortable for summer commuting too.
So I literally have one expensive ish jacket for all seasons (albeit with a £60 waterproof one to wear on top when it does rain) and as others have said Decathlon would be perfect to get the necessary additional layers very cheaply.
I was a newbie looking for winter kit in February. I happened to mention I cycled, and he said to use those base layers and get a different jacket that could would work in the summer instead.
So I ended up getting a summer vented/textile jacket that had a detachable windproof layer.
Wearing this with a merino wool base layer, and cycling trousers underneath kevlar type jeans has got me through 0 degrees temperature, and then with no layers, completely comfortable for summer commuting too.
So I literally have one expensive ish jacket for all seasons (albeit with a £60 waterproof one to wear on top when it does rain) and as others have said Decathlon would be perfect to get the necessary additional layers very cheaply.
These things are a thousand times better than Laserlights/Replacables and i'll buy another pair in a heartbeat if i lose them.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Alpine-MotoSafe-Race-Plug...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Alpine-MotoSafe-Race-Plug...
black-k1 said:
Somebody had to! 
I'm so funny. Stupid maybe, but I have never worn ear plugs, even when filming heavy rock bands on stage at Reading and Glastonbury. Right by the drums you'd find me with one ear of my cans off as I couldn't stand hearing the delayed sound pumped from the outside broadcast truck.
Also couldn't get on with my very expensive custom made in-ear monitors.
Needed to hear the actual sound to help with the timing of my shots.
Perfectionist I know
So at nearly 57 I guess I'm lucky that I'm still blessed with good hearing especially as I've ridden since I was 17.
Edited by croyde on Thursday 22 August 13:24
Pothole said:
ALWAYS WEAR EARPLUGS!
https://sites.google.com/site/earplugsbypost/yes i know the sites either looks dodgy as hell, or as if it was designed in the 1990's but they are very good for ear plugs.
you can either buy the ones you want in bulk, or get a selection pack so you can try out different ones
SWAY - I passed my test last year and went to the Honda dealers with the intention of getting the 500X. Like you mentioned I have a very short inside leg and when i got on the bike I was on tip toes. They then said they had another bike in that had the same engine but had a much lower seat height which was called the Rebel. At that time they still hadn't fitted the seat and a number of other components as it had literally just been delivered to them. They fitted the seat and having sat on it in the showroom I ended up buying the bike. A bit daft really as i hadn't actually ridden on it. I can say that I love the bike and think it makes a great first bike as its easy to control and enough power for a beginner. I have added a screen and panniers to mine and the screen certainly does make a difference.
alant said:
SWAY - I passed my test last year and went to the Honda dealers with the intention of getting the 500X. Like you mentioned I have a very short inside leg and when i got on the bike I was on tip toes. They then said they had another bike in that had the same engine but had a much lower seat height which was called the Rebel. At that time they still hadn't fitted the seat and a number of other components as it had literally just been delivered to them. They fitted the seat and having sat on it in the showroom I ended up buying the bike. A bit daft really as i hadn't actually ridden on it. I can say that I love the bike and think it makes a great first bike as its easy to control and enough power for a beginner. I have added a screen and panniers to mine and the screen certainly does make a difference.
Cheers. I've looked at the Rebel - my concern is I really want a bobber. But a "proper" bobber I can customise, which is lacking with the Rebel... Just stopped at P&H with riding kit on, and the 500X (and Nc750x) both felt fine.
"Completed" CBT. Had a bit of a mare when doing the on road manouvers - pain in my forehead, sweat dripping in my eyes. Misheard the instructor (Dan and Sam both sound the same!) - and I think instructor thought I was dicking about. Then five attempts at the e stop before he was happy - and a stern talking to once we returned to base.
Ah well, I'll do another 90 minute lesson before 4 day DAS...
SWAY - If you search Rebel Forum there is an owners site, based in America, and you will se that there is loads you can do to the Rebel, probably a lot more than you realise. Also there are a links to a number of reviews comparing it with the Vulcan S and HD 883 Iron and surprisingly it matches them really well. However, I do like the NC750 and have thought about one myself.
At the end of the day I wouldn't recommend my route of just buying one, and would actually test ride the bikes first if you can.
At the end of the day I wouldn't recommend my route of just buying one, and would actually test ride the bikes first if you can.
Definitely get a decent helmet. I'm personally a fan of japanese bikes, I got a Honda NC750x purely for the frunk (storage) which I find very useful, but any of the other Hondas mentioned will do the job perfectly well. I used to commute on a naked bike and didn't have much of an issue with it.
I've found it hard to get gloves that work, having splashed out twice on gore tex rukkas that have leaked horrendously (still looking for something better...)
