clutch lightening servo
Discussion
DaveG said:
More details of component parts and installation please?
This company sell the servo for the MGB which you simply plumb into the clutch line. You will need to buy a length of quality vacuum hose - I have some 9mm silicon - which will not collapse under vacuum. You will also need a one way adaptor that screws into the plenum.http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-ADU1402
Some have mounted the unit in the boot down in a corner and as QBee says, his is where the carbon canister sits behind the offside headlamp.
In the fitting instructions it does say you should avoid mounting the servo anywhere near heat sources so a little concerned at the location in the picture at the top although a heat blanket is on the manifold.
The kit comes with full fitting instructions. You want 1.9 for less pedal pressure.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LOCKHEED-TYPE-REMOTE-BRA...
Edited by N7GTX on Monday 27th June 17:15
As requested used mgb servo 1.65 to 1 (1.9 t0 1 I felt made it to light , no feel and was also recommended by the man who owns AP) fitted as follows using 1/4 or 6mm pipe.The inlet and out from the servo require 3/8 to 7/16 male adaptor. disconnect the pipe from the connector block to the slave cylinder and gently bend clear . Make up a pipe of the right length to go between the connector block and the inlet side of the servo , fit a male 7/16 for the connector end and 7/16 female to connect to servo via adaptor connector . using a further length of pipe fitted with 2 female 7/16 pipe ends connect the pipe to the slave cylinder to the servo outlet bleed the system . I cut the pipe to the brake servo and fitted a T piece using 10mm of additional hose to connect to the servo Works fine. The servo is mounted on a bracket rubber mounted to the inside of the wing to absorb vibration,a strengthening bracket is attached to alternator bracket , used alloy to allow some movement . The whole unit is then wrapped in more exhaust blanket , after I took pics . I think that deserves a can of guiness.
I bought a 1.65 to 1 servo kit and will be diving into this when the car also has it's steering rack and radiator out next month.
I have tried following your instructions but think a sketch diagram would really help visualise the connections better.
As I understand it, does the new servo basically replace the slave?
I have tried following your instructions but think a sketch diagram would really help visualise the connections better.
As I understand it, does the new servo basically replace the slave?
Edited by jazzdude on Sunday 11th December 06:24
No need to T into the brake servo line if you don't want to. On the plenum base you have 2 extra blanking plugs so you can simply fit a non return valve screwing it straight in with no mods. One blank is shown with a smaller bolt in it and the other is hiding behind the black pipe marked 'fuel', both either side of the brake servo fitting.
I used this one as it is stainless and screws straight in - 5/8th UNF
Available here but you should find them cheaper.
http://www.ratsport.com/PBSCProduct.asp?ItmID=1441...
Then fit the vacuum pipe from the NRV to the servo unit.
The MGB Hive units come complete with easy to follow instructions. The pics with the instructions make it easier to follow.
I used this one as it is stainless and screws straight in - 5/8th UNF
Available here but you should find them cheaper.
http://www.ratsport.com/PBSCProduct.asp?ItmID=1441...
Then fit the vacuum pipe from the NRV to the servo unit.
The MGB Hive units come complete with easy to follow instructions. The pics with the instructions make it easier to follow.
Great info thanks.
I got the 'kit' from mgbhive, will it have those threaded connectors with the kit.
Also I am going to place the servo where the carbon canister is now once I remove it. I know where the slave is but how difficult is it to get to the back of the master cylinder from under the car?
Once connected is bleeding the system any different than the procedure written about in the Bible?
I got the 'kit' from mgbhive, will it have those threaded connectors with the kit.
Also I am going to place the servo where the carbon canister is now once I remove it. I know where the slave is but how difficult is it to get to the back of the master cylinder from under the car?
Once connected is bleeding the system any different than the procedure written about in the Bible?
The master cylinder is under the black metal panel held by screws and sealant on the drivers side inner wing.
You can run the brake pipe inside the wing from your fitting position to the master cylinder quite easily.
Or you can disconnect the pipe at the slave and then connect this to a new pipe and run it to the servo inlet. Make another pipe and run this from the servo outlet to the slave. This avoids disturbing the master but you will still have to remove the black panel to top up the fluid when bleeding the new system. It sounds harder than it really is.
The non return valve was not in my servo kit and if you want to join brake pipes you will need some male and female unions. Bleeding is normal just like doing brakes.
You can run the brake pipe inside the wing from your fitting position to the master cylinder quite easily.
Or you can disconnect the pipe at the slave and then connect this to a new pipe and run it to the servo inlet. Make another pipe and run this from the servo outlet to the slave. This avoids disturbing the master but you will still have to remove the black panel to top up the fluid when bleeding the new system. It sounds harder than it really is.
The non return valve was not in my servo kit and if you want to join brake pipes you will need some male and female unions. Bleeding is normal just like doing brakes.
