What did you do in the garage yesterday?
Discussion
jojackson4 said:
Removed this 
b
d thing stopped me playing at the pod
But big thanks to Jools for a fast email fault find and should be running by the end of the week
While these things are generally pretty reliable VR sensor failure is far from uncommon as jojackson4 can confirm, I know the one fitted to my car during the Canems installation was not a genuine Ford part made to strict OEM standards.b
d thing stopped me playing at the pod But big thanks to Jools for a fast email fault find and should be running by the end of the week
So I replaced it with a genuine Ford item which looked like this.
This was part of a series of sensor changes I went through earlier this year to free the car from poor quality components, I also correctly re-gapped the VR sensor as it had been fitted micron close to the trigger wheel, probably to compensate for other issues I subsequently uncovered. With the new genuine Ford VR sensor fitted and correctly gapped there was a definite improvement in idle quality, the random millisecond engine speed drop outs I'd been recording completely vanished.
I also replaced my AEM wide band lambda sensor with a genuine Bosch sensor 0258007018 (LS7018) for just £58.00, the original AEM item that came with my AEM X-Wifi kit was actually a Bosch LS7018 but put in an AEM box then sold at a premium, it had become contaminated/fouled just as a spark plug becomes fouled. It's irregular feedback voltages were giving my Canems Dual Fuel ECU a really hard time, the inconsistent signals meant the ECU couldn't maintain smooth drivability in closed loop as it constantly attempted to correct and inevitably over correct based on the jumpy data it was seeing from the fouled lambda sensor.
Finally and this was the big one, I replaced the cheap no name Vauxhall MaP sensor supplied with my Canems installation with a high quality NTK sensor for just £28.00, this sensor being manufactured to the strictest standards by those meticulous Japanese who give us the super reliable NGK spark plugs. The new NTK MaP sensor instantly solved my engine load dropouts on tip in and decel (a specific dead spot hard to capture without a scope) that had plagued the car from day one of the Canems installation.
I then reposition the sensor so it no longer got drowned in rain water when driving in poor weather, closer inspection of the installers original positioning revealed the sensor was getting a nice shower on every down stroke of the near side wiper blade
The three sensor changes each made their own positive contribution but combined to deliver truly transformational drivability improvements, my point being not all sensors are created equal and you should never penny pinch on these things, actually if you know where to buy your sensors and only use trusted sellers and manufacturers the quality sensors need not be any more expensive than the cheap Chinese junk that was deployed during my Canems installation to save a few quid.
Oh, and don't get me onto those dreadful Chinese waterproof fuse holders that come with the Canems installation, I've had a number of these junk items fail on me now so their shocking quality and pish poor reliability is nothing but consistent! I've been left stranded at the side of the road twice now by these nasty fuse holders
Anyone running the Canems system is strongly advised to rid their TVR of any poor quality sensors used to keep the cost of this engine management installation below that of their competitors, and they should definitely remove the nasty waterproof fuse holders too
For the record the Canems product is great, well the newer ECUs David Hampshire offers are great. The early ECUs appear to have been hand soldered where newer ones clearly have far superior and infinitely more reliable machine built PCBs and internals, however it has to be said up until recently I was well supported by the installers and Canems themselves during what was clearly a period of development for them, their product... and the way it was being installed.
They were however all learning on my time, in the end I've found myself with an ECU that deliverers the rialiability I should have enjoyed right from the start and understandably after all the issues I suffered it's reassuring to know I have a spare unit to fall back on should I ever need it. Things did come to head however when the installers started to blame issues such as earth loops on me which was deeply disappointing considering for many years I had loyally hid my issues from the TVR community while at the same time being their biggest advocate on these pages. With this finger pointing understandably causing a breakdown in relations I set about fixing the final issues myself, at which point I uncovered a number of schoolboy wiring mistakes and a plethora of very poor quality sensors/components used.
Anyway, all sorted by yours truly now and for very little money, the spending with the installers to achieve zero progress had to end so only by taking ownership of the issues myself was I able to finally achieve the results the professionals were unable to deliver themselves. Nothing exemplifies the Latin statement 'Caveat Emptor' better than my above experience!
