Impreza steering rack mod
Discussion
You could buy these and use a couple, I'm sure M20 is the size I bought.
I'd cut a split in them to just slide over the rack to save any taking apart, also makes it easy when checking lock to lock.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORM-A-METRIC-NYLON-PLA...
I'd cut a split in them to just slide over the rack to save any taking apart, also makes it easy when checking lock to lock.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORM-A-METRIC-NYLON-PLA...
First problem. Removing the scooby inner tie rods. They're held in place with a lock washer. Google says inner tie rod tool and breaker bar, ok if you have those and the rack is on the car but not much help if it's on the bench and you're working with conventional weapons. Scooby world says drift the washers off and replace, but they look very integral to the rack.
Advice before I start hitting?! Do I need new washers to fit the TVR arms?
Advice before I start hitting?! Do I need new washers to fit the TVR arms?
so not surprising those lock tabs are an available item Right then.
Scooby arms removed, rack housing cleaned up and fabricator contacted to modify the splined shaft to 17mm hex and make the mounting brackets.
Identified the Ka UJ and a few other pieces.
Question, the parts list on P7 talks of male ends for the new hard pipes and modifying AN6 adapters for the rotary valve unions;
Is there a proper name for these male ends because while I know exactly what you mean I can't find much in the way of motorsport parts if I search for 'male ends'!
Also on the AN6 components, I can't modify these myself so I presume then if I take the TVR pump and hoses down to them with the rack and say "make it work, old boy" they will do me proud.
Scooby arms removed, rack housing cleaned up and fabricator contacted to modify the splined shaft to 17mm hex and make the mounting brackets.
Identified the Ka UJ and a few other pieces.
Question, the parts list on P7 talks of male ends for the new hard pipes and modifying AN6 adapters for the rotary valve unions;
Is there a proper name for these male ends because while I know exactly what you mean I can't find much in the way of motorsport parts if I search for 'male ends'!
Also on the AN6 components, I can't modify these myself so I presume then if I take the TVR pump and hoses down to them with the rack and say "make it work, old boy" they will do me proud.
I’m assuming the male ends refer to the hard line ends if you make new ones?
I didn’t bother and bent the originals.
The fittings required for the pump and rack are the biggest pita of the whole job as most off the shelf stuff isn’t designed for the job. I ended up spending £100 shipping some over from the states as the supplier (pirtek) mentioned earlier in the thread couldn’t help me.
I would recommend taking them both to a hydraulics place to see if they can do something for you.
I may have the An6 fittings with the o rings that fit the Scooby rack going spare but they did cost me £15 a piece, let me know if your struggling and I will dig them out.
I used some loctite hydraulic sealant to fit the one into the pump housing as it was not the same as the rack.
I have not looked back to check the sizes but the fitting for the pump I used was as below but please double check the size.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-AN6-M16x1-5-Metric-St...
I didn’t bother and bent the originals.
The fittings required for the pump and rack are the biggest pita of the whole job as most off the shelf stuff isn’t designed for the job. I ended up spending £100 shipping some over from the states as the supplier (pirtek) mentioned earlier in the thread couldn’t help me.
I would recommend taking them both to a hydraulics place to see if they can do something for you.
I may have the An6 fittings with the o rings that fit the Scooby rack going spare but they did cost me £15 a piece, let me know if your struggling and I will dig them out.
I used some loctite hydraulic sealant to fit the one into the pump housing as it was not the same as the rack.
I have not looked back to check the sizes but the fitting for the pump I used was as below but please double check the size.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-AN6-M16x1-5-Metric-St...
Edited by Belle427 on Saturday 18th January 17:37
Edited by Belle427 on Saturday 18th January 17:42
Edited by Belle427 on Saturday 18th January 17:51
Edited by Belle427 on Saturday 18th January 17:52
Edited by Belle427 on Saturday 18th January 17:55
Thanks, that's a kind offer. I went into the local Pirtek franchise today (now called / operating as totally hydraulics or some such) and they weren't very helpful tbh.
I got hold of a blanking plug and nozzle attachment for the main fluid in/out unions, my thoughts being before I spend money on machining the input shaft (£50 or so) to hex it would be prudent to make sure it's leak tight.
What would be the best way to test it? My thought was to fill it up with some ATF220 as far as possible and then put 7 bar behind it using a cycle track pump or if I can't mate up the track pump, 7 bar of nitrogen or compressed air from an outlet at work (via a step down regulator to ramp it up) - hold half an hour and watch for leaks from the rack ends etc?
While at not-Pirtek I also picked up some details for a general automotive hydraulics fabricator near Staines so that's where I'll go once I'm happy with the state of the rack and the machining is done (and I have the pump out). If they can't sort out suitable connections I'll take you up on that
Decided I'm going to use the original pump for now as there's nothing wrong with it, and where the car is kept isn't really set up for cabling work - no power, and a bit dark / dingy. I'm also an electrical numpty.
I got hold of a blanking plug and nozzle attachment for the main fluid in/out unions, my thoughts being before I spend money on machining the input shaft (£50 or so) to hex it would be prudent to make sure it's leak tight.
What would be the best way to test it? My thought was to fill it up with some ATF220 as far as possible and then put 7 bar behind it using a cycle track pump or if I can't mate up the track pump, 7 bar of nitrogen or compressed air from an outlet at work (via a step down regulator to ramp it up) - hold half an hour and watch for leaks from the rack ends etc?
While at not-Pirtek I also picked up some details for a general automotive hydraulics fabricator near Staines so that's where I'll go once I'm happy with the state of the rack and the machining is done (and I have the pump out). If they can't sort out suitable connections I'll take you up on that
Decided I'm going to use the original pump for now as there's nothing wrong with it, and where the car is kept isn't really set up for cabling work - no power, and a bit dark / dingy. I'm also an electrical numpty.
I used my £50 rack straight from a specialist jap dismantler and is still going great guns.
Regarding reducing the input shaft down to a hexagon. I cut it to length, it is just mild steel. I marked a hexagon on the shaft, cut down the sides with a hacksaw and finished it off by hand filing.
The result is better than you'd think and let's face it, you are clamping a fiesta universal joint fitting to it and even if it was a couple of millimetres out, (which it isn't) it wouldn't matter.
Regarding reducing the input shaft down to a hexagon. I cut it to length, it is just mild steel. I marked a hexagon on the shaft, cut down the sides with a hacksaw and finished it off by hand filing.
The result is better than you'd think and let's face it, you are clamping a fiesta universal joint fitting to it and even if it was a couple of millimetres out, (which it isn't) it wouldn't matter.
phazed said:
I used my £50 rack straight from a specialist jap dismantler and is still going great guns.
Regarding reducing the input shaft down to a hexagon. I cut it to length, it is just mild steel. I marked a hexagon on the shaft, cut down the sides with a hacksaw and finished it off by hand filing.
The result is better than you'd think and let's face it, you are clamping a fiesta universal joint fitting to it and even if it was a couple of millimetres out, (which it isn't) it wouldn't matter.
Lovely job, cutting and filing, engineering at its finestRegarding reducing the input shaft down to a hexagon. I cut it to length, it is just mild steel. I marked a hexagon on the shaft, cut down the sides with a hacksaw and finished it off by hand filing.
The result is better than you'd think and let's face it, you are clamping a fiesta universal joint fitting to it and even if it was a couple of millimetres out, (which it isn't) it wouldn't matter.
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