Big hole in aluminium oil drain plug

Big hole in aluminium oil drain plug

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Discussion

Pope

2,636 posts

247 months

Thursday 8th April 2021
quotequote all
I have this issue all the time; aluminium plugs work well the first time but any more and they round (especially the allen key variety). The load bearing flat area above the washer will be the issue - very rarely is the thread tight.

Use a hole cutter that matches the size of the washer - one with a drill to centre it is best until the cutter has begun to cut (then move the cutter down lower so the drill doesn't go through the bung) if you go careful there'll be no damage as the washer is between the bung and the casing protecting it. As soon as the load bearing portion is gone the bung will wind out by hand.

ReverendCounter

Original Poster:

6,087 posts

176 months

Thursday 8th April 2021
quotequote all
KTMsm said:
Drill the hole until you're into the thicker alloy

Then find a suitable size torx and drill the hole slightly smaller than the torx, hammer the torx in
The hole that’s there due to the hex shape ripping out is pretty big. Due to the effort I put into trying to undo the plug, I’m not sure if a torx will just grind the remaining metal away.

trickywoo said:
Irwin style bolt extractor, if it will fit over the big bit and between the raised flange bit.
The big bit got ripped off, there’s just a hole in the plug now.

ReverendCounter

Original Poster:

6,087 posts

176 months

Thursday 8th April 2021
quotequote all
Pope said:
Use a hole cutter that matches the size of the washer - one with a drill to centre it is best
Thing is, there's nothing for the centre drill to cut into, to act as a central guide - the hex part has torn out leaving a finger diameter hole.

ReverendCounter

Original Poster:

6,087 posts

176 months

Thursday 8th April 2021
quotequote all
Steve Bass said:
tvrolet said:
Plan A, drill 2 holes either side and make up a bar with to 'pins' in it (like the sort of thing you'd undo a grinder disk with), put pins in holes and use bar to undo the plug.

Plan B, drill 2 holes either side and tap them; put to holes in a bar and bolt the bar to the plug then undo.
^^^^ This.

Drill & tap the flat bar with decent sized bolts (M6/8) into it, drill corresponding holes in the plug, insert and turn.
But definitely apply heat to the plug in the first instance and a bit of judicious tapping...

God luck
I agree on this approach. I think I'll be able to get more torque on it with two decent sized holes/bolts and a bar. And heat. And some plusgas over a day or two (perhaps a sacrificial offering to the god of corrosion).

stang65

357 posts

137 months

Thursday 8th April 2021
quotequote all
ReverendCounter said:
Thing is, there's nothing for the centre drill to cut into, to act as a central guide - the hex part has torn out leaving a finger diameter hole.
If there's a finger sized hole I'd try to cover the back of the plug with some thick grease if you're drilling it. It might just catch any swarf that gets through....

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Original Poster:

6,087 posts

176 months

Thursday 8th April 2021
quotequote all
stang65 said:
If there's a finger sized hole I'd try to cover the back of the plug with some thick grease if you're drilling it. It might just catch any swarf that gets through....
Excellent suggestion, thanks

Krikkit

26,514 posts

181 months

Thursday 8th April 2021
quotequote all
Sounds like a right ballache!

Definitely agree with making a couple of holes then winding it out, I have a small tool for the angle grinder which would make a great one.

ReverendCounter

Original Poster:

6,087 posts

176 months

Thursday 8th April 2021
quotequote all
Krikkit said:
Sounds like a right ballache!

Definitely agree with making a couple of holes then winding it out, I have a small tool for the angle grinder which would make a great one.
I'm imagining the same thing except three feet long or something.

Hungrymc

6,650 posts

137 months

Thursday 8th April 2021
quotequote all
I’ve shifted similar with heat cycles and then using a cold chisel to make a slot towards the outside which I could then use with a drift on.

ReverendCounter

Original Poster:

6,087 posts

176 months

Thursday 8th April 2021
quotequote all
I haven't tried any heat yet, that's hopefully the key

ReverendCounter

Original Poster:

6,087 posts

176 months

Thursday 15th April 2021
quotequote all


Just to update this, used a slightly different approach:

- drilled pilot holes as indicated, red
- enlarged the holes with a bigger bit, yellow
- removed about 1/3rd of the flange with a standard 1" sharp wood chisel I had to hand, green
- used a drift and a decent sized hammer to rotate + unscrew, cyan

Didn't need to use any heat but that could well have done the trick in the first place, as advised.

