Heater blower goosed?

Heater blower goosed?

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caduceus

Original Poster:

6,071 posts

266 months

Monday 27th February 2017
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FoxTVR430 said:
Sounds like your fuse has blown then if you have no "beep" and the display is showing a high value. e.g. >200 ohms.
When testing the fuse on the PCB, there is no beep OR any reading. There is no reading of 200 ohms.
I assume this means the fuse is toast?

Thanks for the tip re the leads. I tried both ways, still no dice.

Paulprior

864 posts

105 months

Monday 27th February 2017
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Agree that it sounds like the fuse, a simple fuse is basically a piece of wire, its size determines the amp rating, if you put too many amps through a piece of wire then it melts, that's what the fuse is doing, so if it's good then you should read the same as you do when you touch the probes together, i.e. 1.0, but before having it replaced just check that there is not a layer of lawyer where you are measuring, just scrape it first with a knife or screwdriver to make sure you have a good contact.
If the fuse is blown you need to check the motor doesn't have a short to earth.
Obviously these type of fuses are not so easy to replace, but to test everything out you could connect another one in parallel with croc clips or just solder it on top of the old one, if it then works you could remove the old one and replace it, that's best done by someone used to doing it though.
Paul

caduceus

Original Poster:

6,071 posts

266 months

Tuesday 28th February 2017
quotequote all
Paulprior said:
If the fuse is blown you need to check the motor doesn't have a short to earth.
Thanks for the reply as usual, very helpful. Not sure what a 'short to earth' is though...

Paulprior

864 posts

105 months

Tuesday 28th February 2017
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A short to earth means that the resistance between the live feed to the motor has a short circuit to earth, or chassis, or battery negative (they all mean the same, just different terminology) i.e. very low resistance, either because of a cable fault or a burnt out motor, you can test this by measuring across the pins that supply the motor, best to do it on the connector where it connects to the control board, if there is a problem you could then check again at the plug behind the carpet in the outer side of the passenger footwell, unfortunately I can't help with what pins do what as I have an earlier and very different system.
Paul

Paulprior

864 posts

105 months

Tuesday 28th February 2017
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And my motor is completely kaput, but not bothered about fixing it yet as I never intend to use it, but unfortunately I can't tell you what the motor resistance should be.

caduceus

Original Poster:

6,071 posts

266 months

Wednesday 1st March 2017
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Thanks again for the info Paul. Will give that a try.

Steve_D

13,746 posts

258 months

Wednesday 1st March 2017
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I've had a quick look back through the posts but cant see anywhere you confirming that blower motor and all the wires to it are working.

To do this you need the fan plugged in at the footwell, the ignition switched on, all the fuses in place and the connector unplugged from the module. Then short to earth pin B1 (Yellow wire) of the module connector.
If the fan works then you know the problem is in the module or its positive and negative supplies.

Steve

caduceus

Original Poster:

6,071 posts

266 months

Thursday 2nd March 2017
quotequote all
Steve_D said:
I've had a quick look back through the posts but cant see anywhere you confirming that blower motor and all the wires to it are working.
caduceus said:
Thanks Steve. I tested the connections with the current setup and nothing. So then I removed the 12 amp (glass) fuse and tried again and the motor whirred into life!
Steve_D said:
To do this you need the fan plugged in at the footwell, the ignition switched on, all the fuses in place and the connector unplugged from the module. Then short to earth pin B1 (Yellow wire) of the module connector.
If the fan works then you know the problem is in the module or its positive and negative supplies.
That's very helpful. thanks Steve. Didn't have time to bugger about with the car today, but will hopefully give this all a try out tomorrow.
So connect the yellow wire to an earth somewhere...? Sorry for being an electrospastic.

Steve_D

13,746 posts

258 months

Thursday 2nd March 2017
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caduceus said:
......So connect the yellow wire to an earth somewhere...? Sorry for being an electrospastic.
Yes, If you do it at that module connector you will prove that everything after the module is working.
You could then try connecting it to pin A1&A2 (Black wire) on the same connector which will also prove that the module earth is sound.

Steve

caduceus

Original Poster:

6,071 posts

266 months

Saturday 4th March 2017
quotequote all
Ok, I just tried the yellow wire port that is in the plug that goes to the module, to earth, and the blower worked! smile

So I guess it must be the fuse in the module. I have ordered a couple of 500 milliamp fast blow fuses for the PCB this week. They should be with me today. So just the delicate job of soldering a new one on top of the old to see if it all works.

I didn't bother with the B1 to B2 Steve, because I wasn't sure if you meant loop/connect them together, or each one separately to the yellow, or each one separately to earth wobble

Steve_D

13,746 posts

258 months

Saturday 4th March 2017
quotequote all
caduceus said:
Ok, I just tried the yellow wire port that is in the plug that goes to the module, to earth, and the blower worked! smile

So I guess it must be the fuse in the module. I have ordered a couple of 500 milliamp fast blow fuses for the PCB this week. They should be with me today. So just the delicate job of soldering a new one on top of the old to see if it all works.

I didn't bother with the B1 to B2 Steve, because I wasn't sure if you meant loop/connect them together, or each one separately to the yellow, or each one separately to earth wobble
Progress anyway.
Both B1 & B 2 should be black wires going to earth so try Loop/connect the yellow to each of them in turn.
Now you know yellow/fan works this will prove that B1 & B2 are valid earths.

Steve

Edited by Steve_D on Saturday 4th March 21:33

caduceus

Original Poster:

6,071 posts

266 months

Saturday 4th March 2017
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Excellent. Thanks Steve. Most helpful.

Shiersy

17 posts

104 months

Friday 14th April 2017
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Just wondering how you got on with your fix , I've just suffered similar , could smell electrical burning then the fan stopped. I followed the helpful info on this and other threads and found the connector was well and truly burnt, so much so I couldn't get the connector off so had to bypass it in situ

These pictures might help others withbthe problem in future ...

Burnt out ...


Bypass , though I did tidy it up and insulate it better after this photo ....


Dave

caduceus

Original Poster:

6,071 posts

266 months

Saturday 15th April 2017
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Sorry, not been on here for a while.

Anyway, it works! bounce
It was the fuse on the PCB that was gone. Soldered a new one in and all good now.

Many many thanks to SteveD, Phil, Pink Floyd and everyone who contributed. I could not have fixed this without your help. Much appreciated gentlemen thumbup


Steve_D

13,746 posts

258 months

Saturday 15th April 2017
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Good to know it is fixed and one to remember as this may come up again.

Steve

Robert Lees

550 posts

141 months

Thursday 20th July 2017
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Bump!

Mine has the same issue, will check out the ideas from this thread. I assume it is the unit as power entering the unit is 12v and slightly less coming out.

Will order a fuse and been told potentially the little IC unit is also a culprit.

PH to the rescue once again!