My first classic bike (70s BMW)

My first classic bike (70s BMW)

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Roboticarm

Original Poster:

1,450 posts

60 months

Monday 10th January 2022
quotequote all
Hi all
I've had my full bike license for 14 years but not ridden for 9 years.
I was expecting to inherit my Dad's classic bike (a 70s BMW) at some stage, hopefully many years from now, but he's decided to hand it to me early based on his health and me about to have a milestone birthday.
I have a number of questions which I'm hoping you can help with please, I am on the process of getting a new helmet, current one is 15 years old now and looking to book a "return to riding" session with a local riding school.

So, I've not owned a bike for a while and never owned a classics:
1) Any recommendations for insurance please, will be used for summer weekends only and garaged
2) in terms of storage I have a single garage which was built with my house in the 1970s, the previous owner fitted what I suspect is the cheapest up and over door they could find, it's not a great fit to there are drafts from all sides, should I look to fix the gaps, insulate the door etc or is a bit of a breeze actually a good thing?
3) would it be worth putting a cover over the bike (noting the storage solution in #2)?
4) the bike has both a centre and a kick stand, which is best ?
5) fuel, any recommendations for fuel additives please? Also should I run on e5 99 Ron or E10 95 Ron? Assume neither is ideal
6) anything else you'd recommend to a returning biker / first time classic bike owner please
7) Bike is mot and tax exempt, to keep it roadworthy is it still worth getting an MOT each year more as a check ?


Any info greatly received and sorry for all the questions

Blackpuddin

16,409 posts

204 months

Monday 10th January 2022
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If it's a flat twin I'd say definitely centre stand. Especially if there's a handle by the side panel to make getting it on there a bit easier.

black-k1

11,887 posts

228 months

Monday 10th January 2022
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Firstly, congratulations on getting the bike and birthday.

I posted some info recently https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&... in relation to BMW air head boxer twins which may or may not be of interest.

Parking it in a drafty garage is actually a pretty good thing, assuming it's dry. Having air flow around the bike is useful, as it'll remove moisture. I'd not put a bike cover on though an old sheet as a dust protector might be worth it.

The best thing for storing the bike is to use the main stand. Getting those old BMWs onto their main stand is easy if you know the technique but a real challenge if you don't. Move the stand to the position where it's resting on the floor then put your foot onto the bottom of the actual stand. Hold the handle on the frame in your right hand, stand up on the stand (all your weight) and pull the handle and the stand apart. Don't pull backwards and don't try to "lift the bike".

Once on the stand make sure the front wheel is well off the ground. The stands wear so that both wheels touch the ground when the bike is on the stand. this can lead to the bike being unstable and falling off the stand.

The side stands on many old BMWs are set up to automatically spring back if the weight comes off them. This is an absolute disaster if you accidently bump into the bike when it's parked as it monetarily lifts the weight off the stand, causing it to automatically retract, then the bike crashes unceremoniously to the floor.

I'm looking forward to seeing some pictures of the bike. Which model is it?



Edited by black-k1 on Monday 10th January 12:55

srob

11,563 posts

237 months

Monday 10th January 2022
quotequote all
Answers in bold smile

Roboticarm said:
Hi all
I've had my full bike license for 14 years but not ridden for 9 years.
I was expecting to inherit my Dad's classic bike (a 70s BMW) at some stage, hopefully many years from now, but he's decided to hand it to me early based on his health and me about to have a milestone birthday.
I have a number of questions which I'm hoping you can help with please, I am on the process of getting a new helmet, current one is 15 years old now and looking to book a "return to riding" session with a local riding school.

