Chimaera Project

[lancepar]

As I didn't get a reply to my last meassage I assumed I needed 18mm dia blanking plugs for the lambda sensor holes.
Wrong they are too big, can someone tell me the correct dia, I don't have the sensors to measure and the I/d of the holes is about 12mm.
Cheers

[QBee]

I know a man who will know - he's about to remove my lambdas, blank off the holes, and insert a single wide band lambda well downstream. I can ask him, and my spare parts will be available as soon as they are removed.

[lancepar]

OK Anthony,

But I just need the size, I dont need the sensors as I have a wide band one waiting to be installed in the boss I have, down stream in the pipe past the "Y" piece, when I get to the refitting the exhaust system that is..

I now think the original threads are M12 x 1.25p.

Lance

Edited by lancepar on Friday 28th April 18:05

[QBee]

I will ask him

[CanoeSniffer]

Hi Lance, was good to chat to you today at Central.

Keep the thread updated! It's an awesome project and a great read, good luck getting her finished

[lancepar]

Cheers Mike,
Yes........ likewise.
It was good to look over your car, I learnt a lot and I was tempted to suggest a swap for a Carby, but resisted.
Now I've got mine up in the air I can concentrate on finishing the fuel lines and getting things moving.
Hope you had a good trip home.
Lance

[lancepar]

I have a question but first a photo of the edging around the heat reflective mats. Putting this on was suggested by the PO who put the sheeting on double thickness. Finishes it off a treat I think. He also intended all the engine compartment to be black but I'm going to paint the tops of the inner wings green and in front of the rad' to match the cars body colour. Wasn't this how they were standard?



Regarding fuel injection.........I've almost finished installing the fuel lines, long story but PO made a smashing job of plumbing in solid lines before putting the body on only to find he got it wrong in places and had to pull them out, hense me re-doing it in copper pipe but once I started, I quickly realized doing it in flexible hose was the way to go especially with the body in place.

Now i want to do some testing for leaks, so if I put a fuel supply to the inlet of the pump (this is not connected to the tank yet) and 12v to the pump will fuel run around the fuel rail etc and then issue from the return hose (not connected yet to tank) or will the pressure sensor prevent its flow from the f-rail?

Did you guess I'm a Carby man?

[Engineer1949]

fuel will pass once up to pressure.
dont know if you have seen them but i have done two body of rebuilds which are on here one fairly recently one about four years ago titled johns chimaera rebuild lots of pics so may well help.


john

[lancepar]

Thanks John,

We have talked in the past regarding fuel line routes etc, but I've only just got round to doing it.

Taking my time.

I'll get it finished one day.

Lance

[lancepar]

Swirl pot fixings.

In the bag of new stanless fixings (4 bolts, 4 nyloc nuts and 8 plain washers) that came with the car there were four used fibre washers. I can't see any reason for using these when attaching the swirl pot to the chassis, does anybody know different and if so where should they be fitted, between the pot and the chassis maybe?

Cheers

[lancepar]

Swirl Pot.

PO says this was the one he took off the car, but it's got a curved pipe, Chimaeras I've compaired it with have a straight pipe to the hose on the engine. Maybe it has been replaced back in time. Anybody identify it?

[lancepar]

Must be correct, found a photo of one the same.
The reason I queried it was because when the hose is on it doesn't look right, the hose looks distorted.

[lancepar]

Pads between body and chassis.

This has been discussed before but before my bolts in the floor are done up I've noticed that the front four points have a gap between the body and the chassis plate all the others are flush.

As I didn't take it apart I checked the bible and found this.



So question is..........what material have those who chose to fit pads gone for........hard rubber, polyurethane or what?
The gap to fill is about 3mm.

Cheers

[lancepar]

Fuel Tank Refitting

Ist things first.
I have assumed that apart from over the wheel arches in the boot, there is no underlay just carpet glued to the GRP?