I wear an Oxford Laminated (Advanced) jacket. Has most of the advantages of gore tex pro without the price tag. Cost £250 and comes with a 3 year warranty. I'm very happy with it and it served me well over winter and is very breathable in the summer. It's my current only jacket for year round. I do 40-50 miles per day from Surrey to central London. Only issue with it so far is some stitching has come away from one of the velcro tabs. My old alpinestars jacket failed completely and I got a full refund on it as they couldn't repair it.
I think security is important, I've just moved office and was a bit annoyed I've lost the ability to chain up the bike. If you can, get a good chain and secure the bike to an immovable object.
I think earplugs will depend on the commute you have, how loud your bike is and how good your helmet is. My bike is pretty quiet, I don't travel on motorways and have a good helmet so I've never felt the need for earplugs as I think I just wouldn't hear anything at all.
I've found it hard to get gloves that work, having splashed out twice on gore tex rukkas that have leaked horrendously (still looking for something better...)
I wear an Oxford Laminated (Advanced) jacket. Has most of the advantages of gore tex pro without the price tag. Cost £250 and comes with a 3 year warranty. I'm very happy with it and it served me well over winter and is very breathable in the summer. It's my current only jacket for year round. I do 40-50 miles per day from Surrey to central London. Only issue with it so far is some stitching has come away from one of the velcro tabs. My old alpinestars jacket failed completely and I got a full refund on it as they couldn't repair it.
I think security is important, I've just moved office and was a bit annoyed I've lost the ability to chain up the bike. If you can, get a good chain and secure the bike to an immovable object.
I think earplugs will depend on the commute you have, how loud your bike is and how good your helmet is. My bike is pretty quiet, I don't travel on motorways and have a good helmet so I've never felt the need for earplugs as I think I just wouldn't hear anything at all.
Some really good advice here. I will try to add a little from my experience of doing 100 miles a day for 11 years. I often went to different offices each day - this becomes easier if you can store stuff at one place of work.
What do you need to carry with you? I took a laptop and bag of suit/shirt/de-oderant/etc every day with me - panniers made a vast difference.
Any bike - 125 and up - could do this sort of work for 75% of the year. The heated gear/grips/screen etc really help for the heavy downpours and bitter cold which really is only 25% of the time.
Tank range - consider it important. If you are doing 100 miles a day on a bike that can realistically do 150 miles, you are stopping for fuel every other day. Finding a range >= 2 days commuting is a real bonus.
If you do want a bike to keep you warm and dry all year round - big fairing/screens on tourers are great. Gerbing heated jacket and gloves were magnificent in the winter.
When you do lots of miles on a bike, it feels like they need servicing and tyres every other week. Learn to DIY service if you cannot already - frequent dealer stamps are expensive, hassle, and won’t particularly retain value in the bike eroded by miles and winters.
My best commuter was a Kawasaki 1400gtr. Like most bikes these days, eminently reliable but the finish was poor after a couple of winters.
Do you need to commute into a city with lots of traffic? Even big, panniered tourers do this well - only when you get down to narrow 125s with great steering locks do you get significantly better at filtering.
Commuting is dull in the main, even on a bike. Ultimate Ear moulded earplugs with speakers for music help hugely.
Finally, you know that motor home cliche - the best motorhome you buy is the second one? I think it applies here too. I would advise using something/anything cheap for a few months and see what works. Then buy the perfect bike.
Martin.
What do you need to carry with you? I took a laptop and bag of suit/shirt/de-oderant/etc every day with me - panniers made a vast difference.
Any bike - 125 and up - could do this sort of work for 75% of the year. The heated gear/grips/screen etc really help for the heavy downpours and bitter cold which really is only 25% of the time.
Tank range - consider it important. If you are doing 100 miles a day on a bike that can realistically do 150 miles, you are stopping for fuel every other day. Finding a range >= 2 days commuting is a real bonus.
If you do want a bike to keep you warm and dry all year round - big fairing/screens on tourers are great. Gerbing heated jacket and gloves were magnificent in the winter.
When you do lots of miles on a bike, it feels like they need servicing and tyres every other week. Learn to DIY service if you cannot already - frequent dealer stamps are expensive, hassle, and won’t particularly retain value in the bike eroded by miles and winters.
My best commuter was a Kawasaki 1400gtr. Like most bikes these days, eminently reliable but the finish was poor after a couple of winters.
Do you need to commute into a city with lots of traffic? Even big, panniered tourers do this well - only when you get down to narrow 125s with great steering locks do you get significantly better at filtering.
Commuting is dull in the main, even on a bike. Ultimate Ear moulded earplugs with speakers for music help hugely.
Finally, you know that motor home cliche - the best motorhome you buy is the second one? I think it applies here too. I would advise using something/anything cheap for a few months and see what works. Then buy the perfect bike.
Martin.
Cheers Martin.
Martin30 said:
Some really good advice here. I will try to add a little from my experience of doing 100 miles a day for 11 years. I often went to different offices each day - this becomes easier if you can store stuff at one place of work.