After last night I may have to apologise to the crank sensor
Looks like it was something else that had stopped the sensor reading the wheel
The trigger wheel And pully has moved forward causing the fault
So the new ecu has probably saved my engine
The damage the pully coming off at 6krpm would have probably smashed the front end to bits
Looks like it was something else that had stopped the sensor reading the wheel
The trigger wheel And pully has moved forward causing the fault
So the new ecu has probably saved my engine
The damage the pully coming off at 6krpm would have probably smashed the front end to bits
Oh st 
Peter might be worth removing that front cover to inspect the oil pump inner gear for galling because those pulleys usually flay around a little before and after the bolt fails , scrutinise the crank nose & fr pulley inc diameter and key-way and slot too , I'm confident you will but just putting this out there
t Peter might be worth removing that front cover to inspect the oil pump inner gear for galling because those pulleys usually flay around a little before and after the bolt fails , scrutinise the crank nose & fr pulley inc diameter and key-way and slot too , I'm confident you will but just putting this out there Sardonicus said:
Oh st Peter might be worth removing that front cover to inspect the oil pump inner gear for galling because those pulleys usually flay around a little before and after the bolt fails , scrutinise the crank nose & fr pulley inc diameter and key-way and slot too , I'm confident you will but just putting this out there
It all looks good t Peter might be worth removing that front cover to inspect the oil pump inner gear for galling because those pulleys usually flay around a little before and after the bolt fails , scrutinise the crank nose & fr pulley inc diameter and key-way and slot too , I'm confident you will but just putting this out there Key and way
Nose of the crank
And the inside of the pully
A think I have got away with it as it only moved 5mm ish till the CPS could not read the trigger wheel
No play between crank And pully and not a flake of steel to be seen
I’m so glad I put the 14 cux in the bin other wise I think it would be a much bigger problem
Classic Chim said:
It’s been so long since I drove mine can you to me what it felt like to drive the beast.;)
the stonking acceleration and thunderous noise still puts that silly grin on my face... Get out and drive it mate 
Two days spent chassis cleaning the Chim and putting winter wheels and Snow Proxies on . Then my new roller garage door refused to operate this morning... diagnosed by manufacturer as requiring new motor !!! So I manually cranked it up 2 inches and tried again ... BINGO .. FULL HOUSE ... It was working again ...
So the Tuscan is now up on the ramp ... The question now is ..... To SORN or not to SORN the Tuscan for £150 is it worth it ???
So the Tuscan is now up on the ramp ... The question now is ..... To SORN or not to SORN the Tuscan for £150 is it worth it ???
glow worm said:
So the Tuscan is now up on the ramp ... The question now is ..... To SORN or not to SORN the Tuscan for £150 is it worth it ???
No!! Or should that be yes? I mean don’t SORN it... Some cracking days to come in the autumn for hooning
maybe not too many but you want to be able to jump straight in it and go on a lovely crisp morning Autumn or Winter morning.... makes you feel like your living... it’s essential for mental wellbeing during these challenging times 
It's a hell of a wiggle getting it out with the gearbox on! I'm not sure which way I prefer, gearbox on or off. Probably off now I've done it so many times!
What are you having done to the engine? Standard rebuild? Something else?
Here is my alternative method of lifting the engine out.
And one with the gearbox attached.
I'm glad that's all in the past now..................
What are you having done to the engine? Standard rebuild? Something else?
Here is my alternative method of lifting the engine out.
And one with the gearbox attached.
I'm glad that's all in the past now..................
phazed said:
It's a hell of a wiggle getting it out with the gearbox on! I'm not sure which way I prefer, gearbox on or off. Probably off now I've done it so many times!
What are you having done to the engine? Standard rebuild? Something else?
Here is my alternative method of lifting the engine out.
And one with the gearbox attached.
I'm glad that's all in the past now..................
What are you having done to the engine? Standard rebuild? Something else?
Here is my alternative method of lifting the engine out.
And one with the gearbox attached.
I'm glad that's all in the past now..................
prefer gearbox off personally its not like the box is hard to remove anyway , always did on my RWD Fords too phazed said:
It's a hell of a wiggle getting it out with the gearbox on! I'm not sure which way I prefer, gearbox on or off. Probably off now I've done it so many times!
What are you having done to the engine? Standard rebuild? Something else?
Here is my alternative method of lifting the engine out.
And one with the gearbox attached.
I'm glad that's all in the past now..................
Phazed that's pure genius! looks like we have the same lift so i will definitely remember that for the future, and gearbox off would have certainly been easier! (i tend to do everything the hard way)What are you having done to the engine? Standard rebuild? Something else?
Here is my alternative method of lifting the engine out.
And one with the gearbox attached.
I'm glad that's all in the past now..................
in answer to your question the engine is off for top hat liners, probably new pistons and a general re condition. its staying 5ltr but will all be balanced up. Lightened flywheel, aftermarket ECU, new engine loom and new inlet manifold with independent throttle body's thrown in for good measure.
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