What did you do in the garage yesterday?
Discussion
mk1fan said:
What did I do in the garage?
Nothing, the car is on the drive
Cracked on with some work on Wendy.
Passenger manifold off. New one trial fitted to check it, er, fits. All ok.
Trumpets shortened by 20mm and base sent off for cleaning up.
Plenum heater by passed.
Various redundant holes filled and captured nuts bonded in to hold various intake bits.
Passenger headlamp pod repaired.
TD inserts trimmed and fitted. Tailpipe ends trimmed and fitted.
Driver's side manifold unbolted but the starter motor won't budge. Left it with some penisatrating oil and will attack with breaker bar.
Prepped a few minor bits of trim for spraying and passivating.
You need a rest, how about a ladder Nothing, the car is on the drive
Cracked on with some work on Wendy.
Passenger manifold off. New one trial fitted to check it, er, fits. All ok.
Trumpets shortened by 20mm and base sent off for cleaning up.
Plenum heater by passed.
Various redundant holes filled and captured nuts bonded in to hold various intake bits.
Passenger headlamp pod repaired.
TD inserts trimmed and fitted. Tailpipe ends trimmed and fitted.
Driver's side manifold unbolted but the starter motor won't budge. Left it with some penisatrating oil and will attack with breaker bar.
Prepped a few minor bits of trim for spraying and passivating.
Tomorrow?CanoeSniffer said:
Got impatient. Sun was out. Went for a drive. Sealant not dry. Light popped out again.... 
WORTH IT
Took me 60 miles til I could find a petrol station though...
So Anthony, how about these headlights?
Bought a pair off Sapper to replace my corroded originals. WORTH IT
Took me 60 miles til I could find a petrol station though...
So Anthony, how about these headlights?
Need to grow a pair to risk taking it all to pieces.
With my luck I will damage my new "paint".
Job for a day when I have plenty of time and have read the fitting instructions
QBee said:
Bought a pair off Sapper to replace my corroded originals.
Need to grow a pair to risk taking it all to pieces.
With my luck I will damage my new "paint".
Job for a day when I have plenty of time and have read the fitting instructions
The reflector bowls you mean, going in through the lenses? The risk of damage shouldn't be too high if you're familiar with a Stanley knife, but be prepared for a lot of time getting rid of old sikaflex. I found I ended up using the knife to initially cut into the bead, then fingernails, persistence and swear words from then on. Once the lenses are out a scrub down with white spirit should get rid of any mastic residue that you can't peel off. Mine cleaned up really nicely this way! Oh and I'd check the little threaded eyelets on the sides of the new reflectors to make sure the adjuster screw threads into them nicely, a couple didn't on mine and I had to improvise- would've been a bNeed to grow a pair to risk taking it all to pieces.
With my luck I will damage my new "paint".
Job for a day when I have plenty of time and have read the fitting instructions
d to find out mid-job. (If you've got two sets then you could re-use your old ones, they just pull out of the rubber seats and can be pushed/persuaded back in).I'd also take some time the night before to check your adjuster screws aren't corroded. If they are then a soak in WD40 overnight might sort you out. Have fun doing it, heads up you might want a spare pair of hands getting the wingnuts back onto the adjuster screws, that bit is fiddly! Though you might be better off than me for access, being an older car I had to go through the grille. You'll get it done, just don't be scared of getting your hands covered in sikaflex!
phazed 11.83 said:
Made this little trinket in about half an hour to use at the weekend.
An old spark plug with centre knocked out, nut welded to the top and threaded bolt with ground rounded end screwed down the centre.
No prizes for guessing what this is for!
Think you will find it needs to be at least 15mm longer.An old spark plug with centre knocked out, nut welded to the top and threaded bolt with ground rounded end screwed down the centre.
No prizes for guessing what this is for!
An additional mod you can make to it is to drill a hole right through it or put a narrow slot down the side of the bolt. Then when you use it not only will you find TDC you will also know from the whistle if you are on the firing stroke.
Steve
CanoeSniffer said:
The reflector bowls you mean, going in through the lenses? The risk of damage shouldn't be too high if you're familiar with a Stanley knife, but be prepared for a lot of time getting rid of old sikaflex. I found I ended up using the knife to initially cut into the bead, then fingernails, persistence and swear words from then on. Once the lenses are out a scrub down with white spirit should get rid of any mastic residue that you can't peel off. Mine cleaned up really nicely this way! Oh and I'd check the little threaded eyelets on the sides of the new reflectors to make sure the adjuster screw threads into them nicely, a couple didn't on mine and I had to improvise- would've been a bd to find out mid-job. (If you've got two sets then you could re-use your old ones, they just pull out of the rubber seats and can be pushed/persuaded back in).
I'd also take some time the night before to check your adjuster screws aren't corroded. If they are then a soak in WD40 overnight might sort you out. Have fun doing it, heads up you might want a spare pair of hands getting the wingnuts back onto the adjuster screws, that bit is fiddly! Though you might be better off than me for access, being an older car I had to go through the grille. You'll get it done, just don't be scared of getting your hands covered in sikaflex!
