Oil Change - Terminal Clutch Slip Within 30 Mins
Discussion
Ok, some more questions from me to gain absolute clarification on my end, because I do actually want to help.
Firstly: What bike is it? (Manufacturer and model)
Before the oil change, the clutch was working perfectly - no slip, no other issues, correct?
What specification of oil were you using previously? (Grade, viscosity, manufacturer etc)
When you change the oil, what procedure did you follow?
What oil did you use in this most recent oil change (grae, viscosity, manufacturer etc)
What other work was performed during this service period?
Did the clutch immediatly start slipping, or did it come on gradually?
What were the specifications of the inspected clutch items (thickness of friction plates, steel plats, other clutch components) and how did that compare with the manufacturers reported service limits?
Something has happened, I still dont suspect it is the oil as a clutch usually doesnt slip immediatly unless there is another issue. Like I've said, I've switched between semi and fully synthetic, have known plenty of other people to do the same and have never encountered problems unless thre has been an underlying clutch issue.
Firstly: What bike is it? (Manufacturer and model)
Before the oil change, the clutch was working perfectly - no slip, no other issues, correct?
What specification of oil were you using previously? (Grade, viscosity, manufacturer etc)
When you change the oil, what procedure did you follow?
What oil did you use in this most recent oil change (grae, viscosity, manufacturer etc)
What other work was performed during this service period?
Did the clutch immediatly start slipping, or did it come on gradually?
What were the specifications of the inspected clutch items (thickness of friction plates, steel plats, other clutch components) and how did that compare with the manufacturers reported service limits?
Something has happened, I still dont suspect it is the oil as a clutch usually doesnt slip immediatly unless there is another issue. Like I've said, I've switched between semi and fully synthetic, have known plenty of other people to do the same and have never encountered problems unless thre has been an underlying clutch issue.
Benni said:
If the bike has a wet clutch, I would only use mineral oil, not semi-synthetic or full synthetic,
as synthetic oils lead to clutch slip.
What a load of rubbish. Used fully or semi synthetic in all my bikes. Only ever had one problem and that was an EBC clutch. Junked that and put a genuine one and it was perfect. as synthetic oils lead to clutch slip.
I dont know anything about bike clutches, However, I can guarantee that if you try and argue that using a product once thats meant for your bike has caused the issue, and not the numerous occasions you have used a product specifically not designed for your bike, your on to a loser.
Its like arguing that youve been running your diesel car on veg oil for the past few years when it says you specifically shouldnt, and then the day you put diesel in your engine stops, that its the diesel thats caused the issue.
Its like arguing that youve been running your diesel car on veg oil for the past few years when it says you specifically shouldnt, and then the day you put diesel in your engine stops, that its the diesel thats caused the issue.
The synthetic oil 'is too slippy', or 'causes oil seals to leak' has been raging on since time began (almost).
It isn't, and it doesn't. Bike manufacturers spec synthetic oil with wet clutches, but the important thing is that there aren't the friction modifiers present in oils designed for car engines (which, by in large, do not have clutches bathed in oil). I've just put Motul ester fully synth (the nice smelling pink stuff) in my XSR900, and guess what, the clutch doesn't slip. Because it's a JASO MA2 spec oil.
OP: Why did you change the oil you used if the car oil was working so perfectly?
It isn't, and it doesn't. Bike manufacturers spec synthetic oil with wet clutches, but the important thing is that there aren't the friction modifiers present in oils designed for car engines (which, by in large, do not have clutches bathed in oil). I've just put Motul ester fully synth (the nice smelling pink stuff) in my XSR900, and guess what, the clutch doesn't slip. Because it's a JASO MA2 spec oil.
OP: Why did you change the oil you used if the car oil was working so perfectly?
V8RX7 said:
I changed the oil in my bike with one that I couldn't find a bad review of.
It was the correct grade and for bikes and stated it was compatible with all wet clutches
why did you choose oil from a smaller manufacturer and not the proven stuff from proven manufacturer, out of curiosity?It was the correct grade and for bikes and stated it was compatible with all wet clutches
LimSlip said:
Why the huge reluctance to mention the specific oil that was used?
It is enough he took the risk, for whatever reason, with unknown oil, do you want him to take the risk of potentially being accused by oil manufacturer for spreading false information?You do not need to know what manufacturer it was, because you will be buying the proven stuff from proven companies that Steve Bass mentioned right in the beginning.