So, I've not owned a bike for a while and never owned a classics:
1) Any recommendations for insurance please, will be used for summer weekends only and garaged
I'm with Peter James insurance. I find them competetive price wise, but also sensible when you speak to them!
2) in terms of storage I have a single garage which was built with my house in the 1970s, the previous owner fitted what I suspect is the cheapest up and over door they could find, it's not a great fit to there are drafts from all sides, should I look to fix the gaps, insulate the door etc or is a bit of a breeze actually a good thing?
As Mr K1 mentions below, a breeze is a good thing. Stale and damp air is the killer. My garage door has a decent gap under it.
3) would it be worth putting a cover over the bike (noting the storage solution in #2)?
Only really if you want to keep dust or anything else off it. Or prying eyes when the garage door is open!
4) the bike has both a centre and a kick stand, which is best ?
BMWs do have a cranky side stand as mentioned below, so I'd stick it on the centre stand. Just make sure the ground is pretty level!
5) fuel, any recommendations for fuel additives please? Also should I run on e5 99 Ron or E10 95 Ron? Assume neither is ideal
We've got 20+ old bikes ranging from early 1920s to 1990s and do quite a few miles on some and very few on others. Never used any fuel addative in any of them. We always run everything on 'premium' unleaded though and try to not leave fuel in the bikes. A simple hand siphon and a jerry can is your friend.
6) anything else you'd recommend to a returning biker / first time classic bike owner please
Worth checking you have breakdown insurance, check how old the tyres are and enjoy it.
7) Bike is mot and tax exempt, to keep it roadworthy is it still worth getting an MOT each year more as a check ?
Up to you and how confident you feel in it. I don't know anyone that voluntarily gets their old bikes MoT'd though, so don't feel it's the norm.


Any info greatly received and sorry for all the questions

stang65

356 posts

136 months

Monday 10th January 2022
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Roboticarm said:
Answers in bold again.....

So, I've not owned a bike for a while and never owned a classics:
1) Any recommendations for insurance please, will be used for summer weekends only and garaged I'm with Peter James too, so would recommend them. I changed last renewal and it was painless and cheaper.
2) in terms of storage I have a single garage which was built with my house in the 1970s, the previous owner fitted what I suspect is the cheapest up and over door they could find, it's not a great fit to there are drafts from all sides, should I look to fix the gaps, insulate the door etc or is a bit of a breeze actually a good thing? Again, a draft is a good thing. Is there any ventilation at the rear though or just around the door? Might be worth adding a couple of air bricks?
3) would it be worth putting a cover over the bike (noting the storage solution in #2)? I do with mine to keep dust off and because my garage used to be visible from the road. I would only use a proper cover though and not a sheet or anything that could absorb moisture.
4) the bike has both a centre and a kick stand, which is best ? I leave my classic on its side stand, as then the drip tray can go under the gearbox and engine. Hopefully a '70s bike should leak, so mainstand is better if you have the room to use it.
5) fuel, any recommendations for fuel additives please? Also should I run on e5 99 Ron or E10 95 Ron? Assume neither is ideal I use a Castrol lead replacement additive. Not sure if it does anything or not to be honest but for the few miles I do it's cheap enough to add. When a had an MG Midget a while back it did seem to lessen some of the issues of fuel "going off" but maybe that was just because I use one with an octane booster?
6) anything else you'd recommend to a returning biker / first time classic bike owner please What are you doing with it? If you don't have reason to ride it then maybe join a local club or VMCC to give you rides to go on? There's no point having it and just letting it sit there.
7) Bike is mot and tax exempt, to keep it roadworthy is it still worth getting an MOT each year more as a check ? My classic bike was restored just before I got it so I don't bother. My classic car wasn't and the kids go in it so I do MOT that. Where does your risk profile sit as there's no right or wrong answer really (assuming you'll keep the bike roadworthy anyway).


Any info greatly received and sorry for all the questions

Pat H

8,056 posts

255 months

Monday 10th January 2022
quotequote all
Use the centre stand. The standard side stands are poor.

If someone hasn't already fitted a Surefoot side stand, then buy one.

Then you can take the original side stand off and place it in the recycling bin. Or, if your bike is pre 1981 and has ATE calipers, perhaps re-purpose the old stand as an anchor, to be thrown overboard when attempting to stop.

Your bike probably has Bing CV carbs.

I was lucky enough to inherit an R100. It hadn't been used for a long time. The main jets were blocked and the rubber diaphragms were perished. Once they had been replaced, the bike was good to go.

Lack of use also causes the crank main seal to dry out. It then starts leaking onto the clutch when the bike is used, causing clutch slip. It's not a small job.

Moto Bins or Moto Works are good for parts.

The Haynes manual for these bikes is pretty good.

Brook's Airhead Garage is a blog written by a friendly American chap who has rebuilt both 1970s and 1980s R100s. Lots of good clear advice and excellent photos to be found there. It can easily be found online.

There is also Snowbum's BMW Motorcycle Repair and Information Website, which will batter your head and make your eyes bleed, but is encyclopedic and worth dipping into periodically.

Roboticarm

Original Poster:

1,450 posts

60 months

Monday 10th January 2022
quotequote all
Thanks all, some great advice.
I'll start making some calls to the insurance companies above, buy a vent for the garage to help with airflow, probably easiest to cut one into the wooden side door. Buy a proper cover, make sure I use the centre stand and run it on 99 Ron.

