Water Running Temp and Fans...
Discussion
Bassfiend said:
Just popping the bottom hose off should get you pretty much a complete drain (there'll still be some remains in the heater matrix) and yes, you really do need to get the thermostat to open to get a decent flush.
Of course you could pop the thermostat out ...
Phil
Cheers PhilOf course you could pop the thermostat out ...
Phil
A job for Monday... any recommendations on coolant?
chris1972 said:
Cheers Phil
A job for Monday... any recommendations on coolant?
Not the cheapest, but the best type for mainly aluminium engines.It will not gunge up within the system.A job for Monday... any recommendations on coolant?
Best of all it has a 5 year life span.
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/...
Doesnt have to Halfrauds, just any advanced O.A.T [organic acid technology] antifreeze will do.
Google antifreeze for aluminium engines, its an interesting read.
My guess is that the sludge is the result of mixing different types of antifreeze. As a result, the corrosion-inhibiting additives have precipitated out. You need to drain and flush, for two reasons: obviously the sludge could block waterways in the cooling system and rad, but also there will be a lack of corrosion protection.
TJC46 said:
Best of all it has a 5 year life span.
Sadly - I've never managed to keep the coolant *IN* the system for long enough for that to matter ... Let me think ... when I first got the car she had a blocked rad so I replaced it with an all aluminium one, that one developed a leak (on a weld) after about 10 months (picked up on my first MOT as an advisory) and was advance replaced by the manufacturers, the replacement split (again, at a weld) about 5 months ago and was replaced with a *STANDARD* (recored) rad which (touches wood) seems to have been OK so far.
So that's - what - four radiators in three years?
TJC46 said:
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/...
Doesnt have to Halfrauds, just any advanced O.A.T [organic acid technology] antifreeze will do.
...if you know anyone with a Halfwits trade card then they're moderately competitive. Doesnt have to Halfrauds, just any advanced O.A.T [organic acid technology] antifreeze will do.
TJC46 said:
Google antifreeze for aluminium engines, its an interesting read.
Yup - as with most things which seem simple there's some interesting (and potentially confusing) background to it!I wouldn't just flush, you may end up forcing crud into nooks & crannies. Disassembling and cleaning / flushing separately as much as possible would seem more sensible IMHO.
Rather than immediately refilling I would also run several fill / drain cycles of clear water through the refitted system ~ with temp as high as you dare plus plenty of rpms so the water pump is really working ~ to clean the hidden areas out as well as possible.
It looks like someone has mixed G12 synth antifreeze and old green s
t - there will be jelly like deposits all over the place and very furry pipes etc. I have used audi long life blackcurrant juice & it's just coming up to the 10 year replacement I planned - still looks like new - I syphon it off when draining & reuse it to fill. Everything is peachy clean inside the pipes / castings, I used to filter it through paint filters to check for the first few years but don't bother now as it stays nice & clean. The stuff is expensive but as long as you have really flushed the system out is fool proof IMHO (and the water wetter combines fine ~ I'd still use it as it seems to make bleeding easier).
ETA: water obviously combines fine ~ water wetter is what I meant to type
Rather than immediately refilling I would also run several fill / drain cycles of clear water through the refitted system ~ with temp as high as you dare plus plenty of rpms so the water pump is really working ~ to clean the hidden areas out as well as possible.
It looks like someone has mixed G12 synth antifreeze and old green s
t - there will be jelly like deposits all over the place and very furry pipes etc. I have used audi long life blackcurrant juice & it's just coming up to the 10 year replacement I planned - still looks like new - I syphon it off when draining & reuse it to fill. Everything is peachy clean inside the pipes / castings, I used to filter it through paint filters to check for the first few years but don't bother now as it stays nice & clean. The stuff is expensive but as long as you have really flushed the system out is fool proof IMHO (and the water wetter combines fine ~ I'd still use it as it seems to make bleeding easier).ETA: water obviously combines fine ~ water wetter is what I meant to type
Edited by spend on Sunday 6th January 11:57
Somewhat vague I'm afraid as it's a long time since I swapped my thermostat out but IIRC the thermostat is covered by that housing where the top hose attaches to however I don't remember it as being particularly eventful removing it and fitting the replacement.
