What did you do in the garage yesterday?

[QBee]

Tony91 said:

FoxTVR430 said:

Nice and on a clean towel!!

Another towel shot Thanks to N7GTX for the info
Jaguar X Type Calliper's
Focus ST170 grooved and dimpled Disks
Big Red ST220 Calliper rebuild kit seals pistons bleed valves.
Brembo pads
Total come's in at £145

Interesting - what diameter are those? I need to change my brakes asap and am on 324mm Focus RS kit

[Tony91]

QBee said:

Interesting - what diameter are those? I need to change my brakes asap and am on 324mm Focus RS kit

300mm from mintbitz ebay £64.99 who are MTECH brakes

[Matthew Poxon]

phazed 11.83 said:

Hi Mathew. I would really like to try your seats sometime.

Maybe we could meet up somewhere , or do you ever come over to the posh area?

The posh area LOL. Yes of course, car is away having some work done at the moment but I will give you a shout when I get it back.

[jazzdude]

N7GTX said:

I did wonder if maybe I should have tried your way. I undid the rear bolts first and replaced both rear gaskets quite easily as the Y piece was pulling the manifolds away at the rear. The fronts were just too tight so undid the clamps. I was worried that I might strip a bolt or the head when refitting.
I used the ratchet strap method last time and now everything is bolted down and refitted, might as well go with it

This is the gap:

I have taken mine of a about 4 times to do the gaskets, body lift etc. The first couple of times, with an ACT Y piece, needed strap to pull them together as the gap was around 8mm.

The last time I did it, I had put the exhaust on first, loosely mind, and slotted the Y piece into it. The flanges married up straight away, no straps and sealed tightly without any fuss.

So that make me think was that a fluke or is there something to do with getting the right overall angle?

[Classic Chim]

Then you get mine, Clive Y fell into place! I still find to get a decent seal I have to loosen the n/s maniflod bolts to get it to clamp up easily. That's not much fun there Iain

[N7GTX]

I think the turbo added to the problems of alignment like Jazzdude says. The turbo itself is not bolted to anything on the chassis. It is held by the 2 x Y piece clamps and the exhaust pipe clamp. As I had removed all 3 the turbo dropped down.
Once I fitted the ratchet strap, when tightening it down it was pushing the turbo down further. So I used a 10" 1/2 " sq drive extension on top of the trolley jack and pushed it up while tightening the ratchet strap. After an hour of fannying about I got it all aligned.
Better keep an eye on your Clive Y piece Al or I'll have it away....

[Classic Chim]

N7GTX said:

I think the turbo added to the problems of alignment like Jazzdude says. The turbo itself is not bolted to anything on the chassis. It is held by the 2 x Y piece clamps and the exhaust pipe clamp. As I had removed all 3 the turbo dropped down.
Once I fitted the ratchet strap, when tightening it down it was pushing the turbo down further. So I used a 10" 1/2 " sq drive extension on top of the trolley jack and pushed it up while tightening the ratchet strap. After an hour of fannying about I got it all aligned.
Better keep an eye on your Clive Y piece Al or I'll have it away....

I might be tempted to part with it, if I do I'll give you first dibs,,,

[jazzdude]

Was in the engine bay just now... spoke too soon, there is a small leak at the clamp on one side, could feel the puff of exhaust going on the side of the Y piece.

Do I tap the clamp and tighten some more, or undo it, put some paste there and then put the clamp back on?

[angus337]

Changed fuel pump and filter
Changed out old Tech edge wide band for zetronix ZT-3
Finally Sorted idle mapping
Replaced drop links all round
sorted tapping noise (exhaust leak at y Piece flange)
Sorted Mot failures, hand brake (again) and side lights
Much needed clean




Reasonably successful day just need to pass the mot retest on Monday.

Edited by angus337 on Sunday 25th June 01:04

[Classic Chim]

jazzdude said:

Was in the engine bay just now... spoke too soon, there is a small leak at the clamp on one side, could feel the puff of exhaust going on the side of the Y piece.

Do I tap the clamp and tighten some more, or undo it, put some paste there and then put the clamp back on?

Without seeing pics of the clamp, hard to say. I find if I don't get a very close fit by loosening manifold bolts the clamps will not pull the two together and tapping ratcheting up the clamps will just damage them. I'd rather loosen the bolts than ratchet the maniflolds together personally as the pressure is to great imo.

I never use paste but I do use some old grease over the flanges to aid the clamps slipping on.
If those clamps aren't tight down they will leak,,, some sealant can only help but if the mating surfaces are not lined up it will always leak. I remove exhaust so Y piece is floating, this allows a bit more wiggle room.

[phazed 11.83]

angus337 said:

Nice colour scheme!

[phazed 11.83]

Spent more than half a day fitting an amplified TV aerial to the roof of our old motorhome.

Can't believe it took so long, threading the cables through cupboards and partitions and then all the wiring that was involved as well all nicely hidden.

I think I might almost prefer to do a pair of exhaust manifold gaskets on my chim, almost!

[s p a c e m a n]

Needed access to the fuel line so whilst bits were off I got the jetwash out. Can see why people paint bits rather than polish, the castings are terrible. Was going to flat and polish the plenum and rockers but ended up just giving the raised lines a quick going over rather than drive myself crazy. Maybe a winter job...

[QBee]

Mine were done for me during an engine build last winter. 3 different cans of paint, flatted back, lacquered. Pleased with it.

[mk1fan]

Been progressing things methodically on Wendy. Almost at the point of dealing with the rear brakes - the reason I parked her up!

New stainless manifolds (ACT) are back from the ceramic coaters. Passenger side is on, the plenum base and top all reinstated and the cooling pipework rearranged so that it now 'works' flow and venting wise.

Numerous electrical faults - cracked insulation, rusted connectors, loose connectors and broken wires - fixed.

Even started cleaning up the paintwork.

Bumper and front airdam modded and awaiting paint. Bootlid mods started but awaiting SE spoiler to turn up. Decided not to fit the bonnet vents just yet.

Just got the battery tray and driver's side inner wing to repair. Then I can refit the battery, [driver's side] manifold, and starter.

[QBee]

Please refresh my memory, is "Wendy" a wedge or a Red Red Robin (Reliant, presumably?)

[mk1fan]

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

[phazed 11.83]

You have been busy Stewart!

Look forward to seeing her when she's done!

If the round steering things turn up, I'm away for 2 weeks.

[BeastMaster]

Repaired Rad ready to be reinstalled into the car



As always one thing leads to another, the Air Filter just fell apart along with the pipe to the AFM so replaced these along the way.



Had the rad re-cored around 2.5 years ago, and last week developed a small weep around the RH core to tank joint. Took it back to Arrow Rads in Avonmouth who said they had not seen that before and repaired it for the next day. Had no receipt as thought it would be out of warranty but they did not charge me - great to know still old fashion values around.

[Discopotatoes]

Link G4 Knock light fitted as I'm now running 230 kpa

Edited by Discopotatoes on Tuesday 4th July 21:31