The bike is a 1979 BMW r45

Based on the above I'll take it steady on the brakes

The bike has been regularly ran and warmed up so hopefully avoided any issues with blocked carbs etc.

Not yet agreed when it will arrive as we live 90 miles apart, but will post pics when it does


Edited by Roboticarm on Monday 10th January 19:39

Roboticarm

Original Poster:

1,450 posts

60 months

Monday 10th January 2022
quotequote all
This is a photo of a very similar one

srob

11,563 posts

237 months

Monday 10th January 2022
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Looks ace! I wouldn’t worry about cutting holes in doors to be honest. If there’s air moving around it’ll be absolutely fine thumbup

cwis

1,147 posts

178 months

Monday 10th January 2022
quotequote all
srob said:
Answers in bold smile

5) fuel, any recommendations for fuel additives please? Also should I run on e5 99 Ron or E10 95 Ron? Assume neither is ideal
We've got 20+ old bikes ranging from early 1920s to 1990s and do quite a few miles on some and very few on others. Never used any fuel addative in any of them. We always run everything on 'premium' unleaded though and try to not leave fuel in the bikes. A simple hand siphon and a jerry can is your friend.
Some wisdom above - a single data point though with a specific recommendation for a brand of premium fuel:

My old BMW is filled with Esso Synergy +, because in most places in the UK it's actually ethanol free:

https://www.esso.co.uk/en-gb/fuels/petrol

Other fuels seem to eat the fuel hose (I've had it 20 years and replaced all the hoses 3 or 4 times - ethanol?). Apparently ethanol free fuels also minimize fuel tank rust too.

I've left fuel in it over well a year occasionally due to being hugely lazy and fairly busy and it fires back up no worries. Sometimes a tank of fuel has lasted a couple of years use much to my shame.

Keep the battery charged though as you have to partially dismantle the bike to change them...

Pat H

8,056 posts

255 months

Tuesday 11th January 2022
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I like the R45/65.

I think they look sharper than the R80/100.

Is yours a UK supplied bike, or is it a grey import from Germany?

The UK bikes have a whopping 35bhp. A lot of the German ones were detuned to 27bhp for their learner market, with a softer cam, smaller valves and carbs.

Your R45 will probably have a single disk. If you get the upgrade bug, then adding a second disc from an R65 would be a worthwhile modification.

And if you ever get bored, there's a bolt on big bore kit that takes it up to 860cc. Fit one of those with heads from a post 1981 R65 and you can go out and intimidate Norton Commandos and T140 Bonnies.

I've always liked the smaller BMWs, in particular the R65LS, which is a strange factory cafe racer that looks like a very pissed Katana.





Roboticarm

Original Poster:

1,450 posts

60 months

Tuesday 11th January 2022
quotequote all
Thanks, the bike is UK spec which means I will have a massive 35 bhp, my last bike was 90bhp so be interesting the feel the difference.
It does have a single disc so an upgrade maybe a good shout. Only plan to begin with is the remove the luggage frame which I think impacts the look of the bike.

Been having a quick look at insurance, seems classic bike insurance is really cheap, coupled with no tax and no MOT this is looking like it might be low cost fun

Roboticarm

Original Poster:

1,450 posts

60 months

Friday 14th January 2022
quotequote all
Pat H said:
Use the centre stand. The standard side stands are poor.

If someone hasn't already fitted a Surefoot side stand, then buy one.

Then you can take the original side stand off and place it in the recycling bin. Or, if your bike is pre 1981 and has ATE calipers, perhaps re-purpose the old stand as an anchor, to be thrown overboard when attempting to stop.

Your bike probably has Bing CV carbs.

I was lucky enough to inherit an R100. It hadn't been used for a long time. The main jets were blocked and the rubber diaphragms were perished. Once they had been replaced, the bike was good to go.

Lack of use also causes the crank main seal to dry out. It then starts leaking onto the clutch when the bike is used, causing clutch slip. It's not a small job.

Moto Bins or Moto Works are good for parts.

The Haynes manual for these bikes is pretty good.

Brook's Airhead Garage is a blog written by a friendly American chap who has rebuilt both 1970s and 1980s R100s. Lots of good clear advice and excellent photos to be found there. It can easily be found online.

