johns tvr rebuild
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dont know where all these strange looking motors etc. have come from but hay ho been doing quite a bit more to the old girl both anti roll bars ready for paint brake components being overhauled plus body is now in primer it has been sanded off with 240 then after any minor dinks having been repaired the etch primer has been applied all over then two coats of high build primer which i will let cure over the weekend ready to nib off next week then final high build then wet and dry then the colour so just a few pics to see how its coming along
john
john
been at it again today, rear calipers rebuilt, front calipers sourced, and overhauled master cylinder came back today it has been bored out sleeved with a stainless bush then machined and honed to the original spec, all the anti roll bar components the prop shaft and lots of sundry parts all ready for paint tomorrow, the body has been knocked back detail filled and primed ready for colour will do the satin black inside the engine compartment tomorrow and wheel arches ready for colour monday.
john
john
Hi John,
Really interesting thread and fantastic work.
I am pretty inexperienced at painting and always keen to hear professional tips. Can you advise what "nib out" means and more detail on the types of paints you are using, e.g. sythetic, cellulose, acrylic etc and what you have found works and doesn't work.
Also, what do you do with the masking tape where it meets the painted areas. Do you remove it immediately after painting or do you leave it on for the duration of the job. I've had problems with it lifting the edge of the paint on removal. Is there a technique for removing it that prevents that ?
Many thanks.
Really interesting thread and fantastic work.
I am pretty inexperienced at painting and always keen to hear professional tips. Can you advise what "nib out" means and more detail on the types of paints you are using, e.g. sythetic, cellulose, acrylic etc and what you have found works and doesn't work.
Also, what do you do with the masking tape where it meets the painted areas. Do you remove it immediately after painting or do you leave it on for the duration of the job. I've had problems with it lifting the edge of the paint on removal. Is there a technique for removing it that prevents that ?
Many thanks.
Edited by taylormj4 on Friday 5th October 12:37
taylormj4 said:
Hi John,
Really interesting thread and fantastic work.
I am pretty inexperienced at painting and always keen to hear professional tips. Can you advise what "nib out" means and more detail on the types of paints you are using, e.g. sythetic, cellulose, acrylic etc and what you have found works and doesn't work.
Also, what do you do with the masking tape where it meets the painted areas. Do you remove it immediately after painting or do you leave it on for the duration of the job. I've had problems with it lifting the edge of the paint on removal. Is there a technique for removing it that prevents that ?
Many thanks.
+1Really interesting thread and fantastic work.
I am pretty inexperienced at painting and always keen to hear professional tips. Can you advise what "nib out" means and more detail on the types of paints you are using, e.g. sythetic, cellulose, acrylic etc and what you have found works and doesn't work.
Also, what do you do with the masking tape where it meets the painted areas. Do you remove it immediately after painting or do you leave it on for the duration of the job. I've had problems with it lifting the edge of the paint on removal. Is there a technique for removing it that prevents that ?
Many thanks.
Edited by taylormj4 on Friday 5th October 12:37
the term to nib off is just light sanding to take any little high spots or dust particles that may have landed in the primer prior to a further coat just stops them getting painted in,as for the masking tape lifting painted areas try to always use a good quality low tack tape such as 3m product, as for the paints i use a variety as over time you get to know what works, for high temperature paint i.e. block callipers etc. i use engine paint from witham oil, etch primer comes from them or movac, and is two part ,high build primer its again from movac as is the top coat all two part i.e. the colour and an activator /hardener, i like them because they are not quite so temperature sensative as the curing process is a chemical reaction, downside is pot time is limited so only mix what you can use.
john
john
Engineer1949 said:
the term to nib off is just light sanding to take any little high spots or dust particles that may have landed in the primer prior to a further coat just stops them getting painted in,as for the masking tape lifting painted areas try to always use a good quality low tack tape such as 3m product, as for the paints i use a variety as over time you get to know what works, for high temperature paint i.e. block callipers etc. i use engine paint from witham oil, etch primer comes from them or movac, and is two part ,high build primer its again from movac as is the top coat all two part i.e. the colour and an activator /hardener, i like them because they are not quite so temperature sensative as the curing process is a chemical reaction, downside is pot time is limited so only mix what you can use.
john
.john
+1 on this, I find that it is best to remove masking tape as soon as possible, and fold it back on itself as you pull it off at roughly 45 degree angle away from the painted surface, hope that makes sense to you.
had a good day again,got the intercooler fitted and brackets ready to fit after paint, all the brake callipers are rebuilt with new seals all cleaned ready for paint as are a number of sundry items anti roll bars, prop shaft, alternator guard and all the brackets for the anti roll bar bushes, we masked the car ready for the satin black, then etch primed all the parts, then satined the body, then glossed the parts, then a second coat of satin, sorry no pics of the satin camera battery died will take some tomorrow.
john
john
No problem with questions, the arches and other under body areas have been washed wire brushed and in the case of the arches sanded and filled especially on the mould joints which are bad from the factory then etch primed and i use mavac satin black two pack it is a dupont product and they will mix it to your spec anwhere from full mat to semi gloss.
P.s should be ready for next year.
John
P.s should be ready for next year.
John
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