I have bought complete units, but will get the cowls off first and see if they will match properlyd to find out mid-job. (If you've got two sets then you could re-use your old ones, they just pull out of the rubber seats and can be pushed/persuaded back in).I'd also take some time the night before to check your adjuster screws aren't corroded. If they are then a soak in WD40 overnight might sort you out. Have fun doing it, heads up you might want a spare pair of hands getting the wingnuts back onto the adjuster screws, that bit is fiddly! Though you might be better off than me for access, being an older car I had to go through the grille. You'll get it done, just don't be scared of getting your hands covered in sikaflex!
Steve_D said:
phazed 11.83 said:
Made this little trinket in about half an hour to use at the weekend.
An old spark plug with centre knocked out, nut welded to the top and threaded bolt with ground rounded end screwed down the centre.
No prizes for guessing what this is for!
Think you will find it needs to be at least 15mm longer.An old spark plug with centre knocked out, nut welded to the top and threaded bolt with ground rounded end screwed down the centre.
No prizes for guessing what this is for!
An additional mod you can make to it is to drill a hole right through it or put a narrow slot down the side of the bolt. Then when you use it not only will you find TDC you will also know from the whistle if you are on the firing stroke.
Steve
TV8 said:
Steve_D said:
phazed 11.83 said:
Made this little trinket in about half an hour to use at the weekend.
An old spark plug with centre knocked out, nut welded to the top and threaded bolt with ground rounded end screwed down the centre.
No prizes for guessing what this is for!
Think you will find it needs to be at least 15mm longer.An old spark plug with centre knocked out, nut welded to the top and threaded bolt with ground rounded end screwed down the centre.
No prizes for guessing what this is for!
An additional mod you can make to it is to drill a hole right through it or put a narrow slot down the side of the bolt. Then when you use it not only will you find TDC you will also know from the whistle if you are on the firing stroke.
Steve
- Screw into no.1 cylinder with the piston down.
- Gently wind crank clockwise until the piston comes to a stop against your stop tool. This will be close to TDC
- Mark the pulley where it aligns with the timing mark on the timing case.
- Wind anticlock all the way round until the piston again comes to a stop.
- Mark the pulley again.
- True TDC will be half way between the two marks you made on the pulley.
- You can now see if your measurements agree with the stamped in TDC mark on the pulley.
The Rover V8 has a harmonic damper on the front pulley. It functions by the fact it is in two parts bonded together with rubber. The rubber damps out vibration.
What can happen is the bond breaks down and the two parts rotate relative to each other and the stamped in TDC markings are no longer correct as I found on a customers car which seemed to run best with a timing of 34 degrees AFTER TDC.
Steve
Steve_D said:
It is a dead stop used for finding true Top Dead Centre (TDC)
The Rover V8 has a harmonic damper on the front pulley. It functions by the fact it is in two parts bonded together with rubber. The rubber damps out vibration.
What can happen is the bond breaks down and the two parts rotate relative to each other and the stamped in TDC markings are no longer correct as I found on a customers car which seemed to run best with a timing of 34 degrees AFTER TDC.
Steve
How very informative and amusing at the end there. - Screw into no.1 cylinder with the piston down.
- Gently wind crank clockwise until the piston comes to a stop against your stop tool. This will be close to TDC
- Mark the pulley where it aligns with the timing mark on the timing case.
- Wind anticlock all the way round until the piston again comes to a stop.
- Mark the pulley again.
- True TDC will be half way between the two marks you made on the pulley.
- You can now see if your measurements agree with the stamped in TDC mark on the pulley.
The Rover V8 has a harmonic damper on the front pulley. It functions by the fact it is in two parts bonded together with rubber. The rubber damps out vibration.
What can happen is the bond breaks down and the two parts rotate relative to each other and the stamped in TDC markings are no longer correct as I found on a customers car which seemed to run best with a timing of 34 degrees AFTER TDC.
Steve
phazed 11.83 said:
A very informative description by Steve.
I reckon my bolt is long enough but I will find out this weekend as I intend to alter my cam timing to produce more top end power and more importantly at a higher rpm as it now peaks at 5000 rpm.
Surprised I ran a 12.16 at the weekend!
Yep, seems slower,,, I was closer to you but my cars the same speed as before Peter 109 mph I reckon my bolt is long enough but I will find out this weekend as I intend to alter my cam timing to produce more top end power and more importantly at a higher rpm as it now peaks at 5000 rpm.
Surprised I ran a 12.16 at the weekend!
But it seems to run safely there so that's good. Sweet as a watch since
From an engineering point of view I find the drag runs really mimic your engines spec,,,,and diff for that matter! Even on Derek's tyre's I'd jump off the line with bite then spin up, couldn't catch the power, to much torque,,, to much throttle!!! Then it was to slow higher up the revs lack of Bhp ( relative) to the fastest in the flipping land !!!!!