There is also Snowbum's BMW Motorcycle Repair and Information Website, which will batter your head and make your eyes bleed, but is encyclopedic and worth dipping into periodically.
Some good news is that the bike comes with some additional parts, including a sure foot stand (apparently added and then removed as and I quote "it looks like a big of scaffolding stuck to the bike") so I can re attach that, there is also all the parts needed to upgrade to dual front disc so I'll look into that. The side stand is missing at the moment so been relying on the centre stand.

The bike was actually originally purchased from motor works who aren't a million miles from me so will be my go to place for parts, I've also sound a small local place which specialises in classic bikes to handle any work I might need doing

The carbs were recently rebuilt so hopefully nothing to worry about there.

I've also found that as a pre 1981 I can legally use a pressed back and silver plate which I quote like the idea of

Edited by Roboticarm on Friday 14th January 11:03


Edited by Roboticarm on Friday 14th January 11:03

Roboticarm

Original Poster:

1,450 posts

60 months

Monday 25th April 2022
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So, the bike (need to give her a name really) arrived about a month ago, if anyone needs the name of a good motorbike transporter let me know, was very impressed with the service.
Since she arrived I've been getting use to the centre stand (anyone else find them really difficult to use?) But other than running to warm her up, changing the number plate and filling with fuel and lead replacement Ive not done much. I did go up and down the street but learned that my low speed skills need a brush up so booking some refresher lessons before I take her out properly.
Will be removing the frame for the panniers but otherwise have cancelled any plans to modify, seems an unrestored, in modified 79 model is pretty rare.
A few things I've noticed... The left exhaust and cylinder warm up much faster than the right, is that normal ? The clutch is a bit "grabby" the brakes aren't great, the brakes however will be a short term thing as I've got all the bits got a twin disc conversion.

A few pics from her in her new home






RockBurner

59 posts

66 months

Monday 25th April 2022
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Wow - that's in EXTREMELY good condition!

My father had an R65LS from new, until he couldn't ride it anymore and sold it about 10 years ago (ish)

Keep it CLEAN - especially the exhausts, they're incredibly hard to find replacements for (even 20 years ago they were hard to find).

Best of luck with it and I hope it gives you a lot of joy! It won't be fast, so when riding keep very alert and maintain good stopping distances at all times!

black-k1

11,887 posts

228 months

Monday 25th April 2022
quotequote all
thumbup

Congratulations on the bike. That looks great.

I did mention the technique for getting the bike on the main stand in my post above. If you are struggling then you’ve not got the right technique. Understanding that it’s the weight of your foot on the back of the stand that moves the bike onto the stand, not the strength on your shoulders/back is the key. Take a look at this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9P7kb-RnAog

If you plan on taking a pillion then I’d recommend leaving the pannier frames on. The bottom part of the pannier frame is great for pillions to put their heals on if they have the balls of their feet on the pillion pegs.

One thing to look out for is the base of the seat rusting where the hinges are. If there is any sign of rust then I’d recommend removing it and paining the seat base (Hammerite is good for this) as a priority.

Roboticarm

Original Poster:

1,450 posts

60 months

Monday 25th April 2022
quotequote all
Thanks guys, the pictures make it look better than it is but having said that's it's a few years older than me and in better condition than I am
It's defo not fast but I'm planning to use it mainly for Sunday morning runs out.
The twin disc conversion will hopefully help with the braking.

Thanks for the video, I've defo been doing it wrong with the centre stand, will practice based on the video this weekend, hopefully I'll get the hang of it.

Pat H

8,056 posts

255 months

Tuesday 26th April 2022
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Roboticarm said:
The twin disc conversion will hopefully help with the braking.
Try sticking some EBC HH pads in there before going to the trouble of a twin disc conversion. Sometimes they can make a remarkable difference.

Nice looking bike.



Roboticarm

Original Poster:

1,450 posts

60 months

Thursday 26th May 2022
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So I've been enjoying owning the bike, not used it much as yet but been cleaning it, regular start ups and move arounds.
However yesterday it would start up, put partial choke on and it started fine but cut out, restarted and I managed to keep it idling by holding the throttle open but as soon as I let the throttle off it stalls out.
Tried with and without choke but just won't hold an idle.
It does idle if I hold the throttle but won't once I let go
Any ideas what I should be looking for please?

black-k1

11,887 posts

228 months

Thursday 26th May 2022
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The first thing to establish is if both cylinders are firing when you’re keeping it going on the throttle. Run it for a few seconds then check if both exhaust pipes are hot at the top of the headers. (Careful – don’t burn yourself on them.)