What do you need to carry with you? I took a laptop and bag of suit/shirt/de-oderant/etc every day with me - panniers made a vast difference. small laptop, shirt, trousers. Shoes I can leave at each office, along with washkit. Would likely travel to "main" office once a fortnight by car to top up/swap out a stack of shirts/etc. Big locker, great showers.
Any bike - 125 and up - could do this sort of work for 75% of the year. The heated gear/grips/screen etc really help for the heavy downpours and bitter cold which really is only 25% of the time. No way would I be on the 125 I rode yesterday! It'd be buzzing it's tits off the whole way!
Tank range - consider it important. If you are doing 100 miles a day on a bike that can realistically do 150 miles, you are stopping for fuel every other day. Finding a range >= 2 days commuting is a real bonus. See your point - I was filling every other day already (every 4 trips). That will likely become every 3 trips - however shorter fill up each time, and petrol station within two minutes of both home and both offices.
If you do want a bike to keep you warm and dry all year round - big fairing/screens on tourers are great. Gerbing heated jacket and gloves were magnificent in the winter. Definitely getting heated gear!
When you do lots of miles on a bike, it feels like they need servicing and tyres every other week. Learn to DIY service if you cannot already - frequent dealer stamps are expensive, hassle, and won’t particularly retain value in the bike eroded by miles and winters. Understood - was pretty much of this mindset already with the car.
My best commuter was a Kawasaki 1400gtr. Like most bikes these days, eminently reliable but the finish was poor after a couple of winters.
Do you need to commute into a city with lots of traffic? Even big, panniered tourers do this well - only when you get down to narrow 125s with great steering locks do you get significantly better at filtering. Nope, all "extra urban". Only filtering would be either on the dual carriageways running into Crawley, or M27 to Southampton. No one seems to struggle filtering from what I can see! Not sure I'm feeling ready for a big tourer...
Commuting is dull in the main, even on a bike. Ultimate Ear moulded earplugs with speakers for music help hugely. Excellent - will look those up. Love an audio book on current commute...
Finally, you know that motor home cliche - the best motorhome you buy is the second one? I think it applies here too. I would advise using something/anything cheap for a few months and see what works. Then buy the perfect bike. Sounds good to me! Already let the better half know that the space we've cleared in the garage would allow me to have four bikes...
Martin.
What do you need to carry with you? I took a laptop and bag of suit/shirt/de-oderant/etc every day with me - panniers made a vast difference. small laptop, shirt, trousers. Shoes I can leave at each office, along with washkit. Would likely travel to "main" office once a fortnight by car to top up/swap out a stack of shirts/etc. Big locker, great showers.
Any bike - 125 and up - could do this sort of work for 75% of the year. The heated gear/grips/screen etc really help for the heavy downpours and bitter cold which really is only 25% of the time. No way would I be on the 125 I rode yesterday! It'd be buzzing it's tits off the whole way!
Tank range - consider it important. If you are doing 100 miles a day on a bike that can realistically do 150 miles, you are stopping for fuel every other day. Finding a range >= 2 days commuting is a real bonus. See your point - I was filling every other day already (every 4 trips). That will likely become every 3 trips - however shorter fill up each time, and petrol station within two minutes of both home and both offices.
If you do want a bike to keep you warm and dry all year round - big fairing/screens on tourers are great. Gerbing heated jacket and gloves were magnificent in the winter. Definitely getting heated gear!
When you do lots of miles on a bike, it feels like they need servicing and tyres every other week. Learn to DIY service if you cannot already - frequent dealer stamps are expensive, hassle, and won’t particularly retain value in the bike eroded by miles and winters. Understood - was pretty much of this mindset already with the car.
My best commuter was a Kawasaki 1400gtr. Like most bikes these days, eminently reliable but the finish was poor after a couple of winters.
Do you need to commute into a city with lots of traffic? Even big, panniered tourers do this well - only when you get down to narrow 125s with great steering locks do you get significantly better at filtering. Nope, all "extra urban". Only filtering would be either on the dual carriageways running into Crawley, or M27 to Southampton. No one seems to struggle filtering from what I can see! Not sure I'm feeling ready for a big tourer...
Commuting is dull in the main, even on a bike. Ultimate Ear moulded earplugs with speakers for music help hugely. Excellent - will look those up. Love an audio book on current commute...
Finally, you know that motor home cliche - the best motorhome you buy is the second one? I think it applies here too. I would advise using something/anything cheap for a few months and see what works. Then buy the perfect bike. Sounds good to me! Already let the better half know that the space we've cleared in the garage would allow me to have four bikes...
Martin.
One thing I ALWAYS do when I've ridden on salty, winter roads is get a watering can of hot water from the kitchen tap and rinse off my brakes, front and rear. It'll take you a few minutes but pays dividends in time not spent rebuilding your brakes 3 times a winter.
(hot water because it's better at dissolving the salt off your calipers, pistons, etc)
(hot water because it's better at dissolving the salt off your calipers, pistons, etc)
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