What did you do in the garage yesterday?

[jojackson4]

QBee said:

jojackson4 said:

phazed 11.83 said:

jojackson4 said:

Finished the C/V got it back on the ground and a test is on the cards

Going for a new job?

I wish
Anything to get out of this sparky st
C/V joints

Why have you got condom/Vaseline joints on your TVR?

You can skip in with no chafeing

[Classic Chim]

jojackson4 said:

You can skip in with no chafeing

So I'm likely to be knocked down the leaderboard come next month then. I'm trying straight through pipes and some 99 petrol so 12.4 on the cards

[jojackson4]

Classic Chim said:

jojackson4 said:

You can skip in with no chafeing

So I'm likely to be knocked down the leaderboard come next month then. I'm trying straight through pipes and some 99 petrol so 12.4 on the cards

10 7 in my head but I will not be there this time

[Classic Chim]

jojackson4 said:

10 7 in my head but I will not be there this time

I'm safe for now then

[FoxTVR430]

I have been preparing the body off for a few weeks now.
So after contacting the TVR club Belgium for some assistance, we arranged that we would come together the morning of the TVR continental meet.
(16 June 2017 @ Zolder race circuit in Belgium).
Thanks to all involved !

[phazed 11.83]

A couple of coats of Renovo blue roof colour on my faded hood.

I like these jobs,
Look for minimal work!



just got to put a couple of coats of the proof on the top and job's done.

[N7GTX]

phazed 11.83 said:

A couple of coats of Renovo blue roof colour on my faded hood.

I like these jobs,
Look for minimal work!



just got to put a couple of coats of the proof on the top and job's done.

Having just done mine, that stuff does make the material look like new again, doesn't it?
I made the basic stupid silly mistake of using Halfords cheapo masking tape - £1 a roll so should have known better - and when done, trying to get the masking tape off was a disaster. It stuck everywhere. Fortunately I have some Autoglym Intensive Tar Remover which shifted it instantly and easily with no adverse effects to the plastic screen or the bodywork.

[phazed 11.83]

I used a role of that 18 inch white sticky back plastic that we use on site for masking off windows.
Just unwind a few feet at a time, carefully stick around the base of the hood and it masks and covers an area about 18 inches wide as you go.

[phazed 11.83]

I used a role of that 18 inch white sticky back plastic that we use on site for masking off windows.
Just unwind a few feet at a time, carefully stick around the base of the hood and it masks and covers an area about 18 inches wide as you go.

[s p a c e m a n]

I just wipe it off with a babywipe as I go along, as long as you catch it within a few minutes it wipes straight off the paint/window

[N7GTX]

My least fave job again
Time to replace the exhaust manifold gaskets for the 3rd time in 3 years
First set were standard and lasted 5 minutes. Second set were the upgraded ones from Powers designed for boosted engines. They lasted 10 minutes.
So today started to fit another set of the upgraded ones. On the driveway. On axle stands. Driver's side done so other side tomorrow. Really, really looking forward to that

[BeastMaster]

N7GTX said:

My least fave job again
Time to replace the exhaust manifold gaskets for the 3rd time in 3 years
First set were standard and lasted 5 minutes. Second set were the upgraded ones from Powers designed for boosted engines. They lasted 10 minutes.
So today started to fit another set of the upgraded ones. On the driveway. On axle stands. Driver's side done so other side tomorrow. Really, really looking forward to that

Yep been in the same situation, not every year but enough times in 13 years ownership to have it down to around 5 hours.

The main problem seems to have been loosening bolts, which if not caught in time (and a pain to get access to just tighten) would destroy a gasket in a few hours of running in a loose state.

I decided to fit the ARP bolts with the smaller head for better access, but these came loose within a few weeks even using Nordik washers, so another gasket set ordered and replaced. The ARP bolts are a very hard material and decided that they would not crush onto the lock washer so decided to centre punch all around the flange of the bolt head so that it had something for the washer to lock onto - this seems to have done the trick, as after the first 1k miles checked tightness of the bolts and for the first time they were all good.

After the second time of this frustrating job I also slotted the bottom holes of the manifolds so the lower row of bolts could be fitted with the gaskets held in place, and then just lift the manifold into place, insert the top row of bolts and then tighten - saves a lot of time trying to get those bottom bolt inserted with so little space.

[N7GTX]

After the second set of gaskets, I used Nordlocks with a standard bolt as their website says that the material has to be softer than the washers. So when I removed the rear gasket I was expecting loose bolts but they were still very tight. The gasket had disintegrated. I use an extra long 14mm combi spanner to give plenty of leverage too.
The biggest problem now is that having undone one of the clamps to the Y piece there is a huge gap so will need to borrow a strap to pull the manifolds together. 'Y' piece almost £1,000 and manifolds £1,000 and they don't fit. Only us TVR people put up with this "quality"

[Loubaruch]

Iain,

I found it much easier to leave the manifold bolts quite loose, alignment of the Y piece was then OK. When the Y piece was secured, manifold bolts can then be tightened.

[N7GTX]

Loubaruch said:

Iain,

I found it much easier to leave the manifold bolts quite loose, alignment of the Y piece was then OK. When the Y piece was secured, manifold bolts can then be tightened.

I did wonder if maybe I should have tried your way. I undid the rear bolts first and replaced both rear gaskets quite easily as the Y piece was pulling the manifolds away at the rear. The fronts were just too tight so undid the clamps. I was worried that I might strip a bolt or the head when refitting.
I used the ratchet strap method last time and now everything is bolted down and refitted, might as well go with it

This is the gap:

[Richard 858]

Fitted these



They should stop the bugger!!

[FoxTVR430]

Richard 858 said:

Fitted these



They should stop the bugger!!

Nice and on a clean towel!!

[Matthew Poxon]

Yex 450 said:

I am going to get my Chimaera seats refurbished by Adrian at TVR Central at some point and plan to ask him about inserting a bit more cushioning around the thigh and shoulder area if that is possible just to keep originality in the car, but if the Tuscan seats are a good option I might go down that route. I have sat in some Cerbera seats put into a Chimaera a while back and they felt as if they were noticeably higher than the originals so have crossed them off the list unless they can be adjusted to sit as low as the standard Chimaera seats.

I agree with you on the Cerb seats being too high. Give mine a try next time I see you.....



More info here:
https://matthewpoxon.wordpress.com/2016/02/29/cerb...

[Tony91]

FoxTVR430 said:

Nice and on a clean towel!!

Another towel shot Thanks to N7GTX for the info
Jaguar X Type Calliper's
Focus ST170 grooved and dimpled Disks
Big Red ST220 Calliper rebuild kit seals pistons bleed valves.
Brembo pads
Total come's in at £145

[phazed 11.83]

Matthew Poxon said:

I agree with you on the Cerb seats being too high. Give mine a try next time I see you.....



More info here:
https://matthewpoxon.wordpress.com/2016/02/29/cerb...

Hi Mathew. I would really like to try your seats sometime.

Maybe we could meet up somewhere , or do you ever come over to the posh area?