Didn't put grease on the threads/o-ring which probably led to the seizing.

Didn't put grease on the threads/o-ring this time round either due to the excitement.

What will I do differently next time? grease the threads/o-ring and not drill into the engine casing when I'm trying to un-seize it next oil change.

_Fayaz

185 posts

133 months

Thursday 15th April 2021
quotequote all
Had this issue a few years ago with the same bolt. An Irwin bolt extractor set saved the day eventually, they're definitely worth keeping around.

Iirc a replacement sump plug was something daft like 27 quid when I checked!

ReverendCounter

Original Poster:

6,087 posts

176 months

Thursday 15th April 2021
quotequote all
anonymous said:
[redacted]
There was much more to it than that (at least, that's what it felt like with watching YT vids on seized bolts, taking the engine out etc etc etc).

Everyone likes a pic though, don't they (esp. in pretty colours).

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Original Poster:

6,087 posts

176 months

Thursday 15th April 2021
quotequote all
Pope said:
I have this issue all the time ... The load bearing flat area above the washer will be the issue .. As soon as the load bearing portion is gone the bung will wind out by hand.
This is the key point for anyone else in the same situation.

ReverendCounter

Original Poster:

6,087 posts

176 months

Thursday 15th April 2021
quotequote all
_Fayaz said:
Had this issue a few years ago with the same bolt. An Irwin bolt extractor set saved the day eventually, they're definitely worth keeping around.

Iirc a replacement sump plug was something daft like 27 quid when I checked!
I nearly paid something similar but they're universal for the following (£8)

Oil Drain Plug 4HC-15351-00-00 For Yamaha Kodiak Wolverine Grizzly Rhino 450 4WD

"Fitment:
Fits for Yamaha models as following:
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For 2000 Yamaha ATV GRIZZLY HUNTING YFM600HM (5GT9)
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For 2001 Yamaha ATV GRIZZLY HUNTER EDITION YFM600FWAHN (5GTK)
For 2001 Yamaha ATV GRIZZLY YFM600FWAN (5GTE)
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ReverendCounter

Original Poster:

6,087 posts

176 months

Thursday 15th April 2021
quotequote all
anonymous said:
[redacted]
I actually thought you were!

Yes, it was eventually as simple as drilling, a bit of chiselling and drifting (the boring kind).

I think it all could have been avoided if I'd greased the threads and o-ring, maybe. I'm not going to say live and learn because I forgot to grease it this time round as well (in my defence I did say I was a cack-handed baboon at times).

ReverendCounter

Original Poster:

6,087 posts

176 months

Thursday 15th April 2021
quotequote all
anonymous said:
[redacted]
The pics don't show the silicon o-ring but there's a channel where it sits. The problem seems to be the two faces between the engine case and the face of the flange, once I got rid of about a third of the flenge it was possible to overcome the friction with the drift and hammer.

I haven't tightened the new plug as much this time, but as PHer Pope says above, he sees this a lot so it must be easy to overdo it.

Edited by ReverendCounter on Friday 16th April 10:52

Benni

3,512 posts

211 months

Friday 16th April 2021
quotequote all
I think the trick is to tighten this plug only to the point where the rubber O-ring is squished flat,
but the flange of the plug is not even touching the case.
Of course, it is almost natural instinct to overdo the tightness on this one
as no-one likes to slip & crash on their own spilled oil.
I seems that the aluminium surfaces of plug & case welded themselves chemically, or so,
by being pressed tightly together and 1000s of hot/cold cycles.
What torque does the manufacturer recommend, do you have a torque wrench ( or access to a workshop that has one ) ?

Jazzy Jag

3,420 posts

91 months

Friday 16th April 2021
quotequote all
Benni said:
What torque does the manufacturer recommend, do you have a torque wrench ( or access to a workshop that has one ) ?
This!! /\

Very much, this!!

Not tightening it up enough could have catastrophic consequences!

Find out what it should be torqued up to and do it to that!

Krikkit

26,514 posts

181 months

Friday 16th April 2021
quotequote all
Just torque it up properly and then make a point of cracking it loose once in a while... Takes 2 minutes, you wouldn't even have to undo it completely.