But a 12.6 on my set up is fast and ok in my book. Cam, heads, intake, all road based and great for the everyday.
The next race will be 200 yards as slow as you can without shunting,,, in 3rd gear. Winner
Edited by Classic Chim 300bhp 12.604 on Friday 19th May 08:38
Steve_D said:
It is a dead stop used for finding true Top Dead Centre (TDC)
The Rover V8 has a harmonic damper on the front pulley. It functions by the fact it is in two parts bonded together with rubber. The rubber damps out vibration.
What can happen is the bond breaks down and the two parts rotate relative to each other and the stamped in TDC markings are no longer correct as I found on a customers car which seemed to run best with a timing of 34 degrees AFTER TDC.
Steve
Shouldn't that be 34 degrees BEFORE TDC?- Screw into no.1 cylinder with the piston down.
- Gently wind crank clockwise until the piston comes to a stop against your stop tool. This will be close to TDC
- Mark the pulley where it aligns with the timing mark on the timing case.
- Wind anticlock all the way round until the piston again comes to a stop.
- Mark the pulley again.
- True TDC will be half way between the two marks you made on the pulley.
- You can now see if your measurements agree with the stamped in TDC mark on the pulley.
The Rover V8 has a harmonic damper on the front pulley. It functions by the fact it is in two parts bonded together with rubber. The rubber damps out vibration.
What can happen is the bond breaks down and the two parts rotate relative to each other and the stamped in TDC markings are no longer correct as I found on a customers car which seemed to run best with a timing of 34 degrees AFTER TDC.
Steve
DangerousDerek said:
Steve_D said:
It is a dead stop used for finding true Top Dead Centre (TDC)
The Rover V8 has a harmonic damper on the front pulley. It functions by the fact it is in two parts bonded together with rubber. The rubber damps out vibration.
What can happen is the bond breaks down and the two parts rotate relative to each other and the stamped in TDC markings are no longer correct as I found on a customers car which seemed to run best with a timing of 34 degrees AFTER TDC.
Steve
Shouldn't that be 34 degrees BEFORE TDC?- Screw into no.1 cylinder with the piston down.
- Gently wind crank clockwise until the piston comes to a stop against your stop tool. This will be close to TDC
- Mark the pulley where it aligns with the timing mark on the timing case.
- Wind anticlock all the way round until the piston again comes to a stop.
- Mark the pulley again.
- True TDC will be half way between the two marks you made on the pulley.
- You can now see if your measurements agree with the stamped in TDC mark on the pulley.
The Rover V8 has a harmonic damper on the front pulley. It functions by the fact it is in two parts bonded together with rubber. The rubber damps out vibration.
What can happen is the bond breaks down and the two parts rotate relative to each other and the stamped in TDC markings are no longer correct as I found on a customers car which seemed to run best with a timing of 34 degrees AFTER TDC.
Steve
that pulley would not be sitting on my engine ill tell you that seen a few Mitsubishi harmonic balancers fail/fall apart in my time but at least the chassis kept them in place on the Tiv I would rather not find out if its crept bin it never play down the job of this component and its destruction if things go wrong 
Edited by Sardonicus on Friday 19th May 10:19
Steve_D said:
It is a dead stop used for finding true Top Dead Centre (TDC)
The Rover V8 has a harmonic damper on the front pulley. It functions by the fact it is in two parts bonded together with rubber. The rubber damps out vibration.
What can happen is the bond breaks down and the two parts rotate relative to each other and the stamped in TDC markings are no longer correct as I found on a customers car which seemed to run best with a timing of 34 degrees AFTER TDC.
Steve
- Screw into no.1 cylinder with the piston down.
- Gently wind crank clockwise until the piston comes to a stop against your stop tool. This will be close to TDC
- Mark the pulley where it aligns with the timing mark on the timing case.
- Wind anticlock all the way round until the piston again comes to a stop.
- Mark the pulley again.
- True TDC will be half way between the two marks you made on the pulley.
- You can now see if your measurements agree with the stamped in TDC mark on the pulley.
The Rover V8 has a harmonic damper on the front pulley. It functions by the fact it is in two parts bonded together with rubber. The rubber damps out vibration.
What can happen is the bond breaks down and the two parts rotate relative to each other and the stamped in TDC markings are no longer correct as I found on a customers car which seemed to run best with a timing of 34 degrees AFTER TDC.
Steve
Hmm. Interesting. I've got a RV8 (3.9 using a block from a Chim) in the P5B that was built up by "a specialist" and I've had long term problems with a vibration. Also a timing issue. i.e. it won't start with the timing marks correctly set and runs better well advanced according to the timing marks.I doubt the damper is original so now you have me wondering if the timing marks are way out. I did try to check TDC but as you've now described it's quite difficult to do it accurately.
Don't suppose you have a spare engineered plug?
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