I may be doing mine again soon as I replaced the 82 degree thermostat with a 74 degree one and I just can't get any heat up in winter so might try swapping back to the 82 degree unit...
I may be doing mine again soon as I replaced the 82 degree thermostat with a 74 degree one and I just can't get any heat up in winter so might try swapping back to the 82 degree unit...
As spend says you need to strip and clean all the pipes, flush the block, rad and heater matrix if you can with hot water. Fill system with water and go for a run to get it good and hot. Drain and refill with distilled water (or rain water) and blue antifreeze. Change every three years. Don't use OAT in older engines some of the seals and gaskets may not be compatible. Don't use tap water to refill the metal ions can compromise the corrosion inhibitors.
nickb134 said:
As spend says you need to strip and clean all the pipes, flush the block, rad and heater matrix if you can with hot water. Fill system with water and go for a run to get it good and hot. Drain and refill with distilled water (or rain water) and blue antifreeze. Change every three years. Don't use OAT in older engines some of the seals and gaskets may not be compatible. Don't use tap water to refill the metal ions can compromise the corrosion inhibitors.
My OAT antifreeze has been in for just over 4 years now and no problems so far!TJC46 said:
My OAT antifreeze has been in for just over 4 years now and no problems so far!
I tried OAT antifreeze some years ago and swore I'd never use it again ... my engine overheated so badly I almost destroyed it!But on the upside - I did have plenty of nice hot porridge to eat whilst I was sat at the side of the road...
(Sorry - couldn't resist the obvious pun.)
See the difference between G12+ & G12, the blackcurrant juice will not form precipitates if mixed with other 'incompatible' additives. Which however hard you try it's nearly impossible to totally flush a used system completely...
I would always use G12+ as they are designed for aluminium engines, you can only see crap formed inside pipes & joints etc ~ the really important bits of the coolant passages in the block & heads are impossible to view totally, but I am convinced that modern (albeit expensive) antifreezes keep the internals pristine (and hence cool more efficiently).
It's nothing to do with using cheap glycol stuff & changing yearly, it still reacts with the metal inside the engine. Why have the hassle when you can spend a bit more and not have to replace for years ~ that's got to work out cheaper in the long run never mind the labour & parts required on top of the additive cost.
It still looks like the crud in the OP's tanks is the 'expensive' result of mixing incompatible antifreezes to me. Has any one got another feasible diagnosis or are you just hoping a quick swill & top up is going to fix the problem?
I would always use G12+ as they are designed for aluminium engines, you can only see crap formed inside pipes & joints etc ~ the really important bits of the coolant passages in the block & heads are impossible to view totally, but I am convinced that modern (albeit expensive) antifreezes keep the internals pristine (and hence cool more efficiently).
It's nothing to do with using cheap glycol stuff & changing yearly, it still reacts with the metal inside the engine. Why have the hassle when you can spend a bit more and not have to replace for years ~ that's got to work out cheaper in the long run never mind the labour & parts required on top of the additive cost.
It still looks like the crud in the OP's tanks is the 'expensive' result of mixing incompatible antifreezes to me. Has any one got another feasible diagnosis or are you just hoping a quick swill & top up is going to fix the problem?
chris1972 said:
Okay, I've checked the coolant and it isn't particularly low,has a green and sludgy scum in both tanks, so I think it's time for a drain, flush and new coolant. It is cold this morning, so I expect some of the sludge to solidify a little in the cold, but there seems to be quite a lot. I've prodded a bar into the main tank and there's plenty of blue coolant in there.
Main coolant tank:
Expansion tank:
Main coolant tank:
Expansion tank:
Follow the instructions to the letter.
In your case you may require two treatments.
For best results do the two treatments a couple of weeks apart.
We used to call this product "Snot Gone"
Works a treat
Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff