johns tvr rebuild

johns tvr rebuild

Author
Discussion

chris2002hk

168 posts

161 months

Tuesday 25th September 2012
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Any V10. sticky on chrome badges for the back of my car or perhaps an extra couple of exhaust pipes to scare off the boy racers ? !

BliarOut

72,857 posts

238 months

Tuesday 25th September 2012
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Silicon Daz, go on, you know you want to biggrin

Laine2000

22 posts

148 months

Tuesday 25th September 2012
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V12 if your gonna do it

dhf

1,103 posts

193 months

Tuesday 25th September 2012
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chris2002hk said:
Any V10. sticky on chrome badges for the back of my car or perhaps an extra couple of exhaust pipes to scare off the boy racers ? !
TVR Powers Turbo conversion should do the job.....

Engineer1949

Original Poster:

1,423 posts

143 months

Friday 28th September 2012
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dont know where all these strange looking motors etc. have come from but hay ho been doing quite a bit more to the old girl both anti roll bars ready for paint brake components being overhauled plus body is now in primer it has been sanded off with 240 then after any minor dinks having been repaired the etch primer has been applied all over then two coats of high build primer which i will let cure over the weekend ready to nib off next week then final high build then wet and dry then the colour so just a few pics to see how its coming along


john


















edo

16,699 posts

264 months

Friday 28th September 2012
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Fabulous, cant wait to see the finished article.

Engineer1949

Original Poster:

1,423 posts

143 months

Thursday 4th October 2012
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been at it again today, rear calipers rebuilt, front calipers sourced, and overhauled master cylinder came back today it has been bored out sleeved with a stainless bush then machined and honed to the original spec, all the anti roll bar components the prop shaft and lots of sundry parts all ready for paint tomorrow, the body has been knocked back detail filled and primed ready for colour will do the satin black inside the engine compartment tomorrow and wheel arches ready for colour monday.


john

alphaone

1,019 posts

172 months

Thursday 4th October 2012
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Great job your doing there. Look forward to more updates & pics

taylormj4

1,563 posts

265 months

Friday 5th October 2012
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Hi John,
Really interesting thread and fantastic work.
I am pretty inexperienced at painting and always keen to hear professional tips. Can you advise what "nib out" means and more detail on the types of paints you are using, e.g. sythetic, cellulose, acrylic etc and what you have found works and doesn't work.

Also, what do you do with the masking tape where it meets the painted areas. Do you remove it immediately after painting or do you leave it on for the duration of the job. I've had problems with it lifting the edge of the paint on removal. Is there a technique for removing it that prevents that ?

Many thanks.

Edited by taylormj4 on Friday 5th October 12:37

debaron

866 posts

196 months

Friday 5th October 2012
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taylormj4 said:
Hi John,
Really interesting thread and fantastic work.
I am pretty inexperienced at painting and always keen to hear professional tips. Can you advise what "nib out" means and more detail on the types of paints you are using, e.g. sythetic, cellulose, acrylic etc and what you have found works and doesn't work.

Also, what do you do with the masking tape where it meets the painted areas. Do you remove it immediately after painting or do you leave it on for the duration of the job. I've had problems with it lifting the edge of the paint on removal. Is there a technique for removing it that prevents that ?

Many thanks.

Edited by taylormj4 on Friday 5th October 12:37
+1

Engineer1949

Original Poster:

1,423 posts

143 months

Friday 5th October 2012
quotequote all
the term to nib off is just light sanding to take any little high spots or dust particles that may have landed in the primer prior to a further coat just stops them getting painted in,as for the masking tape lifting painted areas try to always use a good quality low tack tape such as 3m product, as for the paints i use a variety as over time you get to know what works, for high temperature paint i.e. block callipers etc. i use engine paint from witham oil, etch primer comes from them or movac, and is two part ,high build primer its again from movac as is the top coat all two part i.e. the colour and an activator /hardener, i like them because they are not quite so temperature sensative as the curing process is a chemical reaction, downside is pot time is limited so only mix what you can use.

john

S2Mike

3,065 posts

149 months

Friday 5th October 2012
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Engineer1949 said:
the term to nib off is just light sanding to take any little high spots or dust particles that may have landed in the primer prior to a further coat just stops them getting painted in,as for the masking tape lifting painted areas try to always use a good quality low tack tape such as 3m product, as for the paints i use a variety as over time you get to know what works, for high temperature paint i.e. block callipers etc. i use engine paint from witham oil, etch primer comes from them or movac, and is two part ,high build primer its again from movac as is the top coat all two part i.e. the colour and an activator /hardener, i like them because they are not quite so temperature sensative as the curing process is a chemical reaction, downside is pot time is limited so only mix what you can use.

john
.
+1 on this, I find that it is best to remove masking tape as soon as possible, and fold it back on itself as you pull it off at roughly 45 degree angle away from the painted surface, hope that makes sense to you.

Engineer1949

Original Poster:

1,423 posts

143 months

Friday 5th October 2012
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had a good day again,got the intercooler fitted and brackets ready to fit after paint, all the brake callipers are rebuilt with new seals all cleaned ready for paint as are a number of sundry items anti roll bars, prop shaft, alternator guard and all the brackets for the anti roll bar bushes, we masked the car ready for the satin black, then etch primed all the parts, then satined the body, then glossed the parts, then a second coat of satin, sorry no pics of the satin camera battery died will take some tomorrow.


john





















slideways

4,101 posts

220 months

Friday 5th October 2012
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Is that mustard colour you've used bar coat?

Engineer1949

Original Poster:

1,423 posts

143 months

Friday 5th October 2012
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It is an etch primer realy adhears extreemly well


John

Engineer1949

Original Poster:

1,423 posts

143 months

Monday 8th October 2012
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another day at the office started wet and dry sanding the primer got all the components that where painted friday unmasked ready for reassembly later in the week, plus got some pics of the engine bay and the inner wheel arches in there satin black glory.

john






.

SILICONEKID340HP

14,997 posts

230 months

Monday 8th October 2012
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Looks good ,what type of paint are you useing in the engine bay and the floor pan ?

portzi

2,296 posts

174 months

Monday 8th October 2012
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What a fantastic looking rebuild, my hat comes off to you. Will it be ready for chastworth next year?

Mark

natben

2,743 posts

230 months

Monday 8th October 2012
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Sorry to ask as you hjave been asked many questions already but how did you do the wheel arches.

Rub them down 1st or just painted and what paint are you using.

I ask because I would like to do this also.

George

Engineer1949

Original Poster:

1,423 posts

143 months

Monday 8th October 2012
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No problem with questions, the arches and other under body areas have been washed wire brushed and in the case of the arches sanded and filled especially on the mould joints which are bad from the factory then etch primed and i use mavac satin black two pack it is a dupont product and they will mix it to your spec anwhere from full mat to semi gloss.
P.s should be ready for next year.

John