Edited by Ho Lee Kau on Tuesday 30th June 08:42
Ho Lee Kau said:
why did you choose oil from a smaller manufacturer and not the proven stuff from proven manufacturer, out of curiosity?
Probably because it was cheap.Ho Lee Kau said:
It is enough he took the risk, for whatever reason, with unknown oil, do you want him to take the risk of potentially being accused for spreading false information by oil manufacturer?
No naming and shaming is allowed on PH.As for using car oil in a bike muppetry at its finest
Jazoli said:
Ho Lee Kau said:
why did you choose oil from a smaller manufacturer and not the proven stuff from proven manufacturer, out of curiosity?
Probably because it was cheap.Ho Lee Kau said:
It is enough he took the risk, for whatever reason, with unknown oil, do you want him to take the risk of potentially being accused for spreading false information by oil manufacturer?
No naming and shaming is allowed on PH.As for using car oil in a bike muppetry at its finest
@2: I did not go through whole thread. What? It was a car oil, really?
Edited by Ho Lee Kau on Tuesday 30th June 08:44
Is this engine oil or gearbox oil? Looking at your profile it looks like a KTM 4T?
I've used different oils before on my 2T dirt bike, which have caused clutch slip immediately a couple of times. I've just drained and put a different oil in and its cured the problem. It can be quite confusing with oils, especially with a wet clutch. I think its well worth speaking to the oil manufacture for advice, especially on what oil they would recommend, but I can't see you getting and money off them. The fact you're using the bike off road could be enough for them to say its not in there design use. A clutch gets a lot of abuse in off road use.
Of course just stating the oil and bike, could be enough for someone to work out maybe its the wrong oil.
I've used different oils before on my 2T dirt bike, which have caused clutch slip immediately a couple of times. I've just drained and put a different oil in and its cured the problem. It can be quite confusing with oils, especially with a wet clutch. I think its well worth speaking to the oil manufacture for advice, especially on what oil they would recommend, but I can't see you getting and money off them. The fact you're using the bike off road could be enough for them to say its not in there design use. A clutch gets a lot of abuse in off road use.
Of course just stating the oil and bike, could be enough for someone to work out maybe its the wrong oil.
Ho Lee Kau said:
@1: I did not want to say it, did not want to sound rude. There is a saying translated literally: "He who is stingy pays twice.", the English version would be I guess "you get what you pay for", though it may not really apply in this particular case for other reasons.
@2: I did not go through whole thread. What? It was a car oil, really?
@2: I did not go through whole thread. What? It was a car oil, really?
V8RX7 said:
Yes and for two years I've been using car oil !
V8RX7 said:
I do all my own work - always have, I've been using a cheap semi oil in my bikes without any issue for years
Not any more!V8RX7 said:
it only takes 1.2L
And considering 5L of top spec bike oil is only £50 or so the 1.2L of oil needed is about 12 quid, how much of a saving must he have made using car oil ? As the OP has found out oil is cheap, clutches aren't!
Edited by Jazoli on Tuesday 30th June 14:21
Jazoli said:
And considering 5L of top spec bike oil is only £50 or so the 1.2L of oil needed is about £12 quid, how much of a saving must he have made using car oil ?
As the OP has found out oil is cheap, clutches aren't!
Compounded by the fact the OP admits to changing the oil every 2 hours!! Seriously?? As the OP has found out oil is cheap, clutches aren't!
manual recommends 10 hours for a hard run engine..
So use good quality oil every 5 to 10 hours (OP states not hard run) and it's even cheaper....
The logic of this defies ... erm.. logic
Although the OP inferred that it was the fault of the oil, the reason for posting the name/spec of oil would be to confirm if it is in fact suitable for the application, surely there is no issue with that?
Also to be fair to him, he did say he changed it every 200-300 miles rather than every 2 hours.
Also to be fair to him, he did say he changed it every 200-300 miles rather than every 2 hours.
LimSlip said:
Jazoli said:
No naming and shaming is allowed on PH.
Hypothetically if I said my parents Ford CMax has been an unreliable and generally crap car, am I likely to be banned by the mods?It's squarely down to the OP for using the incorrect oils throughout the service life of the bike..
So there's no naming and shaming issue here.
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