So from the box of carpet I worked out where all the various pieces of grey supposed to go, the one piece missing is the big piece from the floor centre which the PO has used to cover the base of one of his modifications.

The pieces of carpet that need to go in before the tank have been fitted.



Now the questions.

There is no evidence that the tank had anything between it and the bulkhead, is this the case, I've checked photos and it would seem so? The base of the tank is seated on a small thin rectangular pad.
With the tank in place the strap feet don't make contact with the GRP on the bulkhead or boot floor and unless tilted slightly forward at the top the filler tube and the neck of the tank don't line up. Also tilted forward like this the recess in the tank on the drivers side can be heard fouling the head of the rear body to chassis mounting fixing.



Any body had their tank out and in that is able to comment on my dilemma, please do.

[lancepar]

Nobody?

A link to a thread would help.

[BIG DUNC]

I don't know if a Chim is the same as a Griff in this respect, but on my Griff....

The tank was hard against the bulkhead. The straps only just reached, i.e. at first I thought there was something wrong as the bolt holes in the straps didn't line up, but actually I just didn't have the tank quite in the right place.

After the tank is fitted, the carpet is glued to the tank and the boot floor (& the large fuel pipe.

[lancepar]

I think on the Griff' the connecting pipe to the filler neck is formed to a kinked shape and not straight as on the Chim', that's about the only difference, so aligning the two is not so much of a problem. If I push my tank up against the bulkhead the filler pipe is not aligned and the fouling of the chassis fixing in the tank dimple.

So on your car the the bottom edge of the tank nearest the rear of the car is showing a small gap between it and the boot floor?

I'll get back to this issue after the weekend, so thanks for posting.

Lance

[QBee]

lancepar said:

I think on the Griff' the connecting pipe to the filler neck is formed to a kinked shape and not straight as on the Chim', that's about the only difference, so aligning the two is not so much of a problem. If I push my tank up against the bulkhead the filler pipe is not aligned and the fouling of the chassis fixing in the tank dimple.

So on your car the the bottom edge of the tank nearest the rear of the car is showing a small gap between it and the boot floor?

I'll get back to this issue after the weekend, so thanks for posting.

Lance

On my Chimaera, there is a gap under the tank that you can get your fingers in flat, as well as lose anything small that drops out of your tool bag

[Steve_D]

lancepar said:

Fuel Tank Refitting

Ist things first.
I have assumed that apart from over the wheel arches in the boot, there is no underlay just carpet glued to the GRP?

So from the box of carpet I worked out where all the various pieces of grey supposed to go, the one piece missing is the big piece from the floor centre which the PO has used to cover the base of one of his modifications.

The pieces of carpet that need to go in before the tank have been fitted.



Now the questions.

There is no evidence that the tank had anything between it and the bulkhead, is this the case, I've checked photos and it would seem so? The base of the tank is seated on a small thin rectangular pad.
With the tank in place the strap feet don't make contact with the GRP on the bulkhead or boot floor and unless tilted slightly forward at the top the filler tube and the neck of the tank don't line up. Also tilted forward like this the recess in the tank on the drivers side can be heard fouling the head of the rear body to chassis mounting fixing.



Any body had their tank out and in that is able to comment on my dilemma, please do.

No carpet underlay apart from some very thin foam on some tanks so the profile (bump) of the strap does not show.
Small pads for the tank to sit on.
Upper chassis mounting bolts should be Hex socket button head bolts. anything larger will foul and damage the tank. the factory als put a film of PU sealand over the heads as well and likely left that to cure befor tank fitting as there is no evidence of sealant on tanks when we take them out.
Straps are normally pretty tight and don't seem to want to reach but they will with a little wriggling of the tank. They need to be tight to do their job.

Steve

[lancepar]

Thanks for the replies all helpful.

I'm going to replace the top body to chassis fixings.

In the bag of boot carpet pieces I have these two bits, they look like they have been wrapped round something and also have signs they
have had something resting on them.

Any Ideas where they come from originally?





Cheers