Edited by N7GTX on Tuesday 13th December 09:16
keith-vznby said:
The servo is mounted on a bracket rubber mounted to the inside of the wing to absorb vibration, a strengthening bracket is attached to alternator bracket, used alloy to allow some movement.
(savagely cropped) This reads as though the servo is attached to both the inner wing and the engine...
Seemed like a good idea as I have a heavy clutch 
So I order it!
I didn't realise it was such a big, heavy lump! It's some 7" across and fitting it in a griff is not quite so simple
It would go in front of the rad but I have an oil cooler there! I have no carbon canister but it won't fit in their unless I make the cubby hole bigger
. Putting it in the boot is not the preferred option.
I have to take the rad out to fit a thicker ARB so will sleep on it and think about cutting a bigger hole in the o/s wing. Any Griff boys out there who have fitted this or are we to hardcore to admit it
So I order it!I didn't realise it was such a big, heavy lump! It's some 7" across and fitting it in a griff is not quite so simple
It would go in front of the rad but I have an oil cooler there! I have no carbon canister but it won't fit in their unless I make the cubby hole bigger. Putting it in the boot is not the preferred option.I have to take the rad out to fit a thicker ARB so will sleep on it and think about cutting a bigger hole in the o/s wing. Any Griff boys out there who have fitted this or are we to hardcore to admit it
roseytvr said:
Seemed like a good idea as I have a heavy clutch So I order it!
I didn't realise it was such a big, heavy lump! It's some 7" across and fitting it in a griff is not quite so simple It would go in front of the rad but I have an oil cooler there! I have no carbon canister but it won't fit in their unless I make the cubby hole bigger. Putting it in the boot is not the preferred option.
I have to take the rad out to fit a thicker ARB so will sleep on it and think about cutting a bigger hole in the o/s wing. Any Griff boys out there who have fitted this or are we to hardcore to admit it
Im considering it for my Grief! So I order it!I didn't realise it was such a big, heavy lump! It's some 7" across and fitting it in a griff is not quite so simple
It would go in front of the rad but I have an oil cooler there! I have no carbon canister but it won't fit in their unless I make the cubby hole bigger. Putting it in the boot is not the preferred option.I have to take the rad out to fit a thicker ARB so will sleep on it and think about cutting a bigger hole in the o/s wing. Any Griff boys out there who have fitted this or are we to hardcore to admit it
neal1980 said:
So which ratio got 1.9 or 1.65 both being talked about as the one to fit.
My clutch is rather heavy so this could be a quick win and save me pulling the box to fit a twin plate.
My twin plate Mcleod clutch is pretty much as heavy as my old single plate Mcleod! My clutch is rather heavy so this could be a quick win and save me pulling the box to fit a twin plate.
Makes sense as the twin handles more then twice the power as the single.
I to will fit a servo to the clutch during my winter refit as it is the worst,(heaviest
) aspect of the car.neal1980 said:
So which ratio got 1.9 or 1.65 both being talked about as the one to fit.
My clutch is rather heavy so this could be a quick win and save me pulling the box to fit a twin plate.
I got the 1.9 but it is bigger than the 1.65 so if you are short of room this may be the deciding factor unless you are thinking of fitting it in the boot or you have room in the wing or front area.My clutch is rather heavy so this could be a quick win and save me pulling the box to fit a twin plate.
I think the one shown fitted next to the alternator in Keith's pictures is the smaller 1.65.
Keith has wrapped his as the instructions do warn against excessive heat.
phazed said:
My twin plate Mcleod clutch is pretty much as heavy as my old single plate Mcleod!
Makes sense as the twin handles more then twice the power as the single.
I to will fit a servo to the clutch during my winter refit as it is the worst,(heaviest ) aspect of the car.
There must be something wrong there Peter, Twin Plate twice the surface area so not as much pressure needed. Mac has the Mclead Twin plate 800bhp clutch and you almost think there is no clutch attached its mega light and copes with his 590bhp 600ft/lb monster...Thats the idea but they cost alot more.Makes sense as the twin handles more then twice the power as the single.
I to will fit a servo to the clutch during my winter refit as it is the worst,(heaviest
) aspect of the car.I think fittng one will be on my winter project too along with the other long list of to do's.
neal1980 said:
There must be something wrong there Peter, Twin Plate twice the surface area so not as much pressure needed. Mac has the Mclead Twin plate 800bhp clutch and you almost think there is no clutch attached its mega light and copes with his 590bhp 600ft/lb monster...Thats the idea but they cost alot more.
I think fittng one will be on my winter project too along with the other long list of to do's.
Maybe so but mine is the same heavy weight as before!I think fittng one will be on my winter project too along with the other long list of to do's.
Still have the original slave fitted as far as I can tell, possibly.
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